Page 1 of 11 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 30 of 323

Thread: HOTR twin build

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    5,669

    Default HOTR twin build

    Hey folks,
    I picked up a HOTR a couple weeks ago here on the forum. She needed a bit of TLC, actually considered re-listing her, but decided Id need to make it right before or if I did that.

    One thing that really bothered me was the rudder. The transom extension where the rudder bracket attaches was cut so that the rudder bracket would slide into the hull. Then the extension was filled from the inside w/ epoxy. Im still working on getting it all out, but the rudder bracket has been hacked off the back. Im still in decision mode on what rudder to use. I want something similar to the HPR 115 rudder, but w/ out the price tag.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    5,669

    Default

    I then started working on getting the twist out of the hull. There wasnt much, but the right sponson did sit about 3/32 off the table while the left was on the table. Also, I wanted to get the ride pads flat to the table as well. 3 days, some heat, several jigs, clamps, tape and a lot of patience and she is straight as an arrow.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    5,669

    Default

    I took some CF and made some motor mounts. They are not fastened yet as Im waiting on just a couple more things so I can place everything in the hull, move stuff around and find a good location for the Feigao 10XL motors.

    Oh, and as you can see, I layed up the hull w/ 2x2 twill CF...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    CA
    Posts
    4,407

    Default

    Uh Oh! Somebody has caught the FE bug! Looking good so far!

    P.S. did you try a heat gun or hair dryer in trying to remove the epoxy?
    Government Moto:
    "Why fix it? Blame someone else for breaking it."

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    US
    Posts
    5,557

    Default

    Nice work so far! Twin XL's outta get it movin'!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    5,669

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by domwilson View Post
    Uh Oh! Somebody has caught the FE bug! Looking good so far!

    P.S. did you try a heat gun or hair dryer in trying to remove the epoxy?
    Dom.. if you only knew....

    To remove the epoxy in the extension? No. I did use the heat gun to heat the hull I dont know how many times in the straightening process though.

    Quote Originally Posted by Make-a-Wake View Post
    Nice work so far! Twin XL's outta get it movin'!
    I hope so. Im going to put it on a total of 6S. 2-3S packs in series and then split to each motor... I got a lot of info from Mudl while talking to him abou this twin BJ26. Seems like I should have a pretty sweet lil package when shes done.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    NZ
    Posts
    1,521

    Default

    I'll be following this one with interest, I may twin my bigger cat soon. XL each side. Not yet decided how big XL's

    I do like the idea of putting all of the battery power together and then splitting to the esc-motors. There was a long heated discussion here a while back about that and the jury is out on which is "right or wrong"
    Some do a whole power system per motor and some paralell the power before the esc's

    Fwiw, I am keen to paralell the power and then send it to the esc's

    Watching with interest
    See it....find the photos.....sketch it it....build it........with wood

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    370

    Default

    Man! I'm doing a twin (380) HOTR but it is a comeback of the old Budweiser Select boat after it's fire.... I have been thinking of doing another with the XL's too... Can't wait to see how yours pans out... :-) Good job!!!
    HPR C-5009, Riptide48, PaynPak 1/12, Miss Budweiser 1/8 Hydro, Miss Freya (own design 1/8 Hydro), HOR 32, Twin 380 HOR 32, Magin one

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    5,669

    Default

    Thanks for the compliments gents. Yeah, Im anxious to see how she runs.

    It came w/ SV stingers on it, but Ive decided to use them on another build and Im going w/ the HOTR anodized black Stingers. They are 4mm, but Ive been told you can drill them enough to install a sleave bearing and run 3/16 shafts. So thats the plan. Im going to try it out w/ Turnigy 120A Marine ESCs and Turnigy 3S 5000mah 35C batteries. A low pro Hitec servo (from OSE) for the steering... But still no decision on a rudder. I searched for hours last night. Got a few more ideas, but havent commited to anything yet. I was looking at using some alum C channel for a bracket, one cut in a wedge on each side and use an Octura blade.
    Something like this but longer http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=oct-oc4wrmca
    MHZ has some nice stuff too, but not very informative on their bracket footprint size.

    Any suggestions are welcome!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    HI
    Posts
    1,679

    Default

    Taked a look at these. Even has dual water pick-ups. Very nice and very nice price.

    http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXXSN6&P=Z
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    5,669

    Default

    Thanks Baked. Im suprised the EKOS only has a 75mm rudder? Thats what started my complete rebuild of another (single drive) 32" cat I have... rudder was too small. I do like that the pickups are seperate though, so I can delete them. I will be using thru hull so there is no tubing on the transom. I guess I could try my 75mm rudder and see what happens?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    pa
    Posts
    173

    Default

    wonder if u can get that for a push pull setup

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    US
    Posts
    5,557

    Default

    Just curious tiqueman..........are you running the 10XL's on 3s?....................if so it seems like not enough rpms?.........just over 20,000 unloaded...................

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    5,669

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Make-a-Wake View Post
    Just curious tiqueman..........are you running the 10XL's on 3s?....................if so it seems like not enough rpms?.........just over 20,000 unloaded...................
    No, 6S

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    US
    Posts
    5,557

    Default

    Oh, Wow!!! Thats gonna be fun! I had read above where you had posted 3s batts..............over 40k rpms unloaded!

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    5,669

    Default

    Im setting it up per a discussion w/ Mudl from the forum. 2-3S packs in series, then parallelled to each esc.

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    1,515

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tiqueman View Post
    Im setting it up per a discussion w/ Mudl from the forum. 2-3S packs in series, then parallelled to each esc.
    Kinda rough on the cells pulling 150amps plus continous.

    All the best,

    Ray

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    ON
    Posts
    693

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RayR View Post
    Kinda rough on the cells pulling 150amps plus continous.

    All the best,

    Ray
    That is what I was thinking also when you were only using a one P setup

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    OZ
    Posts
    2,865

    Default

    that boat is going to be insane, i had mine in the 60s with 1 540xl on 4s
    be interesting to see if it stays on the water

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    NS
    Posts
    304

    Default

    Great craftmanship!!!

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    5,669

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by RayR View Post
    Kinda rough on the cells pulling 150amps plus continous.

    All the best,

    Ray
    Again, as I said, it was suggested to set it up this way and has been proven to work. But, if I do have problems, changing to a different battery set up is the easiest thing to do. I will say that I am curious about it though, because those were my thoughts as well.

    Ozzie, what XL? Did you ever finish your twin build? I saw it on another forum last night.

    Thanks Jerome!

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    5,669

    Default Stuffing tube ?

    I tacked a motor mount in, trying to get the best fit for the motor. Is this too much bend for the stuffing tube?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    6,453

    Default

    As long as it spins freely you should be good. Can't you angle the motors more to get more of a straight shot?

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    5,669

    Default

    I could angle it a couple more degrees. It will put the front end of the motor almost against the lip in the deck for the hatch though. The HOTR lip comes so far down! It is easy to spin.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    MI
    Posts
    6,453

    Default

    How did you properly get the shape for the motor mounts?

  26. #26
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    IL
    Posts
    285

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by tiqueman View Post
    I tacked a motor mount in, trying to get the best fit for the motor. Is this too much bend for the stuffing tube?
    Scott,

    There are two bends in your stuffing tube, shoot for one, it will remove much of the cable drag. Also try switching out the teflon tube and run 1 size up on the cable. I removed all of the teflon from my .130 cables and now run .150 in the same tube. Just add grease and watch for the increase in rpm.

    Good luck with it! I assume that this is the same hull that was marked H & M?

    John
    "When too much is just right!"

  27. #27
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    5,669

    Default

    Johnny, yes, same hull. Its come a loooong way.

    I broke the motor mount loose and angled it as much I could and re-tacked it. And my goodness.. I barely put any epoxy on it the first time and man it bit. Twas a bear to get out. Yeah, I didnt like the "S" bend it was beginning to make. Thats why I shot the ? out there to OSE land. It may still have a very small one, put I dont think near as much as it did.

    Pics coming soon

  28. #28
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    5,669

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Rumdog View Post
    How did you properly get the shape for the motor mounts?
    oops, missed that ? The mounts that came in it were close.. but not quite. They were off the angled part of the bottom, that goes to the side. So the mount went from the flat part of the bottom of the sponson and then angled up and hit the side about 1/8 or 3/16 above where the bottom meets the side. And the mounts stopped at the hatch lip. I took a piece of balsa, traced the existing mount, then looked at the mount in the boat and drew on the balse where I thought it should be.. bunch of trial and error and I made a CF template. then made the mounts off that.

  29. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    FL
    Posts
    5,669

    Default

    Dont know why I just didnt do it like that the first time...

    Much better and now only one bend in the tube.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  30. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    AU
    Posts
    549

    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by tiqueman View Post
    I tacked a motor mount in, trying to get the best fit for the motor. Is this too much bend for the stuffing tube?
    Tiqueman,

    Here are my stuffing tubes out of the Twin Simrad Maritimo.
    She spins the props at about 37k.
    These little suckers get hot and the thick grease turns to fluid very quickly.
    The less curve on your stuffing tubes the better for less friction.
    Better to angle the motor high to get the soft curve.

    Nice build buy the way.
    Going to be very fast.

    Bonewar
    Attached Images Attached Images
    SIMRAD MARITIMO TWIN 1512 NEU'S , M12 MARITIMO SINGLE 1527 NEU , SV27 1509 NEU , SV27 NITRO O.S. 18CV-R 3.0cc WATER COOLED RACE ENGINE.

Page 1 of 11 123 ... LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •