proboat electronics worhtless??

[roadrashracing]

Is is just me or do you pretty much have to give a away proboat electronics, it just seems like there are a lot of them out there and need to be priced cheap to sell. I am glad I did not get a miss g and try to sell the electronics.

[ron1950]

buy a stiletto and sell me the esc cheep lol

[tiqueman]

And sell me the Stiletto motor... cheap

[hobie]

Such a shame you have to buy a RTR product, when REALLY it's not. I mean, it's like a toy at the store untill you mod it out.
You should have just bought the hull. Like I should have. Love the boat, but everything inside had to go, since I blew up 2 stock speed controls.
After replacing EVERYTHING inside, and fixing the rudder issue, it runs great now. Such a shame it comes the way it does. Why can't someone make a real race ready boat??? Maybe one day...

[LiPo Power]

This boat is $339.99. What can you expect? For this money out of the box I think this boat is funtastic... There is race boats out there but hey, the price will not be anywhere close to it....This boat is design for 30+ out of the box and its doing what was design for.... It is us and the fact that there is never enough speed for us...

[hobie]

Ok, that is a good point. I've spent enough money to buy 2! Oh well, I agree, it's crazy fun for the money.
Like I said, love the way it handles, and runs. Just wish the electronics were a bit better.

[tiqueman]

Yeah I think for out of the box, you cant get a better boat than the MG. I dont know why you had so many issues w/ the Speedy hobie. What were you doing to cause this???????? I think the PB electronics are fantastic. I did change my ESC out to a T-120, but only because Im swinging larger props to get my speeds up in race conditions. I dont want to risk blowing the stock speedy.

[Doby]

Just wish the electronics were a bit better.

Explain please, they have been in use for a few years on numerous boats.

[hobie]

I'm not sure. I might have over done it by running 5s, but my temps weren't hot, but then I was told heat wouldn't be the main factor. But after my smoke show, my servo started twitching all the time. So I had to replace that, then to be safe I got rid of the stock radio system and went to a tactic. I also just recieved yesterday, my new T-120, so I think I will be on the safe side. Im planning on running a 445 or 447 on 5s. I also put an Ammo 1800kv motor in it.
Oh, my esc just stopped working, no smoke or nothing. It would even program and arm properly, just wouldn't spin the motor. I grabbed my buddies, and his was the one that smoked. And even tho proboat said they would replace it, nothing has shown up. And I tried to email them again, asking about the status, and I don't even get a reply. So customer service isn't very good either. Just everything about proboat has left a bad taste in my mouth. This was my first proboat purchase, and most likely my last.

[hobie]

Explain please, they have been in use for a few years on numerous boats.

One esc stopped working after 4 runs, and after one run, I had one smoke. Then the servo was chattering all the time, so that had to go.....

[hobie]

Explain please, they have been in use for a few years on numerous boats.

Also, I read here that someone used a logger... 47 amp average on a 45 amp speed control doesn't leave much room for error. Jmo.
This is why I'm using a 120 amp, just to have a SMALL margin of error.

[Fluid]

It is very easy to over-amp the spec setups just by using large props and high performance packs. I ran a 50 mph setup in my FE-30 with the UL-1 motor and AQ 60 amp ESC without problems, but when I switched to a Castle ICE100 I was logging 70-80 amps and spikes over 110 with no other changes. So some spec ESCs are clearly under-rated. I haven't used the 45 amp PB controllers so I don't know much about them, but others have used them in higher amp draw setups. The new PB controller in the Stiletto is nice, but mine is very touchy at low throttle.



.

[Boomer]

This is an interesting topic for sure. My experiences with Proboat ESC's are mixed, but are mostly positive. The ESC that came with my MG performed perfectly, until I over powered it. I didn't realize that the boat came wired in "series", so whatever batteries I used, the ESC and motor were seeing double the voltage of the voltage listed on the battery. So if you are using two 11.1 volt batteries, that is really yielding 22.2 volts. If the boat is wired in parallel the voltage to them would remain at 11.1 V, but the mAh doubles. As I understand it.

If these components were all rated in the same unit of measurement, with mins and max listings, it would be much simpler to match them. Instead, we have to know a bunch of conversion formulas to insure a safe combination of batteries, ESC and motors and of course, we have to know that different sized props can change the amp draw.

Let's see batteries are rated with volts and mAh, number of cells, and another fun number the "C" factor or discharge rate. Motors are in KV, ESC are rated in AMPS running and burst, but the motor can draw only to power it thinks it needs for the power source for a given task, and it can kill itself or the ESC by demanding more power than it can take. So, I have to be smarter than the motor and ESC. That's a problem!

Who the heck thought of this? And why not make it easier for simple folks like me to figure this stuff out. I have been searching for a very simple chart that provides conversations for these different units of energy, so I can calculate the right and safe combinations. I am not an electrician or electrical engineer. I guess I have to go back to school to learn this stuff, just need to know where the school is, other than toasting a few things.

Having said all that, I still have to ask the smarter RC chaps to break the code for me. I know now that you can't use a 45 amp ESC with a pair 11.1v 3 cell lipos when wired in series, which I now know equals 6s. I was very lucky that I only toasted the ESC, and not the whole boat! It was very exciting to see the speed that combo produced for maybe a few very fast passes before it produced a black cloud of smoke that is as pungent a smell as a dead body. Sorry about the gross comparison, but anyone who has toasted an ESC knows what I am talking about. That was my fault not the ESC's.

The only negative thing I can report on is on one model of their ESC that is in my Proboat Classic Runabout. It refuses to operate with any 2.4 ghz radio system. It works fine with the stock 27 mgh radio. I have tried 6 of them to no avail. It will operate the rudder servo but not the motor. It will operate everything if you reverse the two plugs, but then the throttle controls the rudder and the rudder controls the throttle. Proboat has been very good about replacing them, but can't explain why they don't work. The instructions even say this ESC can be used with 2.4 systems.

So for now, I am back to that POS radio that it came with. I am sure unless someone can tell me how to get this particular speed control to work with one of my 2.4 radios, I will end up replacing it with a different brand ESC.

I have several other Proboats that all work as advertised, so with that one issue with my runabout, I am good with their stuff. I haven't found better people to do business with and that is saying a lot. I agree that for the money, they provide fair value. I have been around HP cars and boats for many years and know that the faster you want to go, the more expensive it gets and it is the same with RC boats.

Still think it would be nice to locate a simple reference chart that would help lay people learn without toasting stuff. Perhaps one of you advanced fellows can point me in the direction of such a reference tool. I'd promise to study it!

Thank you
Boomer

[ron1950]

boomer....nice .....i couldn't write that much if my life depended on it.......lol

[JackBlack26]

This boat is $339.99. What can you expect? For this money out of the box I think this boat is funtastic... There is race boats out there but hey, the price will not be anywhere close to it....This boat is design for 30+ out of the box and its doing what was design for.... It is us and the fact that there is never enough speed for us...

I completely agree! I'm super happy with mine running it on 4S as its intended to be run. It's like anything else, it has it's limits. My Armada 4x4 is rated to tow up to 9000 pounds. I could probably super charge it and get it to tow even more, but the motor wont last long and I'll probably burn out the breaks too while trying to stop. Would it be the trucks fault?

Bottom line, everything has it's limits and specially these boats since we all use different C rated batteries, some of us use "cheap" HobbyCity packs, bigger or different props, and some even alter the weight of the boat. For the money and used as intended you should not have any issues. If my ESC does burn out while running it as intended, then I'll call Horizen. I have never had an issues with them replacing a burned item within a certain amount of time as long as I provide them with a receipt.

Happy boating!
Rafael

[tiqueman]

Boomer, have you downloaded FeCalc??? Thats a big help item. Donyt over think setups. Just shoot for your proper rpm range to figure out KV vs. voltage. Everything else will come in time. And the more you build, the more you will begin to understand and be able to figure things out. My first dabble with FE was also my first with brushless. I felt lost.. Then I got FeCalc and started puting 2 and 2 together.

Hobie, this is for you. Also a general rule of thumb, when you up the voltage, you down size in props. 5S turning a 445 or 447 may? give you issues. Start w/ a smaller prop and work your way up if amp draw and temp allow. Otherwise your going to think turnigy controllers are no good either. What prop were you spinning on the stock esc at 5S?

[JimClark]

It cracks me up that the vast majority of problems with RTR or spec gear are caused by people who either don't read the manual, or run hotter (most of the time significantly hotter) setups than the boat was designed for. Then they do nothing but complain. If you wanna try to break the sound barrier then i suggest you not buy RTR/Spec setups.
Jim

[tiqueman]

It cracks me up that the vast majority of problems with RTR or spec gear are caused by people who either don't read the manual, or run hotter (most of the time significantly hotter) setups than the boat was designed for. Then they do nothing but complain. If you wanna try to break the sound barrier then i suggest you not buy RTR/Spec setups.
Jim

Amen Brother Jim!

[jac4412]

For the stock setup... this boat cannot be any better... neither can its electronics. I've raced a few boats, and have talked to a few racers, almost everyone who has driven a MG that I know of has been extremely impressed with the boat, most agreeing its the best RTR boat out there (For a decent size FE). You can't expect that esc to run well in 4 foot chop on 6s on a 20 min runtime..... (aka you can't ask more from it than it can take, just like any other esc)

[scoota]

It cracks me up that the vast majority of problems with RTR or spec gear are caused by people who either don't read the manual, or run hotter (most of the time significantly hotter) setups than the boat was designed for. Then they do nothing but complain. If you wanna try to break the sound barrier then i suggest you not buy RTR/Spec setups.
Jim

If you all think PB escs are crap , why not buy a hull only & set it up how you like ???? i have my BJ26 esc its 4 years old & still going strong !!! Running 5s & over proping will KILL any 45 amp ESC........... I think more people should invest in data loggers to see what amps you pulling with different set ups , you might be surprised at what a few mm in prop size will do to your AMP draw ....

[LiPo Power]

I do not see anyone here that will share <<roadrashracing>> opinion.
It is simple. PB MG, Bj-26, FF, stiletto electronics are right where they shoud be.
We all know that. End of subject.....

[ray schrauwen]

...and what cells exactly was he running? if they were not up to snuff, then his esc's would not last long on 4S either.

BL ESC's do not like poor cells, the Fet's may not turn on fully and, bye bye ESC...

[ron1950]

i am running the stiletto 1800 motor in my mg with the 45a esc and no problems at all with a 640 prop.....stays very cool and all...but if it pops the esc its my fault not pb's and ill get another esc....just my 2 cents

[GP73]

I *do* have an issue with the stock Stiletto ESC and it's how the caps are connected to the PCB, there is no easy way to change them if they blow up... It would have been nicer if they made them easier to replace.

Other than that it's a very nicely built ESC and very good spec for the boat. Just make sure you add a capacitor bank before using it...

I do not see anyone here that will share <<roadrashracing>> opinion.
It is simple. PB MG, Bj-26, FF, stiletto electronics are right where they shoud be.
We all know that. End of subject.....

[JimClark]

Then swap the ESC out and you can sell the stock one to ME

I *do* have an issue with the stock Stiletto ESC and it's how the caps are connected to the PCB, there is no easy way to change them if they blow up... It would have been nicer if they made them easier to replace.

Other than that it's a very nicely built ESC and very good spec for the boat. Just make sure you add a capacitor bank before using it...

[GP73]

I fried the stock one by running the wrong motor on it...

That's how I found out about the capacitors... I still think it's a great ESC, very well packaged (too well?), I just didn't research the motor properly first.

I really like the fact that it's well sealed all the way around, I've submerged that ESC several times by flipping the Stilletto and even after sitting in water for 15-20 minutes it was still working perfectly.

The only other "flaw" I can see is the price, I can buy 2 Seaking 120A for that amount.

I would buy another if it was half the current price.

EDIT: And I'm wondering why the STLO ESC is almost double the price of the MG one...

Then swap the ESC out and you can sell the stock one to ME

[ron1950]

tell me where i can get a seaking 120 for 55 bucks pls ...i need one lol

[7500RPM]

...and what cells exactly was he running? if they were not up to snuff, then his esc's would not last long on 4S either.

BL ESC's do not like poor cells, the Fet's may not turn on fully and, bye bye ESC...

I am not taking any sides on this BUT if ESC are designed correctly and with GOOD FET's not this surface mount crap (SOIC package) that some companys like to just keep adding boards of them to get the power rating they are trying to say they can handle, then there would be less ESC failures...AND if people would use common sense about loading them...

[Darin Jordan]

The only other "flaw" I can see is the price, I can buy 2 Seaking 120A for that amount.

How many times can you "dunk" the Seaking???

[Diesel6401]

Ok, that is a good point. I've spent enough money to buy 2! Oh well, I agree, it's crazy fun for the money.
Like I said, love the way it handles, and runs. Just wish the electronics were a bit better.

Better? My opinion is the PB45amp esc is one of the best 45amp esc, way better then the stock sv45amp. If you know what your doing you can make that esc work very well. I know I'm running a stiletto motor on my 45amp esc, just using a smaller prop and changing the connectors and other need to do things.

I'm not sure. I might have over done it by running 5s, but my temps weren't hot, but then I was told heat wouldn't be the main factor. But after my smoke show, my servo started twitching all the time. So I had to replace that, then to be safe I got rid of the stock radio system and went to a tactic. I also just recieved yesterday, my new T-120, so I think I will be on the safe side. Im planning on running a 445 or 447 on 5s. I also put an Ammo 1800kv motor in it.
Oh, my esc just stopped working, no smoke or nothing. It would even program and arm properly, just wouldn't spin the motor. I grabbed my buddies, and his was the one that smoked. And even tho proboat said they would replace it, nothing has shown up. And I tried to email them again, asking about the status, and I don't even get a reply. So customer service isn't very good either. Just everything about proboat has left a bad taste in my mouth. This was my first proboat purchase, and most likely my last.

Did you change all the connectors when running 5s to 5.5mm or higher (and I mean all), did you dis-able the esc bec? Did you time your runs and check temps often? What size prop cause a 447 on a BJ motor is a whole lot of prop even on 4s.

Why down grade to a Tactic? Yes I run tactic and love them, but the MG comes with one of the best RX's on out. Hands down it's the nicest rx from any rtr and binds with any marine spectrum radio on the market. In no way am I bashing tactic, or bashing a member. Their is just a whole lot of blame game when a lot of people should point the finger at themselves. The PB esc was not designed to run 5s, it's just a bonus that it does (if you take the time and setup it correctly).

It cracks me up that the vast majority of problems with RTR or spec gear are caused by people who either don't read the manual, or run hotter (most of the time significantly hotter) setups than the boat was designed for. Then they do nothing but complain. If you wanna try to break the sound barrier then i suggest you not buy RTR/Spec setups.
Jim

I 100% agree. How many threads was their about the programming for lipos and people b*tching about it not coming programmed and all the questions related to it, when the whole situation is laid out in the manual word for word on what you need to do. Is it PB's fault that people use the product outside of their suggested setup? Where in the manual does it the say it's ok to run 5s? I bet if people read the manual and used the recommended setups their wouldn't be any issues. If I burn my controller out its my own damn fault for deviating from the suggested setups. I can't blame anyone, but myself.