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Thread: Looking to buy EKOS

  1. #31
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    I picked it up last night & put the props & rudder on. I gave it a tow in the shop on its trailer & it tows nicely. I have just got to wait for some larger batteries to arrive so that i can run it.

    What does everone use for hatch tape? This is the first boat that i have owned which requires it.

  2. #32
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    Caution!! The included hatch tape may remove the paint! It did on mine. I always use colored vinyl electrical tape from any home depot/hardware store. Its sticky enough to seal the hatch, but comes off without removing paint.

  3. #33
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    Me,being still pretty new to FE,I liked the venom tape.I dont buy it anymore-cost too much for how much you get.The only other I have used is the tape from OSE,which is hockey tape.It works okay,but comes off when running sometimes.Especially after a wipe out.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    Caution!! The included hatch tape may remove the paint! It did on mine. I always use colored vinyl electrical tape from any home depot/hardware store. Its sticky enough to seal the hatch, but comes off without removing paint.


    i did use the included tape but had no issues...
    had i known i would not have used it.
    i would still toss it and get yourself some elec.tape.

  5. #35
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    Thanks for the heads up. The boat did not come with any tape anyway. Eleco tape sounds like the go. I can get heaps of that. I will try & give it a run this weekend.

  6. #36
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    I have just tried programing the esc's for reverse. The port esc will not reverse but the starbord esc will & i have programmed them both the same. I have also noticed that the port esc is slower to repond than the starbord 1. Is this common?

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bug777 View Post
    I have just tried programing the esc's for reverse. The port esc will not reverse but the starbord esc will & i have programmed them both the same. I have also noticed that the port esc is slower to repond than the starbord 1. Is this common?
    I'm not sure that I know of anyone who is using the reverse function on the esc's.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by scubasteve95 View Post


    i did use the included tape but had no issues...
    had i known i would not have used it.
    i would still toss it and get yourself some elec.tape.
    I'm thinkin that the paint was not completely cured when I got mine new. Havent had any problems since.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    I'm not sure that I know of anyone who is using the reverse function on the esc's.
    I only want the reverse so that i can reverse it off the trailer that i have built for it.

  10. #40
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    Ahhh, got any pics of that trailer?? I'd like to see it.

  11. #41
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    Here is a link to the build thread i did for it.
    http://monster.traxxas.com/showthread.php?t=522782
    It had the boat from the lhs sitting on it. The rudder has about 50mm between it & the ground.

  12. #42
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    Looks good! Here is the one I built for my shockweave 55.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #43
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    Very neat looking trailer.

    I took it for a run today. I did not get any water inside of it & it went ok. I noticed that the bow was digging in a bit. I will try & move the batteries back a little before adjusting the strut angle.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    Looks good! Here is the one I built for my shockweave 55.
    DUDE.....
    thats home built?
    not from a kit.....
    thats friggen awsome.

  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by scubasteve95 View Post
    DUDE.....
    thats home built?
    not from a kit.....
    thats friggen awsome.
    I was actually suprised it came out as well as it did. I used traxxas slash tires/wheels, i/2 inch welded box steel and had it powder coated to match the hull. Hardest part was making the fenders. Here is a couple more pics.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  16. #46
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    That is an amazing job. What do you tow it with? Could you retrieve the boat with out helping it onto the trailer?

  17. #47
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    Aww shucks! I tried towing it with my summit once. It wasnt really set up to roll. More for display!

  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    I was actually suprised it came out as well as it did. I used traxxas slash tires/wheels, i/2 inch welded box steel and had it powder coated to match the hull. Hardest part was making the fenders. Here is a couple more pics.
    OHHH man!
    that would be killer for my Rio 51z
    beats the stock wood stand
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  19. #49
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    I took it for another run today. I was a bit disappointed in how it went. It still seems to be nose down when running. I think i will start mucking around with the strut angle now.

  20. #50
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    strut angle will help alot speaking of struts my flex cable snapped the other day right by the coupler. Had to remove the pieces that where still bolted in lost the left machined prop..and this was the stronger cables from jeff on stock motors..I was surprised that this could actually happen even when lubed and cleaned on the regular.lol

  21. #51
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    ive been using jeffs wires there built like brick sh!t houses.....
    tough as nails and take all the abuse i give them.
    i would go with those...i'll never use flex again.
    vikos is right get your stingers more pos.

  22. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bug777 View Post
    I took it for another run today. I was a bit disappointed in how it went. It still seems to be nose down when running. I think i will start mucking around with the strut angle now.
    Which batteries are you using? And you have the venom red props right? 32 or 36mm?

  23. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by scubasteve95 View Post
    ive been using jeffs wires there built like brick sh!t houses.....
    tough as nails and take all the abuse i give them.
    i would go with those...i'll never use flex again.
    vikos is right get your stingers more pos.
    If you have the extra cash, the wire drives are really the way to go on the ekos. I have a set of Jeffs flex cables that I've never used. They fit a little tight in the stock stuffing tubes.

  24. #54
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    Im with forescott on the wire drives.They are awesome.Be sure to use collets and not the set screw type couplers.

  25. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    Which batteries are you using? And you have the venom red props right? 32 or 36mm?
    I am using a pair of LRP 2200mah 3S 25C LiPo's. I am waiting on some 5000mah batteries to arrive. I just have the stock props which came with it.

    I have spoken to Venom about the Port ESC. I have to return it to them for warranty. I should have the replacement back by Thurseday this week.

  26. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarrysDrifter View Post
    Im with forescott on the wire drives.They are awesome.Be sure to use collets and not the set screw type couplers.
    Thanks. I will look into this later. I have to get some larger batteries first.

  27. #57
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    Definetely! The mah on your batteries is too low and is most likely the cause of poor performance. Don't get too concerned with the stinger trim until you get those new packs.

  28. #58
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    Ok. Thanks. I will order them in the next couple of days.

  29. #59
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    bug777,
    3s-5000mah packs are only going to give
    you more run time(you are using 3s-2200mah correct)
    also more weight.
    she will run even more nose heavy but longer.
    i'm thinking you will still need to get your stingers more pos
    or she will still run wet.
    i could be wrong but sounds right to me.

  30. #60
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    True scuba, but if the mah is too low then the batteries wont put out enough amps that the motors require to reach their maximum potential. I wouldnt dip below 3000mah on any brushless setup.

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