Swordfish 200 or Seaking 180?
I'm powering a Leopard 4074 on 4s2p.
What would you guys use?
Any other opinions welcome!
Thanks.
Swordfish 200 or Seaking 180?
I'm powering a Leopard 4074 on 4s2p.
What would you guys use?
Any other opinions welcome!
Thanks.
all i know is I love my seaking zero issues lol
I don't know about the swordfish either., been waiting to here of folks who have tried them.... but I have 6 tunigy/seaking 180's.... love em' super easy to program with or without the program box... but I use the program box only cause I have so many of the 180's... highly highly recommend the seaking 180's..
you can use the internal bec on 4s.... but to be honest I run rxr packs in all my boats... the esc runs cooler without using the integrated bec, and its just literally habit now for me...
I'm new to this BEC rxr stuff... How is that set up? Do you just cut off the middle BEC wire from the ESC and plug that into the throttle slot on the receiver?
If it's easier, can you please post some pics or links on how this is set up? I would like to reduce the stress on my ESC...
The best thing for the esc, and easiest thing to do is- go to your receiver plug on the esc. Pull the red wire from the harness. Now you can plug a receiver pack like you'd use in a nitro car or truck, and plug it into the batt terminal on the receiver. This way your esc isn't trying to power the RX and servo, just the motor.
The BEC on a esc can work, but can be unreliable and leave you stranded if it fails.
I'm more afraid of my boat flipping over than failing... lol I made a rescue boat from an old brushed boat...
Oh wow... That's... not hard at all.
So, let me make sure I'm getting this right... I want to make sure it's that simple and I'm not going to screw up my ESC. You just gotta plug the BEC to "Throttle" on the receiver, snip the red wire, get a receiver pack and plug that into the "Battery" on the receiver?
Dont ever "cut" the red wire.No need to.Just unplug it.And your boat flipping should be the last of your worries.Its kind of the nature of the hobby sometimes if you want to go really fast.
Does anyone know where I can order a Seaking 180 now? Steve is sold out, and on ebay, the closest place I can order it from is Australia and Hong Kong...
HobbyKing carries an this...
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=8937
Is this the same as the Seaking? They call it Turnigy, and the weight is the same: 165g.
But under the "Free Shipping" banner under the description, it says 273g...
I think SeaKing is the original and Turnigy is a re-brand.And www.hobbyhot.com has them also.I got mine from them from china to Missouri in 4 days.
I figured, but I started this thread because I'm looking to REPLACE the ESC I just fried.
I JUST finished my first boat, and we ran out of hatch tape. My dad insisted on Duct-tape (please, no comments. I know it's absolutely, unspeakable retarded)...
On top of that, winds were at 15+ mph. Waves were high. It flipped, and we had to wait for it to drift back. By the time it was back, the hull was FLOODED. Servo is fine. So's the receiver (MR3000). Motor worked fine too (I tried it with my car's ESC.) But the ESC was toast.
Side question:
When I first got my motor, Leopard 4074, the shaft was difficult to turn. But after It got wet, it became noticeably easier. Is this just because that happens in general after a run, or did I toast my motor too?
I took my motor apart to dry it. I also didn't notice this before, but when I push on the shaft now, it sticks out the back (a little).
Last edited by Kevinlei324; 11-30-2010 at 08:19 PM. Reason: typooo
no difference at all... but if you just pull it out of the connector you can reinstall it later with no soldering, and in a snap... 2 seconds....... let say you are running 4-6s in a hotter setup with plenty of room in the boat for a rxr pack.... then you use the same esc in a much smaller hull on only 4s you may want to use the internal bec again for space issues and because you are running the lower, bec safe, voltage :) so its nice to plug the wire back in for different applications..
take a paperclip or very small straight edge screwdrive and push down on the metal "finger" you can see on the red wire thats sitting in the plug... press down real gentle so you don't break it off or bend it severely and pull on the wire til it slips out, presto.... now tape it back with some electrical tape to the other wires to make it look nice and clean... when you need it for use it will ber right there ready for action.
I have used both the Swordfish 200 or Seaking 180 on a Leopard 4074 with 4s1p in a JAE rigger. The Seaking was a pain to use as the size and layout was not very well suited to the JAE, it worked fine and I pushed it to 150+ A without issue. It did get warm, but was fine. The Swordfish fits MUCH better in the JAE and I have pushed it harder and it keeps its cool better. Since they are about the same price go with the one that would fit best in your boat. I would say Seaking for mono's or hydro boats, the Swordfish for the rigger boats. I do feel the Swordfish is a better unit overall, and I like the USB programming as well.
both are good for your setup, yes check the space available. Have tested both escs, my swordfish 200A has an issue, it does not slow down the boat immediately there is some delay. I prefer the Turnigy 180, easier to totally waterproof as well.
Twin Cat 135, Sprintcat40 (single-twin), DF 35", Maritimo, Mean Machine, SV 27
http://www.rcfastboats.com/
I am using the same combination, Seaking 180 powering a Leopard 4074 (2200kv) on 4s2p in three different boats: Mean Machine, Pursuit mono, Insane Hydro and 30" Cat Airboat and have never had a single issue with any of the set ups. I use the internal BEC to keep things simple yet push the boats to the limits. The system worked out so well I am finishing setting up another Mean Machine with a dual system with the same Motor/ESC combo.
I run my insane hydro with the Neu 1527 1D motor on 4s and the seaking 180 using the internal BEC. I also used this controller at the saw event with no problems with a very hot set up. The controller only has to power up 1 servo so its fine. I would use seperate bec if using 5 or 6s lipos.
Mark
Nothing wrong with the bec on both of these units. The 180 is much easier to use with the program box and the throttle is nice and smooth. I have used both and they both are good units for the price.
If all of your wishes are granted, many of your dreams will be destroyed!
Kevin - I've ordered from Alex here a couple times and received it in 3 or 4 days (USA based). He just recently started carrying the 180's.
http://www.valuehobby.com/products.php?category_id=27
Are you planning to set up twins???
LOL. That's EXACTLY what my next project is!! Mean Machine twin! You HAVE to post some pics!
Question:
When you set up a twin version of an existing "single" motor boat, would the amp draw be less for each motor if everything else is kept consisting (like prop, hull, etc)?
If price was not an option, which esc would you guys get?
I just might start saving up for one...
Last edited by Kevinlei324; 12-01-2010 at 08:55 PM. Reason: addition
this says it all..... GREAT esc's... if Markf uses them in SAW events they must be good... I have a bunch of them and guess I'll continue buying them... in fact I just sold Tiqueman 2 etti 150's brand new with 2 runs on them..... I sold them for just enough money to cover two turnigy 180's to replace them... I was losing my patience changing programing and the turnigys program box is super nice setup...
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