traxxas villan build

[j.m.]

Or just packing tape works. The surface quality won't be too much of an issue I'd think, you just don't want to have to sand TOO much of the ABS away.

This boat is turning out great...

Jon

[20psinow]

thanks j.m. for now im gonna get this wood epoxyd in there and start on the fiberglass, still have to find a place to do that its way to cold to do it where im at.. and once thats done fill in the holes and pant the entire boat, then get the hardwaer... and when the time comes would it be smart to look in to the sv27 (stinger drive) and rudder set up? i know it may be a little more but would it be worth it?

[j.m.]

Sure, if you want a flex cable setup do it! It will cost a little more though.

[20psinow]

ahh well when the time comes i find out what im doing for sure still leaning on the 4mm shaft..

[j.m.]

You can do that to start with and then upgrade later?

It's only $10...

If it doesn't work out you could always make something else out of it.

[20psinow]

well sleeping on the sv27 hardwear i think that would be the way to go! i gonna just do it right the first time and not kick my self in the ass latter over it.. i got some new tools its a nedle file set thats for the prop i just need a blancer now to start that deal but thats latter on when i get that going.. this weekend im hopeing to get the glass work done at a buddys house. he has layed glass befor and is going to give me tips and let me use his house to finish the work and some time this week i should have the wood epoxyed in and the holes filled in on the back...

[j.m.]

Same needle file set I have!! $10 @ HD!!

The handle's useless, find something else to do with it. :P

That's good that you'll have somebody to show you how to fiberglass the first time around, always helps.

Don't forget to soak up the excess with paper towels, the extra epoxy adds no strength, just weight. And why not do the transom ply while your at it?

Try and make paper templates of the fiberglass first, then cut your glass out with those long before you mix epoxy. Make sure they fit and you are satisfied with everything before any glue gets hard.

About the hardware, the AQ strut doesn't come with a bushing. That's another $10, so you might as well go with the top notch hardware.
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...d=ros-21-strut

And something inexpensive for the rudder:
http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...rod=dh-prb3756

Jon

[20psinow]

should i do the glass the ply? i thought about it but just thought that would add weight... i know about the excess with paper towels trick read that on a link from google.. and should i do the side of the boat to? i know that is probly over the top but its in my head to do it.. i was going to do the transom just to cover up the ply and give a nice clean look in side of the boat but never thought to ask about it..

[j.m.]

Fiberglassing the transom won't add a noticeable amount of weight, you'll want to seal the wood with epoxy anyways.

You can do the sides, sure. I just don't know how much room you'll have to work with.

Do a large rectangle(s) for the bottom of the hull, and a separate piece(s) for the transom. What weight glass did you get again?

[20psinow]

the glass is bondo home solutions and ment for anyhing.. just a package of it and it 9 sq. ft and dont know how thick it is..

[j.m.]

I think I remembered reading somewhere that was about 10 oz. a sq yd, so it's just the right weight for one layer of cloth to be enough.

Your not going to get the cloth to bend up the sides of the hull and stay in place with the epoxy, that stuff is going to be pretty stiff.

[20psinow]

haha well it looks thin and light but i know all to well thats not the truth with something if i dont need to do the sides i wont but i will do the transom the best i can.. so i should just do one layer and not 2? if thats the case im kinda happy less work and i hope it cures faster.. im going to be doing this at a buddys house when its 30* and a set of heat lamps, not to close just around to heat the air around the boat to help it cure

[20psinow]

well i have not had much time to work on her but this weekend i will get the wood work in the transom... i picked up some oke for work today and had a chunk left over and took it home and when to the cheap tool store and pick some c-clamps up so i can hold the wood in place wile the epoxy cures and will snap some pics as i go along.. i thinking the oke will make a great base for the motor mount in the v hull going to try and make it as low as i can so the cable dose not bind... i have a few qustions on were i should mount the motor and CG in the boat.. should i set it up just like you would the SV27? i going to order the SV27 hardware next weekend or the motor and mount and ESC.. what ever i feel like getting my self for my B-day gift to my self and use the other money i get for what i did not buy.. and i also think im not going to glass the transom im just going to seal it and glass the bottom of the boat... if i could find out where to place the oke i could glass that in to the bottom of the boat....

[20psinow]

well i epoxyed the first pice in and clamped it down we will see how this turns out and then ill start the bottom one..

[bwells]

Jon: It appears that 20psinow is going with a flex shaft but I like your idea of the straight shaft and flex coupler. You mentioned extending it 3 inches from the transom and to keep the base of the rudder at the height of the drive dog. Is the rudder placed inline with the prop in order to use the prop wash as the means for steering? If the rudder is offset, say at the strake, do to the deep vee, it would put what looks to be about an inch in the water. Is this sufficient? Thanks.

[20psinow]

you know the stright shaft is still on my mind.. i have not got anything yet for hardwear but $10 for a shaft and $70ish for the sv27 hardwear, the straight shaft is sounding good.. still finding the little time i have to work on her right now to day started to epoxy the lower transom wood in so ill have one on top and bottom then the next 2 are going over the top of them.. its still up in the air but i really like the sv27 hardwear but the shaft is so cheap and ez...

[j.m.]

You want the leading edge of the rudder even with the drive dog.

The bottom should stick down below the prop, basically as much as possible while keeping the hinge and control line above the water.

The shaft sticking out the back will function just like a strut, but would not be adjustable. This design is found on many European mono hulls.




These are basically how the villain would be set up with the straight shaft.

Jon

[20psinow]

well j.m. where do you mount the motor?

[j.m.]

Forward, basically as far as it can go.

[20psinow]

sweet now that i know that i can kinda look at how im gonna lay things out.. well this is the progress today still need to let the epoxy cure befor i do anyting with it but the next pice will be on tonight i hope..

[bwells]

Thanks for the reply Jon. I was way off on the rudder location. For some reason I was thinking bottom of rudder, not front, Thanks

[20psinow]

wile im thinking about it if i do the set up on page 1 with that motor and esc will this battery work for me? parkzone (PKZ1031 11.1V 1800mAh 3 cell li-po with a continuous discharge up to 15C (27amps)) i found it in my box of crap from a plane that i crashed last year and i think if i get some deans plug i could use this battery? i dont think it well provide a long run time but i was going to run 14.4 ni-cd (2-6 cell packs 2000mAh)...

[j.m.]

You can use that battery if you want to light your boat on fire.....

You can run your nicd packs in parallel, speed will be lacking but you won't be stressing the batteries.


The ply doublers are looking good! You will want to fill in the corners though.

Jon

[20psinow]

that my plan, wanted to fill the corners in to make it look good and the gap in the center of them.. going to start on the other bottom one tonight/right now and then to firday on the top and sand it down and clean them up then this weekend going to glass it!! and my parts are going to start coming in... going with the 4mm shaft and baby flex cable..

[20psinow]

You can use that battery if you want to light your boat on fire.....

You can run your nicd packs in parallel, speed will be lacking but you won't be stressing the batteries.


The ply doublers are looking good! You will want to fill in the corners though.

Jon

if i run them in parallel i it will only be good for 7.2v right? i ran the stock motor that i had from the boat and put 24v to it and wow... she lasted 3min or so unloaded then let some smoke out then loaded it with a pice of rubber and maybe 30sec latter let more smoke out and and froze up lots of fun at work today..

[20psinow]

so i got home from work and mixed up some epoxy and did the top part of the transom then filled in some of the gap on the bottom wood still need to go over when the epoxy drys and do some sanding and epoxy the gap between the top and bottom wood.. but more pics for ya guys..

[Make-a-Wake]

Hey Buddy............been talkin' to you on youtube......Mine is an old Villain IV but its basically the same..........I went with a Feigao 1445kv XL, direct drive, 4mm shaft, graupner flexshaft 5mm to 4mm, turnigy 120a esc and 2 x 3s lipo...6s. Got a big rudder sitting behind the prop..............works very well. Here are a few pics. I'll be running my X442 tomorrow morning. BTW i went to a long cooling jacket................

[20psinow]

really you have the same setup that i will have.. i like the servo mount you made, i need to find something that will work on mine. thinken about maken a radio box that im able to move back and forth to adjust CG.. but time will tell i like the set up you have, you have a lot more money in the project then i will have but maybe some day i will move up and try to brake the 50's lol dreaming now....

[Make-a-Wake]

What motor are you goin' with? I'm hittin' about 35 or so with the x440..........and it runs super cool.........motor in the 90's after a hard 5 minute run. I keep it on the conservative side, i'm not racing...........im just a "sport boater". Low kv and high voltage keeps the amp draw and the temps down. It hasnt cost that much......motor was $69 and ESC $50, stock servo, made my own shaft......stock tube.

Here's the second vid you may not have seen.............bow up more, riding much better

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjZBz...eature=related

[20psinow]

page 1 has the setup that j.m. gave me for a parts list to do a build and keep it cheap. this would also be a (sports boater) setup but im not running lipo's i have 4 7.2v nicd batterys that i want to use up but need to find out if any of the cells are dead. and im going to be useing a 40x53 2blade prop.. i dont know how that compares to the x440..