SV27 Props

[ice329]

Could someone who really knows the props give some info or tips on them. I could give some limited info on a few but I have not compared enough to really give a good description.

If there is a experianced prop person here please put them all in one posting.


The stock prop - gives the boat good lift, turns good, decent speed, cavitates some on take off.

CF42 - turns good, not to much lift, slow with 6 cells, good coarse prop with 7 cells

CF45 - turns OK, more lift then 42, decent speed, good for 6 or 7 cells or LiPo's

CF48 - Tight turns are tough, more lift then the 45, good speed, dont run wet/watch all temps, quality 6 cell packs, a beast with LiPo's

[Steven Vaccaro]

Joey as you go up in diameter the prop torque with try to roll the boat.
To combat that use a smaller diameter prop with more pitch to it. Like the Octura x6 series. I like the x642 on my sv. Unfortunately there are no x6 series carbon props.

[Darin Jordan]

Unfortunately there are no x6 series carbon props.

Steve... Are you sure?? According to my prop charts.. aren't the Graupner "M-Series" props 1.6 pitch ratio props?? For example:

M42 - 1.6 Pitch Ratio, 1.654 diameter (42mm), 2.640 Pitch

I don't recall for certain, but I think these are thread-on 4mm props... but I was able to convert them to fit onto a standard 3/16" shaft using a stepped 3/16" reamer and a little patience in a drill press... Had to file the notch into them for the drive-dog as well, but they work pretty well...

[Steven Vaccaro]

There are props that can be modified. Graupner make s "s" series. But if someone was going to go though the trouble of converting a m4 thread to 3/16", they may as well balance the proper prop.

I have done the m4 to 3/16 conversion. It works well on lower power, small boats. But the drive dog slots take a beating with the larger boats and get deformed.

[Darin Jordan]

It works well on lower power, small boats. But the drive dog slots take a beating with the larger boats and get deformed.

I agree....... I'm done with Carbon props altogether... Had to finish one too many races with only one of the two blades still intact... Plus, they just sound wierd! :rolleyes:

[Steven Vaccaro]

I agree....... I'm done with Carbon props altogether... Had to finish one too many races with only one of the two blades still intact...

You have? Thats strange. I have been using them for many, many years without issue. I have a few podium finishes with them also.

[Darin Jordan]

You have? Thats strange. I have been using them for many, many years without issue. I have a few podium finishes with them also.

Yup... For example... had my DPI AD N2-Sport loose a blade last year (still won the heat... they do say that the "ideal" prop only has one blade! )... and we've already had one SV27 loose a prop blade this season...

But then, I'm pretty good at prepping my own metal props, so I prefer to just go that route... The Carbon ones are a great option for finding out which metal prop you may want, however... I still have a box full of them that I ordered from you last season that I use for getting things close... then I make a metal prop to replace it...

[Steven Vaccaro]

I run my Drifter M with a Lehner 2250 with a carbon prop and 24-32 cells and never lost a blade. Maybe I'm just lucky

[SJFE]

If I may add 2 cents. I have busted my stock SV prop on what I think was a stump. I then hit the same thing with a 42mm CF prop and didnt even have a nic.....I am not a fan of the stock SV prop. I have 3 and have waisted 2. I dont even know what I hit with the second. I put my 45mm back on..ran the same area for a while and no damage. I swear by cf props. I cant do metal props so they are not an afordable option. Well to be honest..I'm just not intrested learing yet.

[ice329]

What would be the differnce between a X642 and the M545. The pitches look similer but what would the props do differnt to the boat?

[hookedup]

... but I was able to convert them to fit onto a standard 3/16" shaft using a stepped 3/16" reamer and a little patience in a drill press... Had to file the notch into them for the drive-dog as well, but they work pretty well...

i just got an order from OSE with a few of the "m" series CF graupner props with the intention of converting them to go on my SV27 and an OM21, but after taking a good look at them, it seems like as much work as doing up a metal prop (which i am getting better at by the way)...so i guess they will just sit for now.

[Steven Vaccaro]

In smaller boats the conversion works great.

[Darin Jordan]

... it seems like as much work as doing up a metal prop (which i am getting better at by the way)...so i guess they will just sit for now.

No-No-No.... it's pretty easy...

I use a bench-mounted disc sander to sand down the pointed tip, then use that now flat surface to set the prop on while I carefully drill/ream out the threaded portion to fit a 3/16" shaft... Then use my Dremel with a cutting wheel on it to cut out the slot for the drive dog... DONE... Takes about 5-minutes each...

My metal props take upwards of an hour each to get balanced and sharpened, and that doesn't include any time polishing them, since I don't bother with that step at this point... (I'm of the opinion that it makes LITTLE performance difference, if any, and in fact may hurt in some cases....)

[ice329]

Here is a quick Vid of a stock SV27 with a CF48 useing a matched set of 6 cell BattlePack IB3600's.

Goose wasnt to happy. Boat is tough to turn as you can see but she boogies

http://s110.photobucket.com/albums/n...t=100_0319.flv

[jrod703]

i ran my sv27 yesterday on a pair of the 6 cell NiCd sport packs i got from OSE some time back. with the 48mm CF prop the batteries got very hot very fast hopefully i didn't kill them - they power my old boat!

i'm going to try another run today on some bigger packs - 7 cell flat pack 3600s. i'm hoping this will turn out better. if not i'll have to back the prop down a size or two...

not to stray from the topic at hand, but does anyone have any advice on the max temp of battery packs before you start to see problems or failed cells? probably not an exact science but if i can get some rough estimates i won't hold you to them (shouldn't be too off topic as prop size influences amp draw right? if it is just tell me, i may be new, but i can learn :D )

[Darin Jordan]

I would try to keep your cells under 150 or 160 degrees... My race cells used to get up to 180, but they wouldn't last long at those temps...


Guys... I know it's difficult for some to consider, but I would REALLY advise you guys give up on this NiMH deal with these, and just make the plunge into Lipos...

A pair of MaxAmps 4000 or 5000 or ??? mah 2S1P Lipo packs with Deans connectors will give you more power than any pair of 7-cell Nimh packs, WAY less heat, and WAY more runtime... WAY more speed... WAY more useful cycles... WAY easier charging... WAY...

You are fighting an uphill battle with NiMh on all fronts... They are heavy, short lived, have high resistance... have to be "peaked" get to prime performance... and don't, can't, and will NOT provide the same power as an equivalent Lipo pack...

I've run mine in P-Mono heat races with not other mods than a HUGE prop, a bigger turn-fin, and a pair of 2S1P 3300 mah Lipos... and it's a ROCKET... Quick, Fast, and Stable... It's even faster with the 2S1P 4500mah 30C packs I tried last time out...

If you insist on using NiMH... you are going to be limited on prop size, and if you are buying "cheap" sport packs, then they are going to run warmer... that's what makes them "sport" packs... more internal resistance and less peak V...

I know money is tight... but I'm telling you... a one-time investment in an approriate set of Lipos, which can be charged on any Triton 2 or ICE charger, will pay back big time in longevity and performance...

[SJFE]

With all do respect DJ,
You will have to pry my BattlePacks out from between my cold dead fingers:D..lol

[avengersteve]

what about 3 blade props?
Pros
COns?

[hookedup]

No-No-No.... it's pretty easy...

I use a bench-mounted disc sander to sand down the pointed tip, then use that now flat surface to set the prop on while I carefully drill/ream out the threaded portion to fit a 3/16" shaft... Then use my Dremel with a cutting wheel on it to cut out the slot for the drive dog... DONE... Takes about 5-minutes each

yes, thanks darin, i tried it just like you said and it was pretty easy. way faster than a metal prop. i kind of tore up the groove for the drive dog, but it works.

[ice329]

I picked up a few props from OSE. I wanted to balance/sharpen and polish them myself. I dug in and compleated the job last night on both props. It was.... not hard but not easy and who knows if I did it as good as a expert but I think there more then acceptable. Anyways I got a X642 and a M445. I tryed both props with differnt set ups in the SV today. Both ran smooth with no vibrations. The X642 is a much more stable prop then the M445 but I have to say there is a clear winner between the two. The M445 although not as stable, is my choice with 6 or seven cells. I charged up my LiPo's.... A stock SV with a pair of LiPo's and a M445 is by far the fastest most radical set up I ran so far. Its SICK fast. You definatly need to trim down.

For the guy who wants a radical/quick/fast beast SV27, how ever you want to describe it, the M445 and a set of the IB3600's or LiPo's !

[pugman2]

how does the 440 that grim recomends rate i havent tryed anything acept stock yet im running ib 3600s

[Jeepers]

ICE329 the props you got, X642 & an m545, 445 the differnce is diameter and pitch, look on this site at the propellers, steve has the numbers listed for each prop so that should help. oh we have found that the M series props are thicker and heavier than X series props and our setups were getting hot using M props (180dg) x props (120dg) so most of us make M series props out of Xseries props.

[ozboater]

just curious.. would you guys recommend the CF48 for all round use ?? i like the way it goes, especially off the mark, but it sure does heat the motor up... as a rule of thumb, what would be the max temp i d wanna have on this motor without long or short term damage :)

[Steven Vaccaro]

I ran one yesterday. The 48 is much faster and does pull more amps. The 45mm is a better choice for my kids sv boats, because I have better take off with less torque roll. Means less time for me chasing flipped boats.

[ozboater]

steven, have you noticed much overall difference between the CF48 and 45 ?

[SJFE]

I noticed the 48 was harded on the stock power system temp wise with not all that much gain in speed. I am out of the loop now after the up grade....Back to square one.

[Steven Vaccaro]

steven, have you noticed much overall difference between the CF48 and 45 ?

The 45 is slower. The kids like to see me try to fit my fat butt into the tiny kayak so they don't mind flipping them. So I have to practice restraint and prop down. That's much of why I use it on the kids boats. This boat runs great at 30mph. Its tough to flip at that speed. I like to run mine on the edge with the 48, or better yet a x642 is my favorite.

[ozboater]

thanks for the info... excuse my ignorance, but the x642 is a 2 bladed prop yeah ?? how would you compare the x642 to the CF48 ??

stoked newbie here :)... appreciate the fast shipping on the goodies i ordered as well.. top notch service...

cheers

[longballlumber]

Hello All,

I have read the entire prop thread for the SV27, but I don’t have a clear suggestion for relative choppy water. What prop has been working the best in choppy water?

Thanks
Mike

[Steven Vaccaro]

Slow the boat down. We run on a huge lake in New Hampshire. If we tried to run a 40mph boat on this lake it would be upside down 90% of the time. I run a 45mm carbon prop. Its faster out of the hole but around 27-30mph top speed.