Looks like an esc swap too. Todd (big papa) is running an m445 on his all stock.
Catching Air!
Yup, but the ESC was just for insurance. My neighbor and I ran again. Im now untouchable. BUT........ I finally blew it over in a little head wind and heres how she came back in. I knew it would happen, just hoped it wouldnt be that quick. Very dissaponting, to say the least, that Proboat took such time and care to make a cat that handles as well as a V and they skimp out and produce it w/ a crap paper thin PLASTIC hatch. At this rate, one would be out the cost of a hatch on every blow over???? Epoxy hatch is back in the works!
EDIT: And Yes, it was taped down
Dang Scott! Those factory hatches are weaker than puppy piss. That sucks.
FE BOATING: Less like a hobby and more like an addiction!
Funny thing was, the last thing I said to my neighbor before we walked out to run was, "I need to reinforce this or make my new hatch before next weekends races."
Heres a shot of the drive. Its basically flat w/ the bottom of the sponsons and you can barely slide a piece of paper under the back of the strut, meaning it has about .5% positive. The pic shows it on a table cloth w/ a pad protector under it so its a little misleading. Better pics soon.
I was going to shoot some vid tomorrow along w/ an eagle tree but .. sighhhh.. thatll have to wait.
EDIT: And heres an idea of the wind conditions... It was far from choppy, the boat actually handled amazingly and ran flawless in it. At the East end of where we were running, the lake turns and form an inlet, the wind was coming howling thru that area but had no time to stir up the waves yet so it was hardly a ripple, thats where the wind got under it though and tossed it. That area would be up and left in the pic...
Last edited by tiqueman; 11-20-2010 at 06:41 PM.
Check with this fellow. He should have new MG Style hatches, that won't break. He told me that if it breaks he'll send you a new on free! That doesn't include stepping on it or running it over.
Boomer
Check out his post at this address #83 https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...t=18855&page=3
Leave him a message or send him an e-mail. His contact information is:
Richard @
rjteam@aol.com
281-331-5422
Boomer, like I said before, Ive made a mold already. I posted that I was making one a few post before you announced Rich's. I just havent layed one up because I cant find the Gieco green color... I spoke to Rich last week.. he is having issues with color as well. Thanks anyways.
If you look at my Avatar, thats my BJ w/ my epoxy hatch I made for it. They are for sale in on the forum.
Tiqueman,
Your custom BJ hatch is really nifty!There are so many BJs out there, your custom canopy makes it a completely different boat! I have liked the BJ boats, but never got around to buying one. I have seen videos of a few that have been "souped up" and really get with the program. If I ever get one, I'd have get one of your custom hatch covers.
The hatch on my EKOS is very flimzy too. It warps or bows up in the center in different temperatures. I asked the fellows at Venom about it, and the said they are aware and they that use a heat gun to get them to go back to being flat. I haven't flipped any of my boats yet, but know that is just a matter of time before it do, so this hatch issue is a concern.
One would think some one at the source would pick up on the fact that their hatches need to be a bit more durable.
Regarding the color, I think I may have mentioned the way for me to get some Geico green paint, was to take the hatch to my local auto paint store. They have a paint matching service for the public. They provide the amount you need in a can, and will also put some in spray cans. It is not cheap, but so far, it is the only hope I have for getting some touch up paint.
So far, I haven't needed the paint, but I think the next time a go to that part of town, I may get some made.
If enough of MG owner's complained (nicely) to Proboat, they might consider pffering (selling )touch up paint. Couldn't hurt for everyone to shot them an e-mail asking for it.
Boomer
Thanks for the compliment Boomer! Amazingly enough, I went to 4 reputable automotive paint shops, consisting of PPG, Onmi, House of Kolor and Sherwin Williams.. NONE of them could match it. They can get the color close, but its not bright when they do. And all of them, the colro match machine saw it as white, not yellow/ green.
Im jonesin here. I finally got it set up and its out of commision. Ive still got to prep the mold etc etc to pull a part and just dont have time today.. or probably this week, to get it done. Grrr... I may do something else to get it back on the water
She's running really light with the cog and strut the way it is. I may push the batteries forward just a bit to try and keep the nose down. For sport running for fun its great how it is, for racing conditions, I think it may be on the edge. Once I can get it back together and find the sweet spot, I will calculate my exact cog and let you all know.
paint the new hatch fuchia or hot pink lol then u can see it coming and going better lol
MY RETIREMENT PLAN?????.....POWERBALL
74 vintage kirby clasic hydro, pursuit mono, mg, 47'' mono, popeye hydro...
The color as a lot of white in it. Some years ago, the safety industry changed from safety yellow to a color very similar to the Geico green. It was a terrible problem for the safety garment industry and sign people, as it was an unstable color and would fade to white at the first glimpse of the Sun.
I have a 2nd MG hull and canopy which is slated to be painted, as soon as time permits. I have few paint schemes in mind, none involve Geico green! This is a nice looking boat, and with some good graphics will be a real show stopper!
I will shoot down to my paint shop after Turkey day to see if these chaps can come up with a match and will let you guys know how that turns out.
Boomer
Alrighty so here's what I've got.
I'm running the stock setup, got an x642 on (sharpened and balanced myself), and I offset the rudder, used the kinetc bracket and grinded off the lower bar. I kept the strust stock, still bounced. Lower the bracket... still bounced but showed significant improvment... at the lowered level this thing was amazing to watch getting onto plane, would literally jump out of the water. So I've moved the bracket in between the lowered and stock setting. I've also got the batteries jusssstt hangining off of the back. So I'm going to try this setup and see how it is, but I still haven't been able to get the bounce out. At the lowered settings though the boat seemed faster than it was stock, not sure what it was, I didn't GPS it (but I will next time). Haven't seen a downgrade in performance at all, I've still be able to cut corners like on rails with perfect stability at top speeds.
Ran the MG today with the NC boys. Had a blast and got the bounce to disappear. Im running the stock inline rudder. Strut neutral and dropped so the top of the strut is even with the hardware bracket. I have the stock 45amp esc and a PB 1800kv Stiletto motor. With the batteries moved aft and a x642 still had a small bounce (no where near as bad as stock, but still noticeable), wizard suggested a prop change. I had a x440/3 but the opening wouldn't fit on the drive dog so I borrowed wizards grim 40x52/3 which is damn near identical to the x440/3 but had a wider opening for the drive dog. Threw it in the water temps came down nicely on the telemetry esc reading, bounce went away didn't have the gps in the boat but guess what I honestly don't care what the speed reading is. Boat is running nice, cool, smooth, looks sexy on the water and most importantly A BLAST TO DRIVE! I think I have my winning combo!!! (for now )
nice ...i have a stock x440/3 s & balanced but it really got hot on the stiletto....is your de tounged or back cut? i have the same set up in the mg as u do but offset rudder...where did u put the batteries on your good runs and what temps pls...
MY RETIREMENT PLAN?????.....POWERBALL
74 vintage kirby clasic hydro, pursuit mono, mg, 47'' mono, popeye hydro...
I don't believe wizard modified his prop at all. I'm almost 100% sure it was just s&b. Well with the x642 after a few minutes esc read 128 and I brought it in. Switched props ran a few more minutes and esc was reading about 115 on the dx3s. The motor I didn't get a reading off of, but was warm to the touch. I have been focused on esc readings because i am only running the 45amp esc
same here on stock 45a esc ...but has been very cool every run so far....willl try the 440 for a few mins next time out and see...did u see any speed improvement with it over the 642>
MY RETIREMENT PLAN?????.....POWERBALL
74 vintage kirby clasic hydro, pursuit mono, mg, 47'' mono, popeye hydro...
I agree with you Dies... My MG was absolutely screaming on the pond... look beautiful. If I didn't have that slight top end bounce it would really set it off, but she really looks gorgeous
Just for reference, the stock MG plastic prop, which is essentially a Prather 215, has 2.52" of pitch, and is 1.64" (41.6mm) in diameter.
For comparison, the X642 is 1.65" (42mm) in diameter, with a pitch of 2.638".
In other words, I wouldn't expect a BIG performance difference between the two.
Another point of reference is that the plastic MG prop vs. the Stiletto stainless version of the same prop, tested on my boat to be 2mph in difference... 36mph vs. 38.
If you want to see some decent speed increase, you might want to try the X645, which not only has more pitch (2.835), but also more blade area do to it's larger diameter. This will be pushing the stock ESC, but the motor will take it just fine. Just watch your amp draw and runtime.
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
The x642 heated the esc up to about 128F after a few minutes on the stiletto motor/bj esc combo. With the 40x52/3 temps dropped 12 degrees and hop went away. I'm not really after speed in this hull. I just really want decent runtime good temps no hop and a smile. Now that I know what prop worked well if I get that need for speed I could try a moving up in prop. I don't have a x645, but I do have a m445. I could run a few short passes and check and determine if it can handle the extra pitch. I just don't wanna blow my esc.
All i know is that I can't get the freaking bounce out... it's such a shame because this is such a nice looking boat when she runs, really impressive performance too
Dies, did you see a speed difference? I've tried the m445, x642, adjusting the strut and batts, and strutter. Nothing yet. With a lowered strut and x642 I've got a slight bounce, and that's the best I've gotten
Deisel, Lets get away from this way of strut height explanation and tell it the more accurate and correct way. Boats are coming out w/ brackets mounted at different hights on the transom. 1/8" difference in height can make worlds of difference how the hull performs. Where is your strut while sitting on a flat surface (ie table)
My pic, no bounce at all on a M445
And my COG is 7-7/8", measured from the back of the ride surface or sponson, not the transom. Not measured by 1/4 inch off the battery tray or the middle of the "O" in Geico. Because again, everyones can be slightly different. And the slightest cog, stru sdjustment etc in a cat means a lot.
Ok got some measurements today and pics to go with them. Now I can give a detailed breakdown of my setup.
Motor: PB 1800kv, 5.5mm bullets
ESC: Stock MG 45 amp, 5.5mm bullets, bec disabled, timing high, brake disabled
Prop: Grim 40x52/3 S&B
Strut depth: 1 3/16"
CG: 7 3/4"
No bounce, hopefully I can get some video.
A little more clear, but I still have a question or two... Where are you measuring your srtut depth from. It seems as if your hull is sitting flat w/ your strut. If I measure mine like that to the bottom of the transom it would be about 3/4". Mine at that measurement is 7/8". If measured from he bottom of the strut bracket, then no es bueno as a 1/16" diffence in mounting from one boat to another will significantly change the outcome. So wheres you 1-3/16 from-to?
Also, hows that 40/52/3 doing on it? Any gps/ amp results Mr Telemetry man?
Only temp reading which was 114F if I remember correctly on the esc. Motor was fine. If you look at your pic compared to your pic you'll see that my strut is dropped a lot lower then yours. You can't see the top of my strut showing but on yours you can see a decent portion of the strut showing. That's the difference in measurements. I am measureing with the boat on a flat surface resting on the the strut and sponsons just like your pic and I am measureing from the top of the table surface to the bottom of the transom no to the bottom of the strut bracket. You can see 6" rule at the transom. Weather promitting I will get some speed checks. I need to buy a eagle tree as a xmas gift to myself.
So how is that working? Heres where Im still confused. If your boat is sitting flat on the table and your strut is resting on the table as to not lift the sponsons off the table, your actually 1/8 higher than I am. My boat set on a table leaves the tails of the sponsons a light 1/8 off the surface. So I ask again, how from the surface of a table to the bottom part of my hull at the transom perp. to where the bracket is mounted, measures less on mine than yours, when Im running deeper. See where Im coming from on this? Is there 2 different hulls out there?
Im by no means going thru all this to doubt you, or to change my set up. Ive found the sweet spot for a M445 aned Im leaving it there for a while. Just isnt making sense to me how Im getting a smaller measurment. If I lined the my strut up comparing to hownmuch you have out the top of the bracket, which is practically none, my hull would be 1/2" easy in the air. HOWEVER, the pics of where our brackets are seem to be w/in 1/16. UNless Im not seeing yours properly on where its location is
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