Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 31 to 60 of 81

Thread: Delta Force 35"

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    597

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Make-a-Wake View Post
    Man.......that sucks..............thank goodness for flotation! It all comes with the territory as im sure you are aware. Better luck on your next run.
    yeah man, well fingers crossed my gear comes back to life! happen to know a "safe" way to test the esc and eagle tree?? Yes floatation is an absolute must, i use pipe insulation and it works better than pool noodle imo.

    the one lesson i really learned here though is HATCH LOCKS are going on all my boats from now on!!

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    1,641

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 6sHyper View Post
    the one lesson i really learned here though is HATCH LOCKS are going on all my boats from now on!!

    I learned that the hard way also so dont feel bad....That suck that your getting a bunch of crap about running your rigs, kinda makes the hobby less motivating. Sounds like my old neighboor's gripeing about my nitro trucks were to loud!
    ..Eagles may soar in the clouds, but weasels never get sucked into jet engines..56" P.I. Fountain /37"Genesis Cat.-1717/T-180/33" DF Copy-1717/T-180

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    US
    Posts
    5,557

    Default

    After a nasty crash in my Pursuit which left everything hanging by the cooling tube.............motor, ESC etc......... I made my own hatch locks from bolts/nuts layin around. Never had a problem since and i've flipped her a bunch.

    First pic is after the crash, the rest of the hatch locks install
    Attached Images Attached Images
    NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    597

    Default

    Didn't even think of that! great idea, i might just one up ya though and use wing nuts!!

    Good news! i plugged the eagle tree in to my computer and pulled the run out of it! I think its gonna be ok! I only pulled a max amp reaidng of 184
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    597

    Default

    Well i guess i can count my lucky stars because after drying them out the servo, ESC, rx, and Eagletree ALL seam to be working still!!! Thank God.............Just need a new hatch!! not to bad.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    vi
    Posts
    1,092

    Default

    I sad to read about your crash, I hope everything dries out for you ok. Here's a few pic's of how I did my locks on the pirate, I hope they help give you few ideas. good luck!!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #37
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    AB
    Posts
    1,465

    Default

    That is a hell-of-a good idea.................................
    Necessity is the mother of invention.............

    Youtube Video's http://www.youtube.com/user/Titanis2000

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    3,663

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 6sHyper View Post
    Well i guess i can count my lucky stars because after drying them out the servo, ESC, rx, and Eagletree ALL seam to be working still!!! Thank God.............Just need a new hatch!! not to bad.
    Make sure you spray them with corrosion x before using them again to displace any water that might be hiding in there. Its definitely worth it regardless of the drying process.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    3,663

    Default

    Looking at the pics now I think the steering rod was a lot of your problem. That bend that it has coming off the servo will no doubt flex and bend more under load. You might want to use a longer servo arm or something so you can get that straight. A bending steering linkage will make for some crazy handling charecteristics. It sounds like you stinger may not have been at very as well. The trim tabs should really only come into play to stop chine walk, they aren't needed to keep the boat from blowing over. The turn fins should just dig in in the corners and keep the hull from washing out when turning.

    Sorry the maiden didn tgo well. That really sucks!

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Make-a-Wake View Post
    After a nasty crash in my Pursuit which left everything hanging by the cooling tube.............motor, ESC etc......... I made my own hatch locks from bolts/nuts layin around. Never had a problem since and i've flipped her a bunch.

    First pic is after the crash, the rest of the hatch locks install
    I just ordered a pursuit, this great info for me. How does the hull hold up after these crashes? Do I need to do any reinforcing?

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    597

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by keithbradley View Post
    Looking at the pics now I think the steering rod was a lot of your problem. That bend that it has coming off the servo will no doubt flex and bend more under load. You might want to use a longer servo arm or something so you can get that straight. A bending steering linkage will make for some crazy handling charecteristics. It sounds like you stinger may not have been at very as well. The trim tabs should really only come into play to stop chine walk, they aren't needed to keep the boat from blowing over. The turn fins should just dig in in the corners and keep the hull from washing out when turning.

    Sorry the maiden didn tgo well. That really sucks!
    The steering rod is pretty thick stock it doesn't bend very easily, i'll attach a pic of why it has that bend in it, i will straighten it out a bit though. It seemed more like the boat was really light in the bow she was definately china walking, she handled the turns great. As for the stinger what is a good positioning to start at? i figured parralel to the hull like the tabs, but after looking closer it looks like i had the stinger pointed down a bit which would casue the bow to rise, so maybe i need to bring it up? pics attached tell me what you think Keith. Also I dont have any corrosion X, do you know if theres anyithing else like it?? possibly available at Home Depot or something local?? Thanks

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    597

    Default

    Heres some pics, should i take the motor apart too?? I heard the Brushless motors were ok to get a bit wet? Looks like a fairly water tight casing.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    fc
    Posts
    1

    Default

    hi
    i am a new member..stefano from italy..where can i buy a motor mount for mamba monster motor as yours ?
    thanks much

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    312

    Default

    Actually wouldn't the stinger going down like that cause the bow to go down more?
    I'm married with children, you can't scare me!

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    597

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rc2266 View Post
    Actually wouldn't the stinger going down like that cause the bow to go down more?
    ah yes i think your right my mistake. i think i need do some trim tab adjustments and possibly move my COG more forward.

  16. #46
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    US
    Posts
    5,557

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dragboatdad View Post
    I just ordered a pursuit, this great info for me. How does the hull hold up after these crashes? Do I need to do any reinforcing?
    Hi Drag, the Pursuit is a great boat for the $$. You need to really give it a "once over" and tighten all nuts....................add epoxy to mounts, tube supports.........etc. I call it my "basher".............we bump 'em like Nascar's on our course. Good stuff!
    NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=

  17. #47
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    597

    Default

    Well still haven't found a replacement hatch, I made a temporary hatch out of some fiberglass so at least i can run the boat and try and get it all dialed in. Do most of you guys just run 2 hatch locks at the back or all 4 corners???

    Heres how i quickly and with limited equipment fabbed up a plain jane flat hatch.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  18. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    597

    Default

    I used a piece of hardwood to lay the fiberglass on, since the one side was so smooth the glass peeled right off when it was 3/4 cured. after that i took it to work and skimmed it with putty and primed and painted it. Now i was thinking of running 4 locks (all 4 corners) and getting some foam tape to go around the hull so the hatch seals without taping it.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  19. #49
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    vi
    Posts
    1,092

    Default

    well done, now thats using your noodle

  20. #50
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    3,663

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 6sHyper View Post
    .
    I would start with the strut at zero and set your COG so it rides well. Once you get it set so it has a good attitude, screw the trim tabs down bit by bit to eliminate the chine walk. You dont want them down any further than they have to be.

  21. #51
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    597

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by keithbradley View Post
    Make sure you spray them with corrosion x before using them again to displace any water that might be hiding in there. Its definitely worth it regardless of the drying process.
    I couldn't find any corrosion x or equivalent locally so i used a method that alot of friends of mine have done with there cellphones and took the esc and the eagle tree and put them inside a bag of oats!! with the shrink wrap off of course, apparently the oats draw the moisture out i left them in there for 3 days, took them out and there bone dry.

  22. #52
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    597

    Default

    Well I took it out for the 2nd rip today, went to a smaller lake so i would have an easy rescue foreseeing something was probably going to happen. Of course it did and once again another old grumpy fart came down and tried to tell me my boat was "not permitted" on the lake. There are NO signs that say anything against it, its not gas, so i told him he could go pound sand! Tired of getting cursed out by old grumps when i'm doing absolutely no harm, i feel i'm very respectful i never run when theres ducks around and certainly no swimmers or even fisherman on shore for that matter. Boat seemed like it was plaining a bit better although didn't seem as fast as i expect it to be? Definatley runson the rear!! hardly any hull in the water when i'm on the throttle, i remember my df33 plained lower in the front an dthat boat most definately handled better than this one by a mile, I cant turn at full throttle with this 35, maybe my turn fins need to be angle down more??

  23. #53
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    AB
    Posts
    1,465

    Default

    To bad you didn't get a video , got the same speech here from a couple of old birds ( hens...LOL ) . They asked me if I figured the ducks minded if I ran the boat....my responce was that the ducks are more than welcome to watch also......
    Necessity is the mother of invention.............

    Youtube Video's http://www.youtube.com/user/Titanis2000

  24. #54
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    597

    Default

    uploading video at the moment actually, will be up shortly, didn't get the wipeout on camera though............

  25. #55
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    597

  26. #56
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    597

    Default

    So i'm thinking of trying an x447/3, any thoughts?

  27. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    OH
    Posts
    1,641

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 6sHyper View Post
    So i'm thinking of trying an x447/3, any thoughts?
    Your esc should be able to handel the extra load from the third blade....Have you tryed a X645...Thats what I was running in my 33" mono and still had room to prop up.....
    ..Eagles may soar in the clouds, but weasels never get sucked into jet engines..56" P.I. Fountain /37"Genesis Cat.-1717/T-180/33" DF Copy-1717/T-180

  28. #58
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    597

    Default

    Yep tried the x645, best i got was 54mph.

    I just got back from the lake, i had a very succesful run. I had the Eagletree hooked up the whole time and i did 5 passes then brought it in and checked temps, amps, and speed, then kept switching props. I used x645,x447/3,x448,x646,x646/3, and in that order. The weird thing was the x447/3 was the slowest, but the x646/3 even running on basically pooched batts was the fastest at 57.8mph and that was with 8000mah used according to my eagletree. I will start with fresh batts and the x646/3 next day out.

    I made some hardware adjustments and all the props acted differently, the x447/3 the boat ran smooth as silk, but was way slower, then with the x645,x646 and x646/3 it was fast and loose! It rides right on the last 3 inches of the hull and wobbles side to side and does not like any chop, my df33 handled way better which makes me think i definately still need to make some adjustments. i did move my cog forward to around 33% and i lowered my trim tabs to parrallel with hull bottom and the stinger is at 0*. I think i will lower the tabs a bit and see what that does.

    Heres the Eagletree graph, i'm starting to get the hang od it now, you can see the seperation between each prop and the mah usage is the mint green line, pretty cool, i think the x646/3 should break 60 next run out! I am going to try a prather s235 as well.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  29. #59
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    US
    Posts
    5,557

    Default

    A prather 235 is a big step up in prop................tried an x548?
    NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=

  30. #60
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    BC
    Posts
    597

    Default

    no dont have an x548. I think an x450 or 452 would be good though. I know the s235 is a huge jump, but its the only bigger prop i have and temps are cool and amps are well below what my esc is capable of handling so i figure why not give it a shot and see? a quick pass and check the amps and i'll know right away if i can get away with it.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •