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Thread: Looking to buy EKOS

  1. #1
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    Default Looking to buy EKOS

    Hi,

    I am new to this forum, but have been involved with RC for a while now.

    I am looking to get back into boats after a few years break. I have had nitro boats in the past but i am looking to purchase an EKOS.

    Looking through this forum i see some people have had issue with the engines. Is this comon or a rare occurance. Also do 4S packs fit in with out any modifications.

    Here are some pics of a trailer which i built to carry it when i get it.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    It seems that if you do what was suggested in forums it is ok stock.
    4s fits just fine up to about 3600mah.
    It is not RTR, more like RTF (ready to fix)

  3. #3
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    4s packs fit, dont use them with the stock motors. The best thing you could do if you are really dead-set on getting the ekos is wait until the updated version comes out with the out-runner motors in it. If you gotta have it now, stick with 3s and the 32mm props. The ekos in its current form is not too beginner-friendly, and you can burn up components if you are not cautious. Aside from that its an awesome scale-looking boat. I love mine!

  4. #4
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    Thanks for the heads up. Any idea when the next version is coming out? I am willing to wait until it's summer down here.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bug777 View Post
    Thanks for the heads up. Any idea when the next version is coming out? I am willing to wait until it's summer down here.
    I have no idea. Venom has a lot of new releases yet to come out. 2-brushless boats,a new dirt bike, and a short course truck. I dont think you will see an upgraded c-1 for several months. Take a look around the forum. There are about 1/2 dozen new boats that should be out on the market in a month or two. Traxxas, Proboat, and Aquacraft all have new models coming soon.

  6. #6
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    Thanks again. I will see what is out when i get closer to buying at the end of this year. I really like the look of the EKOS over any other boat at the moment. I also like the twin motor set up.

  7. #7
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    boat runs fine with 3s 4000mah 20c thats what I run..get it its a nice boat. Upgrade the couplers to whatrcracingboat sells and your good to go really. Until its time to buy parts for it I guess just like every other RC product..its just that parts from venom suck and they rarely have any. Make sure everything is tight and you shouldn't have a problem really. use blue locktite and your good.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the info guys. I have still been looking around at the other brands. I am still keen on the EKOS. I have got till November to get one as it's too cold to go for a swim if it breaks down until then.

  9. #9
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    Steves got a crazy deal. http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...g+of+Shaves+C1

    By it now and replace/mod everything while the weather sucks, then when it get nice your boat will be ready to run.
    - Diesel's Youtube
    - Diesel's Fleet
    "It is easier to be wise for others than for ourselves"

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bug777 View Post
    Thanks for the info guys. I have still been looking around at the other brands. I am still keen on the EKOS. I have got till November to get one as it's too cold to go for a swim if it breaks down until then.
    Don't swim. It is hard to carry it back. Get a cheap inflatable raft, much better option.
    Even so it is hard to carry it back, also get a string with a suction cap on one end, this way you can tow the boat back much easier. We boat almost in freezing temps :)

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by vasy View Post
    Don't swim. It is hard to carry it back. Get a cheap inflatable raft, much better option.
    Even so it is hard to carry it back, also get a string with a suction cap on one end, this way you can tow the boat back much easier. We boat almost in freezing temps :)
    Thanks for the tips. I will still wait till the end of the year at the moment unless things change.

    So if i run it on 3S i should not have any dramas as long as i flush it out after use? Thanks again for all of your help in making my decision.

    I will consider what's on offer here when it's time to buy.

  12. #12
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    Well its always good to flush out the motors but what are you running them in, fresh/salt water. Me and one other guy run our boats in salt and just like fulll size boat requires a fresh water run when done and spray down. I use an electric cleaner/lubricant after Irun the boat just so salt doesn't become a problem in side the hull. One thing I did notice that after say every 2 runs or 2 weeks of down time its good to lube the shafts and orgrease them with marine grease(for salt water) cause when I changed the crappy venom shafts they had started rusting from being in salt water. No matter what your gona get water in the stinger shaft/strut just gottah load it up with grease to help stop this reaction. Gona install my parts today and take her for a run. Ordered 2 sets of stock props,and 1 set of aluminums. Gona see if the stockys hold up to everything being tight then switch to the aluminums.

  13. #13
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    It will be ran in salt water only as i live near Lake MacQuarie which is near Newcastle - Australia.

    When i had my past nitro's i got a windscreeen washer bottle with pump & filled it up with fresh water & pumped it through the cooling systems.

    I also got into the habbit of removing the flex shafts every couple of runs to stop them from rusting.

  14. #14
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    Good idea. I remove my flex shafts after running, wipe all the water/grease off and spray em with wd-40. I use a piece of pvc with caps on each end to protect and keep my shafts clean!

  15. #15
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    I just wonder if set screws get worn out after so many screw and unscrew...but yeah its a good idea to clean the water off especially if in salt water..more so leaving salt water in the motors jacket..usually just pump fresh water also or blow it thru about 4 times.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by VIKOS View Post
    I just wonder if set screws get worn out after so many screw and unscrew.
    They don't if you have the correct driver to undo & do up. Also if you don't over tighten them & damage the threads they should last forever.

  17. #17
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    yes but rememeber locktite is a pain and can almost cause you to strip them always...depending on how much you put. Gona run the her to do with the aluminum props 36mm with 3S lipos. I've done this before with the crappy stock shafts and coupler ended up losing one. I think 4S would be fine on stock motors as long as your gentle with the throttle and not constantly doing WOT runs. Speaking of those outruneer motors from venom. I see those failing worste than the stockys because very little air in hull to cool and temps will get very hott in there.

  18. #18
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    How does the EKOS handle a light chop because it hardly gets glassy on the lake where i'll be running it.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bug777 View Post
    How does the EKOS handle a light chop because it hardly gets glassy on the lake where i'll be running it.
    My ekos runs pretty true in light chop. I think the key to good rough water handling is correct battery placement for a good c.o.g. You want the boat to fly straight as it gets airborn and not be too nose-heavy.

  20. #20
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    the position of the tray is actually really good for choppy conditions..I mean I run in the ocean which is lightly calm but not rough seas. Well tried the the 4s lipo and you can tell a difference just by first luanch. my problem is that I kept eating away the left prop..on the stock plastic props..boat would start to just turn left and I thought it was just sea weed in the rudder come to find out the props been eaten alive lol. Anyone got a reason behind this. Do the carbon fiber props break at all. Where does one order it from..remember I need two in opposite directions and don't see any on here at all. The stock venom props well get eaten again..like the two I tried to install lol.

  21. #21
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    Ok. Thanks. Should i start off at zero prop angle & adjust it from there?

  22. #22
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    to me the stock prop angle is best..it use to plain very fast..now that I've gone both +/- it takes a few feet to plain...could be the props could be many things..still hauls butt though so no worries there. stock angle is best for all around. I'll try to take some videos as soonas my machined props get here..gona make sure I soak the prop nuts in locktite lol Idon't want to loose those at all. rather burn out a motor than to loose those props...but from what I hear the gas boats props are upwards of 100bucks plus so I really don't feel so bad paying 60 bucks for a set.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bug777 View Post
    Ok. Thanks. Should i start off at zero prop angle & adjust it from there?
    I'd check how well your boat is made. On my friend's boat the scale is more or less useless as left and right stinger and not glues at the same angle
    It is so bad you don't even need a gauge to see the difference in angle. So you can just eye ball it to be more or less even unless one take time to see how much the are out and factor that it into the calculations. Bad ASSembly.

  24. #24
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    I agree I use the space that the stingers pivot on to dial in how much or how even both look. The gap is usually either more or less depending on either one.

  25. #25
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    I lay mine on a flat surface with the props removed and measure the distance between the stinger and the flat surface with a wood shim. It makes it much easier to keep the stingers the same height.

  26. #26
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    The venom 4S 3200mAh batteries fit fine. I suggest short run time with these batteries on stock 32mm props and you shouldn't have any problems. Run the 36mm props with 3S batteries and the boat goes really well.

  27. #27
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    I ordered my boat this week. I can't wait for it to get here. The lake is looking sooo good at the moment & the weather is starting to warm up as well

  28. #28
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    Cool, be sure to read up on the forums on what to look out for before running it.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by vasy View Post
    I'd check how well your boat is made. On my friend's boat the scale is more or less useless as left and right stinger and not glues at the same angle
    It is so bad you don't even need a gauge to see the difference in angle. So you can just eye ball it to be more or less even unless one take time to see how much the are out and factor that it into the calculations. Bad ASSembly.
    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    I lay mine on a flat surface with the props removed and measure the distance between the stinger and the flat surface with a wood shim. It makes it much easier to keep the stingers the same height.
    your right on with the assembly of the stingers...
    the scale is of no help..
    i do almost the same as forescott but i use a level to get the boat level and
    then the level across to both stingers this way you know there perfect.

  30. #30
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    Thanks for the advise. I will post pics when i get it. I have also ordered 4 x Venom 5000mah 3S for it.

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