HK Vanquish

[Ausboat]

445 good place to start, a x447 may work good as well. Start with the x445 check temps if all is well you could try to move up

Great ! I'll try that and see how I go. I just noticed, on the tabs, I seem to have enough room to be able to elongate the holes in the tabs themselves and move them level with the hull. Would this be a good way to go or should I redrill the mount holes and so on to go slightly higher than the bottom of the hull ? Thanks for your help so far - invaluable !

[martin]

Great ! I'll try that and see how I go. I just noticed, on the tabs, I seem to have enough room to be able to elongate the holes in the tabs themselves and move them level with the hull. Would this be a good way to go or should I redrill the mount holes and so on to go slightly higher than the bottom of the hull ? Thanks for your help so far - invaluable !

Ideally the tabs should go above the bottom of the hull. Thanks.

[Diesel6401]

Great ! I'll try that and see how I go. I just noticed, on the tabs, I seem to have enough room to be able to elongate the holes in the tabs themselves and move them level with the hull. Would this be a good way to go or should I redrill the mount holes and so on to go slightly higher than the bottom of the hull ? Thanks for your help so far - invaluable !

Reference post 48 of this thread on how I did it. https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...8&postcount=48

[Ausboat]

Thanks, yes, I'll look again at your post. I thought I had enough space to elongate the holes and get the tabs high enough, but looking again just now I think I'll have to follow your method :) Since your advice re the tabs I've realised how much effect they must have down where they are and so I'm certain now that that + the correct prop, will fix the problems I have. Thanks again for your advice :)

[b.mcdaniel.2009]

Just bought a CC1717 for this bad boy. Went a complete different route lol.

Thats what i like to hear! Over powered is the way LOL!

[Diesel6401]

The stock strut apparently has a 3/16 bushing in it. My new flexshaft fits it perfectly no need to change the bushing on this hull. The stock bushing I removed is actually larger then my .187 aeromarine bushings I normally use. This is the first hull from HK or china in that matter that a 3/16 shaft fits the stock bushing. Great to know!

[GP73]

The Pursuit from HK now comes with with a 3/16 shaft as well.

Mine was bent mind you...

The stock strut apparently has a 3/16 bushing in it. My new flexshaft fits it perfectly no need to change the bushing on this hull. The stock bushing I removed is actually larger then my .187 aeromarine bushings I normally use. This is the first hull from HK or china in that matter that a 3/16 shaft fits the stock bushing. Great to know!

[6sHyper]

they just restocked these!! i ordered one, yippy 77 bucks lol

[Diesel6401]

The Pursuit from HK now comes with with a 3/16 shaft as well.

Mine was bent mind you...

Very good to know.

[hpipro4]

just ordered mine after waiting for weeks!

you guys think the turnigy 180a esc will be enough for this boat?

[6sHyper]

just ordered mine after waiting for weeks!

you guys think the turnigy 180a esc will be enough for this boat?

i grabbed a t180 for mine as well, planning on using either a CC1717 or leopard 4082 on 6s.

[hpipro4]

which one is the cc1717? are they like 1/8th scale truggy motors??if thats the case i might just run my tekin t8 motor 2250kv on 4s....any thoughts?

[Ausboat]

Originally Posted by Diesel6401
445 good place to start, a x447 may work good as well. Start with the x445 check temps if all is well you could try to move up

Your input has been invaluable ! Now planes and goes well, although I'm waiting on some 6S batteries which I hope will make it go even better. Just a couple of questions ... where is everyone mounting their batteries ? I put in a platform at the rear and put mine there, it seemed to be the only place I could get a reasonable COG, and I have the 180A Esc mounted on the original platform, in front of the motor. Also, having tightened everything in the transom, after fitting washers too, I still seem to be getting water in, not much and possible from up the shaft. I did put a rubber seal between the stinger and transom as there was a huge gap there (had the same issue on the Pursuit I had) and I just wondered if there was a better method ?
Thanks for all your help so far guys ! :)

[Ausboat]

just ordered mine after waiting for weeks!

you guys think the turnigy 180a esc will be enough for this boat?

I have a Turnigy 180A in mine that seems to handle things fine, as the one in my Pursuit did. However, it suddenly failed, no apparent reason but had no output on the 5v to the Rx. I have heard of similar failures and the consensus seemed to be that there were good ones and bad ones !

[6sHyper]

I have a Turnigy 180A in mine that seems to handle things fine, as the one in my Pursuit did. However, it suddenly failed, no apparent reason but had no output on the 5v to the Rx. I have heard of similar failures and the consensus seemed to be that there were good ones and bad ones !

no biggy most guys run seperate rx battery pack anyway. if you dont want it how much?? lol

[Diesel6401]

Bring this thread back to life. I went to put the stringer on today after being off since day one. I went to start trimming everything out neutral (trim tabs/Struts angle) and the freaking stringer is below the hull as well just like the trim tabs where. Problem is the whole inside of the boat including the stuffing tube is fiberglasses over. I am clueless on this one.

[m4a1usr]

Bring this thread back to life. I went to put the stringer on today after being off since day one. I went to start trimming everything out neutral (trim tabs/Struts angle) and the freaking stringer is below the hull as well just like the trim tabs where. Problem is the whole inside of the boat including the stuffing tube is fiberglasses over. I am clueless on this one.

Man that sux! Normal stinger install (for me at least) is having the stuffing tube approx 1/4-3/8" above the bottom surface. Those clowns went all the way to the bottom. Shows how much they know.

In looking at all of the pics and you do have several options. Just none are decent. The quick fix is taper (file the down the diameter) the back of the stinger so that you reduce the aluminum extending below the hull. Totaly sux to mod the hardware but may not be a bad option. With a gentle taper towards the prop you might get away with doing the least amount of work.

But to do it right you need to remove the stinger, cut out the dang stuffing tube, bring it up a 1/4" and reglass. Much more work since your going to need to redrill all the holes. But it will be 100% right. No half way meaures.

Not what you wanted to hear right? I know. I been burned myself, didnt expect to see what I got. Good luck on your decision. I myself have been toying with buying one. The price is so damn good! Hard not to toss $130 or so bux at a new 40" mono!

John

[Diesel6401]

Man that sux! Normal stinger install (for me at least) is having the stuffing tube approx 1/4-3/8" above the bottom surface. Those clowns went all the way to the bottom. Shows how much they know.

In looking at all of the pics and you do have several options. Just none are decent. The quick fix is taper (file the down the diameter) the back of the stinger so that you reduce the aluminum extending below the hull. Totaly sux to mod the hardware but may not be a bad option. With a gentle taper towards the prop you might get away with doing the least amount of work.

But to do it right you need to remove the stinger, cut out the dang stuffing tube, bring it up a 1/4" and reglass. Much more work since your going to need to redrill all the holes. But it will be 100% right. No half way meaures.

Not what you wanted to hear right? I know. I been burned myself, didnt expect to see what I got. Good luck on your decision. I myself have been toying with buying one. The price is so damn good! Hard not to toss $130 or so bux at a new 40" mono!

John

Thank you for your opinon/info John, its always valuable. If I would have known that before I reglassed the hull I would have moved everything around and redrilled the stuffung tube and the stringer. Now that its glassed over , just not gonna happen. I don't want to remove the glass I just laid even though ii know it would be the proper fix. I thought about elongating the holes like I did with the trim tabs and moving the stringer up a few mm, but then I run the risk of the stuffing tube and stringer not being inline. I know it should be up above the the hull like you mentioned John, but if I can just get it flush with the bottom of the hull I will be happy. Anything is better then the way it is now. If I get another one of these, I will redo all the freaking hardware and properly drill it out. Stock location is terrible. Maybe I will try a combo of elongating the holes and grinding the hardware like you mentioned. At this point I'm looking for a quick fix/band-aid. It just a sport hull I don't race and mostly run by mysekf so I am just looking for a decent running boat at this point.

[ron1950]

tiqueman has a persuit with a 4082 and a 180a turnegy and m445 prop with the card of capassitors and no heat prob at all....

[m4a1usr]

At this point I'm looking for a quick fix/band-aid. It just a sport hull I don't race and mostly run by mysekf so I am just looking for a decent running boat at this point.

Then I would take off the stinger and get busy with a file. You might need to only reduce the diameter sticking out below the bottom for an inch or so. Hard to tell without having the critter sitting on the bench to guesstimate. But my guess would be is file it down to almost nothing at the rear, then taper it off going back toward the prop. Once a hull is on plane that last 4 to 6 inches of bottom is the last portion touching the water. Since your like me, sport running, and not needing things to be 100% perfect for racing your likely to make this fix work. Just look at the angles, take a straight edge, see what needs to come off. Heck. You might stumble upon a great performance mod for the newbies. Chances are pretty good your hull is not the only one built this way. Regardless, your savy, know your stuff, and will have this fixed in any direction your decide to go.

John

[GP73]

I guess we got screwed by buying the first batch? Might as well taking all the hardware out and redo the whole thing?

Or maybe just sell it in the swap shop.

[GP73]

Chances are pretty good your hull is not the only one built this way.

You're correct, same hull with the same problems here...

I guess I was lucky I haven't yet done anything to her unlike Diesel.

[Diesel6401]

I guess we got screwed by buying the first batch? Might as well taking all the hardware out and redo the whole thing?

Or maybe just sell it in the swap shop.

I would take the rudder, stringer and trim tabs off re-glass then re-drill them. Then lay CF or FG all in the inside. I did my whole inside with FG EVERYWHERE. Strong like bull now, but dang the hardware situation pissed me off

* If you wanna sell it let me know.... I will gladly take it off your hands.

[Daniel2000]

thanks for pointing that out diesel
when I saw your picture, I instantly gone to my box and check the boat for the same defect, it is a bit below the hull but very little, not as much as yours, got lucky on that, and I haven't done anything yet to it so I can still do a proper job if I'm willing to go that far, but I'm also a sport runner, no racing, will adjust the trim tabs, do a quick fix on the surface drive and put a layer of FB in it to make it solid
will continue to come back to the thread to see what is new about this hull
I can't build them all at the same time so the boat is on the waiting list for now... lol (3 heli, 6 planes, 3 trucks...) :p

[Make-a-Wake]

Diesel....................just try running it as is to see what you have to work with.....cant hurt. The problem you will find is that it will literally ride on the prop...........which will give you torque roll problems, and it will not corner well.

[GP73]

I would take the rudder, stringer and trim tabs off re-glass then re-drill them. Then lay CF or FG all in the inside. I did my whole inside with FG EVERYWHERE. Strong like bull now, but dang the hardware situation pissed me off

That's exactly what I'm thinking of doing after seeing that strut, what's the best way to fill the holes? Just FG and epoxy? I was thinking of reinforcing the transom with some plywood maybe... ?

* If you wanna sell it let me know.... I will gladly take it off your hands.

I'll let you know if I decide to sell it instead of fixing it.

For now I'll just keep it in storage, I'm waiting for a 1717 motor mount anyway... But keep in mind that shipping something that big from Canada might cost you more than getting a new one from HK.

[Diesel6401]

Diesel....................just try running it as is to see what you have to work with.....cant hurt. The problem you will find is that it will literally ride on the prop...........which will give you torque roll problems, and it will not corner well.

I thought about that and like Bill said it may be easier to just knock it out now while the boat is still not complete. I think I will try to raise it up a little now maybe tomorrow. I still have to solder up the esc and trim the wires on the 1717. The torque roll with a x450/3 maybe bad.

I may have to go to a bigger bullet connector. I have 6.5s and it says they should fit 8 gauge wire but those esc's leads are some damn thick it's gonna be a pain in the butt to fit those in a 6.5 cc bullet. I do have some open end bullets but there 5.5. I don't want to step down I rather step up. I still planned on running 5.5's on the battery end considering all my batts and chargers are currently 5.5. Any thoughts on this?!?

[Diesel6401]

But keep in mind that shipping something that big from Canada might cost you more than getting a new one from HK.

That makes sense. I guess I will just grab another one of these from HK when they come back in stock then. Next one will the Leopard 4082 in it. I guess I'll just use this as a $70 test hull.

[Diesel6401]

Ok back on track with this. I was able to elongate the holes and move the stringer up. It's not as high as I want, but I hope it works ok for sport boating. I was aiming to make it flush with the bottom of the hull and got a little lucky and was able to get about 1mm up. Not a lot but ANYTHING is better then the way it came. So far stringer, both trim tabs and 1 (port side) turn fin all had to be moved and rudder braket modded also hull strengthed with FG. I ran a bead of RTV around the base of the stringer and got trimmed out neutral.

I looked to try Johns idea of grinding a little material off and the wall thickness of the strut on the part nearest the transom is just way to thin. I was afraid to do it. Doesn't appear to have misaligned the stuffing tube with the strut. I had some room to work with because of the way the stringer was made. So flex should slide in no problem... So I pray

[martin]

These hull must be coming from a different factory than the Osprey which is the same hull & hardware. As the Osprey trim tabs on the one ive got are between 1.5mm above the hull bottom in their lowest position & 2.5mm above at their highest position & the bottom of the stinger is around 2mm above the hull. Martin.