Stiletto Race Prep

[GP73]

I think Darin indirectly answered your question about the flex shaft, shortening the flex a bit won't hurt, leaving enough space between the coupler and the shaft is fundamental.

I've ran my Hyperformance stub shaft for a bit now, I haven't used any thread lock on the grub screws, but I'm using smaller grub screws that are flush with the drive dog.

The tubing goes between your prop and the nut to keep the nut in place and as added security for the prop.

I just got the Hyper Performance 3.5 Bullet Shaft Assembly and Hyper Performance flex. I made the flat spot on the motor shaft longer and rised the coupler a bit. Is this correct or should I shorten the flex a bit? (dont get why that would even work since the cable wont go any deeper in eighter end...cutting it would only make the square ends shorter and that cant help?) -or am I missing something here?

Also should the grub screws on the bullet assembly be loctited or not? -greasing the assembly is more difficult if loctited but wont the screws get loose if not glued?

Is the fuel tubing that comes with the assembly used between prop and nut for smaller props? -or why is that there?
Attachment 55400
Just throwing ideas here, since I have never worked with these ob´s.

[Just ADD Water]

hello everyone !

Have had my Stiletto now for a week...lovin it .but the flex shaft broke had to order whole new outboard cause the flaex shaft is on backorder..... Can i have a part number for the lawless flex shaft and Hyperformance stub shaft ...thanx David

[giddyuperic]

I would like that part # too please.

[sailr]

these guys have lawless shafts. Not sure which one fits the Stilletto motor, K&B, O.S., etc?

http://www.midwestrc.com/lawless.htm

[FastVee]

I think Darin indirectly answered your question about the flex shaft, shortening the flex a bit won't hurt, leaving enough space between the coupler and the shaft is fundamental.

I've ran my Hyperformance stub shaft for a bit now, I haven't used any thread lock on the grub screws, but I'm using smaller grub screws that are flush with the drive dog.

The tubing goes between your prop and the nut to keep the nut in place and as added security for the prop.

Thanks.

Shortening the flex however wont do anything good. -on my outboard atleast.the problem is that the coupler is too long, if I would cut few mm of the coupler just above the grub screw it would allow more adjustment. If I would just cut the flex(I did try that) it would not help anything cause the flex still wont go any deeper in to the coupler.(it stops going any deeper right at the point the square end changes to round flex).

For now I just installed washers under the motor mounting screws to raise the motor a bit. After I get the coupler shortened I´ll remove the washers.

And Darin, the flex on my ob broke half way the square at the stubs end. Thinking the teflon is too small bore( The flex was not easy to rotate inside the teflon by hand ),and the coupler was too high so the shaft was not completely inside the stub.. After that I filed the teflon id a bit bigger so the flex rotated more freely and no more broken shafts. Now I have 7/32 brass tube glued in.
(needs glue cause I also opened up the holes where the flex exits into the prop-shaft and near the coupler and the brass tube could maybe get through these holes.)

[sailr]

The Horizon part number for the Stilletto flexshaft is PRB4033

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=PRB4033

[giddyuperic]

Thanks very much. But I am after the after market fles shaft please?

[sailr]

If you can get an answer from someone regarding which shaft will work, I provided a link above to a third party company that sells shafts!

[giddyuperic]

Sorry to keep buging you but how do I know witch one to buy? Or is there one that you cann cut down to work? Thanks for the help newbie here.

[CHIEFY_44]

get intouch with hyperformance and ask them for the cable with the black spiral line down its length i have used this since mine broke and it fits no problem no cutting nothing drop it in and go.
there web address:-http://www.hyperprod.bizhosting.com/
there phone number:- 714-893-0030 this is also there fax number

[giddyuperic]

Thanks I bought three of them and the guy shop is right down the way from where I live in california. So it worked out great thank you very much. Eric

[Rony]

Just got a new stilello when setting it up with a dx3s i found it has a dead speedy the steering servo works fine.The programming module won,t work with it either has anyone had the same problem.

[giddyuperic]

What do you mean? The program card?

[LiPo Power]

I am using this one:

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=hpi-dc1563s2


http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=hpi-psa35

The new version of prop shaft assembly should come with screws that are flash with the prop dog. ( Steve has the picture of older original version with sticking out screws )
Both in stock! This parts are MUST HAVE if you have few bucks for hardware upgrade on stiletto.

Thanks very much. But I am after the after market fles shaft please?

[giddyuperic]

get intouch with hyperformance and ask them for the cable with the black spiral line down its length i have used this since mine broke and it fits no problem no cutting nothing drop it in and go.
there web address:-http://www.hyperprod.bizhosting.com/
there phone number:- 714-893-0030 this is also there fax number

I got a couple of these. When I spoke with the owner he said that these are after market drop in's. Do I need the hard shaft and other part that the other lipo power is is showing us??????

[CHIEFY_44]

get there bullit shaft assembly too its undistructable req very little in maintance just a little oil on the shaft after ur finished for the day and if u do the brass liner instead of the teflon you can make a oiler for the shaft which helps in maintance too. I have this done to mine and it works a treat.

[Just ADD Water]

Boat pics and video 002.jpg...Got the new flex cable in ... Fixed and hit the lake today ! along with my spartan ... Great day ! Stiletto was like a knife on glass today!....thanx to the expert info given here at this website!.. thanx Darin.. thanx everyone!

[Just ADD Water]

Boat pics and video 002.jpg...Got the new flex cable in ... Fixed and hit the lake today ! along with my spartan ... Great day ! Stiletto was like a knife on glass today!....thanx to the expert info given here at this website!.. thanx Darin.. thanx everyone!

[sailr]

Could you please post a pic of the oiler?

get there bullit shaft assembly too its undistructable req very little in maintance just a little oil on the shaft after ur finished for the day and if u do the brass liner instead of the teflon you can make a oiler for the shaft which helps in maintance too. I have this done to mine and it works a treat.

[Darin Jordan]

Could you please post a pic of the oiler?

There are pics of the way I did this oilier further up in this race-prep thread. I think it's like post #68 or there-abouts. I don't have an actual reservoir on mine, but just inject it with oil between rounds. I used a large piece of silicone tubing, between the case and the stuffing tube which actually holds a decent amount of oil as well...

I'm very encouraged by those of you who are working things out with this boat. In fact, it's thanks to some of you here that mine is now running closer to how I want it to go! Didn't quite get this thing "perfect" out of the box, but it seems that only minor tweaks, and some attention to detail, are all it really needs to be a good handling package.

[giddyuperic]

I got these from Hyperformance and he said these would drop right in but when it comes time I am going to do the mods darin told us about with the brass housing and oiler.7-18-11 new flex shafts 001.JPG7-18-11 new flex shafts 002.JPG

[CHIEFY_44]

salir the oiler is exactly what darin has pics of as he said post #68, basically you do the brass stuffing tube mod and solder a smaller dia piece of tubbing to the inside of the curve of the stuffing tube, then grind away the outboard casing where it sticks through, then add your piece of silicon tubbing to that and then you have to find a fitting to put into the outboard casing so you can oil your shaft without taking it apart everytime, i personally used a pressure fitting from a nitro car and use a syringe with a ca glue bottle tip trimmed to fit into the hole of the fitting and oil the shaft this way, i will post pics tomorrow if i get time. Darin thank you for all the good work with the race prep I am not trying to say it was my idea just explaining how i did the mod you told everyone about in the first place, keep up the good work mate. Everytime i have this boat out on the water i get nothing but compliments from passer by's saying how cool it looks (then normally i end up with it upside down in the water).

[CHIEFY_44]

There the ones eric i have been using the same one for ages now never had a problem and yes they do drop straight in no problem, but lke i said in an earlier post get there buillit shaft too you will have very little problems if you do more so when you do the brass stuffing tube mod as well.

[giddyuperic]

Can you please show me where buillit shaft is on his web site? Thanks And with all the I can set up the brass and the oiler port and be good to go? I really like this boat and you are right every body who see's it say that is way cool looking boat. Even got me a in with a girl to get her number:)

[CHIEFY_44]

go to his web page, then outboard accesories,then its the 3.5 shaft assembly it shows at $24.25, fit this and the shaft with the brass stuffing tube with the oiler attachment and yes your good to go. Just need to fine tune the boat and your on your way to enjoying this boat, i used synthetic transmission oil to oil the shaft between runs and that was told to me by the boss of hyperformance and right now is working a treat.

[Cubfan]

I posted a response to Cubfan's question on the RC Groups forum, but here it is again for the rest of you:


Can you describe WHERE the cables are breaking?

If I may venture a guess, I'd say they are breaking either very near the stub shaft (within 1/4" or so of the stub shaft, just up from the flats??) or very near the coupler??

On the https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/forum.php forum, I have a "race prep" thread for this boat where I describe some prep work I did on my lower units to increase their reliability and reduce maintenance, as well as reduce drag.

Here is a link to that thread: https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...etto-Race-Prep

One think I noticed is that the holes in the cases of the lower unit that are at either end of the channel that holds the teflon stuffing tube are a little bit on the small side. I disassembled my lower unit to get all the internals out and to clean up the halves (there can be bead-blasting debris in the cases from the manufacturing process). Putting just the two halves together, I opened up the holes where the flex exits into the prop-shaft and at the top near the coupler to provide a little more "wiggle-room" for the flex cable in these areas. I also used this opportunity to assemble the motor, stuffing tube, prop-shaft, coupler, and flex shaft onto one-half of the lower unit so I could assure that the coupler is installed to allow the proper flex-shaft end-play and wasn't binding. There should be a slight amount of end clearance of the flex in the coupler and the prop-shaft.

What I suspect is happening with your flex cables is that they are either binding from being jammed down with no end-clearance in your coupler/prop-shaft, or that they are rubbing on the holes I described above.

All that being said, I have been using Lawless or K&B stubs in mine, simply because that's what I have, and also because they tend to have JUST ENOUGH flat at the ends (the flats aren't overly long), so the cable can bend a little bit more toward the ends.

Hope this helps.

Darin I did your mods to the lower unit and installed the brass tube. Ran it today with a K&B cable- Wow what a difference. I must have had a bad factory set up - The motor has much more RPM/Speed than before. It must of really had a bind with the stock set up. I would highly recommend this blueprinting operation to anyone.
Thanks again for the info
Cubfan

[giddyuperic]

I have bought my upgade flex shafts and the tubing. Can someone tell me the best way to bend it please? I have heard people say fill it with sand or bend it around something. What did you guys use please? For now I am still running stock set up still. But I gave it a little wiggle roon as darin said and she is singing right alone. Now I fliped her the other day and had it all taped up but there is no real way to save the motor right? I had to take her out and dry her for a day of so then no problem. I really wise someone would make a better battery box cove the tuperwear stuff just don't cut it. I had it all taped up and water still got in there. Is there a way to tape it better and it there something you can water proof the motor with a spray or something???? And when I don't shaft with tubing and oiler what prop are you going to after that mod? Thank you very much. Eric

[Darin Jordan]

I have bought my upgade flex shafts and the tubing. Can someone tell me the best way to bend it please? I have heard people say fill it with sand or bend it around something. What did you guys use please? For now I am still running stock set up still. But I gave it a little wiggle roon as darin said and she is singing right alone. Now I fliped her the other day and had it all taped up but there is no real way to save the motor right? I had to take her out and dry her for a day of so then no problem. I really wise someone would make a better battery box cove the tuperwear stuff just don't cut it. I had it all taped up and water still got in there. Is there a way to tape it better and it there something you can water proof the motor with a spray or something???? And when I don't shaft with tubing and oiler what prop are you going to after that mod? Thank you very much. Eric

Eric,

To bend that tubing, I lay the cases open so I'll have a pattern, and then I heat the tubing with a propane torch until it's just not quite glowing... just anneal it a bit. I then used a tubing bender and very carefully bent it to shape, a little bit at a time, section by section, until it fits.

As for getting water in... It's likely not coming in the lid. I would venture to guess it's coming in through the rubber bellows at the wires and control cables. If you look at how I did mine, I separated the wires out individual holes and sealed them separately. Another option is to squirt some lithium or other type of grease up inside the bellows from the inside. That's what I did for the control cables. Haven't gotten any water in since.

Some of these hulls aren't sealed at the two cowl hold-down holes at the front, or the thumb screw holes at the back, so squirt some silicone in there and put the cowl on to push the stuff up inside a bit (maybe put a little grease on the pins, just to make sure they don't stick). This will help seal that.

Finally, I made my own lid cover out of a piece of 1/16" ply and sealed it. Flat surface. Much easier to tape, plus it gave me an extra 1/4" or so inside the boat to fit the ESC on top of the batteries if needed.

[giddyuperic]

Thank you very much . Just a couple more things please. Can you tell me the name of the tubing bender? Thanks for all your help. Eric P.S. What about the cowl on the motor?Is it okay if the motor gets wet as long as you don't run it and let it dry really good? You have helped alot on this boat and I want to thank you. Are you going to legg lake on the 6th and 7th of aug?

[Darin Jordan]

Can you tell me the name of the tubing bender?

This isn't the one I have, but it's an example:



This is one of the ones that I have:



I think I found it at a NAPA store...