You dont happen to have part numbers on those boca bearings do you???
You dont happen to have part numbers on those boca bearings do you???
Boca Ultra Seal Hybrid Ceramics:
Flanged: SMF74C-YUU NB2
Non: SMR74C-YUUNB2
These are for the stock EKOS stingers.
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Drugtest
Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011 at 11:03 PM.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks guys!
Where is a good place to purchase these? Are they pricey?
Theyre not TOO bad, they do cost a bit more than others, but as we've heard a million times its better to by smart once..
Now if we were talkin' cars and bashing, nope save your dime, but we're talkin' boats here. Reliabillity is key as a bearing submerged in water spinning profusely is an extreme situation.
These bearings last a LONG time you'd definitely go through 4-5 sets of regular bearings before noticing anything alarming on these
bottom line yes a considerable initial cost but cost effectiveness you're getting 2-3 times your money's worth
www.bocabearings.com
Don't know of anyone that discounts them much if any. Boca Bearings are usually a one time purchase (in my experience) so really don't mind just paying retail for them.
I've been spinning mine over 30k in salt water for a while now... no troubles.
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Romanian cooking
Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011 at 11:03 PM.
Screw bearings. Run a bushing. When/If it wears out, replace it. Whats the need for a bearing? You're getting resistance in the flex in every little bend. Smooth bearings mean nothing when your prop is ripping through the water. We're not talking about free wheeling here, right?
Well, I figured out the purpose of the teflon spacer in the stinger today. I noticed one of my prop shafts was really "wiggly" compared to the other. turns out the front bearing slid back towards the end of the stinger. The teflon tube is a spacer between the two bearings that keeps the front bearing from sliding backwards. The front bearing is inserted from the rear, then the spacer, then the rear bearing is pressed in place.(or super-glued like mine because it keeps coming out)
bill,nice up-grade on the stingers
when the time comes that will be the set up i run with.
thanx for a great idea.......
I agree. One thing I realized is you have to be real careful not to leave too much space between the stinger and drive dog because the prop shafts are a little short and too much space will cause the flex cable to ride inside the inner bearing instead of the prop shaft itself.
1 question i do have is,
will the rear bearing hold the rod in place (tight so it spins with the shaft)
mine fits nice and snug (a few taps with a wooden handle sets it)
but do you think i need to glue it too?
or are you holding it in place another way?
I wouldnt glue the inner bearing in fear that it would be too hard to get it out. Thats what the teflon spacer is for. I had to glue one of my outer bearings because it would pop out occasionally. It just isnt a tight enough fit to stay in place on its own.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but to help reduce friction, the spacer should be as large as possible and still fit in the stinger, leaving the most amount of room for the drive cable. If it spins too much with the cable, it will create more friction, as it has a larger circumference than the smaller drive cable. But, the difference at that level is negligible and probably won't be noticeable either way, with the exception of slightly more heat from the additional friction.
Clean out your PM box.
thats what i am asking(outer bearing)
the inner bearing will be set in place and held there by the tube and outer bearing
the outer bearing will still be able to move a very little making the tube loose,
because of the small amount of space left between the
strut and drive dog,even if the outer bearing is snug
would you still glue it?
Last edited by scubasteve95; 06-03-2010 at 09:05 AM.
After designing and building 100+ struts and stingers with bearings I don't get it. No need for a spacer if the strut is machined right. If not and it is just a tube then a spacer would be needed to keep it from moving. Super glue or locitite reatainign compound should hold them fine unless the tube is not machined. I would machine them and move up a size in bearings. My struts are designed to have the bearing pressed in now.
Bill, got youre request....I will consider it but you have to go out and set some records and have my name on your boat. :) I plan to get some decals made so people can use them...had a bunch of reqiests for them.
Definitely a logical thought, but the outter bearing fits pretty snug and is flanged which prevents it from being sucked into the strut, and the drive dog holds it from popping out.
The inner bearing is the culprit of moving. Glue and other adhesives sound great, but even with a well ballanced prop, the harmony of the shaft spinning will break it free.
The only way to keep these things aligned is through a pressed fit, or a metal spaced retainer..
Answer to the question not needed.. Sometimes if you run a grossly unballanced prop, you'll destroy the fit of the outter bearing making it loose and in those cases I've been able sometines to press the metal to get a snug fit, but in many cases the strut is ruined once that outter bearing loses its fit..
Great question!
Thanx jeff & bill for all the quantity and quality
of info on that one..........
Don't need anything now but when i do jeff i will
hit you up for a pair of pro stingers and bearings
thanx again.........
See it....find the photos.....sketch it it....build it........with wood
Yeah, the teflon does'nt do anything but keep the inner bearing from slipping backwards. The front and rear stinger bearings support the side load. I think adding anything between the two bearings that touches the prop shaft will just increase friction and heat. Thats why I used a piece of 3/16" prop shaft teflon tubing. Its small enough to fit inside the stinger, but large enough that the prop shaft fits inside it with plenty of slop.
I feel like a moron had an extra dog gear in the venom package which does fit the rcraceboat shafts and the screws are actually more flush due to being smaller so before I use any new hardware I'm gona run these parts first...aight off to the marina to test out this bad boy..haven't ran it in months then off the the post office to grab my parts.
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