By carpeting, are you using the loop side of the velcro? I get so much "loop lint" when I do it that way. Mix it with a bit of shaft grease and bilge water and it can get nasty. I've started using the hook side on the boat and putting the loop on the devices. Just curious which way it's going in and why. The "carpeted" loop side does help soak up any water inside though. =)
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AROMED VAPORIZER
Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011 at 09:58 PM.
Turns out the box that came from Novak was speedos..
2 newer series GTB speedos.
The new ones have a clear case. I love clear cases..
I want to try to get away with placing the speedos here..
Great question sir, I'm going to try and get away with running them in the sponsons just ahead of the motors.
I idealy run cats that way, it keeps the weight low in the hull, the batteries benefit from the modest cooling, and it seems an all around more stable way to run a cat.
Next, I'll "carpet" the sponsons..
Only problem is, that puts your c.o.g. waaaay forward. It'll be hard to get optimum speed/handling. Worth a try! At least the ekos would lose some of its top-heaviness.
I agree, but I'm putting a considerable amount more power. Its basicly a SAW setup, it may work or may not but I'm willing to bet the boat will want a little more weight in the front than with the stock setup..
Its kinda like when we used to run N-1 and N-2 mono with 21 inch hulls and brushed motors, the N-1 setup runs the battery WAY back, then the N-2 setup had the battery way farther forward..
I see the stock setup as very low torque like an N-1 setup but its all yet to be seen.
Your concern is definitely a valid one..
OK felloe skippers, I carpeted the inside of the sponsons for battery or speedo placement, whatever this boat lets us get away with..
This morning I got up and decided to make a custom 'Y" harness of Novak plugs since using a conventional y harness will make for too many plugs.
1) I cut 3 leads to equal length
2) Slid shrink wrap over the main input first one big one, then 3 tiny ones to cover each wire
3) Next I pre-tinned the wires.
4) Now its time to solder them together.
5) Next solder the 2 leads together coded by color
6) Now its time to solder the 2 output leads to the input lead color coding the wires again
7) Now you want to shrink the 3 individual leads
8) Slide the larger shrink over the 3 leads and shrink and shrink
Now you've done it pal! you're the man! You wired up a custom harness!
Well well well look what we have here..
I found a set of gems that will make this upgrade VERY EEnteresting..
Check out these 4mm shafts I found in my ETTI box!
One has an aluminum prop nut, and is of high quality steel, and the other has a 1/8 inch step down!!
Yes, I do have 2 of each as well lol
The 1/8 inch step down opens MANY doors to an assortment of octura props, and will allow me to experiment with some high KV options.
I'm brave enough to try a set of Novak Ballistic 3.5 motors in the sucker!
Rumor has it that Boca Bearings is sending a set of rubber seal ceramic bearings to hold whatever power we throw at this project..
Look what have we here.. Two sets of top quality orange rubber seal ceramic bearings came in the mail from Boca Bearings.
Guys, these are ABEC 7 bearings..
Thanx Boca!!
Bill, what do you think of the Ceramic Ultra Seal bearings?
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Jugalettes
Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011 at 10:36 PM.
I'm not gonna' lie to ya' pal, Boca almost dropped me as a driver because I wasn't using enough product wanna' know why?
Because none of my bearings will fail, gum up, rust out, get "gritty" or end up with play in them.
I ordered a batch and haven't needed to replace any and that was the yellow seal bearings!
These orange seal are kicking out the same relentless reliability, only smoother if you can believe it. This is no "fluffing" or product promotion just the facts.
Read any testimony on these bearings, I haven't but I'm sure its mostly positive..
Bill, I meant the Boca Ultra-Seal Ceramics! The Boca rep said they were better than the orange seal, so am curious if you have tried them.
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New Jersey Dispensary
Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011 at 10:36 PM.
Since I run in salt water, I wanted to make sure I had a good sealed bearing. The ultra seal bearings are steel over rubber and supposed to have a much "better" seal if you can imagine. I've heard nothing but good about Boca Bearings! =)
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Yamaha Yz125 Specifications
Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011 at 10:37 PM.
Regardless, with this much power and high CG, the boat will handle like *!***!***!***!**. I've been running mine on 5S with 540's and flipped it numerous times, even with the CG as low as I could get it. This boat is basically only good for SAW runs after any amount of extra weight has been added..
The RTR Nightmare- Electric King of Shaves
Now with 540s- 62mph
New setup- Etti 150A's, Turnigy 2600s, 5S, X442s and a whole lot of cooling hoses
Ok boys we're gonna' start this strut upgrade and first we will remove the strut from the transom..
figure 2 shows how the transom looks with the strut removed.
The strut is a nice CNC machined unit of high quality.
Last edited by BILL OXIDEAN; 05-30-2010 at 11:39 AM.
Ok fellas, now we've gotta' remove these bearings. When recessed in aluminum, I like to heat whatever the bearings are pressed in for easu removal.
I prefer to use a soldering iron for this procedure.
Next we want to press the bearings out. using a large diameter diver, I press the bearings out from the inside starting with the rear output bearing then the front.
Using a large diameter driver assures you don't damage the bearings in the process..
Now that I've got the bearings out, I noticed this teflon spacer.
A trip to Franciscan hobbies in the morning will yield us a piece of brass tubing for a pro setup.. See you cats manyana..
Before installing anything, I first sprayed out any existing grease with electric motor spray
Last edited by BILL OXIDEAN; 05-30-2010 at 11:38 AM.
Stemming from being an 80's heavy metaller I prefer metal spacers
I went ahead and picked up some K&S aluminum tubing stock#104 3/16x.014
With my tubing cutter I cut and de-burred 2 7/8 inch pieces after measuring the distance between the bearings front and rear.
Ok, now its time to press the bearings.
Starting with the front bearing, using a large diameter philips screwdriver, I pressed the bearing in.
Next I inserted the spacer, then pressed the rear bearing in and voilla! You've got an Oxidean style Boca Bearing upgraded strut!
viola
Did you cross drill any holes in the spacer tube? I've seen that before, not sure of the purpose other than to help with lubrication of the hard prop shaft.
Curious to hear a racer's take on it.
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Michigan marijuana dispensary
Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011 at 11:01 PM.
Is the spacer really necessary? I took mine out when one of the bearings came loose. I didnt see how it really did anything.
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