Miss Geico-What Works For Me

[airman66285]

a very cheep and easy offset is the octura stand offs....about 10 dollars

Ron,
I noticed that I only had a 70% reduction in porpoising when I used the Octura brackets. In my opinion, the rudder is still too close to the thrust cone with the Octura set-up. The Kintec bracket off sets the centerline of my rudder blade from the centerline of the thrust cone by 1.6" and I have absolutley no bounce whatsoever. I also modified the fore-to-aft dimension of the bracket so that the rudder is closer to the transom.

[airman66285]

Airman
That is just what I needed! Your drawing is perfect. It seems Kintec may have miss drilled one of the holes in the bracket I received, as my rudder is on angle now. I will send him a picture and share with him what we all have concluded about the shape of his bracket.
Thank you
Boomer

Let me know if Jan needs a 3D CAD file or anything else. I do CAD for a living and I can do it very easily and quickly for him or anyone else.

[airman66285]

Did strength suffer with the red part being removed?

I wouldn't worry about the strength of the bracket after it is modified - it is aircraft grade aluminum and very strong. It is at least 5x as strong as the stock aluminum from the MG rudder assembly.

[Darin Jordan]

I wouldn't worry about the strength of the bracket after it is modified - it is aircraft grade aluminum and very strong. It is at least 5x as strong as the stock aluminum from the MG rudder assembly.

If something happens while driving a MG that requires a rudder assembly that is "5x as strong as the stock aluminum from the MG rudder assembly", I think you have bigger issues to deal with that the strength of the stock hardware...

[Darin Jordan]

Ron,
In my opinion, the rudder is still too close to the thrust cone with the Octura set-up.

You guys... if you noticed in my mod that I posted when this first came up, you should move the rudder FORWARD as well as to the side. I try to line up the leading edge with the drive-dog or front of prop, which keeps the rudder blade clear of the thrust cone... I drilled new holes in the rudder assembly to accommodate moving it forward as well...

That being said... mine is currently back further than that, and it doesn't have any porpoising at all when the balance is set correctly...

[airman66285]

You guys... if you noticed in my mod that I posted when this first came up, you should move the rudder FORWARD as well as to the side. I try to line up the leading edge with the drive-dog or front of prop, which keeps the rudder blade clear of the thrust cone... I drilled new holes in the rudder assembly to accommodate moving it forward as well...

That being said... mine is currently back further than that, and it doesn't have any porpoising at all when the balance is set correctly...

Um, that's what I did - moved the rudder further away from the propeller and closer to the transom. I was just trying to point out that the length of the Octura brackets put the rudder to close to the prop.

[airman66285]

If something happens while driving a MG that requires a rudder assembly that is "5x as strong as the stock aluminum from the MG rudder assembly", I think you have bigger issues to deal with that the strength of the stock hardware...

I didn't mean to knock the stock hardware - I just wanted to communicate the fact that removing material from the Kintec bracket did not make anything weaker for this application.

[Darin Jordan]

I didn't mean to knock the stock hardware - I just wanted to communicate the fact that removing material from the Kintec bracket did not make anything weaker for this application.

Just ribbin' ya, Man...

[slowroll]

There were people asking about the hatch kit on his mg .You can get the sv 27 hatch kit from Jan at kintec also when you order youre bracket. Works great and holds down the inner tub cover. , and it comes complete 1 screw with 2 o rings and washer to keep the water out. Works Great!! complete with a machined solid screw base ( E Z install ) and good price too! 10-20 minute job

[ron1950]

hey sounds good to me whatever works for each boat.....i being cheep as hell tryed the octura mounts first lol

[tman52804]

Airman,

Are you sure after the MG is on plane (step) that the Kintec bracket is creating drag? I would definitely agree with the drag getting the boat on plane, but once there, I don't see it causing a problem. Mine jumps up on plane so fast, I don't know if I really would mess with it.

[Darin Jordan]

Airman,

Are you sure after the MG is on plane (step) that the Kintec bracket is creating drag? I would definitely agree with the drag getting the boat on plane, but once there, I don't see it causing a problem. Mine jumps up on plane so fast, I don't know if I really would mess with it.

It it's still getting hit by the prop spray, then it's going to cause drag... Looks like the rudder arm/linkage, and the bottom of the bracket, are all still in the spray of the prop.

[Boomer]

Darin
Could you share the actual distance from the transom to the leading edge of your rudder and the length of your spacers?
That would help me in only drilling once.
Thank you
Boomer

[airman66285]

Airman,

Are you sure after the MG is on plane (step) that the Kintec bracket is creating drag? I would definitely agree with the drag getting the boat on plane, but once there, I don't see it causing a problem. Mine jumps up on plane so fast, I don't know if I really would mess with it.

Yes, the bottom part of the bracket was out of the water once she got on plane but it still hit the water and caused drag when it went over waves on the water and when I went into a corner.

[tman52804]

That's what I figured. It really shouldn't make a big difference, but every little bit helps.

[hobie]

You guys... if you noticed in my mod that I posted when this first came up, you should move the rudder FORWARD as well as to the side. I try to line up the leading edge with the drive-dog or front of prop, which keeps the rudder blade clear of the thrust cone... I drilled new holes in the rudder assembly to accommodate moving it forward as well...

That being said... mine is currently back further than that, and it doesn't have any porpoising at all when the balance is set correctly...

I have a question about all this offset stuff. Mine still bounces even with the offset rudder, when I'm using a 642, when I step up to a (or down, depending on how you see it) to a 447, runs smooth as glass. The question, can the rudder be to close to the transom?? I was thinkin of getting a whole different rudder assmembly, so the the offset rudder and the drive are 2 separate pieces. I just don't want to order the wrong part, by having it to close to the transom.
The rudder I was thinking of is this one, or similar.

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...ros-rud-dualpu

[ron1950]

does it lose speed with the 447 at all? if not id just use that one but i am cheep and dont want to pay 50 bucks for a new rudder lol good luck with it

[Jeff Wohlt]

I think it is the rudder design...not about it being inline. Other cats do not have this problem with inline rudders. My hor cat runs great with that set up.

I may try another rudder and see if that helps before I mount it over to the side.

[hobie]

does it lose speed with the 447 at all? if not id just use that one but i am cheep and dont want to pay 50 bucks for a new rudder lol good luck with it

Ron, I'm only trying the smaller one cause when I'm using the 447, the wires get really hot after only a few min of running. The 447 also pushed the boat to 45 mph on 5s, with 642 I'm only getting 38?? I was told it should be faster with the 642. Doesn't seem to be the case. But the wires are way cooler running the smaller prop.

I'm going to move the rudder in and over a bit before I drill any holes.
See if it runs smooth with what I did today. I'm using the octura offsets, so I just drilled two new holes on the rudder clamp, moved it right up as far as I could. And put a small spacer in to move it away from the prop a bit.
I will test it tomorrow and let you know. As long as the snow stays away...

[ron1950]

some will disagree but i found mine likes smaller props with some pitch also...dont know why but it stays cooler also.....bummer about the snow....i though we had it bad cause it finally rained today lol

[tman52804]

Airman,

I just installed my seaking 180 amp esc and the motor wires really make it difficult to get the inner seal and canopy on. Did you quit using the inner (smoke colored) cover/seal?

[hobie]

some will disagree but i found mine likes smaller props with some pitch also...dont know why but it stays cooler also.....bummer about the snow....i though we had it bad cause it finally rained today lol

Lol! You must be way down south. I'm in Vegas today for a course, looking at all the water makes me wish I brought a boat with me!!!! Going home tonight to about 1.5' of snow, and I'm pretty sure the ponds are now solid!!! I'm jealous of you southern boys!!! It's 75 degrees out!! No snow, and I'm wishing I wasn't way up in the north.
I wasn't able to test my new setup, now, if I could find a pool or something. Lol!
Guess I have to wait till spring, or come back south very soon.

[ron1950]

with any luck your basement will flood and u can test it out then...lol...actually all that snow makes u guys appricate the summer more then down here......it was 68 today and i thought it was too cold to go to the lake.....

[blackcat26]

I'm keeping the inline rudder.......I just moved my motors away from the rudder!

[tiqueman]

Offset shafts.... BRILLIANT!

[ron1950]

nice..........

[Boomer]

Blackcat26
How about some more pictures? Like whats under the canopy? It was just a matter of time before someone did this. Very, very nice. This boat was born to be a twin.
Boomer

[blackcat26]

I'm sorry to the OP for this is a partial hi-jack. I simply posted that pic for humor.....Boomer check me out in the boat building section for all the details.

[jac4412]

Yeah I'll ateast to the Kinetc's bracket strength... I was using an industrial grinder and the thing was actually slowing down when I was wearing down the bracket... and heating up the metal till it began to get soft. Very strong aluminum. So I took of the bottom part (the red shown in the 3d image) but left a small section to maintain the 2 screw hole. I'm undecided if I want to take off the blue part yet... since It will be accelerating on a straight line most of the time that part shouldn't cause drag (just a negligible amount). But if I find that it is a problem in my turning I will take it off.

[tiqueman]

Ran a pack w/ my niehbors BJ26 this am. If it wasnt for corners, his BJ definitely would smoke the MG. Im not havin that. Listening to the two boats run, same proboat motors, same batteries, his BJ winds out way more than the MG. I had a GPS in her and she came in at a dissapointing 33.4mph. This was using Turningy 5000mah 40-50C packs. So he left and I began some testing. I removed the x642 that is S/B/DT&C'd and installed a S&B x640. I installed the same rated packs that were peaked a week ago and came in w/ 35.5mph. Progress. The boat seemed to want to bounce a bit more with it. Perhaps I needed to move the strut up a bit. However, instead, I puled it and installed a m445. She threw up a lot more water in the roost, couldnt tell at first as it was going away from me if it was better or worse. Strangely, I heard no "wah wah wah". I turned her around and ran towards the shore. She was gettin it, tru as could be and definitely the best shes run. GPS showed 40.4! The only other change I made in the boat was last night I installed a T-120 ESC in the event I ran 5S today. For two reasons, 1.) Even though some get away w/ it, I will never run a PB ESC on 5S again as I smoked one doing so about a year ago. 2.) Seeing "Yoda's" amp results , I did not want to run a 445 on that esc. Im sure it would be fine, but I need to test to see if I can turn the 445 for 4 minutes for Offshore. Im sure the PB esc would came in a bit warm after that. I hope it works out, if not, seems the 640 so far is the way to go.