Stiletto Race Prep

[giddyuperic]

I am telling you it just was ripping around our little track and then nothing?? I had truning but no motor I must have got a bad ESC from the start. This morning she running on the 120amp and should be good to go:)

[giddyuperic]

Okay the flex shaft went out. It has had a good run that was the stock one and I got a good ten runs out of it. Can you guys tell me does the water pick up tube come short like that for a reason? What they ran out of tubing? Mine goes and then stops about 3mm away from the pick up is this the way all of them are? Gettting ready to put my brass tubing and new flex shaft tubing with oiler in and might as well fix every thing since I have the case open at this time?????

[Griff]

mine is short too, suppose they all come like it, funny my flex snapped yesterday, and it was on the tenth run.

Tom

[Darin Jordan]

Guys... just so you know... in case you haven't thought of this yourselves... .150" flex cable sized Lower Units are NOT intended to be able to handle the power or RPMs that many of you are putting through them. Look at what the Nitro guys do... The 3.5 sized lowers (what you are using on your Stilettos) are using in 3.5 stock, and 3.5 Mod... These setups do NOT put the kind of power down that our FE motors do, and certainly don't have the torque. Additionally, they only turn around 30,000+/- in most cases, and have to spool up to that. They don't put down the instant power that an FE motor does. Their .45 sized motors use a .187 sized flex cable and a much beefier lower unit to handle that kind of power...

SO, if you are going to run huge props, or 5S/6S setups (6 * 3.7V/cell = 22.2V * 1800KV = 39,960RPM), then I'd expect to carry a lot of replacement flex cables around...

Those of us that race can get away with a little more because we are NOT out then starting and stopping and jumping and whatever else the sport community is doing with these, so we aren't putting the "shock" into the flex cable that you guys likely are.

The system was really designed to run a 4S sized spec-power system and be able to handle some reasonable upgrades.

[Griff]

Darin, mines all stock running 2x 2s 5000 mah 45c thunder power lip's, I also have carried out the mods to the flex tube you so kindly posted,

Tom

[Darin Jordan]

Darin, mines all stock running 2x 2s 5000 mah 45c thunder power lip's, I also have carried out the mods to the flex tube you so kindly posted,

Tom

I'm not sure how well the stock flexshafts hold up, but if you are still breaking the aftermarket shafts, then I'd suspect an alignment issue inside the lower unit.

What I did with mine, is to take the lower apart, and assembled everything onto just one half. This allowed me to see where the cable was riding, etc. The holes near the coupler and the stub likely need to be opened up slightly to give the flex some clearance, and you need to make sure there is some end-to-end play in the cable as well. It should NOT be jammed all the way to the bottom of both the coupler and the stub, but rather have just a slight amount of end-to-end play in it. You can adjust this by adjusting the cable length (I use a disc grinder to sand down the ends a little at a time), and by adjusting the coupler on the shaft. Don't over torque the stub-shaft into the unit either, as this will cause excessive drag on it, and make sure your drive-dog isn't getting jammed down into the teflon washer from over-tightening the prop nut.

[giddyuperic]

Hello darin I think I must have miss wrote or you miss read. I am only running the 3 cell in paraelle I don't know if that is spelled right but you know what I mean. Any way what is the trick to bending this tube? I had one almost there and then it gave way. I heated it up and on that stuff. Should I just buy a tubing bender or is there a better way that does not cost me any thing? Any tip or tricks you guys can give me would be great? Thanks

[Darin Jordan]

Hello darin I think I must have miss wrote or you miss read. I am only running the 3 cell in paraelle I don't know if that is spelled right but you know what I mean. Any way what is the trick to bending this tube? I had one almost there and then it gave way. I heated it up and on that stuff. Should I just buy a tubing bender or is there a better way that does not cost me any thing? Any tip or tricks you guys can give me would be great? Thanks

I use a tubing bender, but I also use a piece of .187 flex inside the tubing to help keep it from collapsing. It just takes a lot of patience to get it right. I bend it in little bits, starting at one end and working my way to the other, moving about an inch at a time, then test it and do it again until it's just right... When done, it should just drop into the channel in the lower.

[jamespl]

I'm still running the stock setup on the outboard, only thing I've done is remove the grub screws either side. When I grease the flex I take the motor out and pull it out from the top and refit in reverse. Haven't had any probs so far running 4s on an x640.

[Griff]

just to add as you work the tube it will harden again so reheat it to soften it, (let it cool though on it's own)

Tom

[mickvk]

Just a quick two cents on bending brass - it's a little hokey, but I fill the tube with salt (or sand if ya got it) and it helps prevent the tube from crimping during bending.

[giddyuperic]

Thanks darin and guys . I just got back from home depot and got a pretty nice bender for 12 bucks. Now I have been testing it on the tube that I jacked all up and it seems the sand or salt might work better . But I will see. I am going to take a break for now and jump back on this later. If any body else has any help or tips please let me know okay? Thank you. Eric

[Sway]

Im running mine on stock motor/esc on 5s 65c thunderpower 5000's. It is quicker for sure. Using an octura x440 3 blader. I noticed...obviously the rpm is much greater. But, In my friends identical stilleto he is still running 65c 5000's but in 4s and he is using a grim racer 40x52 3 blader and his boat is setup the exact same way as mine and his is pretty much on par with mine speed wise. Mine is a hair faster. Example: drag racing down a lake i will pass him. But I noticed that if I give hime the jump mine just barely starts to reel him in all withing a couple mph by the time we hit the end. Thats about 200+yards long. Next im keeping the 5s, but gonna try the grim racer 42x55 prop to see if that gets me an edge. I love the control ya have with the 3 bladers though. Way better than a two. I also plan on trying a new octura lifter prop from my hydro. A V942/3 is going on it. I got the prop shaft all modded. Their is almost no boat in the water kinda like a hydro. Nothing but maybe 1 1" of the stern fuse and the prop in the water. Its floating on a cushion of air.I have read elseware that some swear by a lifter on an outboard and others oppose it. I myself stick with my beliefs.....seeing is believing. If the esc blows out, no biggie. I got the castle replacement right here. I just found it interesting that his boat was almost as quick as mine on virtually the same prop with one less cell. Boggles my mind. It sure as hell sounded like mine was waaaaayyy faster. But in reality it wasnt as fast as it sounded. Now wish me luck!!! Im gonna go try and smoke this esc...LOL!!

[Sway]

Oh yeah after I try this new prop(S) Im gonna go straight to 6s. See how I like it then. It sure as hell is fun and a lot less stressful than flying my turbine and edf jets. Cheaper too.

[5150WS6]

Hey guys,
Just got this boat and am setting it up initially. Can I program the esc for use with my Futaba tx/rx without using the programming card? Not seeing where it's going to let me?!?!?!

Mike

[JimClark]

get a programming card

[5150WS6]

For some reason my stock ESC wouldn't work out of the box. Not sure if it wasn't set up for lipo's outta the box or not.

Either way upgraded and have a new monster 120 esc coming that should handle any power I need.

Mike

[giddyuperic]

I don't think they are set up for lipos out of the box. I had to program mine with the card and then I just went with 120 amp any way and she now rips on the water.

[GixerGuy1978]

hey Darin; Can you comment more on block sanding the hull on the stiletto. Someone on here was asking whether all 3 riding surfaces needed to be done. How do you setup to do this and with what grade of sandpaper do you use??

[Vortech C5]

hey Darin; Can you comment more on block sanding the hull on the stiletto. Someone on here was asking whether all 3 riding surfaces needed to be done. How do you setup to do this and with what grade of sandpaper do you use??

GREAT question! Also interested!

[Darin Jordan]

Hey Guys... sorry for the delayed response...

When I block sanded my first Stiletto, I used a 10" block sanding block with some 180-grit to start, then 220, then 320. The first one I did didn't take that much material removal... the second one I did, did. You need to be careful not to sand through the original pads. Better to add some material and then sand the high-spots.

I only sanded the ride-pads (bottom of the sponsons), and made sure the trailing edges and inside edges were SHARP. I didn't do much to the outsides.

It's especially important to make sure the last 12" or so are nice and true and flat.

[giddyuperic]

This is off that topic but can you tell me why when I make turns the bow goes up and down??

[GixerGuy1978]

Hey Guys... sorry for the delayed response...

When I block sanded my first Stiletto, I used a 10" block sanding block with some 180-grit to start, then 220, then 320. The first one I did didn't take that much material removal... the second one I did, did. You need to be careful not to sand through the original pads. Better to add some material and then sand the high-spots.

I only sanded the ride-pads (bottom of the sponsons), and made sure the trailing edges and inside edges were SHARP. I didn't do much to the outsides.

It's especially important to make sure the last 12" or so are nice and true and flat.

thanks Darin; so you don't go as far as making some sort of sanding jig to sand both sponsons at the same time to ensure continuity and trueness between them?? Just sanding each one by hand usually suffices hey?

[Darin Jordan]

thanks Darin; so you don't go as far as making some sort of sanding jig to sand both sponsons at the same time to ensure continuity and trueness between them?? Just sanding each one by hand usually suffices hey?

A jig would be nice, but I'm not sure it's necessary. I hand-sand the surfaces, putting the hull frequently back on the setup board to verify that I'm getting them where I want them.

Hmmmmm.... maybe I should make a jig for my Mill, and just run them through it! (too bad my mill isn't large enough to do that... :D )

[SkipJack]

Well, I took the plunge and ordered my stiletto / radio combo late yesterday afternoon and you gotta-luv HH, it already shipped.
Thanks goes to Darin too for your encouragement and knowledge, as well as, all the others that have contributed to this web-forum.

I had a time figuring out a charger and batt combo but I finally got there.
I ordered an iCharger 208B from the US and ordered a Turnigy nano-tech 5000mah 4S 65~130C Lipo Pack from hobbywing.

Hopefully I will be able to charge 2 of these batteries at the same time when I can afford another one.
In reality, I would have put the whole idea of another boat on the back-burner for another 5 years if I couldn't have found a battery at this price so I hope it works out. The batteries sure are not cheap. I hope they last longer than in my helicopters, 4 sure.

Getting on the water is still relatively about the same cost, if not less now, than it was 25 years ago because I know I paid dearly for all new Dumas HotShot 45 hull, K&B 45 engine, Kraft 2 CH radio, sullivan starter, fuel, bits and bobs, paint, etc. Heck, I spent at least $600 on stuff from some jerk who owned the LHS on a v-hull project that would have never worked even for a pro. Finally I got wise and went mail-order catalog. We didn't have the internet back then, LOL, and the LHS was over an hour drive. Actually I had move fun with a little Dumas Short-stuff with a Cox 0.49 black-widow that I just tied the rudder to one side and let it go around in circles; before I got into nitro tunnel-hulls and mail-order.

Well, I will keep you all posted, I expect quite a wait for the battery

[jasoncyclone]

Glad to see you got a Proboat tunnel!!!!! You will love it. I run these batts and they are a few bucks cheaper. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...arehouse_.html

Follow Darins race prep on your new tunnel and you will love the results. Let us know when you get it.

[SkipJack]

Thanks for the tip. I guess I should have asked before I jumped and ordered from the overseas location and the nano-tech one that is even more on top of the shipping. All the more reason I hope I get a good one, I think the one you advised is perfectly adequate. I also ordered 6 mm and 5.5 mm bullet connectors but saw today where some use 6.5 mm on the battery, Oh Well.. I had to order a few other little parts I got wrong the last time, so I guess I will just wait.

Does anyone have experience with the iCharger 208B? Will it charge 2 of these 4s batteries simultaneously at a decent rate? I plan on using a marine deep-cycle for my power source.

I hope I picked a good charger. Reading the charger threads was a nightmare.

I have a few Power-one industrial power supplies but I have to dig them out of storage and they are either 15vDC, 18vDC, 24vDC, some are +/-. I guess any of these have the right voltage, it will just be the current output I have to verify.

[jasoncyclone]

5.5 bullets will work fine with your setup. That is all I have ever used and I have never had any issues with them. I don't have the charger you bought so I can't help you on that. The battery you bought is very nice and will work great in that boat. Have fun and post pics or vids when you get it!

[jasoncyclone]

Not sure how comfortable you are with the soldering gun, but I justinstalled a extra cap on my buddies 60amp esc and it was pretty easy and will make the esc last longer! The cap is only 75 cents from OSE!

[SkipJack]

Howdy, Jasoncyclone!
When you say you installed an extra cap did you replace one or add it across the power wires? I have no problem soldering.
Thanks for more info! Was it on the Proboat ESC?
All the Best, Harry