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Thread: Turnigy 180 cooling upgrade

  1. #31
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    Yep correct

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Megabiker98 View Post
    This and the seaking esc is the same thing correct???
    Yuppers.
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  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by viper1 View Post
    Thanks Proper,

    That's just "painted on" using the photo before it.
    But with the tygon fuel tubing I use for cooling, reality would not be that far of I guess. but it probably will naturally sit in a U-shape instead of 2- 90 deg. bends
    In fact you got me curious, so here is the real life test.
    I like the tygon tubing for cooling, it's tough, larger inner diameter, and as you can see, it goes even past 90 deg and is still open. (I guess your interest comes from sqeezing it in a narrow hull?)

  4. #34
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    I've heard some complaints about the lvc? I don't like to turn it off because I don't have a timer. However I do plan on getting a flysky gt3b, does that have a timer on it???

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Megabiker98 View Post
    I've heard some complaints about the lvc? I don't like to turn it off because I don't have a timer. However I do plan on getting a flysky gt3b, does that have a timer on it???
    Never had any problems with LVC, between the seaking and turnigy this must be the most used boat esc (at least in this Amp range). There's a reason for it's success.


    No mention of a timer in the gt3b manual, which I just checked for you
    I'm using a HK-310 radio, timer can be coupled to trigger, I like it and cheap. Has backlight now and a 'blingy' steering wheel.
    All for under $50

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by viper1 View Post
    In fact you got me curious, so here is the real life test.
    I like the tygon tubing for cooling, it's tough, larger inner diameter, and as you can see, it goes even past 90 deg and is still open. (I guess your interest comes from sqeezing it in a narrow hull?)
    The Tygon looks like it's worth a try. Usually when I encounter close quarters I'll do the 90 degree mod but it's a pain to get the straight barbs out, at least when I first started to do it. Here's another option : Autobahn88 tubing :

    DSC04117.JPG
    2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
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  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Megabiker98 View Post
    I've heard some complaints about the lvc? I don't like to turn it off because I don't have a timer. However I do plan on getting a flysky gt3b, does that have a timer on it???
    These ESC's are notorious for premature LVC cutoff. This is an issue frequently discussed here. Apparently the circuit monitors fairly instantaneous voltage downspikes (which occur frequently) as opposed to average voltage. With premium batteries this is less of an issue, but most everybody I know in racing circles disarms the LVC and has test/tuned to run a 6-lap race without batteries getting into the danger zone. I have been using a GT3B for almost two years and really like it 'tho it has no timer. Consequently, during testing I use my trusty PorkMaster 2000 run timer :

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvQbEnwjNSU
    2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
    2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
    '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by properchopper View Post
    These ESC's are notorious for premature LVC cutoff. Apparently the circuit monitors fairly instantaneous voltage downspikes (which occur frequently) as opposed to average voltage. With premium batteries this is less of an issue, but most everybody I know in racing circles disarms the LVC and has test/tuned to run a 6-lap race without batteries getting into the danger zone. I have been using a GT3B for almost two years and really like it 'tho it has no timer. Consequently, during testing I use my trusty PorkMaster 2000 run timer :

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvQbEnwjNSU
    what do u mean by PREMIUM batteries??? I have 2 basically BRAND new gens ace 40c 5,000 mah 2s will those be affected??

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Megabiker98 View Post
    what do u mean by PREMIUM batteries??? I have 2 basically BRAND new gens ace 40c 5,000 mah 2s will those be affected??
    The better batteries (read : more expensive) will hold their voltage under load better than sport packs like GensAce. I had those exact GensAces in a boat I was testing on spec power and while I was walking back to my pit table there were two LOUD POPS from inside the boat. Both packs (and they weren't run very hard) burst the hard pack and split open. My battery of choice, now that I've discovered them, is Dinogy. (b-back in a few hours if more conversation needed)
    2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
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  10. #40
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    But racing boats, ur wide open more often than not, correct? I would just be bashing them in a way, with short burst runs!

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by properchopper View Post
    These ESC's are notorious for premature LVC cutoff. This is an issue frequently discussed here. Apparently the circuit monitors fairly instantaneous voltage downspikes (which occur frequently) as opposed to average voltage. With premium batteries this is less of an issue, but most everybody I know in racing circles disarms the LVC and has test/tuned to run a 6-lap race without batteries getting into the danger zone.
    Would you mind pointing me to some of these frequently discussed issues proper? First time I hear this. unless there are inferior batteries or something into play.
    I've had premature LVC, yes. But this was due to too big a prop, running to deep, high I.R. batteries or a combination of those.
    Could have blamed it on the ESC, but really, that's a setup issue.

    EDIT: Also make sure you set the manual cell count, as recommended in the manual.

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by viper1 View Post
    Would you mind pointing me to some of these frequently discussed issues proper? First time I hear this. unless there are inferior batteries or something into play.
    I've had premature LVC, yes. But this was due to too big a prop, running to deep, high I.R. batteries or a combination of those.
    Could have blamed it on the ESC, but really, that's a setup issue.

    EDIT: Also make sure you set the manual cell count, as recommended in the manual.
    There are dozens of threads in the last year or so pointing out the flawed performance of the T-180 (and its varients) LVC

    Here's a couple (there many more, take my word for it - or start a new thread and watch the response)

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...vc+seaking+180

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...voltage+cutoff

    To get around the problem you can buy outboard add-on LVC's for not much $$ or know your MAH consumption and time your runs.
    2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
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  13. #43
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    I've been looking for an add on lvc, I can't seem to find them? Do any websites carry them?

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Megabiker98 View Post
    I've been looking for an add on lvc, I can't seem to find them? Do any websites carry them?
    You may of heard of this site

    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...hld-32&cat=136
    2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
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  15. #45
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    See I thought it would be more of a battery accesory!!! Lol

  16. #46
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    Another way of dealing with the situation : (I'll use round numbers to make the math easy to understand)

    Fully charge your packs

    Run WFO for exactly one minute, bring boat in

    Charge packs to full, note how many mah it took - your charger should show this number

    If (for example) you used 1000mah, you use 1000mah/minute.

    If you want to use 50% of your 5000 mah battery (a safe number), run a 5000 mah pack for 2 1/2 minutes [ 2 1/2 X 1000 = 2500mah] using your watch (or Porkmaster 20000-like device)

    Don't get any easier than this
    2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
    2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
    '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

  17. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by properchopper View Post
    There are dozens of threads in the last year or so pointing out the flawed performance of the T-180 (and its varients) LVC

    Here's a couple (there many more, take my word for it - or start a new thread and watch the response)

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...vc+seaking+180

    https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...voltage+cutoff
    The first link is not about the 180A , and in both threads there is the same individual screaming that this is a 'common' problem.

    Maybe it is and you could be right, but I'm not convinced yet.
    I did a search for more threads on the subject but thusfar inconclusive.
    Having said that, If you search for the in-build BEC having problems in this ESC, you will find an ocean of 'common issues'.
    When I bought my ESC, I ordered an external BEC as well...just in case.
    Guess what, I'm using it...but in one of my planes because the 180 never needed it, works flawless and yes, I am running 6s.
    Fact is however, this ESC has evolved a bit over time, and the BEC in this example has been improved.

    Could be done on the LVC as well?

    Could be a problem on older ESC's, or I am extremely lucky (for a change )

    Sorry for going off-topic

  18. #48
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    Whatever works you, go for it.
    2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
    2009/2010 NAMBA P-Sport Hydro Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder, '13 SCSTA P-Ltd Cat High Points
    '11 NAMBA [P-Ltd] : Mono, Offshore, OPC, Sport Hydro; '06 LSO, '12,'13,'14 P Ltd Cat /Mono

  19. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Megabiker98 View Post
    This and the seaking esc is the same thing correct???
    Yep.

  20. #50
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    @Yiper1

    did you restrict the water passage through central point the original journals ?.. or is the flow to new internal pathway a 'bypassed' affair ?
    W
    Wayne Schutte PhdCSE BaSE BaEE. Australian, & damn proud of it YOUTUBE
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  21. #51
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    I restricted it, but not fully, I glued a "restricting collar" in both orig channels.

  22. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by viper1 View Post
    I restricted it, but not fully, I glued a "restricting collar" in both orig channels.
    Good stuff.
    I used a helicoil thread repair insert as a flow reducer on either side of a similar mod...

    W
    Wayne Schutte PhdCSE BaSE BaEE. Australian, & damn proud of it YOUTUBE
    @ 36" H&M Maritmo twin1512/1800 6S1P 88mph @ 40" drag hydro#1 twin 5692 12S1P .....always for fun @

  23. #53
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    This is what you meant right?


  24. #54
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    maybe, difficult to show in 2D.
    try this ...

    fp.jpg
    Wayne Schutte PhdCSE BaSE BaEE. Australian, & damn proud of it YOUTUBE
    @ 36" H&M Maritmo twin1512/1800 6S1P 88mph @ 40" drag hydro#1 twin 5692 12S1P .....always for fun @

  25. #55
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    Yep like that. Did you do any pro/post temp measurements ? if so did it make a difference?
    I noticed that there are FET-banks on the bottom side of the circuit board as well, not cooled as well I would guess. But maybe these are for the reverse.

    Anyway, never heard of over-cooling damage, at least not in these applications

  26. #56
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    Hi

    Is this upgrade necessary?

    Do someone have some measurement before and after the upgrade?

  27. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by jsturess View Post
    Hi

    Is this upgrade necessary?
    Hard to say, Short answer: No.
    Long answer: It depends, I could imagine a setup 'on the edge' where it could make the difference between survival or not.
    But IMHO you should solve that problem differently, lighter prop or so. If you 'need' this mod I think you need to think about a different set-up.


    Quote Originally Posted by jsturess View Post

    Do someone have some measurement before and after the upgrade?
    Not yet, but I don't think this will make it run hotter

  28. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by viper1 View Post
    Hard to say, Short answer: No.
    Long answer: It depends, I could imagine a setup 'on the edge' where it could make the difference between survival or not.
    But IMHO you should solve that problem differently, lighter prop or so. If you 'need' this mod I think you need to think about a different set-up.




    Not yet, but I don't think this will make it run hotter

    But IMHO you should solve that problem differently, lighter prop or so. If you 'need' this mod I think you need to think about a different set-up.

    Yes,yes, yes. While it seems (my opinion only, I'm no thermodynamic engineer) that most ESC cooling designs are not close to optimal and the
    "T-180 cooling mod" is a relatively easy and obvious improvement, these upgrades and other methods may only provide marginal benefits. The at-risk components like FETs, stators and rotors are (likely) minimally affected by current cooling designs. While having some cooling is preferable to having none, pumping up the setup to gofaster and depending on cooling to stay in the safe zone is not good thinking.

    While not a controlled experiment, this happened last year : Stephen and I have the EXACT same P-Mono with the exception of my T-180 having the T-180 cooling mod. We raced all year and had no problems with ESC heat. The last race of the season the outside air temps climbed way up. On the last lap of a six-lap heat BOTH of our T-180's thermaled. We propped down one notch and they still thermaled, only a little later in the race. To reiterate : the best way to prevent excess component heat is to adjust your setup accordingly.
    2008 NAMBA P-Mono & P-Offshore Nat'l 2-Lap Record Holder; '15 P-Cat, P-Ltd Cat 2-Lap
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  29. #59
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    Hi T, listen everyone I am the Stephen Tony is talking about in his last post, what he has just said about our t 180's is correct, we have raced, tested and just messed around together at the lake since my p mono was built, by Tony, they are exactly the same apart from the esc mod, both have never had any trouble with heat. Motor, motor/esc connections, esc, caps and cells have always ran faultless always well within the safer temp range. They are both pretty quick and reliable.
    But as far as the esc having pre lvc problem I really do agree with tony, that they do have a problem, I also disable lvc and test so I can run 6-7 laps safely, another thing I do is disable the bec and run a separate rx pack, doing this helps take some strain off the esc as well as some heat, in my eyes every little helps.
    Socal Fe member, miss gieco castle 1515 1y t-180, blackjack29 stock,insane FE30 p sport castle 1515 1y t-180, insane FE30 p spec ul-1 motor t-120, insane 34"mono neu 1521 1.5d t-180

  30. #60
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    Does the Tygon tubing give enough flexibility?

    As to water cooling the t180. I personally use these esc's often, I have admittedly overheated them. But that was the setups fault and not fault of the esc. Heat is generated from inefficiencies, if its running so hot that you need extra cooling something else should be tried.

    As to the lvc. I've also experienced the lvc kicking in, when I thought it shouldn't. My personal experience really made me scratch my head. Because I've used this setup before and knew it was a good one. After "warming up" at home I figured it out. My batteries were in my truck bed for a few hours. I was running late fall, the outside temps in the 40-50 range or there abouts. So my packs were cold enough not to perform well. The next time I went out, I left them on my front seat and they worked great.
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