I'd try propping down to a 40mm prop and get a larger xl-sized cooling can that covers the entire length of that motor.
I'd try propping down to a 40mm prop and get a larger xl-sized cooling can that covers the entire length of that motor.
Poping the esc apart is not difficult, there's just a few tabs and then the heat sink is accessible and still able to be installed in the boat as far as I can tell.
As far as the thermal resistor, I don't think there could be much done without knowing more about when the receiver decides to cut off, temp wise. I suppose knowing the stock cut off temp and the resistance of the stock resistor at temp, a resistor could be added to "fix" it. I was citing it more as a manufacturing tolerance that could have been overlooked, a replacement would be better.
The purpose of a water jacket is to get water in contact with the motor. A jacket will allow water to contact more of the surface area of the motor than tubing. Perhaps the problem with the stock jacket is that it forces water to travel around the motor rather than allowing free-flow like a standard jacket.
I also noticed that the motor I have has no end play. perhaps that is causing a bind?
You probably want the batteries to be at the back of the tray to get the bow out of the water, as in the top pic.
What Doug is talking about is the weight or trim tabs pushing the bow down with more hull in the water=more drag, bottom pic.
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
After reading all this I am wondering what kind of lube or grease is being used on the drive cable. The manual says " Lubricate the motor bearings with the light oil included with the model" Then says next paragraph "remove the drive cable and lubricate it with the light oil included with your model. Any light oil included for motor bearings would not be worth a darn for the drive cable. On 6s lipos the motor is turning some rpms and the flex needs a decent marine grease so it won't pull a bunch of amps and overheat the motor or ESC. What is the oil included ????? Traxxas should know better and newbs don't know. This is no sealed truck transmission driving wheels with bearings with little drag resistance on a hard surface. My two cents.
Stringfly <>++++
In running the numbers, it seems in order to hit 30 with nimh, its got to be the motor kv you guys assumed at 1600kv or so, if thats the case, 6s is really to much. 5s would be better.
Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
right here buddy!
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...od=dh-aqub9500
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
I just cannot decide if I am going to cancel my order or not
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
Looks like the Spartan is going to be a 40mph boat if 5s is the safest to use, $400 + lipos is a very expensive boat for 40mph. Thanks Martin.
4S on this boat is as bad as the stock packs. It's perfect if you don't want to go faster than 30mph and want 10 minutes or so run time.
Last edited by Brushless55; 01-20-2011 at 11:54 PM.
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
This is what the Inside of the motor looks like. Im sure this guy knows how poles this motor is, lol
So is the consensus to switch to a lower kv motor (leopard 1300kv) if we only want to run 6S?
yep, lower kv and run 6s
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
This is a start and it's not going to break the bank..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CU2YUfJJ_M
I know not many would replace the esc or motor with original Traxxas ones if they had problems with either, But out of interest i asked the price of a spare motor & esc from the UK importer of this boat & couldnt believe the price. Motor £160, esc £220, I can buy the complete boat & radio for £355. Thanks Martin.
Looking over videos and had a thought.
Boats race clockwise, cars race counter clockwise, so most of the videos the boats are turning left.
The fact that the pick-up is on the right side of the rudder in the low pressure cavitation side of the rudder turning left causing no flow in an already poorly flowing system.
Looking at the Spartan front page vid, even in a shallow left turn the limited flow going off the left(right in the video) goes away.
Gentlemen turn your boats to The Right
While I know that sounds like a good theory, in practice, if the rudder is a wedge rudder, the water remains in contact with both sides of the rudder, even in the turns, so this isn't generally a problem. LOTs of rudders have the pickup on the "wrong" side, and have no issues with water flow.
No one answered my question concerning the motor. How many poles is this motor?? Does it have any resistance or "cogging" when you rotate it by hand??
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
It's a two pole, just one large slug for the rotor. not much cog, but you can tell where the poles are
the balance of the rotor is terrible.
might the force on the bearings also contribute to the heat?
The video is private?
Not sure if this has been posted already, but according to the owner of the boat the ESC went up in flames on the second run...
Last edited by GP73; 01-21-2011 at 12:23 AM.
If this is a 2-pole motor, then it's simply the wrong motor for the application. NO TORQUE. It's an airplane or car motor...
Need to prop it way down and even then, it's going to build some heat, just like the Nemesis, Ammo, Faigo, etc., have always done.
A boat like this needs at least a 4-pole. All of the AQ and ProBoat stuff, except for the Widowmaker and really small stuff, uses 6-pole motors, which have proven to be reliable, and fast, workhorses, especially for their size.
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Looks like this may be the trick to keeping the stock components cool...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2FODuwKjIE
I agree with Martin... Splitting a single supply of water to two components like that isn't helping much. You need to double the supply, not split the existing one, even if it's slightly improved.
Is the MOTOR in these actually getting hot, or is it just the ESC? What kind of temps are people recording?
Run the water through the ESC FIRST, then to the motor, would also make sense.
Pick up an AquaCraft SV27R water pickup or similiar and add it on as a second source of water.
Still all just bandaids to the real problem, but should help a little.
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
I agree that a second pickup should be the first place to start.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-80410
I do not agree that the motor needs to be switched out at this point. Of course it can and will make a difference, but for those that do not want to spend the money, try changing the cooling and the when trying 6s I would not run huge mah packs. The longer you run, the higher the heat build up.
Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
How good are these silicon jackets over the aluminium ones that gives more heat disipation with aluminium ones purly through better conductivety of heat. Ive got one of these silicon jackets that was fitted to a leopard 4074 motor, All be it a different make to the Traxxas one. Ive not run this motor or cooler so cant coment on useing it but looking at the design of the internal water ways its very restricted in as much as that it has several quite small water channels molded in to it. Its not just one big open area inside the jacket as aluminium ones are + silicon dosnt disipate heat very well. I definately wouldnt buy a silicon jacket over an alloy one. Thanks Martin.
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