DF Sniper 45 T-Mono Build Target 100mph

OK, so with all the talk about Sniper speeds I figured its time to post a thread on shooting for the 100mph mono. I have been patiently waiting and researching all the threads and watching other monos run before I pulled the trigger on this project. First thanks to the guys who helped me placement of components and ideas: Anbjorn, Peter and Brian.

Here are the links to Peter's build: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ead.php?t=6901
and Anbjorn's build: http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hlight=anbjorn
The hardware list:

DF Sniper 45 w/5" rails reinforced with carbon on bottom and transom.
Flooded stuffing tube design running 1/4" cable
Lehner 3080 High Amp, fan & LQ cooled. Peter Zicha mount.
Schulze 40.303wk
Hyperion 45C 10s2P set-up
HiTech HS-7980 steering servo
Speedmaster rudder and 1/4" strut
OSE trim tabs and brackets

Prior to recieving the hull I talked to Peter Zicha and we came up with a combined Lehner 3080 and Schulze 40.303WK mount. As is customary he did a great job:





I copied the servo mount idea from Anbjorn which nicely mounted the servo on the right side stringer very close to the transom. Peter was kind enough to machine this for me as well:





After recieving the hull from Steve, I masked the transom in painters tape and using carpet tape I stuck all the hardware on the transom for layout.





Once all the transom hardware was laid out how I wanted, the holes were transfer punched and hardware test mounted loosely.

Cont'd

After the hardware holes were drillled, the entire transom and tub were carbon fiber reinforced. Due to the extreme forward motor mounting loaction the wood strigers were extended to allow the rear motor mount pick-up to have a place to screw down to. Carbon work turned out pretty decent.



Following the carbon reinforcement, I copied Brian's very nice flooded stuffing tube design I have seen on his smaller DF mono's. I found some scrap length 1" ID carbon tube cut it to length and with the stuffing tube, motor and strut in place I expoxied the tube in. Shortly thereafter I mounted steering servo on the right hand stringer.







Next steps will be to make a battery tray and strap system to hold the batteries down.

Here is a mock-up of how I expect the batteries will be laid out.



More to come...........

Nice!!
You beat me to it. Ref email sent some min. ago

Good job on laying the carbon fiber.
Did you manage to roll it all the way round to the hatch opening?

Anbjørn

Thanks Anbjorn,

The carbon wraps about 25mm beyond the deck seam, but not all the way up to the opening. I have a couple different ideas on how I want to reinforce the deck seam, but have not finished them in till i have everything else in place.

Tyler

Man you got one hell of a setup boss hog.

The weak spot in my gas Sniper is the deck where it meets the front of the hatch opening. In a high speed stuff the deck can flex in and sometimes allow the front of the hatch to colapse into the boat. I recommend you strengthen that area of the deck as well as the front lip of the hatch opening.

Thanks, will do.

Tyler

Jim's 80+ mph crash at Legg landed his Sniper on its deck, caving in the hatch. While the deck most probably flexed too, the hatch split open and let in most of the water. The hatch definitely needs more strength.


.

Good point Jay. I was warned the hatch needed reinforcing so I added a layer of FG cloth on the rear 2/3's of the hatch when I put the boat together. So far it's holding up but my "stuffs" are at less than 60 mph. A layer or two of CF may be in order for higher speeds.

This is a very nice build Tyler. Can you tell me a bit about the motor.............size, kv etc...........???

Looking forward to seeing it run!

The motors I can use are Lehner 3080's and 3060's. I have both 5 and 6 winds of each so there are some options.

The 3080/5 is a 1050kv motor
The 3080/6 is a 875kv Motor
The 3060/5 is a 14000kv motor
The 3060/6 is a 1167kv motor.

One nice design about the Lehner LK motors is that you can wind they as a Wye or Delta. The kv's listed above are all for the Delta wind.

You can check them out here: http://www.lehnermotoren.com/series30/

Tyler, are you going to bring some electric boats out to the race tomorrow? I will be bringing my P sport hydro and P mono. There going to run open electric with the open gas class but Gary said they will let our electric boats run in our own heat if there's enough boats. Hope you bring some.

Mark

I entered P mono, but I guess that class did not make it. I did not enter open, because I am running open offshore. And I don't have a p sport or p hydro.

Maybe I will bring the p mono just in case.

TG

Awesone start so far Tyler........................................

Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX

The motors I can use are Lehner 3080's and 3060's. I have both 5 and 6 winds of each so there are some options.

The 3080/5 is a 1050kv motor
The 3080/6 is a 875kv Motor
The 3060/5 is a 2100kv motor
The 3060/6 is a 1167kv motor.

One nice design about the Lehner LK motors is that you can wind they as a Wye or Delta. The kv's listed above are all for the Delta wind.

You can check them out here: http://www.lehnermotoren.com/series30/

Wow, just checked and the 3080 is 60mm x 120mm!!

Tyler where did get the Lehner 3080? what website sell them in us? i am looking for one.

Philip

I bought them directly from Lehner in Germany.

Got a little more work done this week. 2 part foam has been installed in the nose and in the sides. It came out OK, not as nice as I would have hoped, but the hull is rock solid now. Also installed the battery tray. It will have carbon cloth on both sides to support the 10S2P worth of batteries that will sit atop it. Right now its just the bottom that has carbon. All the hardware is mounted and bottom has been blue-printed.







Next step is to finish the battery trays with velcro on the floor and some velcro straps running side to side.

Looks awesome............can you tell me how a flooded tube works?

The boat looks tough, love it. I'm sorry for the newbie question dirtying up your thread but I'm wondering how the stuffing tube is supported, I get the idea of the flooded tube but I just can't see any support to hold the brass tube in place?

The idea behind the flooded stuffing tube is to allow vertical moving of the strut. If you just had the stuffing tube pass through the transom and it was a tight fit so it sealed the water then it would be impossible to allow for any strut adjustment. In nitro and gas boats we just make an oval hole in the back and leave it open for water to drain out. In the FE boats, we have to seal it, so we install a larger tube which the stuffing tube fits in. We epoxy the tube in the rear on the OD to seal the tube to the transom. In the front of the tube, we seal the stuffing tube to the ID of the big tube. Now we have a sealed tube, but with th extra length between where the stuffing tube is sealed and where we have the strut we have enough bend allowance in the stuffing tube to make strut adjustments. The stuffing tube is supported near the motor by the expoxy and its supported at the rear by the strut.

Hopefully that all makes sense.

Yep.....thanks!

Originally Posted by Make-a-Wake

Looks awesome............can you tell me how a flooded tube works?

I was wondering about that , thanks for asking.....................

Tyler so thats what green grass looks like , Jeez we are frozen here to the earths core and its been so long..............

Peter,

It was a nice day here in the 60's, great to be out working in the garage. However Sunday I head back to Detroit for more sleet and snow :-(

TG

Originally Posted by RaceMechaniX

The idea behind the flooded stuffing tube is to allow vertical moving of the strut. If you just had the stuffing tube pass through the transom and it was a tight fit so it sealed the water then it would be impossible to allow for any strut adjustment. In nitro and gas boats we just make an oval hole in the back and leave it open for water to drain out. In the FE boats, we have to seal it, so we install a larger tube which the stuffing tube fits in. We epoxy the tube in the rear on the OD to seal the tube to the transom. In the front of the tube, we seal the stuffing tube to the ID of the big tube. Now we have a sealed tube, but with th extra length between where the stuffing tube is sealed and where we have the strut we have enough bend allowance in the stuffing tube to make strut adjustments. The stuffing tube is supported near the motor by the expoxy and its supported at the rear by the strut.

Hopefully that all makes sense.

thanks mate, I like that idea and may use it one day, I appreciate you going through it like that.

Thanks for the catching that Peter, I'll fix the original post. I thought I almost had the whole chart memorized.

TG

Not a problem Tyler

Yes I have looked the chart lots also pondering , for anyone else that is curious on whats available from Lehner here is a PDF attachment that lists all the motors , winds and relative KV's

Good to see your progress.
I will be cheering for your 100mph goal
Anbjørn

A little more work done today. Last night I added carbon to the top of the battery tray. The U shaped cutout will allow me to mount a 11/32" collar with an oil fitting to clamp the tubes together and lube the flex shaft in between runs.



This morning I blueprinted the bottom using 400 grit and lots of water. The hull right out of the mold was very flat and straight, it did not take much gelcoat removal to flatten of the last 1/3 of the V.



This afternoon I went down to West Marine and found these Stainless webbing tie downs. They are a little bulky, but I am sure they will hold up. I made some pedestals to mount them on out of some basswood. T-nuts were counterbored and pressed in from the bottom. Prior to epoxying them in place I use a small dot of tape to cover the thread hole so eposy does not fill the threaded section. The bottom and one side of the pedestal match the rail and bottom of the V so it has two solid gluing surfaces.

Yeah baby!