Spartan, tear it down to build it up

[Brushless55]

if they were true Castle they would have the Castle wires cuz they put them on their products
I really think someone else is building them, just like the Leopards

Not according to this: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...t=30208&page=2

Patrick del Castillo of Castle states the motors are built by Castle Holdings LLC in China, The ESC is built by Castle in the in USA.
The ESC is a new design, the motor is based on an existing platform.
Kevin

Like I said along with Castle... if the motors say Castle on them they are a true Castle motor
if they do not they are not made by Castle
Leopards are a Castle design just like these new spartan motors
so what I said is correct acording to Castle!

[GeoVW72]

Well, I already had it apart, of course and the rotor looks decidedly castle after seeing tacons and such. If you have a Leopard I would love to see it apart.


I can see why a x642 could blow the system, this was a x640 and the amps are pretty close to what the controller was at when the rotors let go on the fieagos.

4s - 35mph


6s - 58


Yes it moves out and it is fast, but the spikes to 150A are pretty close to the controller's limit. I've seen them go to ~160A when the rotor went and I imagine that the controller is not that far behind.
I would not recommend a x640 for a standard running prop, IF you want it to move out up and down the lake a few times and have the packs to put out +150A and no other issues then sure.

On to a x440

[Brushless55]

Well, I already had it apart, of course and the rotor looks decidedly castle after seeing tacons and such. If you have a Leopard I would love to see it apart.

castle already stated they do not make this motor...
but who ever makes it I'm glad they do because the stock sucker sucked

keep up the good work Geo!

[mtnbiker94]

So I'm getting the new castle replacement from traxxas as I just fried my motor, what prop would you recommend for just regular usage? Not balls to the walls speed but something that will give it a little more with out doing any harm to the new motor and esc!

Thanks

[Brushless55]

So I'm getting the new castle replacement from traxxas as I just fried my motor, what prop would you recommend for just regular usage? Not balls to the walls speed but something that will give it a little more with out doing any harm to the new motor and esc!

Thanks

the new Traxxas Tecon/Leopard non-Castle motor should work great using a X440/3

[dmwilson09]

the new Traxxas Tecon/Leopard non-Castle motor should work great using a X440/3

The New Motors from Traxxas are Castle Motors (They have a Castle logo on them)..... They are a Castle 1420 - 1800KV motor.

Check out this website
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...t=30208&page=2

[Brushless55]

Does anyone have pictures of this new motor, I would love to see the Castle logo on it...
This would be great if they are built by Castle/China !

[dmwilson09]

Does anyone have pictures of this new motor, I would love to see the Castle logo on it...
This would be great if they are built by Castle/China !

https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...C-from-Traxxas

[Brushless55]

thank you Wilson!

[GeoVW72]

BL55: I guess you've been out of the loop a little bit, Patric from Castle confirmed that they did make the motor and the new escs on RC Monster

mtnbiker94: so far a P215 or a pro boat 1.6"x2.5" stainless are excellent. Basically equal to the stock prop but in metal. The pro boat is a little easier to find and work with, softer alloy/cleaner cast, I've found them to work well without straining any part of the stock system.

I was a little quick with my last post, the liner had also broken the CA joint on the tube and started spinning. Maybe we are overworking .150 cable.

x440 isn't the best prop

4s - 34mph


6s - 48


The prop gave the boat an odd running attitude, I guess that the x4 series tend to be have a slight lift to them. So a lot of the hull was wet and on 6s it really wanted to chine walk.
Maybe an x638 or a modified x640/2 could work, but so far the p215 is the most reliable prop.

Geo

[GeoVW72]

So now I have lots of transom bling



The longer screws didn't want to thread all the way to keep the tabs tight on the transom. Drilled the mount holes slightly deeper with an 1/8" bit, you still want something there for them to bite into.

Also got a stock prop in on the order;

4s - 35mph


6s - 52


Seems what I though was the new system was the prop I was using, amp draw is back to what it was.
Good lesson on where amp draw comes from:


Props are pretty much the same, given that the plastic chips easily I wouldn't call that the major factor. The size of the prop shank is the big difference. Experientially the stock prop cavitates more under acceleration, but that it what it was designed to do to keep the amp draw low.

Geo

[rinski73]

hope you guys like this

[GeoVW72]

I'm really surprised that stock drive line is holding up. I guess if you keep well on top of maintenance it can.

Ran the P225 with the new motor;



The packs had been sitting for a few days (I was at RCX, more on that in a minute) boat did have a hint of torque roll if you got on it.

I think I've finally got some good setup advice;
The COG that works for me is around 9" from the transom, you can go less on 4s depending on how stable the boat is.
I know I've said that a positive strut angle helps, but all that seems to do is put more stress on the drive line, run it level and let the hull do the lifting.
Traxxas did get it right with the box stock tab settings. The outer tabs are set close to that, the inner is just level. The inner does help slightly with stability, at the very least it squares up the end of the hull well.
I don't do anything to counteract torque roll, that is just a drive line issue.


So I found myself at RCX this past weekend, trust me if you weren't there you didn't miss anything. Had a good chat with Peter on what the boat needs and had mine on hand to show him what I'd done(they did have one of the first run boats there so the Castle stuff is in the hands of the people that need it). Spent the last few days composing a report for the design team. The motor was a big step in the right direction, not sure how long they'll take to make the rest of it right, so those that feel like making the mods themselves;



The natural characteristic of cable of that length under torque is to try and S-bend. Given the large number of drive line meltdowns, and the location of the discoloration/failure, around 4.5". Things have to change. The stock cable is still too aggressive for the way the tube is constructed, I tried running it and after it expelled all the grease it torque rolled until the liner came free then started melting down.

A few drops of CA(super glue) at the motor end of the tube between the teflon and brass keeps only the parts need to spin spinning, also make a mark with a sharpie to know if the bond breaks free.

With Jeff's cable the drive line functions the way it should have out of the box with only an occasional hint of torque roll with a stock or similar prop. Going with larger props(x640) overworked the cable and broke the CA bond free(A good tell tale there's a problem)

The other problem is alignment.
At the very least the stock drive line needs tweaked; Remove the tray, strut, and transom plug. notch the brass is the rear of the tray and install the tray without disturbing it. The brass should exit center of the transom hole, but mine exits at the top. When you install the tray and fit the brass into the plug it unnotches and the tray flexes, changing the alignment to the motor.

That is one you have to look at making a new drive line, where everything rests. I would take more of the rear guide off so it acts as such and not a retaining notch. Remove the tray locks too because you'll have the thing in-n-out quite a few times.

The strut is also a problem area for alignment, I know I've said that tweaking it can help, but I've found that it does more harm than good.
You should have the drive line installed and ready to go; then loosen the setscrew on the collet to keep the alignment where it's going to be, but allowing the drive line to spin unrestricted. Turn the drive line by hand, if you feel any resistance loosen the two strut mount screws until the strut floats but is not loose on the transom. bump or jiggle the stub and keep turning the drive line until it feels free. Tighten everything up, give it one final check, and send it off.

Expect to see drive temps around 80-90*f at the rear behind the servo. If you extend the new tube toward the motor, or between the front tray mounting screws, look for temps of 100-130*f there. Beyond that creates drag and the CA bond will usually break at that point.

If that doesn't work; try, try again. I went through a few tubes before I got it right. I wish I could make them, but every boat is different and requires fitting, and I don't have access to a repeatable tubing bender.

Spartan Re-Designer
George

[Snafujg]

George, sent you a PM. Hope your around still. Or maybe you're in-house at Traxxas helping them now!

[wilsta67]

hope you guys like this

cool vid
id be taping your hatch if your sticking your gps in there use some wide duck tape a strip down each side is enough. because that hatch does come off in a crash/flip shown in my video here.

[DARK SOUL]

what is the studering sound comin from the boat great save

[wilsta67]

what is the studering sound comin from the boat great save

i bought one of the first spartans its the esc pulsating/ shagged brand new. not long after this video, the esc blew up.

[DARK SOUL]

O i have not heard one pulse like that it seems like a quicker pulse than ive heard before

[wilsta67]

O i have not heard one pulse like that it seems like a quicker pulse than ive heard before

then i upgraded the motor to a cc1515 and t180 and ran this on 6s as some one done for me it lasted a while and the esc fried as well i replaced the esc with another t180 lasted for a while and it popped too. after three esc fring in a plastic hull it was not pretty all the battery trays were distorted from the heat the bottom of the hull was not level any more and it even melted the nose of the boat some how.
so i sold it after that.

[DARK SOUL]

i would like to have another hull just for a project have a few ideas would like to try but need a cheap hull

[wilsta67]

what you call cheap?

[DARK SOUL]

50-75 bucks just dont want to pay like ebay prices r like 120.00 for a hull with nothing not even a hatch

[wilsta67]

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=df-delta26

i have bought two gas boat hulls of this guy and there great for the money

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Boogieman...#ht_1246wt_905

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/33-deep-V...#ht_1314wt_905


http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/27-shovel...#ht_1280wt_905

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Promise-Ho...=p4634.c0.m322

[DARK SOUL]

thanks wilsta will check those out

[GeoVW72]

I'm always around, always happy to help

I got a chance to run on Erie this past weekend.
It was calm the one day, the next there was some good waves;


Wasn't running it as hard in the vid as I had, but it was pretty choppy. I even got the chance to run 6s the day before. Forgot the logger at home though.
Didn't have any issues with the drive line loading and unloading or the hull. They need to take the hull seam gluing robot off 11 so the hulls can bond right.
This is where the boat really shines. Didn't flip or buoy it at all, it would be more stable with a longer rudder as it did get squirrely a few times.