HK Vanquish

[Diesel6401]

Figured I would start a fresh thread. Here's the link to the orginal if anyone wants to reference it https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ad.php?t=21797.

Boat arrived today. First impression is this thing is NOT small. Looks good. Here are some of the plus's and minus's so far.

Plus:
+ Price
+ Size
+ Shape & Design
+ Motor coupler is very nice 3 piece desing, I may be able to replace the brass fitting with a .187 insert from Kintec.
+ Hardware - nice quality & mounted
+ Motor mount is attached VERY well unlike most HK/China hulls

Minus:
- Wood mount trays not attached well, not sure about the servo mount
- Hull seems very thin on FG
- 4mm 2 piece square drive
- Decals are not easily removed. Can't tell if it's paint or Decal's that are clear coated
- Small imperfections in the gelcoat. Small ding on the back transom. Nothing major and to be expected

* I am going to have to re-read forescotts thread again on the Osprey and get some info.

[Diesel6401]

In the pic of the coupler you can see the 3 piece design and I think the insert from Jan may work http://kintecracing.com/Collets_Couplers.html 1st choice on the page, the .187 insert make work.

[Diesel6401]

Purposed setup is going to be:

Motor: Leopard 4082 1500kv
Esc: Swordfish 240, CC 240 Ice, Etti 150 Navy Opto (As you can see I am not 100% sure yet)
Drive: .187 3/16 flex
Servo: EXI D226F Digital Servo (Hopefully big enough) http://www.hobbypartz.com/60gexidise.html
RX: Spektrum MR200
Batts: 5s1p & 6s1p - Turnigy 6000mah 25c-50c nano-techs. Really don't want to go 2p, but if I don't have a choice I will.
Prop: CF48, x447, x447/3, m445

*I have everything except the motor & esc. I do have a swordy 200 laying around, but I DO NOT want to run 6s on it.

* Looking for a sport boat setup, speed goal is mid to high 40mph. I don't want to get crazy with it. Liking the 4082 leopard because I can use the stock mount.

- Always open to suggestions from those more wise then myself!

[785boats]

Diesel.
My experience with these HK, HOR, R2hobbies type boats is that the hardware on the back is usually loose & poorly sealed, & there is no thickness/strength in the transom. With the ones I've done I always remove the hardware, epoxy an extra 1/8 ply doubler in the transom, seal it with some light glass & refit all the gear using longer bolts & some sealer.
Of course this one might be different, but it's worth checking.
Paul.

[JackBlack26]

Hey, I thought HK said it came with a 36mm motor mount? Maybe they changed it to a 40.

Really digging it. I'm going to order one when they come back in stock.

[Diesel6401]

Diesel.
My experience with these HK, HOR, R2hobbies type boats is that the hardware on the back is usually loose & poorly sealed, & there is no thickness/strength in the transom. With the ones I've done I always remove the hardware, epoxy an extra 1/8 ply doubler in the transom, seal it with some light glass & refit all the gear using longer bolts & some sealer.
Of course this one might be different, but it's worth checking.
Paul.

I always double check my hardware on every new boat I get even from PB or AQ. I haven't had any chance to really REALLY look over the hull but the doubler they have installed seems to be fine. I will keep everyone posted. Good info....

Hey, I thought HK said it came with a 36mm motor mount? Maybe they changed it to a 40.

Really digging it. I'm going to order one when they come back in stock.

The mount they use is a universal mount for 36mm or 40m motors, All they do is change the aft the support ring to suit each motor. I have a spare 40mm support ring laying around, but I will prob just end up using a zip-tie like I have done in the past.

[gultch]

any thoughts on how to remove the stock timber fittings thanks

[iamandrew]

well.. i removed most of the wood from my genesis simply by heating up the wood with a hair dryer, then getting a chizel and slowly wedging off the wood.
worked really well.
Dont overheat the boat though

[gultch]

did ur stuffing tube have a kink in it about 3 inches from the end and did u remove it also

[Brushless55]

this hull looks cool man!

[JackBlack26]

I just pulled on the wood in my Genesis and it came apart. Then used a dermel with sanding drum to smooth out the residue. My stuffing tube fell off when removed the strut, lol.

IMO, if you want to keep the wood in any of these boats you have to glass over it.

I'm still wishing I would of ordered one of these boats when they were in stock, weeks back. Now I have a 1717 with no home.

[Brushless55]

how big are these??

[forescott]

40-41 inches tip to stern.

[forescott]

What did shipping end up costing??

[785boats]

Diesel.
If the glass in the hull is thin, the motor mounts will twist the bottom of the hull from side to side & you will end up with cracks in the gelcoat under the hull. This is because the torque of the motor is transfered to such small contact areas in the hull with no bracing. I've also seen those freestanding mounts rip out of a 32" hull in a guys boat in the first 10' of it's maiden run.
I would suggest running a set of rails along the hull glued to the mounts & the hull & a fillet of glass added down each side.
I just gutted & rebuild a 32" Pursuit hull I bought second hand. Full of cracks in the gelcoat & the mount breaking away from the hull on one side.
I always run the rails from the transom to up past the front of the hatch with the battery tray in between them. also with a crosspiece to support the stuffing tube. Makes for a very rigid hull.
Here's a couple of pics to give you an idea.
Great looking boat you've got there, by the way.
Paul.

[forescott]

I ran some long rails in mine. But I was running the leopard 5692. It definitely is a good way to transfer the torque load.

[JackBlack26]

785boats, is that the power wire to your ESC from the battery sticking out of the hull? If so, how well does that work? Looks like a great idea!....unless you run in salt water, I guess.

[785boats]

Yep.
It's known as a 'Safety Loop' I don't know about in the States, but here in Australia, & Europe too, it is compulsory to have one when racing.
It is mainly so that when the guy in the rescue boat picks up a dead boat he can disable the electrics to prevent any injury should the motor suddenly fire up.
Helps with prop changes & hardware adjustments too. No need to untape the hatch. Just pull the loop & it's all safe.
Cheers.
Paul.

[siberianhusky]

I think North America is the only place you are not required to have some kind of battery isolation outside the hull for safety reasons, makes sense to me, much safer for the guy in the retrieval boat if he knows he can easily shut the boat down.
I retrieved a SV with an AM radio last year that kept starting up in the bottom of the aluminum boat as the radio glitched! Luckily I always place the boats upside down just in case somebody hits a throttle or something.

[martin]

We run safety loops all the time including in salt water which i run on all the time. Their great as you dont have to keep untaping the hatch to switch off in between runs. Its their as a safety thing primarily, Your not allowed to compete in Naviga competitions without the external loop. It prevents someone getting injured from revolving props when the boats on shore should it get activated or a faulty radio or something else engages the drive as you only plug the system in when your about to put the boat in the water & unplug when it comes out of the water. Thanks.

[Diesel6401]

Diesel.
If the glass in the hull is thin, the motor mounts will twist the bottom of the hull from side to side & you will end up with cracks in the gelcoat under the hull. This is because the torque of the motor is transfered to such small contact areas in the hull with no bracing. I've also seen those freestanding mounts rip out of a 32" hull in a guys boat in the first 10' of it's maiden run.
I would suggest running a set of rails along the hull glued to the mounts & the hull & a fillet of glass added down each side.
I just gutted & rebuild a 32" Pursuit hull I bought second hand. Full of cracks in the gelcoat & the mount breaking away from the hull on one side.
I always run the rails from the transom to up past the front of the hatch with the battery tray in between them. also with a crosspiece to support the stuffing tube. Makes for a very rigid hull.
Here's a couple of pics to give you an idea.
Great looking boat you've got there, by the way.
Paul.

I have a pursuit and I didn't add any extra glass to it and it is holding up well with a leopard 4074 2200kv in it. This hull is FREAKING HUGE and theirs a lot of room to work in it. They did a good job installing the motor mount, better then any of the other TFL hulls I have. I am thinking off just adding FG to the bottom of the hull around the motor mount and the stuffing tube. I have no intention on doing rails at this time. I am hoping the extra FG will do the trick. It will be awhile until I get any work done on this hull. I have to finish 2 other boats first and come up with some funding for this badboy. I think I may roll with the CC 240 ice.

Thanks

What did shipping end up costing??

$50 I think. Total price shipped was $128. I did not choose the expensive shipping method.

* Did you add any FG or CF to the bottom of your hull?

[Daniel2000]

nice thread
was just looking for info on this boat, as I received mine yesterday, it's fun to know I'm not the only one with one
thanks to that, I will do some work on it to make sure its sturdy
I already have the ESC (Turnigy Marine 180A),
for motor, I was looking toward a Loepard 4082 1250kv and run this on 6s
any opinion on this set up?

[Diesel6401]

nice thread
was just looking for info on this boat, as I received mine yesterday, it's fun to know I'm not the only one with one
thanks to that, I will do some work on it to make sure its sturdy
I already have the ESC (Turnigy Marine 180A),
for motor, I was looking toward a Loepard 4082 1250kv and run this on 6s
any opinion on this set up?

Yea that setup would work. Would give you upper 20k unloaded rpm's the esc although a GREAT one IMO maybe the weak link in that setup. I am not a fan pushing esc's to their max voltage. Some have had good success running the 180 on 6s others no so good success. If you get a better esc like a HV esc, you could even run 7s and be good.

I plan on ordering the CC240 ice very soon. Tower says "On Order"

[gultch]

nice thread
was just looking for info on this boat, as I received mine yesterday, it's fun to know I'm not the only one with one
thanks to that, I will do some work on it to make sure its sturdy
I already have the ESC (Turnigy Marine 180A),
for motor, I was looking toward a Loepard 4082 1250kv and run this on 6s
any opinion on this set up?

hi daniel i have the same plan except motor is castle 1717 im using the turnigy 180 with full mods (water contact on all of the heatsink and double the caps) just to be on the safe side. ive also ripped out all the wood and will reinforce the hull with cf including the seam all the way to the bow and fill with small amounts of expander foam until its full about 2 inches back from front of the hatch then carbon fibre firewall and add some carbon fibre tubes under the lip in the side of the hatch (carbon tubes from shortening carbon arrows about 3 inches long) as they seem really flimsy also a thin layer of carbon fibre over the ply in the transom

[GP73]

Hey Diesel, are the trim tab mounted flush with the hull?

[Daniel2000]

Yea that setup would work. Would give you upper 20k unloaded rpm's the esc although a GREAT one IMO maybe the weak link in that setup. I am not a fan pushing esc's to their max voltage. Some have had good success running the 180 on 6s others no so good success. If you get a better esc like a HV esc, you could even run 7s and be good.

I plan on ordering the CC240 ice very soon. Tower says "On Order"

then would you recommend to run a 5s with a higher kv motor?
like the 1450kv or the 1500kv or even 4s with the 2200kv?
that would put the ESC in a safer voltage zone?
since I already have the ESC, I would like to still use it and make it last for a bit, and not burn it in my first run

and thanks for the advise

[martin]

Hey Diesel, are the trim tab mounted flush with the hull?

I have an Osprey which is the same boat & the tabs are mounted above the hull bottom. Martin.

[martin]

If useing a 4082 1500kv whats the highest voltage you can go to to be reasonably safe on a T180 esc 5s & would 6s be pushing your luck in this large hull. Not sure whether 5s is enough in this hull though for reasonable speeds, Your thoughts. Thanks.

[GP73]

I think the trim tabs on my Vanquish are mounted too low, even when moved all the way up they still stick out about 1.5mm below the hull.

I'm wondering if that is correct or I should drill the mount holes a little and move them up further.

I have an Osprey which is the same boat & the tabs are mounted above the hull bottom. Martin.

[martin]

On my Osprey their about 1.3mm above the bottom of the hull when pulled all the way down & about 3.5mm above when lifted to their highest. Martin.