Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 31 to 60 of 121

Thread: Upgrade motors for King of Shaves

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BILL OXIDEAN View Post
    Thanx for the update Forescott! Yes that IS fast for 3s.
    How was the torque? did it launch "snappier', did it hold its speed in the corners?
    Definetly feels torquier. Not sure about the cornering ability. I take the corners like my grandmother in her 1968 mercury cougar. Slow and easy!

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    3,480

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BILL OXIDEAN View Post
    Ok boys, back to the project at hand, what I've done here is a procedure I call "carpeting"

    After removing the battery tray, and all of its epoxy residue, i wiped the glass center pod down with solvent to get a clean mating surface, then carpeted the whole belly pan with velcro.

    I like going this route at first to give me versatility in component placement for CG.
    By carpeting, are you using the loop side of the velcro? I get so much "loop lint" when I do it that way. Mix it with a bit of shaft grease and bilge water and it can get nasty. I've started using the hook side on the boat and putting the loop on the devices. Just curious which way it's going in and why. The "carpeted" loop side does help soak up any water inside though. =)
    ________
    AROMED VAPORIZER
    Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011 at 09:58 PM.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BenjaminR View Post
    By carpeting, are you using the loop side of the velcro? I get so much "loop lint" when I do it that way. Mix it with a bit of shaft grease and bilge water and it can get nasty. I've started using the hook side on the boat and putting the loop on the devices. Just curious which way it's going in and why. The "carpeted" loop side does help soak up any water inside though. =)
    Hey Benjamin, I'm trying to upload pics but it wont let me, I use the hook side in the boat and the "fuzzy" side on devices. Yes the fuzzy soaks a little water, but will also retain water in the hull..

    It dosen't make a huge difference more one of prefference..
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default Speedos

    Turns out the box that came from Novak was speedos..
    2 newer series GTB speedos.

    The new ones have a clear case. I love clear cases..

    I want to try to get away with placing the speedos here..
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    3,480

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BILL OXIDEAN View Post
    Hey Benjamin, I'm trying to upload pics but it wont let me, I use the hook side in the boat and the "fuzzy" side on devices. Yes the fuzzy soaks a little water, but will also retain water in the hull..

    It dosen't make a huge difference more one of preference..
    Nice.
    ________
    Mazda 929 history
    Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011 at 09:59 PM.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BILL OXIDEAN View Post
    Turns out the box that came from Novak was speedos..
    2 newer series GTB speedos.

    The new ones have a clear case. I love clear cases..

    I want to try to get away with placing the speedos here..
    Where are you gonna put the batteries?

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    Where are you gonna put the batteries?

    Great question sir, I'm going to try and get away with running them in the sponsons just ahead of the motors.

    I idealy run cats that way, it keeps the weight low in the hull, the batteries benefit from the modest cooling, and it seems an all around more stable way to run a cat.

    Next, I'll "carpet" the sponsons..

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    Only problem is, that puts your c.o.g. waaaay forward. It'll be hard to get optimum speed/handling. Worth a try! At least the ekos would lose some of its top-heaviness.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by forescott View Post
    Only problem is, that puts your c.o.g. waaaay forward. It'll be hard to get optimum speed/handling. Worth a try! At least the ekos would lose some of its top-heaviness.
    I agree, but I'm putting a considerable amount more power. Its basicly a SAW setup, it may work or may not but I'm willing to bet the boat will want a little more weight in the front than with the stock setup..

    Its kinda like when we used to run N-1 and N-2 mono with 21 inch hulls and brushed motors, the N-1 setup runs the battery WAY back, then the N-2 setup had the battery way farther forward..

    I see the stock setup as very low torque like an N-1 setup but its all yet to be seen.
    Your concern is definitely a valid one..

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default The beat goes on..

    OK felloe skippers, I carpeted the inside of the sponsons for battery or speedo placement, whatever this boat lets us get away with..
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default

    This morning I got up and decided to make a custom 'Y" harness of Novak plugs since using a conventional y harness will make for too many plugs.

    1) I cut 3 leads to equal length

    2) Slid shrink wrap over the main input first one big one, then 3 tiny ones to cover each wire

    3) Next I pre-tinned the wires.

    4) Now its time to solder them together.

    5) Next solder the 2 leads together coded by color

    6) Now its time to solder the 2 output leads to the input lead color coding the wires again

    7) Now you want to shrink the 3 individual leads

    8) Slide the larger shrink over the 3 leads and shrink and shrink

    Now you've done it pal! you're the man! You wired up a custom harness!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default Putting Out

    Well well well look what we have here..

    I found a set of gems that will make this upgrade VERY EEnteresting..
    Check out these 4mm shafts I found in my ETTI box!

    One has an aluminum prop nut, and is of high quality steel, and the other has a 1/8 inch step down!!

    Yes, I do have 2 of each as well lol

    The 1/8 inch step down opens MANY doors to an assortment of octura props, and will allow me to experiment with some high KV options.

    I'm brave enough to try a set of Novak Ballistic 3.5 motors in the sucker!

    Rumor has it that Boca Bearings is sending a set of rubber seal ceramic bearings to hold whatever power we throw at this project..
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default Uh Oh..

    Look what have we here.. Two sets of top quality orange rubber seal ceramic bearings came in the mail from Boca Bearings.

    Guys, these are ABEC 7 bearings..
    Thanx Boca!!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    3,480

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BILL OXIDEAN View Post
    Look what have we here.. Two sets of top quality orange rubber seal ceramic bearings came in the mail from Boca Bearings.

    Guys, these are ABEC 7 bearings..
    Thanx Boca!!
    Bill, what do you think of the Ceramic Ultra Seal bearings?
    ________
    Jugalettes
    Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011 at 10:36 PM.

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FighterCat57 View Post
    Bill, what do you think of the Ceramic Ultra Seal bearings?
    I'm not gonna' lie to ya' pal, Boca almost dropped me as a driver because I wasn't using enough product wanna' know why?

    Because none of my bearings will fail, gum up, rust out, get "gritty" or end up with play in them.

    I ordered a batch and haven't needed to replace any and that was the yellow seal bearings!

    These orange seal are kicking out the same relentless reliability, only smoother if you can believe it. This is no "fluffing" or product promotion just the facts.

    Read any testimony on these bearings, I haven't but I'm sure its mostly positive..

  16. #46
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    3,480

    Default

    Bill, I meant the Boca Ultra-Seal Ceramics! The Boca rep said they were better than the orange seal, so am curious if you have tried them.
    ________
    New Jersey Dispensary
    Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011 at 10:36 PM.

  17. #47
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FighterCat57 View Post
    Bill, I meant the Boca Ultra-Seal Ceramics! The Boca rep said they were better than the orange seal, so am curious if you have tried them.
    Sorry bud, I haven't tried those yet, but I DO recommend rubber shielded bearings for marine apps even the fishing guys stay with rubber

    I bet they fly though from what I've heard..

  18. #48
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    3,480

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BILL OXIDEAN View Post
    Sorry bud, I haven't tried those yet, but I DO recommend rubber shielded bearings for marine apps even the fishing guys stay with rubber

    I bet they fly though from what I've heard..
    Since I run in salt water, I wanted to make sure I had a good sealed bearing. The ultra seal bearings are steel over rubber and supposed to have a much "better" seal if you can imagine. I've heard nothing but good about Boca Bearings! =)
    ________
    Yamaha Yz125 Specifications
    Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011 at 10:37 PM.

  19. #49
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FighterCat57 View Post
    Since I run in salt water, I wanted to make sure I had a good sealed bearing. The ultra seal bearings are steel over rubber and supposed to have a much "better" seal if you can imagine. I've heard nothing but good about Boca Bearings! =)
    Sounds about right!

  20. #50
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    TX
    Posts
    423

    Default

    Regardless, with this much power and high CG, the boat will handle like *!***!***!***!**. I've been running mine on 5S with 540's and flipped it numerous times, even with the CG as low as I could get it. This boat is basically only good for SAW runs after any amount of extra weight has been added..
    The RTR Nightmare- Electric King of Shaves
    Now with 540s- 62mph
    New setup- Etti 150A's, Turnigy 2600s, 5S, X442s and a whole lot of cooling hoses

  21. #51
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default Strut removal

    Ok boys we're gonna' start this strut upgrade and first we will remove the strut from the transom..

    figure 2 shows how the transom looks with the strut removed.

    The strut is a nice CNC machined unit of high quality.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by BILL OXIDEAN; 05-30-2010 at 11:39 AM.

  22. #52
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default Bearing Removal

    Ok fellas, now we've gotta' remove these bearings. When recessed in aluminum, I like to heat whatever the bearings are pressed in for easu removal.

    I prefer to use a soldering iron for this procedure.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  23. #53
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default Press

    Next we want to press the bearings out. using a large diameter diver, I press the bearings out from the inside starting with the rear output bearing then the front.

    Using a large diameter driver assures you don't damage the bearings in the process..
    Attached Images Attached Images

  24. #54
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default Spacer

    Now that I've got the bearings out, I noticed this teflon spacer.
    A trip to Franciscan hobbies in the morning will yield us a piece of brass tubing for a pro setup.. See you cats manyana..
    Attached Images Attached Images

  25. #55
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default Clean work

    Before installing anything, I first sprayed out any existing grease with electric motor spray
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by BILL OXIDEAN; 05-30-2010 at 11:38 AM.

  26. #56
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default Heavy metal!

    Stemming from being an 80's heavy metaller I prefer metal spacers

    I went ahead and picked up some K&S aluminum tubing stock#104 3/16x.014

    With my tubing cutter I cut and de-burred 2 7/8 inch pieces after measuring the distance between the bearings front and rear.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  27. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default Re-Install

    Ok, now its time to press the bearings.
    Starting with the front bearing, using a large diameter philips screwdriver, I pressed the bearing in.

    Next I inserted the spacer, then pressed the rear bearing in and voilla! You've got an Oxidean style Boca Bearing upgraded strut!
    Attached Images Attached Images

  28. #58
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    3,480

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BILL OXIDEAN View Post
    Ok, now its time to press the bearings.
    Starting with the front bearing, using a large diameter philips screwdriver, I pressed the bearing in.

    Next I inserted the spacer, then pressed the rear bearing in and voilla! You've got an Oxidean style Boca Bearing upgraded strut!
    viola

    Did you cross drill any holes in the spacer tube? I've seen that before, not sure of the purpose other than to help with lubrication of the hard prop shaft.

    Curious to hear a racer's take on it.
    ________
    Michigan marijuana dispensary
    Last edited by FighterCat57; 02-14-2011 at 11:01 PM.

  29. #59
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    1,494

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FighterCat57 View Post
    viola

    Did you cross drill any holes in the spacer tube? I've seen that before, not sure of the purpose other than to help with lubrication of the hard prop shaft.

    Curious to hear a racer's take on it.
    In the old days when guys made scratch built struts, they used a piece of brass tubing as part of a bushing. The grooves reduced friction, but My method is well lubed and the spacer is frictionless. It spins with the rotating assembly.

    Good question!

  30. #60
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Ca
    Posts
    2,686

    Default

    Is the spacer really necessary? I took mine out when one of the bearings came loose. I didnt see how it really did anything.

Page 2 of 5 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •