Stiletto Race Prep

**simo71** · 10-07-2010, 09:50 PM

Originally Posted by 50mph

As for the programing, the only way to program your ESC is to use the program card. Your transmitter cant be used to pragram the ESC.

I think you will find that you can...Just follow the manual for the ESC that was included with the documents that come with your stiletto.

**ron1950** · 10-10-2010, 02:04 PM

just got back from lake.....a news paper photo guy took some nice pics of stiletto and mg hope to post one or two when he sends them along.....stiletto is still alot slower then the mg....still needs a prop that wont make it get too hot and still run faster....tryed a 642 and plugs got very warm but not hot....may have to try it again...today was stock prop......

open to all suggestions on props....440/3 ran HOT 642 ran Warm but not too bad....whats everyone else running that seems to go faster? thanks

**heli123** · 10-10-2010, 05:19 PM

This boat is starting to annoy me I rarely run it anymore high amp draw and no speed 35mph is the best I can get,if you are racing you better change electronics or you will loose every time.This boat is a toy for kids!

**Rumdog** · 10-10-2010, 05:48 PM

Why don't you take the time to learn about proper setup before you go dissing the boat. Tunnels are not the best choice for beginners.

**ron1950** · 10-10-2010, 05:59 PM

instead of everyone comeing down on each other why dont you share with me what is working prop wise on this boat...642 has worked best for me so far but will get warm....

**Rumdog** · 10-10-2010, 06:06 PM

Originally Posted by Darin Jordan

Ron, there are a lot of factors that can come into play. Driving style, etc., all come into play.

If you are our running around, making a lot of tight turns, using partial throttle a lot (like when you turn the ESC down to logarithm... you are only getting 80% throttle), the boat won't be running as efficiently as it would if it were flying fast and loose.

My setups are for racing. Long straights, followed by 35' radius turns, all usually at or near full throttle, and the boat running as light as practical.

Anything less than this, and you'll need to detune some.

In my experience thus far, with this hull, and with this motor, is that it can be run all day long on the stock prop when setup correctly. As you start to tune it up, and make it faster, temps will build. Of the props I've tested, the 42x55 seems to be a good compromise for speed vs. temps, but even that is going to take away some run-time. The X642 should perform well, but it has more pitch yet, (67mm vs 55mm), so it may further reduce run time and increase heat.

Here ya go. Not coming down on anyone. Just stating fact. If you don't like the performance, once it is set up proper, then make upgrades. Easy enough. It is a RTR. A 45mph rtr tunnel would have even more setup issues. You cant expect to pull it from the box and pop on a prop and have it run perfect.

**ron1950** · 10-10-2010, 06:21 PM

tryed the 42x55 didnt care for that one as it seemed slower then stock prop....no gps or anything.....i will prob stick with 642 right now....what do u think of a 440/3 on the miss gieco? heat or a problem? it really caused high temps on stilleto.

**Brushless55** · 10-10-2010, 07:29 PM

Originally Posted by heli123

This boat is starting to annoy me I rarely run it anymore high amp draw and no speed 35mph is the best I can get,if you are racing you better change electronics or you will loose every time.This boat is a toy for kids!

It's all in your setup

**GP73** · 10-10-2010, 10:21 PM

I'm using a X437/3 S&P and I like the results, I really can't tell the speed but it's not that hot after each run, I'll check the temps again tomorrow and let you know.

It was getting hot with the GrimRacer 40x52/3, but I was using that raw.

What temps are you getting with the X642?

Has anyone noticed if the drive shaft is getting looser with time? I can move shaft about 2mm in each direction.

Originally Posted by ron1950

tryed the 42x55 didnt care for that one as it seemed slower then stock prop....no gps or anything.....i will prob stick with 642 right now....what do u think of a 440/3 on the miss gieco? heat or a problem? it really caused high temps on stilleto.

**ron1950** · 10-10-2010, 10:51 PM

i dont have speeds on the 642 but deans get high warm but not too hot to touch etc. noticable speed increase over stock prop.

**Doby** · 10-10-2010, 11:06 PM

Ditch the Deans.

**GP73** · 10-11-2010, 12:55 AM

I bought one of these at a LHS for $20:

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=DYN2529

It's probably not very accurate, but it will give you an idea...

Doesn't take much to get deans hot, so yes, ditch them and use 5.5mm bullets (or bigger).

Originally Posted by ron1950

i dont have speeds on the 642 but deans get high warm but not too hot to touch etc. noticable speed increase over stock prop.

**ron1950** · 10-11-2010, 08:00 PM

got a few more problems now then i had yesterday lol.....took out the stellito today,,,,,ran well till i didt see a real boat wake come into the cove....boat hit wake wave and flew sideways stil on gas and it ran up on the rocks..flipped over and had some bad damage to the right sponson,,,,,a fiberglass man can fix it but thats not me........bummer . sence i was only 6 feet off shore when i hit the wave there was no time to even let off trigger......
ordered a new hull today lol...also noticed after the crash that the driveshaft is wobbling at the prop maybe moves a mm or so...anyone else haveing that problem?

**Rumdog** · 10-11-2010, 09:35 PM

Have you done the lower unit mods that Darin suggested?

**ron1950** · 10-11-2010, 09:56 PM

as a mater of fact...yes

anyone ever order a hull only from proboat? how bare hull only is it anyway? just fiberglass and paint or what>?

**AndyKunz** · 10-12-2010, 10:10 AM

Depends on the hull. You get what the picture shows. Usually that means all the glass parts, plus what is needed that's actually part of the hull.

Andy

**ron1950** · 10-12-2010, 02:14 PM

andy still not pics on your site of stiletto parts etc...any idea if i have to order a couple of packs of boots?

**AndyKunz** · 10-12-2010, 03:40 PM

My Stiletto came w/o boots. It was hull, center section, and radio box lid.

Andy

**ron1950** · 10-12-2010, 03:49 PM

thanks andy

**Darin Jordan** · 10-12-2010, 04:17 PM

Originally Posted by ron1950

thanks andy

One thing I was thinking about on this boat is actually getting rid of the rubber boots, especially around the steering cables, and using teflon tubing inside of aluminum or brass there instead, then running the teflon/nylon tubing the whole length of the cable... More like they do on the VS-1. I think this would give better clearance around the battery cover, and would also look cleaner, and likely be easier to seal. Just haven't gotten around to doing it yet.

**AndyKunz** · 10-12-2010, 05:28 PM

Ron,

You have to enable PM's if you want me to reply!

Andy

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**ron1950** · 10-12-2010, 06:04 PM

sorry andy thought they wer on ...at least they were before the server kept going down...ill try again thanks

thanks think i got it fixed now

**ron1950** · 10-13-2010, 05:51 PM

andy, got my new hull today and set it up as best i can without the boots.....heres what the bare hull includes 1) bare hull with decals applied! thats it......i was most disapointed with the fact that it has a drain hole in it but no rubber gasket or drain plug......come on for 138 dollars at least give a guy a water tight hull.....also no battery cover or reciver cover but i did have those from wrecked boat....u know how hard it is to get the old drain plug rubber gasket out without wrecking it? lol.....now i may be all wet here (pun intended) but i would think it could have been a little more generious ...just my 2 cents

**simo71** · 10-13-2010, 07:47 PM

I'm not to sure why you guys are finding the boat slow? While mine is not a bullet I had no problems playing with a 40" cat last saturday which runs leopard 40mm power on 4s.

What I have I done to mine?
After it torpedoed a larger gas boat that decided to turn left in front of me I block sanded the bottom of sponsons apart from the repairs that I did.

I got rid of the sheer pin on the drive dog & tapped it, added grub screw & filed a flat spot on the prop shaft...It now has a small amount of play but is much more free. & I am able to now pull the stub apart for maintenance.

I run a grim three blade 40/53

I have set my motor height at 88.5mm (boat set on stand & measure from setup bench to base of cav plate)

Motor angle is set at 12.5mm from center of adjust bolt (bottom for motor trim) to edge of motor mount.

The boat now is a dream to drive & does not hook in the turns.

**AndyKunz** · 10-14-2010, 08:43 AM

Ron,

Drain plugs are PRB4004 - $2.99.

Personally, I think the hull package for $135 is a pretty good deal.

Andy

**ron1950** · 10-14-2010, 01:42 PM

ya then why is it 122.oo on the net? and your free shipping that is 13.95 handling? id say i got taken lol

**Rumdog** · 10-14-2010, 03:54 PM

I'd say if you're that worried about a few bucks, then maybe you should be more frugal shopper.

**ron1950** · 10-14-2010, 03:58 PM

u got that right...i always find the deal after i buy retail lol.. i was just looking to see where he parked his goat anyway lol

**GP73** · 10-15-2010, 02:32 AM

Originally Posted by simo71

Motor angle is set at 12.5mm from center of adjust bolt (bottom for motor trim) to edge of motor mount.

That sounds almost straight, do you mind posting a picture from the side? Mine is probably not setup correctly then:

95mm for the table to the bottom of the cav plate, measured at the back of the plate

26mm from the motor mount plate to the center of the lower trim bolt.

Which means that it's probably too high and too much positive angle. I do mount both batteries in front, which batts are you using (weight?) and how do you position them?

**ron1950** · 10-15-2010, 10:04 AM

i got about the same measurements and the motor is very close to stright

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