I added the cap. It was a 60 amp proboat esc.
I added the cap. It was a 60 amp proboat esc.
Miss Geico CC1515 2200kv T180 2S2S- Twin Genesis with 2 2700kv 2 T180's 4S2P- Stiletto with 2030kv T120 4S1P-DF33 4082 1600kv T180 6S2P- and lots of gassers!
Well, I have never seen a schematic of an ESC yet but I worked as an Electronic Engineer for 15 years in Silicon Valley and I have seen a lot of power units. Some take the DC input and create an AC waveform that is then Pulse Width Modulated, called a chopper stage, that can be cut on and off so the total effective power is controlled. Other things happen in the middle stages like timing and then the output drive has to match the poles of the motor like 3 phase motors we have. This is not the place to go into details but the values of a capacitor are usually made on two considerations 1) Voltage Rating and is usually twice the voltage it will be exposed to so for 14.8 input stage you would want about a 30V part but to be cheap they may have shipped with a 25V part, internally the voltages may be as high as 100V so the internal caps could be rated as high at 200V; and 2) Capacitance and this is based on how it is designed to work with other components for filtering, wave shaping, and possibly in a network to prevent back-EMF from letting spikes hit the battery or the control signal output from the RX. A chopper power supply is very noisy electronically and has to be designed also to limit the RF that would disturb the communications signal as well. So when you say you added a cap, What are you talking about? I am left clueless as to what it improves and if you are not replacing one for a higher voltage rating what are you talking about? THX and sorry about the long message. I have posted this question on other forums and I have gotten directions on how to build a necklace, LOL. Thanks for some clarity, I am open to learn everything I can about RC and EP!
I am pretty new to the electric boat world. If you do a search in this forum about adding caps you might find the answers you are looking for. I just know that a cap take the main voltage spike and are what usually fails first on the esc. You will not be replacing the caps just adding more caps. If you go to the OSE shop and look at the esc section you will find extra caps for sale. I just installed a 35v 1000uf cap on my 60amp esc. All you do is take the two wires from the cap and solder one cap lead to the positive wire on the esc and the other cap lead to the negative lead on the esc. If you do a search you will find tons of info from guys that are alot smarter than I am giving how to's on this topic. I hope this makes sence to you???
Miss Geico CC1515 2200kv T180 2S2S- Twin Genesis with 2 2700kv 2 T180's 4S2P- Stiletto with 2030kv T120 4S1P-DF33 4082 1600kv T180 6S2P- and lots of gassers!
Thanks, I saw the caps for sale and I read something on one of the threads about the top of the caps puffing out from over heating or abusive operation and they had to replace them but I hadn't read anything recently about adding them; completely different than Lipo's puffing, another $$$. I thought you probably meant putting the cab across the power leads from the battery, but I wasn't sure. This would make sense to stop spikes from hitting the battery, kind-of like an input filter, sometimes a zener diode of the right spec can be added too unless it already has one internally. Also, a lot of older electronics would die quicker from hot-plugging things and since we have no on/off switch we are kind-of hot-plugging when we connect the battery to the ESC. Even static electricity can be on our boats and right before we make a complete connection a spark can hit the ESC. Thanks, I am happy you got back to me. I am always open to learn as much as I can and will share if I can!
I got some additional info from another forum, getting off topic but I guess the older brushed motors caused problems for the AM / FM radios of the day so it was common to add caps to cut down interference. I am also assuming that the older the brushes get the more interference they cause.
It is a beautiful and sunny day here in Florida...
Last edited by SkipJack; 02-11-2012 at 01:10 PM.
Adding caps is to suppress the ripple current, the spikes between when the boat jumps out of and back into the water...creating instant heavy loads on the esc. The capacitor(s) will absorb the shock (ripple) and thus smooth out and save the esc!
Mini Cat Racing USA
www.minicatracingusa.com
Hello guys and maybe gals. I am going to run another water pick up for my 120amp ESC and let the stock one just cool the motor . Can some show me or tell me the best place to mount the pick up on the transum? I was going to put it to the right of the out board maybe a 1/2 " or so does that part stay in the water? And help would be great. I going to run the out put from the motor right coming out of the case and then the ESC I need to put the pick up on and then it can just come out of the old tube it came out of before.
Hello is this thing on!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Most of the outboards I have seen, the water pickup is behind the prop on the outdrive. I believe if you mount it on the transom the pickup tube will come out of the water when you are flying on a plane. If you mount it anywhere on the hull, e.g.; on the back of one of the sponsons I think it will effect the handling of the boat. I would guess you could drill a hole on either side of the existing pickup tube and run a brass tube externally on the outside of the outdrive and then ? take it from there.
Hope this helps, if this is what you were meaning?
So the whole trasom is out of water when running? I would think there would be some part of it still in the water when running? There was a guy on this thread who added a second water pick up but I can't find his post. Thanks for your time.
Well, I took my new boat out of the box, they sure did a good job. I ordered batteries from HK so that is like waiting for water to boil with a cigarette lighter.
I have plenty of time to race prep the boat but unfortunately the bullet plugs are coming with the batteries so that is one thing I can't do yet.
I have read all the stiletto posts I can find so it seems weird that the ESC manual says the unit ships pre-programmed for Ni-MH with brake on in soft timing mode with a linear throttle curve; and also says
"Caution: It is imperative that you do not attempt to use LiPo batteries with the ESC unless it has been properly programmed or serious damage to the batteries and electronics may occur due to over discharging"
I will keep everyone advised how it goes... Maybe someone can shed some light on this?
I went back and found on post #64 that the ESC is programmed at the factory for LiPos
Maybe if you only buy the ESC, then the manual is correct but if you buy a complete Stiletto Boat then they reprogram at the factory? See what I get for reading the manual, LOL, more confusion?
Update: I ordered a battery from a US source so I will find out if it makes toast or boils water in a few days...
THX, Harry
Last edited by SkipJack; 02-20-2012 at 11:53 PM.
I replaced the teflon on an O.S. unit and picked up considerable speed and reliability! I didn't put in an oiler though which is a good idea.
Mini Cat Racing USA
www.minicatracingusa.com
Is there anyone or anyplace that I can buy a pre-made oiler tube from?
Darin,
You have commented a few times that you would hold off on recommending what prop to use on a stock Stiletto. I can't seem to find what prop you recommend for this boat.
Heys guys I am using the oiler mod and 12amp ESC and two the cells 3600 mah 65c and I keep breaking the flex shafts. And on sun smoked the ESC?????
I've never have any problem breaking the flex shaft and I use the stock teflon liner and always lube the shaft with corrosion x oil. Im running 5s with 1600kv outrunner motor
Stiletto tunnel,EPV135 (53") twin cat, CT06"Spirit of Qatar", FD 47" mono, Twin Mini Cat 23.5"
Hey Eric check to see if there is any binding anywhere, also check where the flex exits to the motor some times you need to open it up slightly to give the cable some wriggle room, other than that I don't know without seeing it, those tubes I made for you should be ok I never had a problem with my boat with the same setup, so I'm guessing there is something binding. Call me if you want.
Socal Fe member, miss gieco castle 1515 1y t-180, blackjack29 stock,insane FE30 p sport castle 1515 1y t-180, insane FE30 p spec ul-1 motor t-120, insane 34"mono neu 1521 1.5d t-180
Okay I will take it apart today and let you know what I or don't see. I have broke two since you helped me and I putthe tube in. I have the second one still. When a shaft breaks can it then cause the inside of the tube to get wrecked from the cable breaking? Thanks
i have 2 questions what grease or oil is used to lube flex cable after coverting to brass tube? & has anyone enlarged the cooling tube & water p/u in the housing? I have started by grinding out the housing to put larger brass tube for more water flow,also I enlarged p/u. We need it here in fl
Personally, I use 'Tri-Flow' in the spray can after every run. It's lower resistance than a grease and the oiler mod makes this super easy to do!
ps: I also pull the flex shaft out, at the end of the day, and store it in a ziploc bag with 'Tri-flow' in it. I bought a 6-pack of flex shafts but after doing the oiler mod and enlarging the cast at both ends, I have yet to brake another flex shaft
What do you mean by enlarging the cast? Is that the ends of the tube? Because I was told to use syth tran fluid in mine and have broke two now. I too bought the six pack thats the best way to go.
I already have the mod I have had it for awhile now. I just don't understand what you mean by enlarging the cast??
I want to enlarge the water pick up. when you open the casing there is a small copper tube held in by what looks to be a drop of silicone. i want to put in a larger tube so that means i have to grind out both halfs of the casing to fit new brass tube larger than the small one that came out and reattach the silicoe water tube. has anyone tried this yet? I have smoked 1 esc and do not want it to happen again.I have since gone to castle 120.
Never had a problem with the standard water pickup. Also when I used the brass tube/oiler mod I just used synthetic trans fluid between runs and regreased the cable between every 3-4 days of running it and in that time i broke 1 shaft.
Last edited by CHIEFY_44; 05-27-2012 at 11:25 PM.
Socal Fe member, miss gieco castle 1515 1y t-180, blackjack29 stock,insane FE30 p sport castle 1515 1y t-180, insane FE30 p spec ul-1 motor t-120, insane 34"mono neu 1521 1.5d t-180
I put a small pick up on the in side of the transom so the motor get its own water and the esc get its own too works pretty good and I am running the 120amp esc too. and she runs cool as can be and no problem at all
Here's some photos I took of the Stiletto at the iHobby Expo in Chicago in 2010. Tempting...
iHobbyExpo2010 107R.JPGiHobbyExpo2010 108R.JPGiHobbyExpo2010 109R.JPGiHobbyExpo2010 110R.JPGiHobbyExpo2010 111R.JPG
www.IndyHobbies.com - Bringing Indiana Modelers Together
SSMA #01M9382
Can anybody tell me the purpose of the outside edge of the ride pad/sponson being rounded over, on one side only, for the last 8-10"? The other side carries the edge all the way to the back.
hi
can anyone make me the brass tube to replace my teflon liner, have broken 3 flex already. Im willing to pay for it
Stiletto tunnel,EPV135 (53") twin cat, CT06"Spirit of Qatar", FD 47" mono, Twin Mini Cat 23.5"
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