15" Small Bolt micro hydro

[Basstronics]

I am going to be reworking my 15" Small Bolt micro hydro.

It is one from Hobby King. I have upgraded the ESC to a 30A Etti and a traxxas servo.

Anyone else have one?

[SweetAccord]

I have another one on the way. The first one was damaged via postal and I get to keep it so extra parts, and another one is being sent. I'll probably swap the motor out for a 3900Kv and use a 30A Seaking ESC.

[Basstronics]

I see you edited your post. I started the Small Bolt thread on RC universe. I find myself calling this board home over the others.

So I decided on a theme for the boat. Now I need someone who can make me decals! I also picked up the paint.

Can anyone guess the color? lolz

This is my first boat/decal graphics design. Is there anything else I should add? Im a fun run person, no racing.

I got some putty to sand and then to the paint booth- AKA the basement... Hopefully I can get the paint done over the weekend. Two coats of Rustoleum and no clear (for now).

[CHUD]

Nice micro hull bass! If you need someone to do the decals try monojeff he did a nice job with my mini befu cat hull,and hydrojerry's

[Basstronics]

I got a PM into him with no response as of yet.

[wparsons]

I've got one, stock except for an x632 prop and some block sanding to the sponson bottoms. I also cut a bit off the stuffing tube so I could get a bit more negative angle on the strut. I've also reinforced the transom with some 1/32" ply after hitting a stick and breaking it apart a bit.



I've been thinking of repainting it, but I think I'll just leave it as is for now.

[SweetAccord]

I see you edited your post. I started the Small Bolt thread on RC universe. I find myself calling this board home over the others.

So I decided on a theme for the boat. Now I need someone who can make me decals! I also picked up the paint.

Can anyone guess the color? lolz

This is my first boat/decal graphics design. Is there anything else I should add? Im a fun run person, no racing.

I got some putty to sand and then to the paint booth- AKA the basement... Hopefully I can get the paint done over the weekend. Two coats of Rustoleum and no clear (for now).

LOL! I removed my post after I realize you are the same Basstronics on there as you are on OSE. I'll give more input on this hydro when I get it and how it compares to the Minicat hydro.

[igottalongone]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H61Nu-FFmnc

[CaptPJB]

Was considering upgrading my Small Bolt shaft to a one piece setup. Can anyone point me towards what is needed? I would prefer to support Steve and OSE if possible.

Thanks

Peter

[wparsons]

I'm looking into options for the same. Right now I'm considering getting a coupler/flex/stub from a mini rio, unsoldering the flex and soldering in music wire and running that. I'm sure there's similar parts available, but I noticed it while upgrading a friends mini rio to a wire drive a few months ago.

[Basstronics]

I just ordered up this option.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...oct-oc098L-24c

Then you need a coupler- the fun part. There is one left in the swap shop- I bought the other.
https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ad.php?t=21159

I decided to change up my theme on this. No more pink panther... Paint still happening this weekend. Gotta get this ready for the water!

[CaptPJB]

Come someone please give a starting point for the CG for a Small Bolt? Some folk seem to prefer a sideways battery just ahead of the motor citing better CG adjustment range others put it in line down the center.

Mono's are 25-30% from transom but not sure about a hydro as they basically run on the two front pads and the prop.

Thanks for any help or comments

Peter

[martin]

Tenshocks Minicat hydro is very simular hull to the Bolt in size & they use 6.1" in from the transom for the cog point, This should give a starting point & then go from their either way if nessesary. Thanks Martin.

[wparsons]

I run my battery (3s 2200mah) lengthwise as far forward as I can without it interfering with the hatch.

[CaptPJB]

OK I have to ask, is there an easy way to get the shaft out to grease etc. I removed the strut pulled off the drive end but had a heck of a time getting the flex shaft out. There is nothing to catch hold of as it is inside the copper tube, finally sort of pushed with a screwdriver on the flex shaft by the coupler until I could get some pliers to grip the other end.

[igottalongone]

Your flex cable is not attached to the prop shaft???

[martin]

I think most that have that design shaft dont like them & change them for one piece one where you just pull out without touching the strut. As far as what ive seen all the Hor boats use that design. Thanks Martin.

[CaptPJB]

It has a square end that fits in the female end that is in the strut, when I took the strut off they came apart

Your flex cable is not attached to the prop shaft???

[igottalongone]

If not, you will want to clean both the prop shaft and cable end with brake clean, or carb cleaner.. getting off any grease, etc... Then you attach the flex to the prop shaft with "red" loc-tite...
Ron

[CaptPJB]

Thanks will do that, then I assume you undo the strut after loosening the grub screw on the coupling and pull the whole thing out from the back?

Appreciate the help

If not, you will want to clean both the prop shaft and cable end with brake clean, or carb cleaner.. getting off any grease, etc... Then you attach the flex to the prop shaft with "red" loc-tite...
Ron

[martin]

Your flex cable is not attached to the prop shaft???

They use a separate stub shaft in the strut that has a step on it & is put in from the front of the strut, So if any thing comes loose or breaks you dont loose your shaft, prop ect, Theirs a square hole in the end of the stub shaft to witch the end of the flex has 4 flats ground so the square end of the flex goes into the square hole in the stub shaft. Thanks Martin.

[Basstronics]

Im switching mine over to .098 cable, 1/8" prop shaft with a set screw coupler.

[igottalongone]

Thanks will do that, then I assume you undo the strut after loosening the grub screw on the coupling and pull the whole thing out from the back?

Appreciate the help

Exactly...

[igottalongone]

They use a separate stub shaft in the strut that has a step on it & is put in from the front of the strut, So if any thing comes loose or breaks you dont loose your shaft, prop ect, Theirs a square hole in the end of the stub shaft to witch the end of the flex has 4 flats ground so the square end of the flex goes into the square hole in the stub shaft. Thanks Martin.

Yes, I know the sytem well...
When correctly installed the flex cable it affixed the the prop shaft with "red" loc-tite...
Ron

[Basstronics]

Why would the drive side with the flats need to be loctited into place?

The contraction the cable makes is the slip offered with such a joint. I guess you could allow space behind the drive dog here also- but I dont think that is the designs intent.

Also "red" loctite? Thats the permanent threadlocker stuff. I tried that on a wire drive and it was instant fail. I switched to the right stuff, now its like steel!

[wparsons]

Yes, I know the sytem well...
When correctly installed the flex cable it affixed the the prop shaft with "red" loc-tite...
Ron

You definitely don't want to glue/solder/weld the stub to the flex on a setup like this. There's no way to leave enough play between the drive dog and strut to allow room for the flex shaft to shrink under load.

Plus, the whole benefit to a one piece flex/stub is that you don't have to pull the strut off to remove it, but in this case you still would.

The best bet is to replace the flex and stub with a new one (or wire drive), it'll only be like $15 with a coupler anyway.

[igottalongone]

You definitely don't want to glue/solder/weld the stub to the flex on a setup like this. There's no way to leave enough play between the drive dog and strut to allow room for the flex shaft to shrink under load.

Plus, the whole benefit to a one piece flex/stub is that you don't have to pull the strut off to remove it, but in this case you still would.

The best bet is to replace the flex and stub with a new one (or wire drive), it'll only be like $15 with a coupler anyway.

Wrong... I have one in my hand right now, there is a good 2mm (more than enough) for cable shrink... I checked my Tenshock rigger as well, same exactly thing...
This type of system (stepped prop shaft) requires the strut be removed no matter if you affix the cable correctly or not...
Anyone who wants to install the cable correctly will want to red loc-tite the cable into the prop shaft... This system has been around for many years, the installation has always been the same. Either solder (harder to do correctly) or "red" loc-tite the cable to the propshaft, end of story..
Leaving a tiny (poor quality) cable loose in the hole is a great way to destroy the cable...
You also stated the "best" thing to do is replace the system... I disagree with that as well...
If I break a cable, I don't loose a prop I have a ton of work into... Not true when you switch to a wire or non-stepped cable... When you break a cable your prop goes to the bottom of the lake... Not an issue if your running $2 plastic props, I don't use $2 plastic props.. Changing it out, only makes it easier to maintain... A non-issue for myself... I'd rather keep my prop thanks... Everyone has their own opinions on this stuff, but like I said, this is an old system (octura has been doin it 30 years) and the method of installation has always been the same... We ain't breakin any ground here people...
This debate is as stupid as the water pick-up debate... I'll let my boats do the talkin instead of my typing finger...
wanna race?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=

[wparsons]

^^ 2mm isn't really enough room for cable shrink, you generally want the diameter of the stub shaft in space between the drive dog and strut.

I'd like to see your setup, on mine I had to pull the drive dog as far towards the threads as I could without taking it off the flat spot just to keep it from binding. Even now I have about 0.5 mm of space at best.

IMO, a one piece (non stepped) stub/flex is easier to maintain, and breaking a cable really isn't that big of an issue. The stock cable on this boat is WAY oversided for the power/load it's under.

As for the race, anytime :D Here's mine all stock with a plastic prop:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y4yCpkgAAsI

It's a bit faster now with the S/B x632 on it, still otherwise stock.

[igottalongone]

"you generally want the diameter of the stub shaft in space between the drive dog and strut."

Dude! really???

You do NOT want a 1/8" between your strut and dd...
I hope your running a thrust washer, if not your cable is trying to push the rotor through the back of your motor, lol...
Like I said, everyone has their opinion...
But, I don't think you even need to know anything about RC boats to know that leaving that tiny cable free to move around inside the prop shaft is a bad idea... But whatever...
Ron

[igottalongone]

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/inf...mble-shaft.php