Castle ICE ESC and Pistix

[Raydee]

Ok I am using a Castle Ice controller and a Pistix adapter in one of my hulls. I am also using a Spektrum DX3R radio. The first thing I did was bind the receiver to the radio. Next I plugged the Pistix into the throttle channel of the receiver and plugged the other end of the pistix into a reg servo outside the boat. When I switched on the power to the receiver the pistix instructions said that the servo should move all the way to one direction. It moved but def not all the way. THe instructions then say to move the throttle trim until the servo moves as soon as you touch the throttle, I didn't need to move the trim at all because the servo started to move as soon as I gave it a little throttle. Next the instructions say to advance the throttle and move the ATV on the throttle channel until the servo maxxes out BEFORE full throttle on the TX is reached. I turned the ATV all the way to 150% and the servo still wasn't maxxed out. After scratching my head I decided to plug the pistix into the ESC and give it a shot. I have the ESC set to Airplane mode and auto calibrate for the throttle. When I power the ESC it powers like normal and arms pefectly BUT the ESC instructions say that in Auto Calibrate mode the throttle needs to be set to full for 4 seconds to calibrate the throttle every time you power up the model. I am assuming since I am using the Pistix that this doesn't apply? Anyway when I give the controller full throttle I can see that the red light on the ESC is Lit solid so I am assuming that the Pistix and ESC are working properly. I guess I just want to make sure that I have everything right before I hit the lake.

[BakedMopar]

That 4 seconds thing must be new firmware. My 100 doesn't need to be set everytime. Plug it in it will give the intial tones and then one beep for each cell (auto cell count mode). Once all the beeps are done go run.

Could just be I don't read the entire manual....

[Raydee]

Well it seems to arm fine and the ESC is getting full throttle sooooooo it must be ok to run. Did you get your Ice 200 yet? Was reading that guys are pulling some serious amps from this controller in high performance planes and jets so I figure that my boat setup shouldn't be to bad on it at all

[BakedMopar]

Did you get your Ice 200 yet?

NOPE still on order. Hope you have good luck with it.

[AndyKunz]

Hi Ray,

You should be good to go with the PiStix and Ice.

I just tested it with mine here, and it looks like you're OK. You shouldn't need to use automatic mode, though. The PiStix will output a 1.0ms signal (-125% ATV) when it sees neutral. When it sees 2.0ms (+125% ATV) it outputs 2.0ms. You should be able to see a "full throttle" (1.9ms for most aircraft ESCs) when you put 1.95ms in. I recommend 150% ATV (2.1ms) so that you get full throttle a little before you finish pulling the trigger, and then you adjust it downward until you get full throttle just as you hit max on the trigger.

Thanks for asking. To test it I had to get my Elam out and I had a 4S set from Jim Clark in it that I totally forgot about!

Andy

[AndyKunz]

BTW, if you're only running boats with your 3R, it's pretty easy to modify the trigger so it doesn't center any more (the trigger pulls to full brake position). That's how I have my 3R set, and I don't need a PiStix any more with aircraft ESCs.

Andy

[Raydee]

Thanks for the info Andy, I was hoping you would chime in. I do have my ATV at 150% and it seems to be doing exactly what it was designed to do. Thanks for designing the Pistix, great product!

[Raydee]

Well I also use it for both my 1/8th scale Truggy and Short course truck, so I will still need the Pistix.

[AndyKunz]

My pleasure. I never expected to sell more than the first 50 or 100 pieces and I think the total is close to 400 or 500 now. The newest version is really general-purpose - it can be reprogrammed to be a mixer, a failsafe, and several other things.

Andy

[BakedMopar]

Did you get to run it?

[Raydee]

No not yet, maybe Wed or Thursday if the weather permits.

[Raydee]

Hey Andy when you get a chance shoot me a Email to Raydee at Roadrunner dot com with instructions on how to mod the throttle trigger on my DX3R so it goes to full brake, instead of neutral. I think I may want to try my boat without the pistix and see if it works any different.

[Raydee]

Well it looks like a Pistix adapter isn't needed with airplane ESC's if you are using the Spektrum DX3R radio!!

[BakedMopar]

That's nice to know. How is the 200 working for you.

[Raydee]

don't know yet, I will try it this weekend for sure. I wanted to get the radio setup first and NOT have to use the Pistix.

[Fluid]

I've run my ICE 100/PiStix combo (from OSE) numerous times in my SprintCat 40/60 driving a Scorpion HK4025/6 on 6S1P, and it has been interesting. Through the logging feature I discovered I was pulling more amps than I thought I was - on one run the current peaks were 170A and the ESC reached 290F! I had a fan circulating air inside the hull but not blowing directly on the ESC.

On-the-water rpm were just as expected, but battery voltage (old FlightPower 30C/4500s) dropped a lot further than I had thought they would under load, down to under 3.3 volts per cell at 150 amps. Guess I need new packs or should be running 2P. This is really too little ESC for the setup, but I wanted to see what it would do.

The ICE 100 had no issues for me, it was pretty much plug-and-play. As long as I didn't set the LVC too high it ran as long as I wanted. I was shocked it did not thermal at the high temperature it reached on one run, but some documentation I read somewhere said it had a temperature cut off of well over 200F. I ran it with AUTO CALIBRATING THROTTLE, 15 degrees timing advance, 3.1 volt LVC, NORMAL current limiting, SOFT START, and OUTRUNNER MODE for PWM. The PiStix was completely transparent - thanks Andy!

So far I'm very satisfied with the ICE and there were no surprises other than the lack of thermal shutdown. I'll probably get a higher-amp version of the ICE for the SprintCat and use this one in the LSH or another Spec-powered boat.


.

[Raydee]

Nice to see you are having good results with the Ice controller. I have talked with PLENTY of guys that are using the ICE controllers well above their max amp ratings and are having excellent results. Some guys are pulling over 400 amps from the Ice 200 in hot plane setups. My first Ice 200 was just faulty because I ran another Ice 200 today at the pond and it ran perfecly. I think the throttle response felt smoother than the normal Hydra series. I see that on Castle's site they are releasing the Ice 150 soon, should be perfect for most 4s applications. I may put one in my new Phil Thomas Stealth hull.

[sailr]

Are those of you using the ICE controller in boats actually water cooling them?

[Raydee]

Nope and I have no plans to water cool mine. If they end up running hotter than I like I will fan cool mine.

[sailr]

Good to hear! I've been looking at the ICE controllers but didn't want the hassle of water cooling them. Don't mind doing a fan! It will be interesting to see how much more the ICE Hydras will be, just for adding a couple of $5 cooling plates!

[Fluid]

Marine controllers are usually more expensive than comparable airplane controllers, but not just because of a few additional parts. ESC attrition in FE boating is far higher than in airplanes due to the higher amp draw and different cooling efficiency, so the warranty costs and return rate are far higher. To make up for these additional costs the manufacturer has to charge more for the product. Those in business can understand the difference.


.

[sailr]

Yep, you're right. forgot about the high failure rate so they have to jack the price to the moon to cover it. Now we know why Castle controllers are so outrageous!

[Jeepers]

Yep, you're right. forgot about the high failure !

the failure rates would not be so high if people used a little brains, instead of " I wonder what it will do on 6 or 8S" on a set up thats already "hot" on 4s! I hear it at the lake often.

[BakedMopar]

I have fan cooled one and I water cooled another. The water cooled one ran about 7-10 degrees cooler. I just ran two tubes through the heatsink case close to the fets.

These Ice controller are very nice. It's butter smoothe and is very adjustable. Still waiting for my 200

[sailr]

Yes, there are the dumbdumbs out there that will always try to push their equipment with disastrous results. However, I have seen too many CC controllers burn up just by plugging them in and also seen a lot of them fry when used correctly. I believe Castle finally has them to the point where the latest ones off the line are more reliable. But then I have also seen $700 Schultze controllers burn up on plug in by VERY experienced racers who KNOW what they're doing.

Bottom line is there doesn't seem to be a perfect controller out there right now. I have better luck with the Seaking 180's for under $100 than I do with Castle at three times that price.

the failure rates would not be so high if people used a little brains, instead of " I wonder what it will do on 6 or 8S" on a set up thats already "hot" on 4s! I hear it at the lake often.

[Jeepers]

Bottom line is there doesn't seem to be a perfect controller out there right now.

I agree, but as everyone points out that racers are few in numbers compared to sport boaters.

[sailr]

I agree the majority are sport boaters but even they seem to want to go faster, faster, faster! I sell my boats set up for optimum hull speed. They're fast! But inevitably somebody asks "what can I do to make it go faster?" There is a point at which the boats become uncontrollable so what's the point? Haha.

[sailr]

BakedMopar,

What's the deal on a 200A ICE controller? I don't see it on the Castle website at all. More info please! How can we order one?

[Raydee]

The ice 200 was on the castle site last time I looked.

[BakedMopar]

I had mines on back order for months now. They're seams to be a few of them out there. I just not one of em. Yes they are still available from what I know. There is the 160HV version too.