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Thread: Cooling an XL

  1. #1
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    Default Cooling an XL

    I am using 10XL motors and am using the sv27 water jackets. However these jackets are alot shorter than I thought they would be. To the point you could easily put 2 on. So my quest. is which end of the motor should be cooled? By the shaft or by the wires?

  2. #2
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    Use two and hook them up in series,,,I did it on my SV27 and using silicone to seal the ends,,it works great

  3. #3
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    well I will do that but I am strapping my motors in rather than mounting them at the end so I need some room for my strap. thanks I wasnt sure if it was needed.

  4. #4
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    Stapping them in???? I am not so sure that is the way to go.... You might want to rethink that. I am not saying you don't have a great setup nor and I in anyway saying you don't know what you doing. What I am saying is that you have already mounted your stuffing tubings. It is going to be SUPER hard to get a even decent alignment and have them strapped in well enough to were they don't move at all. You have to realize there is tramindious force in the boat when it does anything other than run perfect at high speeds.

  5. #5
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    NOW you tell me!! No one ever said strapping wasnt good. I guess I never asked. yeah Im using rather thick steel bent on a press break and will have rubber inside to the motor. I think it will work well. Mounts are gonna be about 25 mm wide. Or 25 of the 73mm that the motor is long. Those will then be screwed into the hull of boat, well, A mounting plate in hull of boat.

  6. #6
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    stuffing tubes arent permanent yet. Im actually just ordered more from FD cause I wanna bend them with my new tubing bender!

  7. #7
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    Default

    I would ditch the straps also.

    as far as cooling goes the Lehner alum. water jackets will fit xl size motors and are 100% better then the silicon ones on the SV.

    if I remember right Steve sells a alum water jacket also that should work.

  8. #8
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    Got a good trick for you!
    use a piece of tube a bit larger than the motor can (whatever material you have), glue some brass tube on it, find (or make) too big seal of silicon rectangle section, stick them all together!
    I made one for my 8XL from a fiberglass tube, I tested it only static with "mouth" pressure no leak at all!
    I work for a American Company, in the French sub, this company manufactures Powder Coating systems (and a lot more!) and I've use parts of an old Powder Spray Gun!!!
    I'll post some pix of it soon!
    Emmanuel
    I'm french but I doubt I really am!
    http://pagesperso-orange.fr/pleindetrucs/

  9. #9
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    Emmanuel
    I'm french but I doubt I really am!
    http://pagesperso-orange.fr/pleindetrucs/

  10. #10
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    The rear bearing end is the end I would put the cooler on.
    Steven Vaccaro

    Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!

  11. #11
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    Default cooling plate

    Interesting design for a controller hollow cooling plate.

  12. #12
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    same kind of design is used for PC's chipset or CPU watercooling
    Emmanuel
    I'm french but I doubt I really am!
    http://pagesperso-orange.fr/pleindetrucs/

  13. #13
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    Default same

    That would work on some of these new HV controllers.

  14. #14
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    that would work on any esc where the original heat sink is not glued!
    Emmanuel
    I'm french but I doubt I really am!
    http://pagesperso-orange.fr/pleindetrucs/

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