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Thread: Thermal Issues with the New Traxxas Spartan

  1. #31
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    I'd try propping down to a 40mm prop and get a larger xl-sized cooling can that covers the entire length of that motor.

  2. #32
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    Poping the esc apart is not difficult, there's just a few tabs and then the heat sink is accessible and still able to be installed in the boat as far as I can tell.


    As far as the thermal resistor, I don't think there could be much done without knowing more about when the receiver decides to cut off, temp wise. I suppose knowing the stock cut off temp and the resistance of the stock resistor at temp, a resistor could be added to "fix" it. I was citing it more as a manufacturing tolerance that could have been overlooked, a replacement would be better.

    The purpose of a water jacket is to get water in contact with the motor. A jacket will allow water to contact more of the surface area of the motor than tubing. Perhaps the problem with the stock jacket is that it forces water to travel around the motor rather than allowing free-flow like a standard jacket.

    I also noticed that the motor I have has no end play. perhaps that is causing a bind?

    You probably want the batteries to be at the back of the tray to get the bow out of the water, as in the top pic.
    What Doug is talking about is the weight or trim tabs pushing the bow down with more hull in the water=more drag, bottom pic.


  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    I'd try propping down to a 40mm prop and get a larger xl-sized cooling can that covers the entire length of that motor.
    I wonder how much bite a prop that size would have on this size hull?
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  4. #34
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    Default Drive cable grease ????

    After reading all this I am wondering what kind of lube or grease is being used on the drive cable. The manual says " Lubricate the motor bearings with the light oil included with the model" Then says next paragraph "remove the drive cable and lubricate it with the light oil included with your model. Any light oil included for motor bearings would not be worth a darn for the drive cable. On 6s lipos the motor is turning some rpms and the flex needs a decent marine grease so it won't pull a bunch of amps and overheat the motor or ESC. What is the oil included ????? Traxxas should know better and newbs don't know. This is no sealed truck transmission driving wheels with bearings with little drag resistance on a hard surface. My two cents.

    Stringfly <>++++

  5. #35
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    In running the numbers, it seems in order to hit 30 with nimh, its got to be the motor kv you guys assumed at 1600kv or so, if thats the case, 6s is really to much. 5s would be better.
    Steven Vaccaro

    Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steven Vaccaro View Post
    In running the numbers, it seems in order to hit 30 with nimh, its got to be the motor kv you guys assumed at 1600kv or so, if thats the case, 6s is really to much. 5s would be better.

    with maybe a prop change on 5s, this boat may work very well
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by stringfly View Post
    After reading all this I am wondering what kind of lube or grease is being used on the drive cable. The manual says " Lubricate the motor bearings with the light oil included with the model" Then says next paragraph "remove the drive cable and lubricate it with the light oil included with your model. Any light oil included for motor bearings would not be worth a darn for the drive cable. On 6s lipos the motor is turning some rpms and the flex needs a decent marine grease so it won't pull a bunch of amps and overheat the motor or ESC. What is the oil included ????? Traxxas should know better and newbs don't know. This is no sealed truck transmission driving wheels with bearings with little drag resistance on a hard surface. My two cents.

    Stringfly <>++++
    right here buddy!
    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=dh-aqub9500
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brushless55 View Post

    with maybe a prop change on 5s, this boat may work very well
    On 5s you may be able to use the stock prop or a metal one of similar size. But its going to take some testing.
    Steven Vaccaro

    Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steven Vaccaro View Post
    In running the numbers, it seems in order to hit 30 with nimh, its got to be the motor kv you guys assumed at 1600kv or so, if thats the case, 6s is really to much. 5s would be better.
    The Traxxas spec page say's the motor is 1600kv. I'm probably never gonna run the boat on 6s personaly, but if get a new charger and some lipo packs i'd like to run 4s and 5s in it, sounds like that is gonna work like a charm!

  10. #40
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    I just cannot decide if I am going to cancel my order or not
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  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Checkmateguy01 View Post
    The Traxxas spec page say's the motor is 1600kv. I'm probably never gonna run the boat on 6s personaly, but if get a new charger and some lipo packs i'd like to run 4s and 5s in it, sounds like that is gonna work like a charm!
    Does the spec page say how many poles this motor is??
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  12. #42
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    Looks like the Spartan is going to be a 40mph boat if 5s is the safest to use, $400 + lipos is a very expensive boat for 40mph. Thanks Martin.

  13. #43
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    4S on this boat is as bad as the stock packs. It's perfect if you don't want to go faster than 30mph and want 10 minutes or so run time.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darin Jordan View Post
    Does the spec page say how many poles this motor is??
    Darin, I don't think Traxxas knows, but my guess is 2 pole
    I think is similar to other XVL motor
    Last edited by Brushless55; 01-20-2011 at 11:54 PM.
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  15. #45
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    This is what the Inside of the motor looks like. Im sure this guy knows how poles this motor is, lol



    So is the consensus to switch to a lower kv motor (leopard 1300kv) if we only want to run 6S?

  16. #46
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    yep, lower kv and run 6s
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  17. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by djmaincheese View Post
    This is what the Inside of the motor looks like. Im sure this guy knows how poles this motor is, lol

    So is the consensus to switch to a lower kv motor (leopard 1300kv) if we only want to run 6S?
    yep, it's a two pole, I love taking things apart

    not sure if it matters, but could the rotor balance be a problem

  18. #48
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    This is a start and it's not going to break the bank..

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CU2YUfJJ_M

  19. #49
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    I know not many would replace the esc or motor with original Traxxas ones if they had problems with either, But out of interest i asked the price of a spare motor & esc from the UK importer of this boat & couldnt believe the price. Motor £160, esc £220, I can buy the complete boat & radio for £355. Thanks Martin.

  20. #50
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    Exclamation

    Looking over videos and had a thought.
    Boats race clockwise, cars race counter clockwise, so most of the videos the boats are turning left.
    The fact that the pick-up is on the right side of the rudder in the low pressure cavitation side of the rudder turning left causing no flow in an already poorly flowing system.
    Looking at the Spartan front page vid, even in a shallow left turn the limited flow going off the left(right in the video) goes away.

    Gentlemen turn your boats to The Right

  21. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeoVW72 View Post
    Looking over videos and had a thought.
    Boats race clockwise, cars race counter clockwise, so most of the videos the boats are turning left.
    The fact that the pick-up is on the right side of the rudder in the low pressure cavitation side of the rudder turning left causing no flow in an already poorly flowing system.
    Looking at the Spartan front page vid, even in a shallow left turn the limited flow going off the left(right in the video) goes away.

    Gentlemen turn your boats to The Right
    While I know that sounds like a good theory, in practice, if the rudder is a wedge rudder, the water remains in contact with both sides of the rudder, even in the turns, so this isn't generally a problem. LOTs of rudders have the pickup on the "wrong" side, and have no issues with water flow.

    No one answered my question concerning the motor. How many poles is this motor?? Does it have any resistance or "cogging" when you rotate it by hand??
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  22. #52
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    It's a two pole, just one large slug for the rotor. not much cog, but you can tell where the poles are
    the balance of the rotor is terrible.



    might the force on the bearings also contribute to the heat?

  23. #53
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    The video is private?

    Not sure if this has been posted already, but according to the owner of the boat the ESC went up in flames on the second run...

    Last edited by GP73; 01-21-2011 at 12:23 AM.

  24. #54
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    If this is a 2-pole motor, then it's simply the wrong motor for the application. NO TORQUE. It's an airplane or car motor...

    Need to prop it way down and even then, it's going to build some heat, just like the Nemesis, Ammo, Faigo, etc., have always done.

    A boat like this needs at least a 4-pole. All of the AQ and ProBoat stuff, except for the Widowmaker and really small stuff, uses 6-pole motors, which have proven to be reliable, and fast, workhorses, especially for their size.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  25. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeoVW72 View Post
    It's a two pole, just one large slug for the rotor. not much cog, but you can tell where the poles are
    the balance of the rotor is terrible.



    might the force on the bearings also contribute to the heat?
    Holly crap that's bad
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  26. #56
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    Looks like this may be the trick to keeping the stock components cool...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2FODuwKjIE

  27. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by djmaincheese View Post
    Looks like this may be the trick to keeping the stock components cool...

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2FODuwKjIE
    I think an extra water pick up would work better than splitting the single line with the y conector. So you have better flo still to the motor & esc with 2 completely separate lines each with their own pick ups. Thanks Martin.

  28. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by martin View Post
    I think an extra water pick up would work better than splitting the single line with the y conector. So you have better flo still to the motor & esc with 2 completely separate lines each with their own pick ups. Thanks Martin.
    I agree with Martin... Splitting a single supply of water to two components like that isn't helping much. You need to double the supply, not split the existing one, even if it's slightly improved.

    Is the MOTOR in these actually getting hot, or is it just the ESC? What kind of temps are people recording?

    Run the water through the ESC FIRST, then to the motor, would also make sense.

    Pick up an AquaCraft SV27R water pickup or similiar and add it on as a second source of water.

    Still all just bandaids to the real problem, but should help a little.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  29. #59
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    I agree that a second pickup should be the first place to start.
    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80410

    I do not agree that the motor needs to be switched out at this point. Of course it can and will make a difference, but for those that do not want to spend the money, try changing the cooling and the when trying 6s I would not run huge mah packs. The longer you run, the higher the heat build up.
    Steven Vaccaro

    Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!

  30. #60
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    How good are these silicon jackets over the aluminium ones that gives more heat disipation with aluminium ones purly through better conductivety of heat. Ive got one of these silicon jackets that was fitted to a leopard 4074 motor, All be it a different make to the Traxxas one. Ive not run this motor or cooler so cant coment on useing it but looking at the design of the internal water ways its very restricted in as much as that it has several quite small water channels molded in to it. Its not just one big open area inside the jacket as aluminium ones are + silicon dosnt disipate heat very well. I definately wouldnt buy a silicon jacket over an alloy one. Thanks Martin.

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