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Thread: VENOM EKOS 4S 5000mah LIKE BUTTER

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmisuinas View Post
    Well, I got mine in the water on 4s and it really moves. A couple of observations and some advice needed: I was surprised how low it sat in the water (4s 5000 packs) the back end was submerged to the hatch line--but it came out of the water when I hit the throttle, that's for sure.

    But it also bounced a lot--the front end was like it was on a trampoline. I take it this is a balance problem--do I need to try and push the packs forward a bit? Where are you guys balancing this hull? Have not changed any drive angles, just ran it the way it came (although I am running 9xl and cf40 props with Turnigy 120s--don't want to give any false impressions here). Thanks...Pete M

    PS--serious difference in speed between 3s and 4s packs--I use the programming box to reset the cutoff voltage when I want to just "cruise" around on 3s packs--nice to have that easy to do option...

    PPS--also, adapters for the 3/16" prop--turned out I couldn't find any brass tubing to fit without a long drive to hobby shop, so I used the outer sheath fromn a Nyrod--if you want to get fancy, make a spiral cut in the plastic, then you can slip it over the shaft and the prop fits great. but if you get tired of it breaking on you while trying a spiral cut, a straight cut will work just as well.
    i'm running the same size packs and mine doesn't sit that low,
    can you give me some measurements (were do the packs sit in the hull)
    maybe the battery holder is to far aft?

  2. #62
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    Ordering wire drives,120 esc and 9xl,and 10xl either or as spares..think both motors will run on 4s or 5s. Gona be real fun soon

  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by scubasteve95 View Post
    i'm running the same size packs and mine doesn't sit that low,
    can you give me some measurements (were do the packs sit in the hull)
    maybe the battery holder is to far aft?
    The packs sit against the back of the battery box, I had to remove the ply front of the box so they would fit, as they exceeded the size of the box. The packs together weigh 37oz. The ESCs fit under the hull top, in front of the packs. I can maybe move then a bit forward, certainly can't hurt--help both the low sitting rear and the porposing, I would think...

  4. #64
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    I got this from another KOS thread:

    I don' t like how heavy and low my other EKOS is with less weight than this as the water line often covers the rear of the hatch when sitting still.

    Apparently I'm not the only one that has a boat that sits low in the water

  5. #65
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    They all sit pretty low in the water, but the water line shouldnt be high enough to seep into the hatch.

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmisuinas View Post
    I got this from another KOS thread:

    I don' t like how heavy and low my other EKOS is with less weight than this as the water line often covers the rear of the hatch when sitting still.

    Apparently I'm not the only one that has a boat that sits low in the water
    the hull sitting to low in the water?
    mine sits right at the edge of the transom right were the black
    section starts...3 inches from the hatch
    so something is to far aft.
    how far back from the transom does your
    battery holder sit?
    mine is 7"15/16 to the transom were the rudder mounts
    from the rear of the battery holder.cant hurt to check it.
    and can you give me the measurements of your packs,
    dont know why you would of had to remove the front of holder.
    like i said i run the same 4s 5000mah pack and i had to put a piece of
    the foam i took off the hatch in my holder to keep them from moving.

  7. #67
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    I run 3300 4s packs to keep the wight down and increase speed! Plenty enough run time for me. Especially with a hot setup!

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    I run 3300 4s packs to keep the wight down and increase speed! Plenty enough run time for me. Especially with a hot setup!
    how long?
    and hot is a understatement for that rig!!!!!!!!

  9. #69
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    It does'nt really run too hot. If I tried to run it for 15 minutes it would! I usually run it for about 6-8 minutes without hitting the lvc.

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    It does'nt really run too hot. If I tried to run it for 15 minutes it would! I usually run it for about 6-8 minutes without hitting the lvc.
    NO NO NO!!!!!!!!!!
    you misunderstand............
    i ment hot was not a strong enough word for your set-up.
    DIALED IN,SUPER SMOKEN KICK A$$,or maybe even SEXY SWEET
    ............(still talken about your set-up...i meen your boat)
    and 6-8 is great at that speed....................................57mph
    you stink.....i'm @49mph and i was hummen

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by scubasteve95 View Post
    NO NO NO!!!!!!!!!!
    you misunderstand............
    i ment hot was not a strong enough word for your set-up.
    DIALED IN,SUPER SMOKEN KICK A$$,or maybe even SEXY SWEET
    ............(still talken about your set-up...i meen your boat)
    and 6-8 is great at that speed....................................57mph
    you stink.....i'm @49mph and i was hummen
    aaaaah, o.k. @ 57mph I'm pretty much biting my fingernails. Its plenty fast enough for me, and I wouldnt want to try and push it anymore. I have a nice set of octura 442's that I could run and probably get 60, but It would have to be just a quick saw run. The motors would get hot really fast I'm sure.

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    aaaaah, o.k. @ 57mph I'm pretty much biting my fingernails. Its plenty fast enough for me, and I wouldnt want to try and push it anymore. I have a nice set of octura 442's that I could run and probably get 60, but It would have to be just a quick saw run. The motors would get hot really fast I'm sure.
    NICE...........
    WANT TO SELL THE X442's?
    need a set and don't want to wait for my guy to bal & sharpen....

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by scubasteve95 View Post
    NICE...........
    WANT TO SELL THE X442's?
    need a set and don't want to wait for my guy to bal & sharpen....
    I'm gonna hold on to em for a bit. I had egneg sharpen/balance/polish/de-toungue them for me and they cost me about 90-bucks for the pair after all said and done.

  14. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    I'm gonna hold on to em for a bit. I had egneg sharpen/balance/polish/de-toungue them for me and they cost me about 90-bucks for the pair after all said and done.
    from what i have heard,if he did them i'll give you a $100.00

  15. #75
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    You're really tempting me, but I have to decline. I may end up using them with the 10xl's later so I think I'll hold on to them for now. Thanks for the generous offer though.

  16. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    You're really tempting me, but I have to decline. I may end up using them with the 10xl's later so I think I'll hold on to them for now. Thanks for the generous offer though.
    i had to give it a shot....thanx anyway.

  17. #77
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    LOL just get 442's and have them balance and sharpened before they come. I'm thinkin the CF way might be the best way over brass or metal being heavy..as for boat sitting low water only comes up below the deck not on the hatch unless your moving in reverse. But I'd slide your packs a bit forward if you have that much water coming in. Running the boat tomorrow after a loss shaft that twisted and broke.

  18. #78
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    Let us know how it goes!

  19. #79
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    ran really good need to add some more epoxy on the left motor just a tad..still a lil looser than the right..which makes me wonder if it snapped due t omovement in the stinger housing. Gona work on that tomorrow. Also noticed that removing the front battery tray wall and running the batteries up a bit with stingers at -1 help alot with keeping the bow down at speeds..but on choppy conditions you see alot of nose digging when not at high speeds.

  20. #80
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    Did you break one of my wire drives?

  21. #81
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    I think he's got flex cables and you're collets.

  22. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Wohlt View Post
    Did you break one of my wire drives?
    Flex shafts..but order two sets from you and the upgraded 4 set screw couplers. Couplers are awesome kept the flex shaft lodged in the hole lol. Again I think its from movement of the motor. Just added some more epoxy and she's stiff as nails probably more so than the stock glassing job. shafts are still awesome jeff getting ready to order the wire drives but use the couplers you have for wire drives..don't like the idea of so many ways just to tighten the collets. The couplers work flawless. I'll just etch a spot in the wire drives for the screws to fit into.

  23. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by VIKOS View Post
    LOL just get 442's and have them balance and sharpened before they come.
    where?
    i can find a set of 42's in cf and
    ose will not s&b props you buy from them ....
    you have to buy them from him already done.
    prob just go with kintec..there afew bucks more
    but aleast i'll get them.
    Last edited by scubasteve95; 08-10-2010 at 03:45 PM.

  24. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by scubasteve95 View Post
    where?
    i can find a set of 42's in cf and
    ose will not s&b props you buy from them ....
    you have to buy them from him already done.
    prob just go with kintec..there afew bucks more
    but aleast i'll get them.
    Ose has a section for balanced and sharpened props. Unfortunately they are out of stock. The 442's are metal not CF. They don't make a CF-42, just a 40.

  25. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by VIKOS View Post
    Flex shafts..but order two sets from you and the upgraded 4 set screw couplers. Couplers are awesome kept the flex shaft lodged in the hole lol. Again I think its from movement of the motor. Just added some more epoxy and she's stiff as nails probably more so than the stock glassing job. shafts are still awesome jeff getting ready to order the wire drives but use the couplers you have for wire drives..don't like the idea of so many ways just to tighten the collets. The couplers work flawless. I'll just etch a spot in the wire drives for the screws to fit into.
    Which is a coupler and which is a collet?? OSE lists both styles as couplers.

  26. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    Which is a coupler and which is a collet?? OSE lists both styles as couplers.
    From my understanding,a collet is something that you use wrenches on-the same that we run on our EKOS.A coupler is what the stock EKOS has with the set-screws.

  27. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by larrysdrifter View Post
    from my understanding,a collet is something that you use wrenches on-the same that we run on our ekos.a coupler is what the stock ekos has with the set-screws.
    correct

  28. #88
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    yep for the right term of course both are a form of coupler but most gas boats and nitros run collets..personally the couplers for wire drive that jeff has will just barely fit the wire drives..meaning unlike the flex style theres no opening thats a lil bigger its about the exact size the nyou have two sets of sets screws piercing the wire drives which makes for a really good hold.my flex couplers hold amazingly..can't amagine the wire drive couplers...

  29. #89
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    The thing about using set screw couplers on the flex cables is, if you're cables are not soldered, then the set screws tend to mangle the cables over time and they begin to un-wind.

  30. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    The thing about using set screw couplers on the flex cables is, if you're cables are not soldered, then the set screws tend to mangle the cables over time and they begin to un-wind.
    very true...
    its real easy to do to....
    anyone who changed a battery connector can do it.

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