Hey, any word on the Motley Crew ETA?
Hey, any word on the Motley Crew ETA?
Just wanted to post my experience today with the Traxxas Spartan. It was really the first time I have gotten to run it. Let me state the only things I have modified on my boat is the rudder itself. I opened up the inlet hole and I opened up the outlet nipple on the end of the rudder. And I changed out the stock TRX (are they rated at 30 amps?) connectors to 4mm gold bullets rated at 93A. Also sharpened the rudder and turn fins.
It was about 40 degrees outside here in TN & raining a little. I used the stock NiMH packs first. I had no issues with heat on the motor or ESC. They were cold.
My next test was with 2 Hyperion G3 EX 45C 3S 5000mAh packs. I ran a few laps 1-1.5mins and checked temps. it was cold. Then went and ran the boat for about 7mins. No problems. I checked the temps. The motor and ESC were still cool. I drove the boat like I always drive. Just sport driving having fun. I made lots of WOT straight runs for 4 seconds or so then slow and turn. But I never spend most of my time at WOT doing pass after pass after pass till the batteries are drained. I wonder if thats what some are doing not knowing any better?
Later today I went back and GPS the boat it was about low mid 40's. I also ran it hard for about 2 mins with lots of WOT running trying to get the temp up. then brought it in and immediately shot a temp reading. it was 81 degrees F.
I know I can get more speed out of the boat. i just need to adjust battery placement and adjust the strut angle and get a little more of the hull out of the water. 50mph isnt a far stretch on a good day.
Oh and I guess I should mention after modding the rudder I think the higher flow of water is posing a problem for the silicon water jacket on the motor. Because at lower speeds I see a steady stream of water coming out of the outlet on the side. when I am going 3/4 to full throttle I dont see it much at all. but there is a bunch of water inside the hull (a cup or more). I suspect the motor jacket is leaking when i go fast. Im not 100% sure but its a theory. but water was sprayed all on the underside of the canopy. I did set the boat in the tub for a half hour to check for leaks before hand and just a little (1/2 teaspoon) came in around the hole going out of the transom for the stuffing tube.
Last edited by JPriami; 01-25-2011 at 10:30 PM.
Land, Sea & Air, A true RC Addict.
the water spray you see i guess is from the prop shaft not the cooling jacket
and whey you run full speed the water stream is harder to see because the boat is going 40+mph and is no longer a stream but broken up by the 40mph wind
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
water spray from the prop shaft inside the boat? really? interesting
Land, Sea & Air, A true RC Addict.
I doubt a cup or more.
If you want to find out for sure, fill and pressurize the water system with a syringe.
My guess is the jacket is leaking when you approach 50 just like the silicone jackets do.
Doug
MODEL BOAT RACER
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you could be right maybe not more than a cup meaning a measuring cup or .25 qrt. but I bet it wasnt far from it after running for that 7 mins. it was shocking.
damn that syringe idea is good. thanks. ive been trying to fig out a way to pressurize it. I was going to use my fuel pump to my planes or something.
Land, Sea & Air, A true RC Addict.
MODEL BOAT RACER
IMPBA President
District 13 Director 2011- present
IMPBA National Records Director 2009-2019
IMPBA 19887L CD
NAMBA 1169
just blow throught the line off the rudder and you will find the leak
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=
"And I changed out the stock TRX (are they rated at 30 amps?) connectors to 4mm gold bullets rated at 93A. "
Not a good idea. The bullet connectors do not have the surface area of the TRX connectors. Actually, the total surface contact area of the TRX and Deans is just about the same. That means you will burn up something in the boat before you have a problem with the connectors. Try bursting over 100 amps.
Castle has some bullet connects that they recommend for their motors but remember they have three connectors there vice two for the TRX and Deans. Also, the Castle bullet connectors are NOT the banana type. Most all of the bullet connectors out there are bullet type so you actually have to worry about three pieces making full contact, which they don't.
I just got confused: Are you saying that deans and traxxas plugs are better then CC bullets? You changed to 4mm but you are you saying that wasn't a good idea?
* The traxxas connectors and deans connectors are pure junk. Most of my setups will destroy those other connectors so quick it wouldn't be funny. I will stick to Bullets 5.5mm or higher! Also deans/traxxas will get so hot they will de-solder. There is reason why the majority of the people here don't use trx and deans plugs... Simply put they can't hang in most FE setups. I think if you continue to use trx and deans plugs it's only a matter of time before you will find the problems...
take a close look at a used trx conector and you will see what the real contact area.
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
Bullet connectors especially the banana type do not have the surface contact area of the Deans or Traxxas.
Second why change if the connectors are not getting hot or even warm. In my boat the wires are warming before while the connectors are cooler.
Third, I have not seen any testing that shows that banana connectors are more efficient.
But use whatever you want.
and about most of us on these forums use bullet connectors because they are so superior
and deans suck for high amp FE boats!
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
A search on the web will show that not all sites rate connectors exactly the same. But in general you will find:
Deans Ultra - Rated 75 - 85 amps continuous
Traxxas - Never seen an official rating, but usually shown as around 100 amps continuous
EC5 - Rated at 120 amps continuous
6 mm bullets - rated at up to 200 amps continuous.
If the 4mm bullets used are indeed rated at 93 amps you don't really gain anything over the TRX connectors rated at 100, but for all intents and purposes are the same as TRX, and should work fine.
Kevin
WOW, all I can say is good luck. I think being focused on "surface area" has clouded your judgment. In Car/Planes?Heli's those plugs are fine, but in boating it's only a matter of time before you will find the problem with those plugs. Like mentioned before there IS a reason seasoned and race vets don't use those plugs. All your information you need is on the web and prob on this site. Just use the search function at the top of the page.
Horizon makes the EC5 but does not give it a rating that I can find. (Does not mean you are not correct. I just can't find where they rate it.)
Both the Traxxas and the Deans have about the same contact area so I would expect them to perform the same. From my use that seems about correct. But no I would not use them for 100 amps continuous. If I really loved them I would use two.
Take a look at the bullet connectors that Castle sells. They are not banana connectors. That is my objection to some bullet connectors. You have the male the female and around the male a collar. That makes two contact areas that must be right versus one for the TRX or Deans. The Castle bullet connectors eliminates that.
BTW for those that cry about taking Deans apart just dimple the outside after doing the soldering. Also, solder the Deans while the male and female are plugged together. Some people have slightly melted the case while soldering and that is what causes them to be tight. It also makes for a less efficient connection.
Finally, look up Deoxit (used to maintain connectors). The contacts need to be maintained. Deans has been around for 20 years and surely some of those connections need cleaning.
Finally, back to subject. I do hope that just enlarging the rudder, nipple, and outlet it enough to cool the Spartan. I am planning on new tubing and the new cooling jacket. If not destroyed already. Not sure after my last lake run it over heated.
Ec5 are coservetively rated at 120 I use them on a cc2200 kv with a t180 on a df29 spinning a x646 which draws a high amp load and haven't seem a problem yet I bought tons of them when they first came out and wouldn't stay in stock at my lhs but once I do see a problem I'll move up to cc 6.5s as I've been pretty impressed with there motors durability
Bro I hope to build a (50cc) brushless 88" Edge 540 soon on 10s, and I will be using bullets for that one!
something close to 3500watts
http://www.aero-works.net/store/detail.aspx?ID=378
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
SICK BRO... I need some flying skills. You would think being in aviation I would be able to fly... Not so much. First flight this year I crashed lol....
50cc ..... need a motor?!? http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=14426
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