NEW Proboat 24 cat problem...

[SweetZ28]

So my new boat came in so i give it a dRY run test to see if all is working and i notice the motor wobbling up and down like a 1/4 inch!! So i try to realine the motor cupler and it still wobbled up and down like crazy!! this thing is damaged right.... so i call horizon hobby who i purchased it from and they won't send me a replacement! They say i have to send it into them and they will have there tech guy's fix it then send it back!!!! This is a brand new boat they should just replace it with a new one if it's damaged ..that's how i see it...so they won't so I won't be ever ordering from them again and they will lose a valued customer since i buy all types of RC's from them all the time....I sent them a E-mail and told them this...I will have to wait and see what they say now!
Geees what a bad day!

I told the tech guy why if he is going to be working on the boat i may as well try and fix it myself by buying a new coupler ...thing is it's so short i don't know if there is one that short with a U joint or flex shaft..have a CEN coupler i bought here from Steve and that looked short but it's still to long to fit!


O the JOY what to do....

[wickedgmc]

That does suck, but either way you are going to have to send it back to them before they do anything for you. They may replace it (you would have to wait a while as they are out of stock again) or they may have the part that is needed to repair it and get it back into your hands.

The problem is not every problem is a problem, not saying what you have going on is not a problem because it sounds like it is. Perfect example was when the SV 27 came out people said it would not run, but they had no idea they had to arm the esc every time.

If you think you can fix it then that is what I would do, but if you want to press the issue you will have to send the boat to them.

And when you tell them you will never buy from them again not too sure it would affect there process at all. As you have 2 major hobby shop suppliers, Great Planes and Horizon so even if you don't get your stuff from them there is still a ton of there stuff at your LHS. Very sad, but very true

I have had good luck with Horizon for warranty stuff though

So bottom line if you can fix it, fix it!

[Fluid]

When an on-line seller has a warranty issue they usually require you to return the product to the manufacturer. Because HH "makes" the ProBoat line, they instruct you to send the model back to them for warranty inspection and repair. This is all spelled out in the instruction book and on line - send the boat back to them after you obtain a RMA.

With a relatively costly item like this, it is expensive to have it sent back and forth but that is the only way that HH can know that the item was not damaged by the buyer. The internet is full of dishonest folks who would lie to the seller. HH has to protect themselves. If this was a $20 motor then they would probably just send a replacement, but not for a boat that lists for $449.

Threatening a seller like you did only serves to demonstrate how unreasonable the buyer is. I would be surprised if they change their stance. Personally I'd never make such a threat....but then I'm a bit older than you are.


.

[wickedgmc]

you said that much better than I did Fluid

[SweetZ28]

Hi the boat is only $139.00 it's the new Apache 24.
I bought tons of stuff from HH and i feel they should respect me more and grant a return as it is new and never used...
Also if this was tower hobbies that i deal with alot there would be no ?'s asked about a return on a unused broken defective product...it happend to me a few times from some things i got from tower and they always returned it and replaced it for a new product... HH is just not good about this kind of stuff..

O and by the way I got you by 2 years! 37

:D Anyone know of a really short u joint cupler for 550 size motors?
look how small it is?

[SweetZ28]

Anyone know if it Would matter if i moved the motor by adding some type of spacer behind it or the motor mount like a 1/2 inch faward towards the front of the boat more so i can fit the cen u joint cupler in there?
Or will moving the motor a 1/2 inch tawards the front of the boat do somthing performance wise?

Thanks

[SJFE]

Moving it a quarter inch should be "ok". Try to off set that weight by moving the battery some to even it out.

[SJFE]

Oh and you need to come down south and run with us Sunday :D.

[Fluid]

O and by the way I got you by 2 years! 37

Sorry sonny - I got you by about two decades.

I am not familiar with whatever hull that is, but moving the motor 1/2" should not matter as long as there is still proper alilgnment with the driveline. It will move the CG a tiny bit, but you can compensate by moving the packs back.

.

[SweetZ28]

:D SJFE I can't move the batt it sits in one of those tray type things?
Think it would really matter though? Think about it if you where to use a 3000ma pack and lets say a 5000ma pack the 5000 would be much more weight than the 3000?

I don't know what i should do but i always hate those solid cuplers if somethings a hair off they alway make a loud vibration where as the U joints flex and make for a much smoother connection...:D Just may be worth hacking some stuff up to get the U joint to fit:D

[SweetZ28]

well scap the idea of putting a new motor cupler this boat stinks!
The cupler is one side fits 550 motor and the other side is smaller...like 3mm small!!
Do they even make U joint cuplers like this?

So with that I am sending it right back to horizon hobby this boat has to be the cheapest made boat i ever seen all the u joints are wobbely and way out of round...Warning to anyone considering buying one DON'T DO IT!

Now i will have to ship this thing back and lose all the $$ for shipping!!

Why don't they use a better drive line it's so rediculous how crappy it is...

[SJFE]

Well it is a new boat man. Bound to be a few bumps in the road. Personly I would just replace the drive cable with a good unit from OSE straight through to the propshaft. Do away with the Ujoints. You can fit a brass bushing in that outdrive for a 3/16th propshaft. Look @ Deigoboy's post in the BJ BL thread for an example. I think with a few cheap mods you will have a fun little boat. You are gona spend the money on shipping anyway. Why not spend it on parts and have fun. :)

[SJFE]

Why waist the money on shippin it back. Pick up a cable from OSE. knock out the brash bushings and use a peice of K&S for a 3/16th propshaft bushing. See Deigoboys post in the Blackjcak brushless thread. It will run smooth a butter. Not to mention thecoupler problem will be solved & prop selection will be better on top of it :D.

[SweetZ28]

Guy's if you can please make a list of the parts i would need i could probably do it..... I do not know what i would need to get.... That's the main problem

[SJFE]

PM Deigoboy. He has done it.

[SweetZ28]

Thanks PM sent

[SweetZ28]

Hi SJFE One good ? how do i get the old brass pipe out off the hull? and also if it did come out would't i have to install a larger brass pipe?
If so it will be impossible with this hull it's sealed inside you cant access the pipe?

[Rex R]

some pictures of the current driveline would be helpful. also what is the hull made of? hmmm lets see...oh right, are you going to keep this motor and please if poss get a good measurement of the current driveshaft dia.

[SweetZ28]

Hi it looks like 3mm on my mic ... the 550 motor side was to big and the shaft side for the long rod was to small to fit on the 550 4mm motor shaft.
here is alot of pic's of the boat
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=PRB3400

[Rex R]

If it were mine and if I were to keep the same motor...I think I would try a 0.098 flex shaft w/ liner. it might just fit in the stock tube.

[SweetZ28]

Hi Rex i think this may slip straight into the stock brass tube...this is a flex cable right?
Could you run these in brass tubing?
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=hug-e1068

Rex that .98 might be a good idea...but i wonder what the total OD is with the teflon tube on the flex cable?

[Steven Vaccaro]

How long is the coupler? I have 1/8" to 3mm straight couplers instock. Maybe if its to long I can cut it for you. I cant see how the coupler can be 1/4" out of whack. Can it be something else?

[Rex R]

yes one could run that cable(.13") w/o a liner...but it is likely to not fit your stuffing tube.
if it is that far out then I would think that something is bent.

[SweetZ28]

Thanks guy's
I am going to have to take her apart and get some measurments of the shaft size.
Steve the whole set up is so cheap the long rod they use looks so poorly made that the ends of it where they supposed to have a flat spot ground on them looks so junky it looks like they had guy's on a assembly line grind a quick spot on them with a big grinding wheel the cut out on the shaft is so un even and crooked it's not funny.. poor quality for sure.... If i can get a flex unit to fit inside the standard brass pipe it will be my best bet ....I will need to mic the inside diameter of the stuffing tube and maybe you can get me some measurments of the .98 flex shaft with the outer teflon tub on the total OD of the teflon tube ...maybe i can stuff that in the stock tube and run the .98 in side it... or maybe go with the 125 flex shaft if i could run it inside the stock tube without the teflon tube?

[Steven Vaccaro]

outside of the .098 telfon measures .145
Outside of the .130 teflon measures about .200
Now both of those measurements are not exact. Teflon varies in sizes.

[SweetZ28]

Steve i just did a measurment looks like 3mm the stuffing tube what can i do?

[Steven Vaccaro]

3mm is about .120. The stuffing tube looks much larger in the pictures.
Is the shaft 3mm running in bushings with a larger outer tube? Or is the inner diameter of the stuffing tube 3mm all the way to the transom?

[Diegoboy]

Sorry for the delay guys. My ISP had the neighborhood out of service all day for an "upgrade"
Anyway, Here's the mod I did to the Pro Boat BJ, & Pro Boat Mini-V. Would have done the SW26 if I didn't get the Jet drive...
This is going to be difficult to explain since I have never seen the apache.

*Note: I didn't pull the stuffing tube on the BJ because it was already the right size!

Parts list:
.130 flex shaft with 3/16 stub shaft (.098 - 1/8 for the Mini-V)
#130 Brass tube (7/32 x .014) <-- Strut bushings
1/4 brass tube <--Stuffing tube
Octura Coupler Flex Hex 5mm to .130 Cable Short <-- Brushless motor
-----> or <-----
Octura Coupler Flex Hex 1/8" to .130 Cable <-- Stock motor
Sleeve retainer like loctite 603 (If you don't buy the assembled flex cable)
7/32 drill bit
1/4 drill bit


Instructions:
Pull out the Motor
Pull out the drive shaft
Remove the strudder
Using needle nose pliers, Grab the stuffing tube in the boat, and twist to free it from the silicone or epoxy holding it in place. If it widens the opening in the transom a bit, don't worry because the new tube will be a bit bigger.
Pull the stuffing tube out through the back of the boat after it breaks loose.
Drill the transom hole for the tube with the 1/4 bit
Drill the other end with the 1/4 bit also
Cut the 1/4 tube to the same length as the stock tube removed
Install the 1/4 tube in the hull, Use epoxy to hold it in place
Remove the brass bushings from the strudder (short piece at each end)
Drill the strudder with the 7/23 bit.
Measure and cut the 7/32 tube to the length of the strudder (1 piece)
Install the 7/32 tube in the strudder
Assemble the flex shaft (if needed)
Install the teflon liner in the stuffing tube, cut to length (to the back end of the strudder)
Grease and install the flex cable in the boat
Couple it to your motor that I forgot to tell you to install.
Add a prop... I think you can take it from there.

[SweetZ28]

Steve i think it's 3mm all the way through...will have to check again..

[Doozie870]

Z28, I mainly run solid shaft boats, even with perfect alignment and ball bearing support I have never been able to direct couple the drive shaft to the motor without vibration, lots of it. My Mhz flash would almost jump off the table when i first ran it.. Assuming the shaft is straight (pull it and roll on a smooth surface) you may be able to get some of the thump out by loosening and rotating the coupler 1/8 turn on both shafts, do a bench test, you should find out quickly if your going the right way, then tweek it with smaller changes, down to just the motor side then the shaft side, until you find the sweet spot. Its going to be a on going issue everytime you hit something. If you cannot get a coupler with some give between the motor and shaft, a small flex cable system would be great also.