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Thread: OSE 40mm x 74mm motors

  1. #61
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    Very interested to see how these work out..... Starting to build my twin next week...

  2. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    YOu mean Tacons?
    Yep. You are correct sir!

    John
    Change is the one Constant

  3. #63
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    I stopped by the PO this morning and picked up my motor - looks good.

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCKong View Post
    Or a BAD A$$ P-MONO motor !!!
    Hmmmm ... you have me thinking now!
    IMPBA 20481S D-12

  5. #65
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    Are Leopard and Tacon motors the same?

  6. #66
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    It seems so. I have a pair of 2860 Tacon's and one 2845 Leopard, look & feel the same.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  7. #67
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    That's what I thought. Thanks
    I've seen ads that look identical (specs, dimensions, & weight) except for the color of the motor. Price can vary wildly also

  8. #68
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    Steven any idea what timing should be used?
    IMPBA 20481S D-12

  9. #69
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    I ran this motor 2 laps today and one of the motor wires came undone - there was very little solder on it.
    I'm re- soldering all the motor leads. Oh did I mention it was fast...

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCKong View Post
    I ran this motor 2 laps today and one of the motor wires came undone - there was very little solder on it.
    I'm re- soldering all the motor leads. Oh did I mention it was fast...
    What are you running yours in?
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCKong View Post
    I ran this motor 2 laps today and one of the motor wires came undone - there was very little solder on it.
    I'm re- soldering all the motor leads. Oh did I mention it was fast...
    Do you mean that the wire coming out of the can or one of the bullets? Either cant be good. Thanks for the heads up!

    John
    Change is the one Constant

  12. #72
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    John, the factory solder joints are sometimes alot to be desired. I redo them all.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  13. #73
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    I was testing it in my DF33 on 4s2P. It came apart at the bullet connector. The wire itself had little or no solder on it at all. Probably just a fluke, but I'm gonna make sure it dont happen again.

  14. #74
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    Thanks RCK - I'll now be removing the shrink and checking the joints on mine.

  15. #75
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    BEWARE !!! I don't know how your motor is but mine is
    - JUNK - I ran it yesterday, and it came apart at the bullet ( no solder ) in a min - never got above 90* in my DF33 with a X645. It took out a brand new T-180 ESC when it unconnected. When I fixed it ( re-soldered ) it cogged terribly, the wires got very hot, it would not run and had to unhook it quickly before it ruined another T-180 ESC
    I'm sending the motor and controller back to OSE.
    RCK

  16. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCKong View Post
    BEWARE !!! I don't know how your motor is but mine is
    - JUNK - I ran it yesterday, and it came apart at the bullet ( no solder ) in a min - never got above 90* in my DF33 with a X645. It took out a brand new T-180 ESC when it unconnected. When I fixed it ( re-soldered ) it cogged terribly, the wires got very hot, it would not run and had to unhook it quickly before it ruined another T-180 ESC
    I'm sending the motor and controller back to OSE.
    RCK
    That sounds like a 8XL keda motor I had in my Mean Machine.. It took out a 200A esc and the motor went to the dark side
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  17. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCKong View Post
    BEWARE !!! I don't know how your motor is but mine is
    - JUNK - I ran it yesterday, and it came apart at the bullet ( no solder ) in a min - never got above 90* in my DF33 with a X645. It took out a brand new T-180 ESC when it unconnected. When I fixed it ( re-soldered ) it cogged terribly, the wires got very hot, it would not run and had to unhook it quickly before it ruined another T-180 ESC
    I'm sending the motor and controller back to OSE.
    RCK
    What packs were you running?
    Steven Vaccaro

    Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!

  18. #78
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    I was running 2 4s 40c 5000mah Turnigys... plenty of juice -
    I'm pretty sure these motors are KEDA's
    http://www.kedamodel.com/product/skf4074.html

  19. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCKong View Post
    I was running 2 4s 40c 5000mah Turnigys... plenty of juice -
    May I ask why you start your testing with a x645 with a 2350kv motor in a mono?
    Steven Vaccaro

    Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!

  20. #80
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    I was going to ask that....?

    Keda or Leopard, all good motors.
    Nortavlag Bulc

  21. #81
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    Thats a prop or 2 down from what I run with my leopard 2200. It did not make it 3 times around the pond and failed. It took about 2 min to get the boat in via fishing pole, and it temped at 85* so I figured it was under 100* when it popped. Set up is not the issue. The reason it failed is because there was only a small spec of solder on the entire connection !!! Out of the 3 wires only 1 had any solder in it.
    Last edited by RCKong; 02-07-2011 at 01:11 PM.

  22. #82
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    Are you guys running with the stock (4mm) bullets? Don't you switch to at least 5.5mm?
    Support US hobby suppliers

  23. #83
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  24. #84
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    After hearing RCK's whoa's, I pulled the shrink back on all three wires of my motor to inspect the joints and there is VERY little solder in the connections - an extremely shoddy job of soldering IMHO. I'm not going to run the motor with the connectors like they are, and I don't feel it's my job to make it right.

  25. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    John, the factory solder joints are sometimes alot to be desired. I redo them all.
    Bump
    Nortavlag Bulc

  26. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by osprey21 View Post
    After hearing RCK's whoa's, I pulled the shrink back on all three wires of my motor to inspect the joints and there is VERY little solder in the connections
    Mine were like that too but its not a big deal to me. I go over each lead and resolder each motor I have that comes in. Heck for most I have to adapt to my bullet preference anyways. On some its 5.5, others its 6mm and on the bigger motors its 8mm bullets. But I have that ounce of prevention mentality when it comes to all my components.

    Looking forward to running this motor sometime in the next month when I get back from the road. It certainly feels like a torquey little bugger on 4S.

    John
    Change is the one Constant

  27. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by RCKong View Post
    BEWARE !!! I don't know how your motor is but mine is
    - JUNK - I ran it yesterday, and it came apart at the bullet ( no solder ) in a min - never got above 90* in my DF33 with a X645. It took out a brand new T-180 ESC when it unconnected. When I fixed it ( re-soldered ) it cogged terribly, the wires got very hot, it would not run and had to unhook it quickly before it ruined another T-180 ESC
    I'm sending the motor and controller back to OSE.
    RCK
    So, alsmost 2400kv. On 4s with a x645, in a DF33?!?!?!? That is a recipe for disaster. LOTS of amps there, man.

  28. #88
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    Are these Leopard clones?
    Attached Images Attached Images
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  29. #89
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    a clone of a clone of a clone. Chances are, they all come from the same place. Some with different components.

  30. #90
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    Yes, I have bought and sold one of those. Only sold it because I wanted the 4082 2200kv from Steve.
    Nortavlag Bulc

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