Flexdrive cable adjustment

[Deserthobbies]

would 5000 mah 50c be overkill?

my 40C's dont even get warm. and thats running it hard down a 1/4 mile pond

[shotimes95]

thats good. what would the 20c's do? would the electronics be strained or the batteries? proboat told me that theres not a noticable difference between the 20c and 25c. cause i can only afford to buy 1 set of 50c's and i have 2 sets of lipower 7.4v 20c, 30 burst. What would you do? you know more than i do

[Deserthobbies]

thats good. what would the 20c's do? would the electronics be strained or the batteries? proboat told me that theres not a noticable difference between the 20c and 25c. cause i can only afford to buy 1 set of 50c's and i have 2 sets of lipower 7.4v 20c, 30 burst. What would you do? you know more than i do

you will probably be ok, just watch your temps on the wires and batterys , lipos wont strain as bad as NIMH batterys do. I have some good quality NIMH and they get hot as hell before they are run down half way. my 40 C lipos are the same temp after running hard as they were when i put them in the boat.

[shotimes95]

on the battery wires or the esc wires? and also could i use 2 3s 11.1v lipos? i wanna run it hard but not ruin it. other threads say it can handle a total of 6s but im not sure. Thanks for being so understanding... im asking all the questions LOL

[Deserthobbies]

on the battery wires or the esc wires? and also could i use 2 3s 11.1v lipos? i wanna run it hard but not ruin it. other threads say it can handle a total of 6s but im not sure. Thanks for being so understanding... im asking all the questions LOL

The motor is rated for 6 cells but not the ESC, The esc is only rated for 21 volts.

[shotimes95]

Just picked up 2 orion carbon 45c 5400mah lipos... now just need a x642

[forescott]

Hey shotimes, I think 50c is way overkill. 40c is probably too. 25-30c burst rate is perfect. Anything more wont gain any more performance. It will just drain the packs quicker. 40-50c packs are used more for larger can motors that require a lot more juice.

[forescott]

Hey Desert, have you thought about using jb weld epoxy for that flexshaft?? I'm pretty sure thats how most of the flex cable/prop shafts are joined nowadays.

[Fluid]

Most commercial cables are still soldered/brazed. I'd definately not trust JB, that function is not what it is designed for and its viscosity precludes the tightest joint fit. Permatex sleeve retaining compound has a great history of success, even in SAW boats.


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[shotimes95]

Hey shotimes, I think 50c is way overkill. 40c is probably too. 25-30c burst rate is perfect. Anything more wont gain any more performance. It will just drain the packs quicker. 40-50c packs are used more for larger can motors that require a lot more juice.

I figured it may be but i can use them in other vehicles of mine. I couldnt pass up the price for the orion packs! The packs i have are 30c burst and the stock props keep exploding once the boat comes out of the water and back in... Im not sure why but thats why its a hobby lol

[forescott]

Most commercial cables are still soldered/brazed. I'd definately not trust JB, that function is not what it is designed for and its viscosity precludes the tightest joint fit. Permatex sleeve retaining compound has a great history of success, even in SAW boats.


/

Thanks for the info fluid, I learn something new everyday!

[forescott]

I figured it may be but i can use them in other vehicles of mine. I couldnt pass up the price for the orion packs! The packs i have are 30c burst and the stock props keep exploding once the boat comes out of the water and back in... Im not sure why but thats why its a hobby lol

By exploding do you mean cavitating? Spinning free and then grabbing again.

[shotimes95]

By exploding do you mean cavitating? Spinning free and then grabbing again.

the prop breaks apart and only the center is left on the shaft by the retaining nut afterwards..

[Deserthobbies]

the prop breaks apart and only the center is left on the shaft by the retaining nut afterwards..

that will hapen to the stock props they rev when they leave the water and when they come back in contact with the water its like hitting a brick.

[Deserthobbies]

Hey Desert, have you thought about using jb weld epoxy for that flexshaft?? I'm pretty sure thats how most of the flex cable/prop shafts are joined nowadays.

no way JB weld will hold , ill silver solder it or braze it with a brass rod.

[Deserthobbies]

Hey shotimes, I think 50c is way overkill. 40c is probably too. 25-30c burst rate is perfect. Anything more wont gain any more performance. It will just drain the packs quicker. 40-50c packs are used more for larger can motors that require a lot more juice.

I will have to disagree with you being a retired industrial electrical engineer. take your wattage the motor pulls and if you feed it what it wants or requires everything will run cooler. its as simple as the old PIE theory. if your batteries get hot then they cannot discharge what the controller and motor are calling for. its simple math. and basic electricity.

[lectriglide]

the stock props keep exploding once the boat comes out of the water and back in... Im not sure why but thats why its a hobby lol

Don't tighten the prop nut against the prop so much, just enough to where it won't let the prop "back-up" off the drive dog. It puts stress/tension on the plastic and makes it shatter.

[lectriglide]

thats good. what would the 20c's do? would the electronics be strained or the batteries? proboat told me that theres not a noticable difference between the 20c and 25c. cause i can only afford to buy 1 set of 50c's and i have 2 sets of lipower 7.4v 20c, 30 burst. What would you do? you know more than i do

The stock esc is only rated at 45 amps. Your 4000mah 20c batteries will deliver 80 amps constant, 120 burst. The 20c batteries will do just fine for that motor and esc.

[Deserthobbies]

The stock esc is only rated at 45 amps. Your 4000mah 20c batteries will deliver 80 amps constant, 120 burst. The 20c batteries will do just fine for that motor and esc.

Then why does proboat tech notes state a battery with a minimum of 25C. for the fastech, and it does state minimum. the 20 C wil lwork but ill bet they get hotter than hell.

[shotimes95]

Don't tighten the prop nut against the prop so much, just enough to where it won't let the prop "back-up" off the drive dog. It puts stress/tension on the plastic and makes it shatter.

I think your right. I was a bit snug when i backed it off!!

[Deserthobbies]

I think your right. I was a bit snug when i backed it off!!

PM me your address and ill send you a sharpened and balanced X642 and you will never use a stock plastic prop again.

[lectriglide]

Then why does proboat tech notes state a battery with a minimum of 25C. for the fastech, and it does state minimum. the 20 C wil lwork but ill bet they get hotter than hell.

They only get hot when the system is stressing the lipos by trying to draw the limits of what the batteries can provide. I've run 7.4 5000mah 20c turnigy batteries for over a year, sometimes till the lvc (3.4) cuts in and they are just warm at most. Many others run the same batteries with absolutely no ill effects. The racers preheat their lipos to 110 to get the best performance out of them so I guess it depends on what "hot" is (over 130 to me)

[forescott]

I will have to disagree with you being a retired industrial electrical engineer. take your wattage the motor pulls and if you feed it what it wants or requires everything will run cooler. its as simple as the old PIE theory. if your batteries get hot then they cannot discharge what the controller and motor are calling for. its simple math. and basic electricity.

I am certainly not an electrical engineer, but I do know that if your 20c lipos are getting hot, then you need to get some better batteries. I've run plenty of 20c packs in all of my boats, some with higher amp ratings than the proboat, and haven't had any heat issues with any of em. Keep in mind that a lot of companies over-rate their products to make a sale. A lot of e-bay stores are famous for this. I've seen plenty of guys buy inexpensive lipos and wonder why they get super-hot or burn up. In my opinion anything above 30c on the stock proboat electronics is a waste.

[shotimes95]

I am certainly not an electrical engineer, but I do know that if your 20c lipos are getting hot, then you need to get some better batteries. I've run plenty of 20c packs in all of my boats, some with higher amp ratings than the proboat, and haven't had any heat issues with any of em. Keep in mind that a lot of companies over-rate their products to make a sale. A lot of e-bay stores are famous for this. I've seen plenty of guys buy inexpensive lipos and wonder why they get super-hot or burn up. In my opinion anything above 30c on the stock proboat electronics is a waste.

So are the lipower venom batteries I use some of the lower quality? U prolly read what kind they are from reading the thread but ill refresh ur mind LOL, there lipower 20c 30c burst and 4000mah. I know there a good battery for bashing but ok for the boat? Im not gonna destroy my electronics using the orion carbon 5400mah 45c 90c burst lipos? I bought a pair of those and was gonna use them too. I havent got a straight answer yet... Whats ur thoughts?

[forescott]

I know the older venom lipos got a lot of bad reviews from guys here on the forum. I have a pair of 5400 20c 3s that have worked excellent for me for 2-years. I could'nt say about the new ones. If you haven't already, you really gotta check out Hobbyking.com and their turnigy lipo batteries. Shipping is pricey from hong kong, and it takes about 10-days to receive em, but they are super inexpensive and are excellent packs. I have over a dozen and I think they are awesome!

[shotimes95]

I know the older venom lipos got a lot of bad reviews from guys here on the forum. I have a pair of 5400 20c 3s that have worked excellent for me for 2-years. I could'nt say about the new ones. If you haven't already, you really gotta check out Hobbyking.com and their turnigy lipo batteries. Shipping is pricey from hong kong, and it takes about 10-days to receive em, but they are super inexpensive and are excellent packs. I have over a dozen and I think they are awesome!

Ive read that the ones from HK, usually get a few bad ones in a 10 piece order and its very expensive to ship them back if u get a bad one...

[forescott]

I've been hearing that recently too. But I'm still getting packs shipped to me in 10-days and haven't had a bad one yet. Most recent purchase was received just last week. I dunno, I may be just lucky, but there is a lot of happy ose members that have nothing but good things to say about em as well.