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Thread: Waterproofing tip.

  1. #1
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    Default Waterproofing tip.

    Hi all,
    I am new here and wanted to share a quick Tip on waterproofing your reciever and servo.
    I used automotive type Dialectric grease and packed it into the reciever case after taking the two halves apart. Dont be scared to use a lot and cover every sq inch. I put it back together and wiped it off and plugged esc and servo back in. I took it a step further and put it in a ballon and a zip tie around the end.
    as far as the servo goes...just take the bottom lid off and completly cover the pc board with the grease and put back together. Then good to go

  2. #2
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    Its a lot simpler just to tape the hatch properly.

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    Taking the time to waterproof your electronics is a good a idea, even with a properly taped hatch. say your boat gets t-boned by another boat and punctures the hull, in race conditions your boat could be in the water for awhile taking on water.

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    Then you have bigger problems....electronics do dry out and continue to work after a dumping.

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    oh yeah I forgot electricity and water mix...........

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    Quote Originally Posted by 99z286spd View Post
    Hi all,
    I am new here and wanted to share a quick Tip on waterproofing your reciever and servo.
    I used automotive type Dialectric grease and packed it into the reciever case after taking the two halves apart. Dont be scared to use a lot and cover every sq inch. I put it back together and wiped it off and plugged esc and servo back in. I took it a step further and put it in a ballon and a zip tie around the end.
    as far as the servo goes...just take the bottom lid off and completly cover the pc board with the grease and put back together. Then good to go
    A great tip indeed. Ive been doing it for over 15 years. Learned it while running gassers that cannot be sealed.

    Also as for the tape up the hatch comment to keep things dry, although very very tru, BUT, another thing that can happen is a cooling fitting breaks loose and floods your boat Before you know it your boats half under water... Ask me how I know

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    So you have never gotten anything wet,,,dried it out and had it continue to work......wow.

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    Okay I tried sorry.... i guess ill go back to just reading what you guys have to say instead of participating.
    I do tape my hatch on very well and have always had a dry interior but it seems there was a lot of people with fried RX's. Ya they dry out...that takes time.....with the dialectric grease, they dont get WET in the first place..

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    Good info, I use liquid electrical tape that you can find at harbor freight for a few $$$ its just added insurance. I use it on my rx and esc's. Spray about 3-5 coats and lets it sit overnight. Works great, also continue to add any points you think my help other boaters and new boaters.
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99z286spd View Post
    Okay I tried sorry.... i guess ill go back to just reading what you guys have to say instead of participating.
    I do tape my hatch on very well and have always had a dry interior but it seems there was a lot of people with fried RX's. Ya they dry out...that takes time.....with the dialectric grease, they dont get WET in the first place..
    Don't be discouraged. Others might find your experiences useful. I think Doby was just stressing the need to tape up the hatch. Some guys, including myself get lazy and don't want or forget to tape up their hatches, instead relying solely on their "waterproofed" electronics. Keep the tips coming as it is useful.
    Government Moto:
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    Quote Originally Posted by domwilson View Post
    don't be discouraged. Others might find your experiences useful. I think doby was just stressing the need to tape up the hatch. Some guys, including myself get lazy and don't want or forget to tape up their hatches, instead relying solely on their "waterproofed" electronics. Keep the tips coming as it is useful.
    i'm guilty....
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99z286spd View Post
    Okay I tried sorry.... i guess ill go back to just reading what you guys have to say instead of participating.
    I do tape my hatch on very well and have always had a dry interior but it seems there was a lot of people with fried RX's. Ya they dry out...that takes time.....with the dialectric grease, they dont get WET in the first place..
    It is a very good tip and some people may have not of heard of it. Its always good to share this info now and again there is always a new boater that may read this.

    Doby after losing a very expensive MGM esc (it was Corosion X'd guess I missed a spot) to a dunking, the esc was crackling when I pulled it out of the water. I will never again not take the time to protect my electronics. I will even re coat a castle with conformal epoxy when its new.

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    IMPBA 20481S D-12

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    Quote Originally Posted by domwilson View Post
    Don't be discouraged. Others might find your experiences useful. I think Doby was just stressing the need to tape up the hatch. Some guys, including myself get lazy and don't want or forget to tape up their hatches, instead relying solely on their "waterproofed" electronics. Keep the tips coming as it is useful.
    Not me taped up every time!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99z286spd View Post
    Hi all,
    I am new here and wanted to share a quick Tip on waterproofing your reciever and servo.
    I used automotive type Dialectric grease and packed it into the reciever case after taking the two halves apart. Dont be scared to use a lot and cover every sq inch. I put it back together and wiped it off and plugged esc and servo back in. I took it a step further and put it in a ballon and a zip tie around the end.
    as far as the servo goes...just take the bottom lid off and completly cover the pc board with the grease and put back together. Then good to go
    In my experience (others may have had different results)using a balloon allows condensation to build up inside which corrodes the components, remove it after each run to let it air out.

  16. #16
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    Yeah I had a receiver in a balloon for a season and when I tok it out I was horrified at all the corosion on it. Even when the hull is dry the receivers seem to get warm and cause condensation in the balloon.
    Team Liquid Dash

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    Quote Originally Posted by egneg View Post
    Is this stuff only available through this place?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepers View Post
    In my experience (others may have had different results)using a balloon allows condensation to build up inside which corrodes the components, remove it after each run to let it air out.
    It wont corrode with Dialectric grease encasing the pc board.
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    This is what I use, works good for me. Can be purchased at harbor freight.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diesel6401 View Post
    This is what I use, works good for me. Can be purchased at harbor freight.
    I got that stuff. Got it from Wally Mart.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doby View Post
    So you have never gotten anything wet,,,dried it out and had it continue to work......wow.
    Unfortunately it doesnt always work that way. If you have had 100% luck w/ things always drying out and working, then your probably ahead of most of us on the forum.

    I for one will ALWAYS protect all my electronics w/ some sort of proofing, be it in my RC boats or on my real boat.

    Give the newb a break, his suggestion is a great one and many do not know about it. Its added insurance. Why not thank him instead of criticizing? At least thats how I saw it and I think he did as well.

    Deisels spray work great as well. Ive used in in my real boat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepers View Post
    Is this stuff only available through this place?
    No, I got mine from McMaster-Carr for a about 22.00 a can. The nice thing about this is you can check the coverage with a UV light to see if you missed a spot.
    IMPBA 20481S D-12

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    Quote Originally Posted by egneg View Post
    No, I got mine from McMaster-Carr for a about 22.00 a can. The nice thing about this is you can check the coverage with a UV light to see if you missed a spot.
    hey the UV light is neat that would help alot. Thanks for the tip!

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by 99z286spd View Post
    It wont corrode with Dialectric grease encasing the pc board.
    Thats good to know I wondered if it would corrode with the balloon and the grease.


    i have been using this on my RX's esc, servos. at least 2 coats.
    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=ose-dp270

  25. #25
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    I use been using this stuff for years its a lot like dielectric grease in a spray can also works to remove any moisture if present at the time of application just spray it on and let it dry 3-4 times never had a problem saw it at a hobby show where they had a hole flight pack in a fish tank so I know it works.

    http://www.super-lube.com/super-lube...osol-ez-68.htm

  26. #26
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    Thats a good tip using the dielectric grease.Properly taping your hatch is always worth the time it takes to do it.

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    On your ul1 video, why are your batterys inside the sponons?Thats what it looks like anyway.And your boat looks awsome too.

  28. #28
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    a great tip and alot easier than coating the pc board in epoxy...which will now be considered my old method lol. also dielectric grease work great on battery connectors and motor connectors. it helps to keep resistance way down...because as well all know a tremendous amount of resistance is passed thru our connectors. this will keep your connectors alot cooler...try it =)

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by LarrysDrifter View Post
    On your ul1 video, why are your batterys inside the sponons?Thats what it looks like anyway.And your boat looks awsome too.
    It helps with the chine walk. When I run 2x 2s i put the batts in that way. When I run 2x 4s in parallel I run the batts normal. The extra weight off 2 4s helps with my set-up. I'm still working things out and have a lot more testing. I'm going to start proping up a little and set the strut angle a little negative.
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