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Thread: "Soaring Stuff" 1/6 P-Limited Crackerbox Build.

  1. #1
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    Default "Soaring Stuff" 1/6 P-Limited Crackerbox Build.

    We have built a couple of prototype Hulls and Taylor from soaring stuff has made a few needed changes and the "Soaring Stuff" 1/6 Racing Crackerbox Hull kit is just about ready to go. With that I am going to do a build of the new kit. Here is a link for some information on the Racing Crackerbox kit and about "Soaring Stuff". http://www.soaringstuff.com/crackerbox.html . I am going to do a detailed thread of the build of one of the kits. Here are a few photos of a finished, unpainted prototype hull. This is just about the hull that the kit will build. I have kind of freelanced the scoop, but this can be done at the builders choice. During the build I may do an exposed V-8 engine type hatch. This is a geat looking hull when finished.
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  2. #2
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    Before you begin,do a list of tools and supplies. building board,glue,epoxy,small wood plane,lots of clamps etc. What hardware, strut,rudder,shaft etc. What power system,motor,ESC etc? LET the build begin!!! Larry
    America home of the free, thanks to the brave [/url]

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by blizard05 View Post
    Before you begin,do a list of tools and supplies. building board,glue,epoxy,small wood plane,lots of clamps etc. What hardware, strut,rudder,shaft etc. What power system,motor,ESC etc? LET the build begin!!! Larry
    Good Idea Larry.

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    ROD you need to get a hobby!!!!! this is what........ your 10th boat since Jan 1 2010?
    LOL!
    Iam just finishing up one that I started at the end of 2008!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeepers View Post
    ROD you need to get a hobby!!!!! this is what........ your 10th boat since Jan 1 2010?
    LOL!
    Iam just finishing up one that I started at the end of 2008!
    Not sure I think I've lost count, I wonder how many boats I 've built over the years??? My first was a Dumas SK and it was a pretty new kit when I built it.

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    I just built a Dumas SK2,powerad by a SV27 setup,built my first one over 40 yrs ago,OS15 with a cool clamp, My first build was a Sterling Century sea maid, 1950-1953 Cox 049, don't remember when. Larry
    America home of the free, thanks to the brave [/url]

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    Quote Originally Posted by blizard05 View Post
    I just built a Dumas SK2,powerad by a SV27 setup,built my first one over 40 yrs ago,OS15 with a cool clamp, My first build was a Sterling Century sea maid, 1950-1953 Cox 049, don't remember when. Larry
    It was about that long ago when I built my 1st SK Daddle, How does the SK 2 run with the SV-27 power?
    Last edited by Hydromaniac; 02-17-2010 at 10:39 AM.

  8. #8
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    I built one of the little SK's with an .049 in it. Never could keep the stupid engine running! Sure was a pretty little booger though!
    Mini Cat Racing USA
    www.minicatracingusa.com

  9. #9
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    That's a lot prettier hull than the other floating about here in the forum. The other one seems to have a squarish transition from side to bow. Kinda weird lookin.
    Mini Cat Racing USA
    www.minicatracingusa.com

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hydromaniac View Post
    It was about that long ago when I built my 1st SK Daddle, How does the SK 2 run with the SV-27 power?
    I thought I was the only old toot on here. Havn't run it yet, the water is still hard, I only have nicad batterys. an I run 2 in series? What lipo batterys can I run ?? I am new to FE. I did my SK in silver with black hatch and mahog fore deck ,sorry I can't post pics. We are geting OT you wil have to start a new build thread Larry
    America home of the free, thanks to the brave [/url]

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by blizard05 View Post
    I thought I was the only old toot on here. Havn't run it yet, the water is still hard, I only have nicad batterys. an I run 2 in series? What lipo batterys can I run ?? I am new to FE. I did my SK in silver with black hatch and mahog fore deck ,sorry I can't post pics. We are geting OT you wil have to start a new build thread Larry
    I forgot you have hard water where you live too. Yes you can run nicads in series. But not sure how bad the brushless system will punish them, You can run just about any of the lipos that are out now, I am using 2- 2s (7.4volts each) 5000 mah NUE 30c packs. There are a lot of lipos that will fit the set up. We did get off topic a bit but thats fine. we can redirect it once I start the build which will be in the next few days, I hope to start this weekend.

  12. #12
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    Great,don't forget the building parts list. What size rudder should I use on my 1/6 build 21 size or larger? Zipp has some good hardware at a good price. Larry
    America home of the free, thanks to the brave [/url]

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    Default Got side tracked,

    I plan to start this build in a few days, I have been working on a restoration project that the finish deadline was moved up so it took 1st up to get done, It is really a neat project and was one of the very 1st FE boats that I can find. It was originaly built in 1937 by the Hacker Boat Company and was an all electric running display model. I am doing a full restoration and power up grade to her. It was very rough when I started a few weeks back Here are some photos of what I started with.
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  14. #14
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    Here she is today after complete tear down, I replaced all of the bulkheads, stringers, battons ect and rebuilt everything, Then added a new sub deck and all new Mahogany planking, Most every thing had to be one of a kind hand built as nothing is available in this size, It just about ready for paint, final clear coats and finish details, should be done this week.
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    A few more photos.
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  16. #16
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    Man,that's as old as me,was it a cup racer or a every day runabout?? If you like wooden boats,like I do get yourself a coppy of "Classic American Runabouts"wood boats 1915-1965 by Philip B Ballantyne Larry
    America home of the free, thanks to the brave [/url]

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by blizard05 View Post
    Man,that's as old as me,was it a cup racer or a every day runabout?? If you like wooden boats,like I do get yourself a coppy of "Classic American Runabouts"wood boats 1915-1965 by Philip B Ballantyne Larry
    I love Classic Wood Boats, I'm pretty sure it was patterned after a cup racer it is a step hydroplane, Thats a great book another is "Cutwater" by Robert Bruce Duncan, tons of great pictures

  18. #18
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    It was also Numbered F-83 "Miss Effingham" of Seattle

  19. #19
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    Great find. Would be nice to have a vintage racing class 1920+1930 limited power, cup racers However, some of you would doze off during the race.
    Last edited by blizard05; 03-04-2010 at 06:07 PM.
    America home of the free, thanks to the brave [/url]

  20. #20
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    Default Just about ready to start.

    As I said I had a project that had to be finished so that did not allow me the trime to get going on the Crackerbox. Here is the finished 1937 Hacker Triple Cockpit "Miss Effingham", It is powered by 2 Astroflight 40 /7 turn motors and 2 Victory ESC's The motors run in to a gear box turning a single drive shaft, also 4x 12 cell 6000 mah NiMh packs 2 12 cell packs in parellel to each esc. I tested her yesterday and it is much faster then I would have thought and is very stable. I am pleased with the finished product. Here are some pics of her ready for delivery.
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    Last edited by Hydromaniac; 03-12-2010 at 10:43 AM.

  21. #21
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    Default 1937 Hackercraft

    A few more pics!
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    Default 1937 Hackercraft Continued.

    The last pics.
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  23. #23
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    That is absolutely stunning! I wish I had to patience and the bank account to build like that!
    Mini Cat Racing USA
    www.minicatracingusa.com

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    Default Getting Back On track.

    I had a couple of projects that needed to get some progress done, One has been finished and the second is at the slow drying phase. So I am going to begin on the "Soaring Stuff" Cracker box. Taylor has done a very nice job getting everything correct on the parts. The first thing I did was to check the parts inventory supplied and read all the directions. We have everything needed to build a P-limited crackerbox hull. The first thing is to get the building board ready to build the hull. Taylor has supplied the anchor blocks in the kit that will need to be placed on a very straight, flat building board. The instuctions recomend a shelf type board that you can get at most home improvement centers, you can also use any straight flat 1X that is the correct width as well. You will also need your building supplies. Here is a list of what I prefer to use.

    X-acto knife and a supply of #11 blades
    X-Acto type Razor Saw
    Sanding Blocks long and hand size
    Sandpaper. 80, 120, 180 grits. (Finer grits are used in the paint process)
    Dremmel tool with sanding and shaping heads
    30 minute epoxy
    Thin CA
    Medium CA
    Small Block or hand plane
    Straight edge or T-square
    90 Degree square
    Clamps
    Masking Tape
    I think that will get us the hull built. Time to get the building jig ready and start the Cracker box. Here is a photo of the kit inventory. I also received a very nice set of stand end plates that I think are optional, you can ask Taylor when you order your kit.
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    Last edited by Hydromaniac; 03-14-2010 at 10:55 AM.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by sailr View Post
    That is absolutely stunning! I wish I had to patience and the bank account to build like that!
    Thank You, the owner was very pleased with it when he picked it up. He even made a special trip just to pick up the boat.

  26. #26
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    This boat is on my (must have) list. I have built 1/10- 1/8 and 1/4 scale C boxes. Could you post a hardware list? thanks Larry
    America home of the free, thanks to the brave [/url]

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by blizard05 View Post
    This boat is on my (must have) list. I have built 1/10- 1/8 and 1/4 scale C boxes. Could you post a hardware list? thanks Larry
    I sure will as soon as I get the parts here.

  28. #28
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    Default Getting Started

    Time to get to building our Crackerbox. The first thing you want to do is read the directions and get fimiliar with the parts placement. Next is to locate all of the parts make sure they are presant, Now I sanded the parts to remove any left behind fuzz from the cutting process of the parts, I then test fit the correct pieces into thier matching notches clean and sand as needed to get a good fit that is snug but not overly tight, as you don't want to have to force the parts in place and risk breaking something. Now I have finished the building board jig as per the instuctions, I had a very nice 1 X 10 on hand that I had milled at a local cabinet shop, it is very straight and perfectly flat so this is what I used for the jig. I glued the blocks in place and left it to dry over night. Now I'll do a dry run of the basic hull parts, I started at the transome following the directions I clamped all of the pieces together on the jig, small spring clamps and masking tape are perfect to do this. Check for fit and alignment now before gluing if you need to adjust things it is easier at this time rather then after gluing the parts in place. I found the support notch on the center keel did not quite come back far enough to meet at bulkhead #3 so I added 3/16 inch shims to the jig blocks to move bulkheads 1 & 2 back towards the transome this allowed everything to line up almost perfectly. Everythig has been located, fit and alignment is good. Here are some photos.
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    Default A little progress.

    Once every thing was clamped and fit together I decided to do a few things that I think will be a plus once finished. I removed a little of the wood from the bulkhead centers. This is not at all needed to complete the crackerbox. I did this to shave a little weight and to make COG adjustments and electronic placement easier. I reclamped the parts to the jig and began building the forward keel spine support. I aligned one of the doublers to the center section of the support marked it then glued and clamped it together. Once dry, I added the second doubler to the opposite side of the center section allowing it to dry. When dry, I sanded the assembly to the correct shape and also so sanded the bottom edges to the same angle as the bulkhead bottoms. Checking fit and shape with the bulkhead placement. I sanded the nose area of the spine to a point shape.
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  30. #30
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    Default Building

    Once I had the keel brace in place I could see a possible problem I may encounter with the motor mount I plan to use, The rear keel spine may sit to high for my mount as It could cause me a problem. The supplied rear spine support will work fine but I want to do some testing with an outrunner and the mount needs to sit very low in the hull I could have removed some of the support later but thought best to plan ahead a bit. I decided to make a laydown rear keel support section from 2 pieces of 1/8 X 1/2 spruce. this means that bulkheads 4,5 and the transome needed to be modifyed to accept the change, I filled the precut spine notches of those parts with 1/8 spruce and reenforce them with 1/8 plywood glued to the bulkheads between the center 2 batton notches, I then cut new slots to accept the new spruce supports. I then trimmed the forward keel spine leaving it 1/2 inch to the rear of bulkhead #3.
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