seaking 180a esc, v2 waterproof?

[yurkanip]

As the title says, I have just purchased a new replacement esc, the v2 180a. For use in my H&M ss.21 Hydro running Neu 1515 1y, s220 prop on 4s 5000 turnigy. From those of you who run this esc...are they actually waterpfoof, as claimed from hobbycity? I have done some research..and seem to find contradicting info on how waterproof they are....right out of the box.

AND in addition to the waterproofing question...do these current v2 versions, have lvc cutoff that actually works? (the reason I ask if I have some old 80a and 120 versions of the seaking and the low voltage..kicks in, in less than a minute on any setting with the above setup, unless It is turned off)

Anyone using these, have to do any preventative sealing (pics or info would be nice) OR are they good to go right out of the box?. I never plan on running my hulls filled with water obviously...but as we all know, occasionally it gets in. I am looking for current info on this v2 esc.

Thanks again

[forescott]

I have the same setup in my converted thundercat. turnigy/seaking 180, castle 1515 1y, 4s, m545. I rolled my boat a few weeks ago, cracked the hatch and all the electronics were underwater for a couple of minutes. I blew the esc out with compressed air and it was fine. I will be adding some type of waterproofing around the seams of the plastic case before I run it again though!

[properchopper]

I'd cal them "splashproof". Put some sealer of your choice around the seam where the plastic box attaches.

[yurkanip]

Thanks guys...that is what I was looking for. I have looked very closely at the esc..and that seam, was the only questionable part on the esc...they do look well made.

[suckmywake]

I just got a new one of these Turnigy 180a esc. I removed the 4 screws on the heat sink and dicovered no sealing on top of esc. The heat sink was just sitting on the square plastic piece and that was just sitting on main board without any sealing or gasket. Also the 4 screws were not sealed. So any water getting in on top will leak down into bottom. I used silicone and sealed up the main board to plastic to heat sink and used some on screws heads. I also removed bottom and resealed with silicone. I will be using external bec with red wire removed from plug.
Hope this helps.

[sailr]

There's no gasket in there?

[suckmywake]

Not on the one I have.

[Fluid]

Guys, it is never a good idea to use silicone sealants on electronics. Many of them release acetic acid during the curring process, and the acid fumes can corrode the electronics. If you just have to use it on an ESC, try to find the variety which does not release the acid fumes. You can smell the acidic fumes easily.




.

[suckmywake]

You are correct there is better stuff than silicone sealant to use on esc. I personally do not think it is worth the cost of product and shipping to buy special sealant for this. I know some use sensor safe car silicone for sealing up esc. As far as I know I never had an esc die from silicone but had many that die from water and heat. I am much more afraid of water and heat than silicone fumes. I think the important part is to keep water out and keep esc cool. Just my 2cents and I reserve the right to change my mind at any time.

Thanks and you are right

[Zephrus]

Has anybody tried the Seaking 180A v2 over the Turnigy 180A? Is there any difference between these two?

I seem to remember all the Seakings were pulled, except for the 30A and 180A, but now there's a 2nd version apparently, even for the Seaking 180. It's a bit confusing.

I just order a Turnigy 180A from HK yesterday.

Turnigy 180A ESC

Hoping I don't have problems with it. I do plan to re-grease the FETs to the heat sink and waterproof it immediately.

[sailr]

"Turnigy" is just Hobbyking's house label they put on everything from soup to nuts. The Turnigy IS the Seaking. Same exact controller.

[Zephrus]

Thanks. My concern is that I might have gotten the "older" model ESC, as some of them are labeled "v2." Such as at HiModel:

http://www.himodel.com/electric/Seak...r_Boat_V2.html

I wonder if this is an upgraded model .. maybe no more problems with the LVC and BEC?

[m4a1usr]

Has anybody tried the Seaking 180A v2 over the Turnigy 180A? Is there any difference between these two?

I just got in a couple of the newest version Turnigy 180's and there are subtle differences between the 2 controllers at first glance. But I dont own a recently purchased/ latest version SeaKing 180 to have in hand to verify the differences.

The most obvious difference is that the factory now solders and peens on a solder stubb for the battery and motor wires. If you look at the ones being sold as Seakings you can see the wires go thru the PCB board and get soldered directly to the backside of the board. The newest Turnigy has a gold plated stubb or recepticle that the wire gets directly soldered into. Probably because of the issues earlier versions had with the wires comming off the PCB when they get hot. Hopefully they layered the board with more copper to help with conductivity too. The bottom plastic covered is still not sealed to prevent water entry in to the micro processor board. But its an easy job to lay down a bead if you want to go around the outer edge.

John