Let's not get personal
This is a great thread that Darin started, many of us use this as a tutorial.
Please show us some class... Surely someone who is as knowledgeable as you are would possess some of that quality.
Let's not get personal
This is a great thread that Darin started, many of us use this as a tutorial.
Please show us some class... Surely someone who is as knowledgeable as you are would possess some of that quality.
WHAT exactly is your point?? Why don't you just come out and say what's on your mind? I'd love to know why you are harassing me in this way?
The Mystic "Minus-Two" is a Pro Boat Mystic that I took the overhang off of, blue-printed the STOCK ride-pads, and put an extended strut mount on to put the prop EXACTLY back where it started. It uses a STOCK Miss Geico/Mystic Flex Cable at it's STOCK length... I think I may have had to trim 1/4" off or whatever to get the gap just right.
The point it that this hull uses all the factory ride surfaces, and the ONLY reason I took the overhang off was so it would be legal in N2. The ride surfaces, geometry, etc. are all stock, other than being blueprinted. It runs just like any of my other FIVE or so Pro Boat cats...
In case you were interested in knowing, this same boat also won the N2 Hydro National Championship, running 2S2P 10,000mah total (Thunder Power 70C 5000 mAh 2S packs X 2), a Castle Hydra 240, and a Neu 1515 0.5Y, turning what started out as an Octura X440/3-blade prop... Yes, that means 6-Laps around a 1/6th Mile oval course in race water against Riggers.... for 4-heats... finishing 1st, 2nd, 2nd, 2nd, with 5-boats in the heat... I suppose you'll say that never happened either??
I really think you need to stop trying to slander me and prove some non-existent point, especially on a thread I started to try to pass on the information I know about how to setup and enjoy these boats, and just spit out what you are trying to say.
Otherwise, I'm done with you, because you are acting childish and are wasting all our time. We've tried to help you. You then turn on us? Seriously, Dude???
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Manny let's get back on track. Darin has a long list of records and trophies to prove his worth. I don't see a need to question his integrity.
Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk
Steven Vaccaro
Where Racing on a Budget is a Reality!
wow
hey...has anyone tried a wiper on front of cat?? does it really help with blow over??
Slow progress: but most of wah-wah-wah is gone. trued ride pads, strut raised above last step at neutral setting.
Proboat 1800 kv motor, 4s2p.
With M445 prop:
With x642 prop:
looking good..i keep trying to free up my boat..its fast now..but borderline blow over in race waters..trying real fine adjustments now..gonna try and pick some brains at wwx this weekend on props..wish me luck
Awesome..are u going to be there??
I've experienced a good number of "roll-overs" as I tried to push her too hard through the turns in rough water, but rarely, if ever, have I "blown" it off.
Then, I'm only running P-Limited power systems, so that might be why.
Anything faster than a P-Limited system, however, can hardly be considered "slow" in my opinion...
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
I was poking fun at myself, I am having a great time using the ProBoat motors I bought from you. Yes, it doesn't run as fast as a 4082/2200kv, ( I got the boat from someone with a 4082/2200kv motor and was advised to use 6s and a x642 prop) , and that was without any work done on the ride pads! I will not elaborate my crash course learning curve after that start.
I can run all day just for fun with the proboat motor.
I posted here just to show my appreciation for your tutorial thread, it's been a fun learning experience and the more I read/run the more I have learned.
Thanks Darin!
Last edited by tlandauer; 02-20-2014 at 02:28 PM. Reason: additional info .
great thread, very informative. except for the negative blip know as mannytx1, that is. Best thread on the MG I have read to date.
Having the wiper in the front will break up and reduce the air going underneath the boat. It does reduce blowovers and a little speed IMO. Properchopper does put them on his boats and can explain what it does better than I can. I bought a MM he used to race with and it came with a piece of wiper blade
Hi,
I use an airdam on my shovelnose hydro, but not on the Miss Geico. BTW it has no effect on bouncing (tried that before I blueprinted). Best setup I've found is strut up high (I run mine with propshaft about 1/8 inch above the bottom of the sponson-- just enough to see a gap if the boat is on a flat board), and blueprinted sponsons. Batteries pretty far back. My son races it in p-limited offshore and it will only blowover if there is a lot of headwind (he runs stock motor/esc 4S with x642 prop). With the blueprinted sponsons the bounce is gone.
There's another thread in the Miss Geico V2 section that I started that has a strut modification that allows for a tad of negative angle to be put in the strut which also really helps cut down on the bouncing if you don't want to blueprint. It involves filing the strut slot a little bit to allow for angle changes when the strut is in the high position (on stock, if you set the strut high it tends to add some positive angle which is what you don't want).
I love this boat!
Chief
Just wanted to quickly thank everybody who contributed to this thread. I learned a ton.
The BJ29 is my first boat and I have a lot of tuning to do I see. 4s2p is where I'm starting with a x642 and the BHChieftain rudder/strut mod.
That thing is huge!
Grand River Marine Modellers
https://www.facebook.com/search/top/...ne%20modellers
Anyone with a Geico 3V, can you show me (with a pic) about where you are placing your batteries??
I'm putting my about 1 inch from the back of the battery tray. and the front close to top of the motor.
Anyone else??
I put mine (stock BJ29V3) all the way the back FWIW. For any newcomers like myself. Keep this forum going.
I'll be in the mix of things here as soon as I get mine.
Proboat Voracity-E 36" , Proboat Zelos 36 Twin , Proboat Miss Geico 29" , Traxxas Spartan, Fightercat Daytona, Zonda
Hey guys, I believe this is my first post.
I've had a version 2 (60 amp speed control) miss geico 29 for two summers now and love it, but have never been able to get the porpoising to stop.
I've blueprinted the hull (nice and flat sponsons, not as sharp as they could be on the edges but better than stock) raised the strut so the boat can sit on both sponsons on a level table, played with the strut angle (slight negative, slight positive, neutral), strut height (while typically keeping the strut high enough up so the sponsons sit flat), and battery placement. I've ran it with the batteries far enough back that the boat wants to flip going into the wind, and far enough forward that the boat runs rather wet, and seemingly everywhere in between. I was wondering what you guys have done to get the porpoising minimized?
The boat is all stock except for an OSE strut with the lead teflon bushings, and a sharpened and balanced prather s220. I run 2s 5000mah packs in series. I've noticed that the slightest bit of turn input stops the porpoising, but it comes back as soon as the steering is let off.
Does anyone have a link to somewhere that has a good guide for what various adjustments will do on catamarans?
I have a v2 120 seaking ESC, Prather 220 prop and aquacraft motor (can't remember the specs) OSE V2 flex and Turnigy Graphene packs. Thing runs like nobody business but I wanna know why I have left and right movement with my prop shaft.
Proboat Voracity-E 36" , Proboat Zelos 36 Twin , Proboat Miss Geico 29" , Traxxas Spartan, Fightercat Daytona, Zonda
As in play in the brass bushing? Probably a worn bushing from running out of balance propellers, or just from regular wear over time. I just replaced mine with the OSE strut with lead teflon bushings and the tolerance is much better than my old worn proboat bushing.
How are the graphene packs? What specific ones? I would like a set.
I will try and get a video of it sometime over this weekend. But if u hold the prop, u can basically move it left to right with maybe a mm or 2 play. I have the Turnigy 2S 5000mah Graphenes. I noticed more take off response and a bit more punch. Only my second run with it but wanna sort of the geico first before really getting into it.
Proboat Voracity-E 36" , Proboat Zelos 36 Twin , Proboat Miss Geico 29" , Traxxas Spartan, Fightercat Daytona, Zonda
Yeah that sounds to me like your bushing is just worn. The upgrade strut with the lead teflon bushings is only 15 dollars or so from OSE, I certainly have way less side to side play than I did before. I had enough play prior to the upgrade that I was having issues keeping water out of the hull for a 4 minute run. Since the replacement the flex still has loads of grease left on it after a 4 minute run whereas prior it would lose basically all the grease in the same time frame.
You could also possibly replace with lead teflon bushings yourself, but I wouldn't know where to start. I guess you would need to find the bushing with the proper specs, then use a dull drill bit to try and spin out the brass ones.
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