I am very happy with the turnigy 180 so far, have tried 2 etti 150 too, but burnt them quickly.........
yes the issue with the swordfish 200 and 240 (the 120 is fine) is quite annoying at high speeds and in racing where accurate control of the boat is important
have exchanged some e-mails and what they recommend is receiver far from esc, and separate receiver battery. already did this but no change.
Twin Cat 135, Sprintcat40 (single-twin), DF 35", Maritimo, Mean Machine, SV 27
http://www.rcfastboats.com/
H&M Intruder S twin Leopard 36/74/3270 @ 3S-HIFEI 200A
MHZ mystic 114-TP4050 5D-HIFEI 240A hv ESC- @ 2 x 5S
BANDIT S"love boat" LEHNER POWERED.. RCFASTBOATS.GR MINI COOPER CAT
I think I remember your post, and then removed the cooling plate and added silicon on the edges. Also added epoxy on the electric boards and cable ends around it. And a small story.....in a recent race my boat was hit by another boat on the sides and had two holes (cat), which I did not see. I continued the race and after 3 rounds the rudder was glitching, I brought the boat in removed the tapes and about 2 liters (0.5 gallon) of sea water was in there!!! Nothing happened on the esc (T 180) because of this waterproofing method and bullet connectors also sealed
Twin Cat 135, Sprintcat40 (single-twin), DF 35", Maritimo, Mean Machine, SV 27
http://www.rcfastboats.com/
Mini Cat Racing USA
www.minicatracingusa.com
Here is an easy alternate that works for me. I use a hot glue gun and go over all the electrical connections and servo connection where they mount to the control board include the caps. I have found this method both to be waterproof and also easy to remove the hot glue in case you want to re-solder any of the leads.
Secret is good hot wax stick and the gun really hot. I take nothing apart. If something fails, it is easy to just pull off the hot wax and it looks totally original. If you use epoxy or silicon it is a dead give away that you "modified" the ESC.
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