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Thread: Crack in Transom, Both hulls......

  1. #1
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    Default Crack in Transom, Both hulls......

    My friend and I both got SuperVeeR's about a month and a half ago. They have about 20 to 30 runs on them, mostly on Nimh's so not over speeded. Both have outside transome cracks on them. The crack runs across the full transome, centering on the bottom strut bolt. No inside breech yet but has anyone else seen this ? Looks like a molding layup problem to me. Any suggestions ?? And hey Aquacraft, how about a new hull ?????

    Stringfly <>++++
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    Looks like they cracked along the seam between the deck and hull. Isn't there a piece of ply on the inside of the transom? That should hold it together...

  3. #3
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    Is it just the paint? I havent seen it happen on the transom, but mostly the port or starboard side walls.
    Steven Vaccaro

    Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!

  4. #4
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    Most of the supervee hulls do this nothing to really worry about.
    Prince 25 8XL,Delta force 29 8XL, SV27,Rio 51,Mini Rio,Stock Miss Geico m445,ERBE,Baja 5B SS, Hyper ST, Castle Emaxx.

  5. #5
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    I had a crack go all the way in the same location. I was running and the rudder hit some debris and the rudder bracket tried to pull all the way through the transom which resulted in a crack through the transom. I wasn't using a break-away bolt on the on the rudder so at wot hitting the debris all the stess pulled out on the lower bracket bolt . I repaired the crack and starting using a nylon bolt problem solved.
    - Diesel's Youtube
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  6. #6
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    Thanks guys,,,, yes it does just look like the gel coat paint top layer on on the outside.
    Not sure about plywood on the inside, all you can see is fiber glass. May be one under that but not sure. The bolt plates are against fiberglass. Don't no of any hits I have had though. Rudder and turn fins are sharpened and no hit indications on them at all. I quess I will just try to run some thin CA in it and keep a eye on it. Does OSE offer the nylon bolts just in case ????

    Stringfly <>+++++

  7. #7
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    If the boat has plywood on the transom its not the "R" version.

    But it sounds like yours is the R

    Rock and Roll

    Grim

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by stringfly View Post
    Does OSE offer the nylon bolts just in case ????

    Stringfly <>+++++
    Take a quick trip to your local hardware store, they will have nylon bolts.

    Later,
    Mike

  9. #9
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    Default R

    Mine is the 27R and no ply in the transome that is visible. If I push the strut up or down a slight amount the crack will open and close....not good. I did run thin ca down the crack and let it dry throughly. It does not open now when I tweek the strut but doubt this is going to last very long. Guess we will see. Aquacraft needs to do better on this hull for the cost. Other than this though I still like the boat and the way it runs.

    Stringfly <>+++++
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  10. #10
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    Default do this bud

    strip it and reinforce everything with fiberglass except the top deck area on the inside it will hadle and "crash" better.I relayed mine up and it is way stronger now on the sides and transom where it is weak at the seam.I used a bondo 13 dollar fiberglass kit..done.search the sv section here for other ideas too

  11. #11
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    Newbie here. Don't mean to hijack this thread but I recently purchased a 27R and have about 6 runs on it. The crack started to form when I ran it today. There was a bit of chop but I wasn't running all out, just cruising. I love the boat. Its quick and easy to maintain but its frustrating spending the money and have something like this happen so quick. Basically, the transom can't take the chop and there was a design flaw there obviously. Oh well, will just have to reinforce it. Can I get something on this site to fix it?

  12. #12
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    SV pilots

    The SVR has a bulker laminate on the transom now and not the plywood. The plywood would shrink and swell between long rests away from the pond causing leaking and what not...

    We started testing with a bulker..

    sorry some dont like it..

    ... if this boat was shoe box.. it would do the same thing.. you would just never see it..

    Lets race!

    Grim

  13. #13
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    What is the bulker? Seems it isn't working out so well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rumdog View Post
    What is the bulker? Seems it isn't working out so well.
    I think what he meant ot say was the transom is bulkier as in it is more thicker.


    That crack is right along where the top half of the hull meets the bottom half.
    Come on guys, everyone who has owned a SV in the past KNOWS that these boats are prone to cracked in this area.


    Here is a terrific shot of my old boat.
    See the crack along the side?
    Maybe its not on the transom, but this is exactly where the top half
    of the hull meets the bottom half.
    There is a seam that runs all the way around the boat.

    You know this!!


    Z
    KBB34" Mono - Fast
    ToySport Triton- Not as fast

  15. #15
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    Thanks Z400 for chiming in..

    Still got that wicked 1/8 mile monster?

    The transom now uses a bulker laminate and not the plywood..

    No need to get into details but its a thickener/strengthener that does not shrink and swell from wet to dry.

    Past that point its still from the older SV molds so the seam line did not change.

    Rocket and roll!

    Grim

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grimracer View Post
    Thanks Z400 for chiming in..

    Still got that wicked 1/8 mile monster?



    Grim
    Yup, still got it!
    Running low 5.90's high 5.80's now.
    Weren't you going to be restoring a Mustang sometime?
    Still living out there in Beringer? I havent been out that way in quite a while.
    Miss running out there at the ponds.


    Ah back on topic, the cracks on my SV, it earned those cracks.
    I ut that boat through alot of abuse before i sold it.
    And it was still a very solid 55-62mph boat.
    Z
    KBB34" Mono - Fast
    ToySport Triton- Not as fast

  17. #17
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    Well, if mine cracks along the side seams like that one very soon I will be very dissapointed in this "Aquacraft hull." 20 to 30 mild runs should NOT start a hull cracking! I will have to rocket and roll to another Mfg. next time for sure.

    Stringfly <>++++++

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    Are you saying yours is not cracked yet.. but. you are already threatening to change MFGs if and when yours might..

    Hum...

    Good enough then there are lots of good boats out there to chose from

    Rocket......and ROLL...............

    Grim

  19. #19
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    O yea.. I fly HPR.. the reasion for the ROCKET in Rocket and Roll!

    GR

  20. #20
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    lol Mike
    Z
    KBB34" Mono - Fast
    ToySport Triton- Not as fast

  21. #21
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    Read the thread. My transom is cracked and my friends is cracked after less than 30 runs. NOT GOOD !!!! I will be running my Miss Geico tomorrow.

    Stringfly

  22. #22
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    I guess these boats are supposed to be bullet proof and built to last forever.
    Z
    KBB34" Mono - Fast
    ToySport Triton- Not as fast

  23. #23
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    Default Jeezzz..

    No.... but less than 30 runs on Nimh's ????? The product should not do this. At 329.00.... ouch.

    Stringfly <>+++++

  24. #24
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    Mike, you need to start making these boats out of concrete.
    Z
    KBB34" Mono - Fast
    ToySport Triton- Not as fast

  25. #25
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    Not bullet proof. But, they are apparently cracking for no reason, there is not even a transom doubler. It should be the most rigid part of the boat. ALL the hardware is mounted there. I don't think it's acceptable. Neither should you. The hull had enough problems with cracking seams before. Now they hiked the price , and the hull is even weaker. Why are you backing this?

  26. #26
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    It's been said the doubler (wood) weakens when wet. If built correctly it should be epoxy sealed wood. Therefore it shouldn't be bothered by water. Also, if taping the hull, which should be done on all FE boats, you shouldn't be getting enough water inside to be effecting wood transom doublers. Can you think of another high quality mono with no transom doubler?

  27. #27
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    Let me just say this. Is there a reason that someone should not be upset with a hull that is cracking for no good reason?

  28. #28
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    Mine cracked after the first run... really not that big a deal. the problem for me was the hole at the nose that was covered up by the gel coat. The gel coat started chipping off and by the 4th run, the hole was big enough and started leaking water into the hull. That's when I called it quits for the season and rebuild for the winter. But by next spring, it will be stupid fast and heavily reinforced.
    SV27r 7XL / Shockwave 26rs 8L

  29. #29
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    Thanks for the comments Rumdog. If it had been my hull only..... well I would have just thought, stuff happens, that's the nature of R/C..... but both our hulls, that's a design problem. A third friend also bought one with us but have not checked with him yet. (that's 3 SuperVee sales!) We got these within a week of each other and have run them together almost every weekend. My friend has put in thin aluminum plates on the inside of his and he hopes that should stabilize it. I will probably be doing it to mine. I still like the boat, fun to run, fast with lots of action in it. Over all everything else has worked great.
    I am new to FE boats but have been doing R/C since 1970. I do have other boats now and will be running the SuperVee less but was wanting others opinions on this and suggestions. Thanks for all comments.

    Stringfly <>+++++
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  30. #30
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    Its not that ply can not be made strong enough.. it can.. its not that ply can not be sealed.. Because.. well we know it can too!

    What I do know however is plywood will shrink and swell over running and storage time and "Might" cause the hardware to come loose.. Letting water in..

    I race allot of wood boats.. each year its best to reset the hardware "OR" risk water in the water tight areas.



    The trasom on the SVR has a bulker lamianate.. it does not shrink or swell.. maybe I said this before!

    Grim

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