water comming in cover holes

[waskwie wabbit]

was checking out my new stilleto and when tipping it up noticed,[ motor straight up] water comming out the 2 holes were the cowling goes into, any body else notice this, should this happen, just trying to figure out how to stop this, thanks

[colormegone]

Yup...........mine did that too and I put some silicone in the holes and let it tack up..
then I put the cowl back on and let the silicone cure. Stopped the leak. So far so good but it doesn't see the water much.. These boats look good but they have some issues.

[ron1950]

do what colormegone said....thats the only way to make it water tight

[waskwie wabbit]

yah thanks good idea, ill try that. have you had more issues.

[ron1950]

i had a few drops of water all the time in the battery comp for some reason but never a prob...seems i was always submarining it......good luck with it

[Darin Jordan]

I've been fighting mine as well, but am finding that the setup is pretty sensitive and prop makes a HUGE difference. Blade shape as well.

By changing props, mine went from hooking 2/3rd of the way through the turn, to flat tracking through that same portion of the turn, so obviously lift at the prop has some affect.

Thus far, the drivable setup seems to be having the lower unit adjusted so that it's neutral, and the centerline of the stub is just at, or slightly above the sponson bottoms. Batteries are all the way at the back (ESC platform removed). I'll have to measure the exact balance point to give you a measurement.

It's a bit of a touchy boat to drive, but I think part of that could be that it's a little on the heavy side for the 1800KV motor it comes with. Going Higher KV might work, but you'll lose the torque to carry the weight.

I am thinking, ultimately, that it might be a hull that's just better suited for a 1515 1Y or something with a bunch more power. Had it come in at closer to 6lbs or so, RTR, the stock power would likely work much better.

I've had it on a setup board and compared it side-by-side to a Lynx, VS-1, etc. and I don't see any real issues with the geometry. Like I mentioned, I think getting it to work is a matter of finding the sweet spot, and may ultimately involve putting more power in it to carry the extra weight. It's good for a Production boat, but it IS a PRODUCTION boat... Getting the Chinese manufacturers to build stong, yet light, is still a bit of a struggle.

[colormegone]

I have my boat at 6.5 lbs and not sure if that is real heavy compared to others or not.
No one at the pond seems to know how much their boats weight in at so I don't have anything to compare it to. I also have my esc plate removed and can put the battery all the way back if needed but have not found a good balance for this boat and it is a handfull to drive (for me anyways). I haven't really messed with this boat much but I do get lots of comments on how nice it looks .... I'm running my UL1 motor a bit positve with the middle of the shaft even with the sponsons. I have a modded 42x55 for a prop. I'll be keeping my eyes peeled to see what you come up with. Maybe I'll have to get a lower KV motor to try.

[waskwie wabbit]

seems everybody having same issues, i have tried a few props,seems 42/55 works best for me, got motor set like darin says, seems to work best,not hooking as much ,had to go with way less steering input,works good now,thinging about tryind stock mg motor in it,maybe 6s,5s anybody tried that yet,ideas on props to try, with that set up thanks.

[Darin Jordan]

I'm actually thinking about borrowing an idea from cybercrxt and adding another layer to the ride-pad to provide a little bit narrower ride surface at speed... Seems to be working on his boats. But, then, they were designed around the idea...

Might be worth trying...

I think that the closer you get a tunnel to be an "optimum" performer and to run on the ragged edge, the more sensitive it becomes to subtle tuning adjustments and prop tweaks. Just going to take a lot of fiddling to get it right. No one said that this was a "beginner's boat", Maybe I should have backed off the geometry some to make it easier to tune/drive... kind of like the 28" WoodStuff is... that boat is SIMPLE to drive, just doesn't hook up as well in the turns...

[CHIEFY_44]

i use prather 220 s/b/l batteries level with esc tray motor mount is all the way down with some positive on the prop angle runs great like that, batteries are 5000mha 4c1p nano techs

[Darin Jordan]

i use prather 220 s/b/l batteries level with esc tray motor mount is all the way down with some positive on the prop angle runs great like that, batteries are 5000mha 4c1p nano techs

See, that is another example of prop choice likely making the difference...

The ABC series of props have a different blade shape than the Prather series... The Prather 215 is basically what comes stock on the boat, and it drives with that all day long. The 220 is similar in shape. Again, the boat drives fine with them.

I found the same thing on mine. If I go to a more rounded tip blade, it tends to do stupid things.

Going to play with that theory a little more in the coming weeks.