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Thread: Miss Geico Race Prep

  1. #31
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    Gps picture was 5s.
    FE BOATING: Less like a hobby and more like an addiction!

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brushless55 View Post
    Was that speed on 5s or 4s?
    36.1mph on 4, 46.4mph on 5. Check the vid I love this cat...

    to Darin on this great cat.


    I still have to post the vid I have of my apache saving my MG. Solder joint on my batt came loose left the mg stranded... It must have been a late night because when i removed the heat shrink that solder job sucked Im surprised it lasted a year like it did. I must have been drunk soldering again "shame on you diesel "
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  3. #33
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    How smooth is the PB esc in this compared to say a Swordfish/Turnigy?

    Is it more like a Suppo or Hacker with less steps and not that smooth?

    Just curious...
    Nortavlag Bulc

  4. #34
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    I just bought the larger octura coupler with the two set screws, man, it doesn't look like it will fit without trimming the flexshaft housing. It would need to be shortened up a bit.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    How smooth is the PB esc in this compared to say a Swordfish/Turnigy?

    Is it more like a Suppo or Hacker with less steps and not that smooth?

    Just curious...
    To be honest with you it is really not that bad. WAY better than the SV 45amp esc that's for sure. I didn't notice any hickups or issues. For a RTR esc it's gets a
    - Diesel's Youtube
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    "It is easier to be wise for others than for ourselves"

  6. #36
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    Default Ready to go.

    Mines all ready to go. (with correct flex drive) Since my friend has one I had to add some color to mine just so they would not look identical. Day glo orange monokote trim. Is it bright enough now !!!! Will be running tomorrow. Hopefully with video of both running together. Printed some different decals also.

    Thanks OSE for the quick shipping.

    Stringfly <>+++++
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  7. #37

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    You could blind someone with that thing

  8. #38
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    looks sweet...i like the geico powersports stickers

  9. #39
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    love the orange looks better then stock yellow
    MY RETIREMENT PLAN?????.....POWERBALL
    74 vintage kirby clasic hydro, pursuit mono, mg, 47'' mono, popeye hydro...

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by tacticalretreat View Post
    looks sweet...i like the geico powersports stickers
    It looks great with the orange too.

    Where did those decals come from?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by ray schrauwen View Post
    It looks great with the orange too.

    Where did those decals come from?
    Of course you would think so.....................

  12. #42
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  13. #43
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    OK... FINALLY got around to doing some prep work for the Miss G for Offshore Racing...

    Pretty basic. Fist step, Get the sponsons flat, true, and sharp.

    After block sanding just a tad, it is obvious that filler is necessary, so used some Evercoat light body filler and a flat spreader and filled in the ride pad surfaces, then block sanded once it was set. One pass was plenty. They flattened out nicely.

    Next step was to sharpen the edges. To do this, material needed to be added. Again, using the same filler, I used some pieces of aluminum angle, that has perfect 90-degee inside corners, to spread the filler along the inside edges of the sponsons. I trimed down a piece of angle to make it small enough to spread the filler on the trailing edges of the sponsons as well.
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  14. #44
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    Once everything is setup... block sand, block sand, block sand... get the inside edges and the trailing edges as sharp as you can. I didn't spend any time on the outside edges with the filler. I think they are OK as is for now.
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  15. #45
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    Welcome back Darin I was wondering when you were gonna take your thread back over!
    FE BOATING: Less like a hobby and more like an addiction!

  16. #46
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    Once the sanding of the initial filler was done, I did some additional filling with spot filler to really clean things up and sanded this down as well.

    With all the sanding done and everything cleaned up, I made sure that the sponsons sat true on my setup board. Inside edges of sponsons should rest cleanly on the setup board with minimal or no daylight under them from the transom forward for a few inches in front of the first vent. Sharp and true, cornering should be rock solid.

    I applied a couple of light coats of primer, then a couple of coats of Duplicolor Bright White.

    Edges are now very sharp and clean.
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  17. #47
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    Time to work on the power system, just to add some reliability.

    I replaced the motor leads with 5.5mm contacts and the battery leads with 6mm. I take the Y out of the stock ESC, instead Y-ing the batteries together with their own leads (connect them in series).

    I replaced the coupler with an Octua coupler and added a thrust washer. To install the coupler, I had to increase the width of the flat on the output shaft with a dremmel. The sloted holes in the motor mount allow it to be slid forward to get the additional clearance for the longer stub.

    Add a little velcro to the battery trays, and we're ready to go.
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  18. #48
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    Octura also makes a short version of the 5x150 coupler that will fit easier.

    Looks good Darin. Doing about the same on mine. Going to run a Leopard 2200 and 4s and start with a x445

  19. #49
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    so will flatening the botoms out stop the bounce or just make it turn better?
    MY RETIREMENT PLAN?????.....POWERBALL
    74 vintage kirby clasic hydro, pursuit mono, mg, 47'' mono, popeye hydro...

  20. #50
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    Now... for the RACE report!

    We had our final PSFEMBC Race today, so I took the Geico to run in Offshore.

    Leaving the strut set in it's factory delivered location, I put on an X645 and a pair or ThunderPower 45C 5000's, and went out for a test run.

    About 30-seconds into the run, the boat slowed considerably, then just stopped. When I got it back in, the driveshaft (an Octura replacement shaft I had fitted to it previously, but forgot to mention in my prep comments...) was siezed into the bushings on the strut. I had greesed it VERY well, but apparently the stub was a tad too tight a fit.

    I ended up pushing out the bushing and fitting it with a makeshift Speedmaster bushing setup, which wasn't ideal, but would get me through the day.

    Headed back out and made a few laps. Boat seemed OK on speed, but scrubs a LOT of speed in the turns.

    I moved the strut down slightly, and went out for the first race heat. I nailed the start and ran in the lead the entire heat, but the boat was still not fast enough. I won the heat because of clean driving, but need more speed if this is going to continue.

    For the next heat, I moved the strut down and put on a modified X547, with a bunch of cup and pitch added to it, and cut down to 44mm. Boat was faster in the straights, but still not fast enough. REALLY pinned itself down in the turns. Moving the strut down was the wrong answer. It raised the rear, but pushed down the front.

    I was running out front, by a good margin, and was trying to run "pivot" turns instead of trying to carve them smoothly. MAN this boat can corner hard!

    Unfortuneately, I pivoted it a little too hard at the wrong moment and hit another wake, dropping into the trough and tripping on the outside of the sponson. Boat flipped and I was done.

    Good news is, however, that it was sitting out there for 3 laps, and when I recovered it, not a DROP of water had gotten inside. I only used a little piece of tape to hold down the hatch, but otherwise, it was all the secondary hatch. Nicely done!

    We would up racing early due to the team having to calculate season points for everyone. While they were tallying up the points, I went back to the bench and put a Prather 230 prop. Tired of messing around. Let's see what this thing can really do.

    Boat was QUITE a bit faster with this prop. Still not quite where it needs to be, but way quicker and still cornered on rails. VERY easy to drive too, and rock stable in the turns. A little bit of bouncing still, but very drivable and lots of tuning to do.

    After about 2-minutes of running the motor temps were 117-degrees...
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  21. #51
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    Darin, this may have a close match for the green, either the Lime green or Candy lime green with just the righ base coat.
    http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/cat...d=61500&page=1

    I really like their paint, expensive but, nice!
    Nortavlag Bulc

  22. #52
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    So... where to go from here.

    First... I'm not completely sold on the rudder directly behind the prop. It works, but I think it's really scrubbing off speed in the turns. We discussed it today and Scott Bickford suggested that perhaps moving the rudder back from the prop a bit more might help to get it out of the initial thrust cone of the prop.

    I'm considering doing this, or moving the rudder off to the side. Neither NEEDs to be done, I'm just thinking that perhaps that's something to consider for a future tweak.

    I'm going to remove the hardware and "V" the bottom surfaces of all hardware the encounters prop spray to allow it to pass by the hardware without introducing additional lift.

    Seeing as I've seized the bushings in this strut, I'm either going to replace it with a SpeedMaster or ??? strut, or I'm going to modify this one to correctly accept a SpeedMaster bushing.

    Otherwise, I think it's just a matter of getting the balance right, playing with the strut height, and honing in on the right prop/setup combo.

    Can't wait for the offshore races next season!!
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  23. #53
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    so what did the bottom fixing do or suposed to have fixed? just wondering if i should do it or not...my bigest prob is the bounce right now ...i used a 215 prop and ran well but hopped like a rabbit
    MY RETIREMENT PLAN?????.....POWERBALL
    74 vintage kirby clasic hydro, pursuit mono, mg, 47'' mono, popeye hydro...

  24. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by ron1950 View Post
    so what did the bottom fixing do or suposed to have fixed? just wondering if i should do it or not...my bigest prob is the bounce right now ...i used a 215 prop and ran well but hopped like a rabbit
    Cleaning up the bottom makes the boat run more efficiently. It allows the water to cleanly break off the wetted surfaces. Cleaning up the inside of the sponsons and making them sharp enhances the cornering and getting rid of the recesses in the sponson bottoms gets rid of "suction cups" on the ride pads... making them run more consistently and faster.

    From what I could tell today, the "bounce" is cleaned up by proper balance with the cells, strut position, and prop... Listen to some of the guys posting here and you'll get there. I had mine bounce a little too, but would switch props and it would subside, so I know that it's setup.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  25. #55
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    thanks man.....i can tell ya the stiletto prop doesent help it out on the bounce with strut in factory trim....lowered it and will see what happens tomorrow if weather is good
    MY RETIREMENT PLAN?????.....POWERBALL
    74 vintage kirby clasic hydro, pursuit mono, mg, 47'' mono, popeye hydro...

  26. #56
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    Forgot to mention... I also used 2-part expanding foam in the front of the sponsons, which got rid of the little bit of flexing in the tub in this area. I did this BEFORE I started the blueprinting on the bottom. You can see the foam in this pic.

    This added a little more weight to the nose, which is why my CG was a little more forward than I would have liked, even with the cells all the way at the back of the boat.

    I did, however, talk to someone this evening who runs theirs with the cells at the front of the battery trays (6500 cells at that) and theirs handles great, so it's all in getting the right combination for your running conditions.
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    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  27. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by ron1950 View Post
    thanks man.....i can tell ya the stiletto prop doesent help it out on the bounce with strut in factory trim....lowered it and will see what happens tomorrow if weather is good
    The Prather series props have a good deal of lift, but I ran mine with a Prather 230 on it today and it was pretty good.

    I'm wondering if some of the bouncing could be coming from prop spray hitting the bottom of the hardware in the back?? There are some wide flat surfaces there that are in a direct shot of the thrust cone... Hmmmmmm... I'll have to take a look at that.
    Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
    "Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."

  28. #58
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    Darin, I thought I would post this in here to help everybody who is following this thread. I made a little mod to the rudder bracket so it's easier to take off. (without having to take the bolts all the way out) Used a bandsaw and a file to get the edges cleaned up. Works good and bolts stay in the bracket instead of on the floor where most stuff ends up in my basement.
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    FE BOATING: Less like a hobby and more like an addiction!

  29. #59
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    Why not just make a quick release rudder break-away bolt and then just pivot the rudder?
    Nortavlag Bulc

  30. #60
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    I was gonna do that but the rod connector does not like that much movement.
    FE BOATING: Less like a hobby and more like an addiction!

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