I don't think there is a bind, I can spin both prop shafts very easy between two fingers when not connected to the motors.
I don't think there is a bind, I can spin both prop shafts very easy between two fingers when not connected to the motors.
Dont be frightened to swap the escs over and see what warms up ..
if the same side still overheats..then swap the motors..
same side still warmer .. logically next thing to check would be prop differences
drive trains if free rarely offer a notable variance in temps
spinning between fingers is indicative, but not deterministic
Whilst reading this thread I noted you said motors do not synchronously spool up from standstill .. do you have a Y mixer widget to aid steer by altering prop speeds?
If your rudder is offset on trim to centralize the rudder.. voila'
W
Wayne Schutte PhdCSE BaSE BaEE. Australian, & damn proud of it YOUTUBE
@ 36" H&M Maritmo twin1512/1800 6S1P 88mph @ 40" drag hydro#1 twin 5692 12S1P .....always for fun @
I agree with Wayne on the props. There are no 2 props molded out the same even though they are the same series.
Another thing I caught was that the one motor lost its' prop and shaft assembly. This could have caused an over rev so to speak of the one motor and possibly doing a bit of internal damage to that particular motor causing the one ESC and motor to run hotter than the other one.
JMO of course,,,,,,,,,,,,
I'm not afraid to swap the ESCs. I just haven't gotten around to it because the boat has been out of commission due to losing the prop.
However after doing this cooling mod I am satisfied with the temps. So one is running hotter, as long as its not damaging then it doesn't bother me.
The ESC was heating up before the loss of the prop, it has not been run since.
I'm not using a mixer. Both ESCs are controlled by the RX which has 2 throttle ports.
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