Stiletto Race Prep

[ron1950]

darin school me here....mine ran hot on 440/3 stock but s and bal.....is it running too fast or just putting too much strain on the motor and esc ot what? went back to stock prop.....ran well no heating issues but went to linier (spelling lol) on esc and went about as fast as the 440 had made it on slower setting....explane what would cause hotter running ...too big or too small etc and whateffect will the 642 do for me if u can predict oh great swammie! thanks

[GP73]

I mean smaller as in both diameter, and pitch, compared to the BJ26 motors.

Too small, however, and it may cause the boat to not have enough lift/thrust, etc., and might not run as freely.

Like I've said before, I've had good luck with the 440/3 and with the 42x55. Still lots of playing around to do before I figure out exactly what I like on her... The 440/3 had been pitched up slightly as well...

Good stuff, so you never got around to trying that Y537/3 I take.

I thought 42x55 was too big, but I'll try one now! As soon as I can find a replacement flex shaft.

Thanks!

[Darin Jordan]

darin school me here....mine ran hot on 440/3 stock but s and bal.....is it running too fast or just putting too much strain on the motor and esc ot what? went back to stock prop.....ran well no heating issues but went to linier (spelling lol) on esc and went about as fast as the 440 had made it on slower setting....explane what would cause hotter running ...too big or too small etc and whateffect will the 642 do for me if u can predict oh great swammie! thanks

Ron, there are a lot of factors that can come into play. Driving style, etc., all come into play.

If you are our running around, making a lot of tight turns, using partial throttle a lot (like when you turn the ESC down to logarithm... you are only getting 80% throttle), the boat won't be running as efficiently as it would if it were flying fast and loose.

My setups are for racing. Long straights, followed by 35' radius turns, all usually at or near full throttle, and the boat running as light as practical.

Anything less than this, and you'll need to detune some.

In my experience thus far, with this hull, and with this motor, is that it can be run all day long on the stock prop when setup correctly. As you start to tune it up, and make it faster, temps will build. Of the props I've tested, the 42x55 seems to be a good compromise for speed vs. temps, but even that is going to take away some run-time. The X642 should perform well, but it has more pitch yet, (67mm vs 55mm), so it may further reduce run time and increase heat.

[D. Newland]

I'll just throw this out there. On my older OPC (TS-2), when I changed from an X642 to a X440/3, it required a much different drive trim setting. I don't recall exactly what change was necessary, but the prop lift characteristics w/the X440/3 were different than an X642.

[Darin Jordan]

I'll just throw this out there. On my older OPC (TS-2), when I changed from an X642 to a X440/3, it required a much different drive trim setting. I don't recall exactly what change was necessary, but the prop lift characteristics w/the X440/3 were different than an X642.

Certainly. As I've stated before, mine was back-cut about .030" and had some pitch and a little cupping added.

Guys... I've only run this boat for a short time (less than a season) and certainly don't have it all figured out. You'll need to play around with it to see what works for you. I am only giving you starting points.

The majority of the initial testing, prior to production, was working with an out of the box setup, with a little testing with some slightly bigger props. That's why I recommend the 42x55 as a nice starting point for upgrading. I know the boat works well with this, and it shouldn't be too much for it. You'll have to play with things from there.

As David points out, props aren't just a matter of bolting on one and having it work, vs. another.... they are pretty complicated pieces that I don't even come close to fully understanding yet.

Another prop that might be a good upgrade would be to stay in the Prather series. The stock prop is basically a Prather 215, so you might try a Prather 220, or 225 as an upgrade. These would have similar lift characteristics, but more diameter and pitch as you go up in numbers.

[50mph]

I picked mine up on Monday, ran on Tuesday using 1 x 4S 4000 30C, ran this 6 times about 5 minutes per run. I did nothing for adjustments, everything stock and setup as the manual suggest. The water was good with a slight breeze. Poor ducks didn’t know what to think when this starting running around. The boat handles well and can be driven around turns with ease.

I don’t think I was doing 40mph, still fast enough to have fun, but I also want to try and adjust the tilt and see what changes. I will make the next runs with a 42x55 and adjust the tilt to bring the nose down, just a tiny bit. I am pleased with this boat; I like the looks, better battery compartment than others found on the net (Well the others I was looking at), it’s a blast to drive and looks great screaming around on the water.

I am not impressed with the paint job, (not a deal breaker) the hull has areas that seemed to be missed or wasn’t prepared properly. I may have 6 to 7 areas that the paint didn’t coat along edges and 2 or 3 spots looked like someone spot painted with a dab of paint, almost like they used a small brush. It does not leak (I sealed the spar holes) so it is sealed, I only took the advise posted here and seal the front spar holes with Shoo Goo. These are not sealed because air will go in one side with the other plugged and enter the inside.


Just my 2 cents

1. Seal the spar holes up front where the hatch slides into. Darin mentioned this
2. As posted here, remove the two small grub screws in the lower unit for drainage. Darin mentioned this
3. Use one of the set screws to secure the rear of the steering arm. Darin mentioned this
4. Take a piece of heat shrink and cover the three wires to the motor where they enter the cover, leave a little overlapping on each side, this will help prevent the wires from being cut by the motor cover.
5. Not that it does not work, but the battery compartment cover could have been done better. Darin mentioned the possibility of looking into an idea of making one. I am waiting on his idea to appear.
6. Not sure what the hole was for between the RXVR compartment and battery compartment, I sealed it.

[Darin Jordan]

I am not impressed with the paint job, (not a deal breaker) the hull has areas that seemed to be missed or wasn’t prepared properly. I may have 6 to 7 areas that the paint didn’t coat along edges and 2 or 3 spots looked like someone spot painted with a dab of paint, almost like they used a small brush.

Paint seems to be inconsistent, it would appear. I just received a brand new, directly out of stock one yesterday, and it looks fantastic.

Make sure you feedback to ProBoat/Horizon if you notice anything like this. Take a few minutes and call the customer service and let them know so they can provide an additional feedback path to the manufacturers.

Glad you like it, and thanks for your honest assessment.

[ron1950]

my paint was pretty good so no complaints there.....i do have to agree with the batterycompartment cover though...it could have just been a flat peace like the rx compartment for easer tapeing.....

[GP73]

my paint was pretty good so no complaints there.....i do have to agree with the batterycompartment cover though...it could have just been a flat peace like the rx compartment for easer tapeing.....

That would have been fantastic!

BTW, 93 views to my clip and not a single comment, you guys suck!

[ron1950]

i liked the vid ...not enough of em out there for my taste id love to see more of the stiletto on u tube but i cant make a vid and drive the darn thing at the same time lol...too bad your lake is frozen over all ready aaah? just kidding post some more....

[Darin Jordan]

The cover didn't turn out quite like we had planned. Was suppose to be more like that on the Miss Geico.

[ron1950]

ya i am not blaming anyone it works well just kinda hard to tape up lol

[GP73]

Quick question: what would be a good motor upgrade for the Stiletto? Nothing too crazy, just a little more power...

Maybe something that can run comfortably on 5S without overheating too much?

[GP73]

i liked the vid ...not enough of em out there for my taste id love to see more of the stiletto on u tube but i cant make a vid and drive the darn thing at the same time lol...too bad your lake is frozen over all ready aaah? just kidding post some more....

Yep, almost time to get the snowmobile out!

I'll try to make more videos, but I have your same problem...

[simo71]

Quick question: what would be a good motor upgrade for the Stiletto? Nothing too crazy, just a little more power...

Maybe something that can run comfortably on 5S without overheating too much?

Don't run this boat on 5s It does not need it & was not intended to be run on 5s. As for motor's if you want to keep it 'spec' (I would) then anything up to around the 2080kv maximum. Or you could swap out the ESC to see if it improves the power of the stiletto motor.

Do you race or intend too?

[Ub Hauled]

Darin,
wanna congratulate you (and Proboat) for this fantastic F1... it's about time "the money" talks to people that actually know what they are doing in the FE world. Jerry D. did a good job on the TS boats, but it was a bit "raw" for FE, I think the Stilleto is a great achievement, thank you.

PS: I hope you bring her down to the 2 lap or SAW, whichever one you participate... she looks fast on the video man and it has room for more!

[GP73]

Don't run this boat on 5s It does not need it & was not intended to be run on 5s. As for motor's if you want to keep it 'spec' (I would) then anything up to around the 2080kv maximum. Or you could swap out the ESC to see if it improves the power of the stiletto motor.

Do you race or intend too?

I don't race, but I don't exclude it in the future.

I have an Aquastar 90 ESC and I could try that on 5s.

Are you saying that stock spec on 5s I would fry it?

[Doby]

If you do race in the future, it won't be on 5S,,only 4S...so if you plan to race, set it up properly on 4S, learn to drive it properly and you'll be set when you want to compete.

[Darin Jordan]

I don't race, but I don't exclude it in the future.

I have an Aquastar 90 ESC and I could try that on 5s.

Are you saying that stock spec on 5s I would fry it?

I'm not sure the motor would hold up long under 5S, would be my main concern.

This motor actually turned out hotter than was originally thought... It test at 1885KV or so, unloaded... so you are looking at around 31,000RPM on 4S. That's already pretty hot.

If you want to go to 5S, which I believe people have done with PB ESCs, then I'd suggest you put in a BJ26 motor instead. You'll get the higher RPMs, but also will benefit from a motor that already has a little more mass and more torque.

[GP73]

Thanks!

I'm going to try a 1500Kv on 5s, if you see smoke call the firefighters!

[ron1950]

ok i know we have gone over this but too lazy to re read 4 pages......first time water was decent for a few weeks so took out the stiletto with a new prop grim 42/55.... slower then the stock prop as i recall.....i have a 642 is that too much or too little prop for this boat>>> the mg ran outstanding on a chuck prepared 642....give me some suggestions pls ...i dont want to burn it up just go fast as mg does.....the wires after 4 min were warm but not anywhere near hot at all seems this motor doesent like this prop at all......oh ya hitting a fish or turtle and knocking the motor angle all the way back didnt help i guess after 3 min or so....
has anyone tryed the prather 225? was wondering if its too much or what?????maybe i should just get my 440/3 cut like darins (.030 and cupped and so forth.) hmmmmmm

[Darin Jordan]

ok i know we have gone over this but too lazy to re read 4 pages......first time water was decent for a few weeks so took out the stiletto with a new prop grim 42/55.... slower then the stock prop as i recall.....i have a 642 is that too much or too little prop for this boat>>> the mg ran outstanding on a chuck prepared 642....give me some suggestions pls ...i dont want to burn it up just go fast as mg does.....the wires after 4 min were warm but not anywhere near hot at all seems this motor doesent like this prop at all......oh ya hitting a fish or turtle and knocking the motor angle all the way back didnt help i guess after 3 min or so....
has anyone tryed the prather 225? was wondering if its too much or what?????maybe i should just get my 440/3 cut like darins (.030 and cupped and so forth.) hmmmmmm

Ron,

Give the X642 a try. It's more pitch than the 42x55 and the same diameter. The Prather 225 might work too. Where is your lower unit setup in relation to the sponsons?

[ron1950]

best i can tell with a stright edge i have the prop shaft in line with the bottom of the sponsons

[heli123]

Has anyone actually tried running this boat stock on 5s yet.I want to try but little concerend,also do i need the programming card for the esc or can it be done through your transmitter-Thanks

[GP73]

I'm waiting for my batteries to arrive...

[50mph]

I have only run 4S, things get hot running 4S. I am not the expert but I would keep an eye on everything if you plan on pushing up the voltage. When I ran mine on 4S every wire and the deans were hot, maybe not too hot to worry about but heat is something I try and stay away from. As others have mentioned here, replace the deans with a larger bullet. It is strange that even on 3S the wires get hot; I am thinking the motor really pulls high amps, nothing the ESC can’t handle, but the wires should have been a lower gauge(bigger) for the higher amp draw.

[50mph]

As for the programing, the only way to program your ESC is to use the program card. Your transmitter cant be used to pragram the ESC.

[heli123]

Yea I still run deans for plugs they do get hot and they should not.My buddy runs 6s in his boat and everything is cold using deans.I think something is up here with the electronics in this boat ,not quite sure what it is yet and for a boat that does barely 35mph

[Darin Jordan]

Yea I still run deans for plugs they do get hot and they should not.My buddy runs 6s in his boat and everything is cold using deans.I think something is up here with the electronics in this boat ,not quite sure what it is yet and for a boat that does barely 35mph

A LOT has to do with setup on these boats, and also the quality of the cells, etc.

Also, the higher the voltage, the lower the amps that are required to make the same amount of power, so by upping the voltage, you are actually lowering the amps.

Also, when a boat is running freer, and faster, it has less drag on it and therefore, less heat. The key is to try to get it balanced correctly so that you have the right prop to get the speed you are looking for, without overloading the motor.

As an example... on our P-Limited Hydros... and H10 is a FAST prop, but the motor temps can run upwards of 125-degrees. If you actually PITCH UP that same prop and tweak on it a bit, (in other words, add some more pitch to it), the boat gets quite a bit faster, but actually runs about 15-degrees COOLER.

You just have to find the right combination.

OH, and, especially on these OPCs... , driving style REALLY comes into play as well...

[50mph]

OH, and, especially on these OPCs... , driving style REALLY comes into play as well...

That is the best comment I have read. My driving isnt one to follow, ducks, weeds and sometimes the dock gets in my way.