Hi guys... Just barely getting started, but I have the cowl painted now... The deck still needs to be taped off and painted.... Red down the center between the sponsons, and green on the sponson decks... More to come...
Hi guys... Just barely getting started, but I have the cowl painted now... The deck still needs to be taped off and painted.... Red down the center between the sponsons, and green on the sponson decks... More to come...
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Very nice Darin, looks way better than standard, you have got the artists touch mate.
Hey Guys... I have the paint on the deck drying as I type... I'm going to shoot a couple of coats of clear over it tonight, afterwhich I'll see about getting some updated pics posted... It looks great!
Say, can someone who has done this conversion using an Octua mount and REK lower please tell me what the mounting dimensions for the mount were?? The instructions cover the OS MAX .21 mounting and the K&B Lower with Dubro mount mounting, but I am going to be using an Octura 3.5 mount with the REK lower, and would like to get the inserts installed while I'm still waiting for the mount to arrive...
Thanks,
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Here are some shots of the completed paint job... I may try to get a couple of decals for it, but for now, this is it...
I'll let this sit for a couple of days, then start mounting the motor and hardware...
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Looks Great!!
I like how that came out, that looks great!
Nice paint job. I have the REK lower with a Dubro mount. I could get you the hole locations I you think it would help.
Wow that boat looks just a good as you delta
S.S.R.C-Southern Style Radio Control
Hi Guys,
Just thought I'd show you the cooling plates I just fabbed for my SV27 ESC for this project... I needed something much thinner than the factory ones, and I think these will work nicely...
The factory casing is just black anodized aluminum extrusion with the ESC inside and potted on either end, so I cleaned up the top and bottom, applied a little heat transfer compound (like you'd use on a CPU heat sink or similiar) and then used some high-temp tape I have (this happens to be "Boeing" quality for use in composite layup autoclaving...) to secure it all together... I think this may actually work better than the stock setup... It definately contacts the surface better... Not any heavier either...
Oh, and a BIG THANK YOU to Andym for sending me another factory radio box... I got it today and it's going to work very well I think...
More to come...
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Darin you are the rattle can KING. I am going to hunt down some of that expensive mask you use and have a go @ the jolly.
Automotive paint centers carry the best tape.
Here are a couple more pics, showing the second stock radio box, modified and attached to the unmodified stock box... Batteries should go in the front, rx and steering servo in the back... ESC will sit on the rear tray where the fuel tank was meant to go... We'll have to see if I can work out the 9.5" or so CG with this arrangement...
More to come...
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Where are you going to put the batteries are you going to stack them?
S.S.R.C-Southern Style Radio Control
I'm wondering if your weight might be too far forward. The TS2 doesn't like to stray too far from that 9 1/2in balance point. Thats a good idea for the box. I extended my box so I could lay both my batteries on the bottom. The boat handles much better that way.
Only one way to find out! Your's looks really nice... I figured I'd try it this way, at least up to the point where I get the motor mounted and can actually check the CG... If it's off, I'll revise my plans accordingly... I haven't ruled out cutting out the deck and just building a full-length box... but I wanted to see if I could make it work with this less intrusive method first... You may be right... It may be too far forward...
But then... With the nitro ones, the guys are having to add 5-6oz of weight to the nose to get them right... so we'll see... I should know shortly... Just have to get the motor mounted...
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Well... I have Steven sending me an Octura 3.5 mount, and Brian ordered me a Dubro 3.5 mount with his order...
Awh the Heck with it... SCREW the extra weight... I just made THIS purchase and it's going to LOOK COOL.... BLING!!
Might not be quite as fast, but it will look DAMN good when Brian and the others go blowing past me!!
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
See now thats what I'm talkin bout. Anodized shiney stuff. Nothing I like more on a boat. Nice Peice of hardware man!!!!! Ya know if I didn't know any better I'd say it was a jack plate. Kinda look like one.
Well... I get a little further each day... Just have to install the steering rods and add the cooling lines to the lower unit, and I should be just about ready...
The Hi-Jack 3.5 is WAY too cool, in my opinion!!
I also have one of these new motor mount blocks coming from Ray Fuller... There is a motor cover being developed that isn't done yet, but that will attach to this block and give it more of a "scale" look.... That ought to wrap things up nicely...
More to come...
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
Darin it looks bloody great mate, cant wait to see how it goes. I am having trouble with mine wanting to go upside downs in fast tight turns because the xl feigao motor sits to high and is to heavy. If the sv motor works good might try the ammo motor. As is much smaller in size and wieght to the xl.
Andy,
I also lowered the motor down on the lower leg as FAR as I could... I was able to get it about 3/16" or so lower than it was originally when I bought the unit... Just took a lot of measureing and test fitting to get it just right... Measure twice, cut once, and all that...
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
stupid question....are you guys running these motors on the legs open like that ?
Island Boys Fast Electric Hawaii
Yep. I run the 8xl on the TP2 and a 10l on a supreme F1 open, just oil bearings regulary and the flex shaft every run. Have turned both boats over many times and motors still run great. The supreme is that over powered a back flip is only a eager trigger finger away.
OK... Done!
All ready to hit the water... 5lbs 10.4oz RTR w/ 4S1P 4350mah 20C cells...
I'll let you know how it does after this coming weekend...
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."
nice........
Island Boys Fast Electric Hawaii
Looks good Darin. I like the motor mount and Fullers new mount with the steering ears. Once Ray gets the motor covers done the high performance electric outboard will be complete.
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