Swordfish or Seaking?

[Kevinlei324]

this says it all..... GREAT esc's... if Markf uses them in SAW events they must be good... I have a bunch of them and guess I'll continue buying them... in fact I just sold Tiqueman 2 etti 150's brand new with 2 runs on them..... I sold them for just enough money to cover two turnigy 180's to replace them... I was losing my patience changing programing and the turnigys program box is super nice setup...

wow.. This Seaking 180 Craze is worst than I thought...

I was going to ask whether I should buy 3: one for my current setup, and two for my future twin setup... I guess I can predict what you guys will say. xD

[DISAR]

I am very happy with the turnigy 180 so far, have tried 2 etti 150 too, but burnt them quickly.........
yes the issue with the swordfish 200 and 240 (the 120 is fine) is quite annoying at high speeds and in racing where accurate control of the boat is important
have exchanged some e-mails and what they recommend is receiver far from esc, and separate receiver battery. already did this but no change.

[Chilli]

both are good for your setup, yes check the space available. Have tested both escs, my swordfish 200A has an issue, it does not slow down the boat immediately there is some delay. I prefer the Turnigy 180, easier to totally waterproof as well.

The T-180 although a great controller is not totally waterproof. Ask me how I know.

[DINO7]

I actually found I had the same problem... It lags for 2 seconds (ish).

same here for 200A. lag 1-2 sec to cut down is very dangerous.we need a updated software for 200 s.

[DISAR]

The T-180 although a great controller is not totally waterproof. Ask me how I know.

I think I remember your post, and then removed the cooling plate and added silicon on the edges. Also added epoxy on the electric boards and cable ends around it. And a small story.....in a recent race my boat was hit by another boat on the sides and had two holes (cat), which I did not see. I continued the race and after 3 rounds the rudder was glitching, I brought the boat in removed the tapes and about 2 liters (0.5 gallon) of sea water was in there!!! Nothing happened on the esc (T 180) because of this waterproofing method and bullet connectors also sealed

[Kevinlei324]

I think I remember your post, and then removed the cooling plate and added silicon on the edges. Also added epoxy on the electric boards and cable ends around it. And a small story.....in a recent race my boat was hit by another boat on the sides and had two holes (cat), which I did not see. I continued the race and after 3 rounds the rudder was glitching, I brought the boat in removed the tapes and about 2 liters (0.5 gallon) of sea water was in there!!! Nothing happened on the esc (T 180) because of this waterproofing method and bullet connectors also sealed

So, the servo was toast?

I was thinking that when I get my seeking 180, I would just seal all the edges with epoxy and cover any exposed electronics. I never imagined I would have to remove the cooling plate and whatnot...

[sailr]

I don't cut or remove the red wire! I use a short servo extension and cut THAT red wire. That way your original ESC lead stays untouched!

no difference at all... but if you just pull it out of the connector you can reinstall it later with no soldering, and in a snap... 2 seconds....... let say you are running 4-6s in a hotter setup with plenty of room in the boat for a rxr pack.... then you use the same esc in a much smaller hull on only 4s you may want to use the internal bec again for space issues and because you are running the lower, bec safe, voltage :) so its nice to plug the wire back in for different applications..

[sailr]

Can you set a soft brake on that esc? That might help.

I actually found I had the same problem... It lags for 2 seconds (ish).

[Chilli]

I think I remember your post, and then removed the cooling plate and added silicon on the edges. Also added epoxy on the electric boards and cable ends around it. And a small story.....in a recent race my boat was hit by another boat on the sides and had two holes (cat), which I did not see. I continued the race and after 3 rounds the rudder was glitching, I brought the boat in removed the tapes and about 2 liters (0.5 gallon) of sea water was in there!!! Nothing happened on the esc (T 180) because of this waterproofing method and bullet connectors also sealed

Cool. I'll try sealing if I get another one. My hull flooded and the controller was totally submerged for serval minutes. I tried to use it the following heat and that was a big mistake. The nitro guys got a nice show though.

[questtek]

Here is an easy alternate that works for me. I use a hot glue gun and go over all the electrical connections and servo connection where they mount to the control board include the caps. I have found this method both to be waterproof and also easy to remove the hot glue in case you want to re-solder any of the leads.

[Kevinlei324]

Here is an easy alternate that works for me. I use a hot glue gun and go over all the electrical connections and servo connection where they mount to the control board include the caps. I have found this method both to be waterproof and also easy to remove the hot glue in case you want to re-solder any of the leads.

that's a pretty good idea. Do you take anything apart, or do you just go over all the gaps? I'm afraid of damaging the circuit if I took it apart myself to apply glue or epoxy..

[questtek]

Secret is good hot wax stick and the gun really hot. I take nothing apart. If something fails, it is easy to just pull off the hot wax and it looks totally original. If you use epoxy or silicon it is a dead give away that you "modified" the ESC.

[Kevinlei324]

Secret is good hot wax stick and the gun really hot. I take nothing apart. If something fails, it is easy to just pull off the hot wax and it looks totally original. If you use epoxy or silicon it is a dead give away that you "modified" the ESC.