Miss geico wire drive

[bigpapa]

WELL HERE IT IS MISS GEICO ON JEFF WOHLT WIRE DRIVE .062
PROP CHUCKY X642 S/B/P
SMC 7.4v 6000 MAH 28C

RAN GOOD TILL I DROPPED RADIO LOL
DID NOTICE WHEN RUDDER IS LOADED THE SLIGHTEST BIT
BOAT DOES NOT HOP
DARIN I THINK YOU ARE CORRECT ON WHAT WE TALKED ABOUT

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bZ6n8h4npIA

[johnf]

Todd that is awesome! Love the commentary! Lmao

Watch out for those holes bud.

[bigpapa]

ha ha funny funny man u are

[johnf]

So you gonna mod the rudder? Referring to what you said about speaking with Darin in original post.

[bigpapa]

kinda pondering somethings will see

[bigpapa]

noticed when you load the rudder the least bit boat settles down

[johnf]

I saw that in the vid too. Have u tried pushin the packs towards the transom?

[bigpapa]

yup did not really change anything

[johnf]

I see. I'm sure you will get it dialed in with some time. That thing looks awesome just sitting still in the water.

[bigpapa]

very good good hull just got off the phone with darin he has a few ideas...........

[johnf]

Sweet, can't wait to hear what you figure out. I'd love to see one of these in person. Wish I had a lhs that carried boats.

[bigpapa]

tell u what i will bring it with me sunday hows that my friend

[johnf]

That would be great!!! I thought about asking, but didn't wanna trouble you.

[bigpapa]

no problem my friend glad to do it

[johnf]

Tks a ton bud. May as well re title this thread to John and todd's chat room. Lol

[Jeff Wohlt]

Nice job. I really hate that hopping. Either the rudder or I am also concerned with the stuffing tube so low to the water acting as a ski. Mine looks like it could drag water in my MG. All my cat stuffing tubes never touch the water....well above the sponsons.

Could be that rudder...it is very deep for a hull that size...great cornering but could give more problems.

I do not think it is the hull dips. Will get mine runnign soon but can't find a motor mount anywhere so I may cut my own. I think more power to the hull may fix this bounce.

[Jesse J]

Imma gonna fixicate me up a tunnel flap. It solved the hopping of the twintruder and don't know why it wudnt werk here.......................... will post when installicated

[Jeff Wohlt]

Yep, could be the trick, Jesse.

[bigpapa]

cool jesse can't wait to see if it does the trick

[bigpapa]

jeff is it possible to put a bearing in the stock strut or will you have a bearing strut to replace the factory one

[Jeff Wohlt]

I am looking at mine in the next day or so but my first reaction is yes. Not sure if that nose pulls out or will have to be cut off and turned to sit back in there.

Really just need to measure the OD of it so I know there will be enough wall for strength.

[bigpapa]

kool keep me posted please the .062 wire wks awsome

[Jeff Wohlt]

On 4S it should with that motor. I am using a Leopard 2000 or a 2200 I have with 4S and a big prop so not sure how the 62 would hold up. Bouncing is not good on drives. I may go 78 and remove the liner but that is a big tube for wire.

That teflon only runs half way so maybe replacing that to full length and the 78 will go in easier. I also might have some better teflon with smaller ID to work in the tube.

MAde my own cooling jacket with PVC pipe and 2mm o-rings and fits perfect! About $3 in parts. I will still seal it with silicone when installed. Pics to come.

[bigpapa]

kool wanna see pics 4 sure got to turnigy 2600 kv on the way one might end up in the geico just for the hell of it .......... darin ran a p230 on stock set up and said it handled it well, temps were fine he said...... may give that a try also he seems to think more power may be the answer also.........

[Jeff Wohlt]

Yep...I also think it is just below where it needs to be to ride well. This will show when we step them up about 15 mph.

[bigpapa]

kinda wanna see what effect the xtra power does 4 sure to the boat

[Darin Jordan]

I found out last night that a stock Speedmaster strut will fit right into the existing brackets, but you'll have to redrill the hole for mounting it.

The nose on on the strut is actually attached to the stuffing tube, and inserts into a recess in the strut. I do think it will come off the stuffing tube with a little coaxing, but I also found that if I open up the tip of the strut to 17/64, it fits right onto the existing cone... it's a little loose, however... The stock strut is actually 6.5mm (.255") ID.

I've removed the stock bushings in the strut. Mine has a spacer section in the middle of it that is actually a perfect ID for a stock SpeedMaster style sleeve bushing. I'm going to build up the rest of the strut ID with some brass tubing and fit the strut with this type of bushing. I'll get some pics as I make progress.

I'm also planning on relocating the rudder off to the right, and forward to get it out of the thrust cone. I have a suspicion that any bounce is going to "mysteriously" disappear once that's accomplished. I suspect that it's being caused by the prop thrust making cyclic contact with the underside of the rudder mounting hardware, and that it seemingly is going away for some people when the run props with a smaller thrust cone, that throws the water back more than up.

Just a suspicion, but I'm going to investigate it to prove/disprove the theory. I figured out a way to use the stock rudder hardware to accomplish this.

More to come.

[johnf]

Seems I've read of people using an m445 and having the bounce go away. How would the thrust cone of that prop compare to the x642 Todd is running?

[bigpapa]

awsome good talking to u last night , cannot wait to see what u come up with and the outcome

[bigpapa]

hmmmmmmmmm m445 i may just have one to try :)