proboat electronics worhtless??

[GP73]

HK, $50 plus shipping, just make sure you set a notification when they have it in stock.

Or in alternative you can buy the Swordfish 120A here on OSE, not as cheap but good enough.

tell me where i can get a seaking 120 for 55 bucks pls ...i need one lol

[Doby]

Looks like hobie and roadrash "have left the building"on this topic.....

[Doby]

GP,,,keep your Stilletto wet side down.

You don't need to replace the caps....leave them where they are and add new ones to the main power wires and you should be good to go!

Besides, didn't you just buy a new tunnel...now you have 2.

[GP73]

I knew this was coming...

Depends on how good you sealed it!

My sentiment is that they could shave at least $20+ bucks off the STLO ESC and still make money... I'm sure they will in few months anyway like they did for the BJ/MG ESC.

Then I'll buy one.

How many times can you "dunk" the Seaking???

[GP73]

I did replace caps, the ESC didn't start, I think I fried it good with that stupid Feigao.

(EDIT: I've fried another Suppo 70A with that motor before cluing in )

I should have read more about the motor before using it with the stock ESC, I totally deserved it.

As for keeping the wet side down... no problems, there is no wet side anymore, not until spring anyway...

Sigh.

GP,,,keep your Stilletto wet side down.

You don't need to replace the caps....leave them where they are and add new ones to the main power wires and you should be good to go!

Besides, didn't you just buy a new tunnel...now you have 2.

[befu]

If these components were all rated in the same unit of measurement, with mins and max listings, it would be much simpler to match them. Instead, we have to know a bunch of conversion formulas to insure a safe combination of batteries, ESC and motors and of course, we have to know that different sized props can change the amp draw.

Let's see batteries are rated with volts and mAh, number of cells, and another fun number the "C" factor or discharge rate. Motors are in KV, ESC are rated in AMPS running and burst, but the motor can draw only to power it thinks it needs for the power source for a given task, and it can kill itself or the ESC by demanding more power than it can take. So, I have to be smarter than the motor and ESC. That's a problem!
<... shortened quite a bit...>

Who the heck thought of this? Thank you
Boomer

Wow! Writing like that you could be an engineer!!!! Oh, and that is pretty much who came up with stuff like that. Engineers and scientist.

Ohm is a unit of resistance
Amps is a measurement of current, or coulombs per second, not power
volts is a measurement of electrical potential. One volt across one ohm of resistance will produce one amp!
None of these are energy or power, but are components of it.

energy is capable of doing work and electrical energy is measured in watt-hours or 3.6 Joules I believe.

Electrical power is one volt flowing at one amp is 1 watt of power. Since our ESC's simulate 3 phase power, on the motor side of the ESC you also get into effective power, but I do not want to make this complicated.
Basically, power is the rate at which energy is consumed or used.

OK, those are the basics and are basically laws, you can not change the units on them as they are all different items. It would be like calling a cow, bike and mountain the same thing to make it easier.

Now, the motors are different stuff. There are some tutorials on here that help to explain it much better than I could in a single post, plus I would probably make mistakes or have to go back and read it again or just plagarize, non of which is very good.

I agree, it is very confusing and it isn't done to try to get new people, but you are dealing with complicated design items that can not be simplified. I had a professor in college that said people typically over complicate things, or try to simplify them to the point that they are just wrong.

before you start modifying items, take some time and do some studying. It is not easy, but once you learn the knowledge, you will really enjoy the design portion of the hobby much more! It really is fun stuff.

Go ahead and spend the time reading, you will find out that you really are much smarter than an esc and motor!

And yes I am a mechanical engineer. Try living that life, it ain't easy being an engineer out in the social circles!

Brian

[Doby]

Bahh....Mechanical Engineer trying to teach us about electronics.....go design a bridge

[7500RPM]

Bahh....Mechanical Engineer trying to teach us about electronics.....go design a bridge

Google Calgary's Peace Bride what a joke!

[bwells]

That appears to be a very long span! I guess if you drive across it, you will hope the engineer knew his stuff.

[LiPo Power]

Me too


[QUOTE=GP73;260052]I knew this was coming...

[LiPo Power]

If I dunk my PB ESC and it wont work after that, will the warranty cover the repair?

How many times can you "dunk" the Seaking???

[Darin Jordan]

If I dunk my PB ESC and it wont work after that, will the warranty cover the repair?

Don't know... you'll have to call ProBoat....

[roadrashracing]

Looks like hobie and roadrash "have left the building"on this topic.....

I just dropped the idea, if you are looking for pb electronics there are some good deals out there, if you are looking sell, you might as well keep it. I sold a nip speedcontrol for $40 shipped and that was posint for a while, I've seen a combo that a guy has on ebay for a few weeks and a $100 is not taking it home.

[ron1950]

seems to be a market for the 60a esc but noone is selling that i can find.....

[JackBlack26]

Befu, that was very well explained. I have been an electrician for 15
years and could not of explained it any better.

My main concern with the PB electronics is the usage of small calliber wires. The MG motor uses 18 gauge wire and the ESC wires are no bigger. I have been told to put 5mm connectors on the motor leads but all that will do is creat a hot spot as energy can not flow past those connectors any faster than a 3mm bullet set due to the wire gauge resistance, of the small wire. Energy will basically "bunch up" at the connector creating a hot spot. We see this a lot in electrical panels, on breakers that ate bolted in place with screws that are too small or being over drawn.

Asides from that, the amount of solder needed to attach a 5mm bullet to an 18 gauge wire will create even more resistance than necessary, specifically if it has lead in it.

But I will add the caps to the power wires and the resister to the positive lead to ease the flow of initial energy to the stock caps, hopefully helping the ESC last longer.

[Diesel6401]

I just dropped the idea, if you are looking for pb electronics there are some good deals out there, if you are looking sell, you might as well keep it. I sold a nip speedcontrol for $40 shipped and that was posint for a while, I've seen a combo that a guy has on ebay for a few weeks and a $100 is not taking it home.

The market is simply over saturated, just like with the SV's. For a long time at any given day their was like 4 or 5 sv's for sale just here on OSE, people couldn't give them away does that mean the SV is junk? Your OP is bashing PB electrics, when it's not the fault of PB. They made a great product a lot of people on here of had them and used them and know what they can do so we move on to the next and sell. I just sold a motor last month for around $35 because that's what is was worth because of the market no fault of PB just a lot of people trying to sell at the same time.

[Darin Jordan]

I have been told to put 5mm connectors on the motor leads but all that will do is create a hot spot as energy can not flow past those connectors any faster than a 3mm bullet set due to wire gauge resistance. Asides from that, the amount of solder needed to attach a 5mm bullet to an 18 huge wire will create even more resistance than necessary.

I'm going to just politely disagree with this premise... The bottom line, from many years of experience with these exact systems, is that adding larger connectors to any of these RTR systems keeps them from melting off the small contacts. It provides more heat-sink area and dissipates the heat much better. Plain and simple... IT WORKS!

As for the wire gauge and contact sizes... I can only say this... there is a pure racer and engineer involved with ProBoat bits and pieces now... it's not something that has gone unnoticed...

[Diesel6401]

Befu, that was very well explained. I have been an electrician for 15
years and could not of explained it any better.

My main concern with the PB electronics is the usage of small calliber wires. The MG motor uses 18 gauge wire and the ESC wires are no bigger. I have been told to put 5mm connectors on the motor leads but all that will do is creat a hot spot as energy can not flow past those connectors any faster than a 3mm bullet set due to wire gauge resistance. Asides from that, the amount of solder needed to attach a 5mm bullet to an 18 huge wire will create even more resistance than necessary.

But I will add the caps to the power wires and the resister to the positive leas onjelp the flow of initial energy to the stock caps slow down, hopefully helping the ESC last longer.

Problem with the 3mm was they were de-soldering real easy and causing failures, change them out problem fixed, now that's not a technical answer even though I do have a electrical background, but it works. K.I.S.S ( Keep It Simple Stupid), we can over think the situation or do what works. I have been bashing my 45 amp esc for the last few months with a motor that can pull more constant than what the esc is rated for, still works still runs cool and im waiting to see how far I can push until she lets go. All I did was change all the connectors and dis-able the bec.

[Boomer]

Where are you fellows getting the "caps" you are chatting about, and how to do you select the correct "caps" for a given ESC?? If one of you gents could post a few pictures of this procedure, I for one would appreciate it!
Thank you
Boomer

[GP73]

I buy mine at a local electronics store, 35V 220uF or more and I solder them in series. You can also get 63V caps if you are running HV setups.

The idea is to have at least double the voltage that goes in and as much capacitance as you can fit in the space. Other people prefer fewer larger capacitors (1 or 2 1000uF) instead of smaller ones in greater number (4 to 8 220uF or 470uF).

I'll leave the quality and type of capacitors discussions to experts, but you can buy this stuff in pretty much any electronics store or online (mouser.com)

Where are you fellows getting the "caps" you are chatting about, and how to do you select the correct "caps" for a given ESC?? If one of you gents could post a few pictures of this procedure, I for one would appreciate it!
Thank you
Boomer

[JackBlack26]

I'm going to just politely disagree with this premise... The bottom line, from many years of experience with these exact systems, is that adding larger connectors to any of these RTR systems keeps them from melting off the small contacts. It provides more heat-sink area and dissipates the heat much better. Plain and simple... IT WORKS!

As for the wire gauge and contact sizes... I can only say this... there is a pure racer and engineer involved with ProBoat bits and pieces now... it's not something that has gone unnoticed...

I agree that changing to bigger contacts will keep them from melting off, but most times when they melt off it's from bad solder jobs like with what used to be found in the tabs of mass produced Zippy LiPos. Simply taking the time to unsolder them and make sure that they have made good contact and aren't "cold soldered" is more than enough to prevent any issues. We have to remember that in mass produced electronics it's quantity that maters not quality so bad solder jobs definitely make it through and IMO causing the failures we see most of.

You may see the larger connector as a "heat sink" but I see it as a hot spot, as will an infrared camera, specially when covered in heat shrink. It may work for many racers who only run for short bursts, or less time than the "average" RTR customer would; and I will not argue that because I do not have that kind of experience. I would however like to be able to run 4-5 packs through my boat on the same outing if possible, not just a few laps around some buoy.

It's great to hear that they are looking in to the small size wire leads in these systems. If I could do it without voiding my warranty I would upgrade them to larger wires from the origin.

Please don't take any of what I have said as an argument. I don't want to start any trouble and respect your views. It's simply my point of view from experience with working on electrical systems. It's how I was trained to think when it comes to power delivery. Bigger and less resistance is only better when the whole power delivery system is of the same, adequate size from start to finish.

[JackBlack26]

I buy mine at a local electronics store, 35V 220uF or more and I solder them in series. You can also get 63V caps if you are running HV setups.

The idea is to have at least double the voltage that goes in and as much capacitance as you can fit in the space. Other people prefer fewer larger capacitors (1 or 2 1000uF) instead of smaller ones in greater number (4 to 8 220uF or 470uF).

I'll leave the quality and type of capacitors discussions to experts, but you can buy this stuff in pretty much any electronics store or online (mouser.com)

Awesome info! Thanks

[LiPo Power]

Right on!!!!
So soon enough will see RTR components with better connectors and wires...

I'm going to just politely disagree with this premise... The bottom line, from many years of experience with these exact systems, is that adding larger connectors to any of these RTR systems keeps them from melting off the small contacts. It provides more heat-sink area and dissipates the heat much better. Plain and simple... IT WORKS!

As for the wire gauge and contact sizes... I can only say this... there is a pure racer and engineer involved with ProBoat bits and pieces now... it's not something that has gone unnoticed...

[befu]

Bahh....Mechanical Engineer trying to teach us about electronics.....go design a bridge

Double "Bah" back at you! Someone else trying to tell a mechanical Engineer to go design a bridge.... That is a civil engineer's job!

Mechanical engineers would be better suited to build a boat.... Um, bad example. Never mind.

Brian

[LiPo Power]

Double "Bah" back at you! Someone else trying to tell a mechanical Engineer to go design a bridge.... That is a civil engineer's job!

Mechanical engineers would be better suited to build a boat.... Um, bad example. Never mind.

Brian

[Doby]

Double "Bah" back at you! Someone else trying to tell a mechanical Engineer to go design a bridge.... That is a civil engineer's job!

Mechanical engineers would be better suited to build a boat.... Um, bad example. Never mind.

Brian

OK,,,go design a toaster

[JackBlack26]

You guys crack me up

[LiPo Power]

Same here, LOL....

[befu]

OK,,,go design a toaster

OK, now that is funny! Actually, I started this when I was looking at making a 4' long vacuum forming machine.... Odd, ain't it!

Brian

[dano1]

I just orderd a octura x642 balanced. I seen diesel's posts on this combo and am running all stock m/g hardware with 8000 lipos, havent had any problems, this prop won't harm me........will it?? You guys are scaring me!!!!!!!!

Dano