Watercooling a Turnigy Monster 2000

[CornelP]

I started playing around with the ESC tonight, trying to find a good solution to water cool without disassembling...
Half an hour later, with a bit of brass sheet and tube, I came up with this idea.
The brass sheets will actually be covered with epoxy (top and both ends). I am waiting for a couple of special epoxies, but being hazardous materials, delivery is 30-60 days
I have the option to connect the two sides in series or parallel: which one would you recommend? Parallel has the advantage to ensure no air is trapped.
The whole thing will also have a 50x50mm fan on top and the bottom plate will get replaced by a brass plate with a tube spiral soldered on it (a bit too much, I think).
Waiting for ideas...

BTW, this will probably get connected to a KD 45 (also with custom watercooling)... bought before reading Steve's reviews...

[m4a1usr]

Interesting idea of running the water in direct contact with the alum sinks already in place. About as effective as its gonna get. You are creative.

John

[FloatDaBoat]

Direct water contact with the heat sinks is an excellent idea; you might end up with a leakage problem, though. Using rectangular tubing in place of the strips might be a safer route . . . .

[Steven Vaccaro]

I started playing around with the ESC tonight, trying to find a good solution to water cool without disassembling...
Half an hour later, with a bit of brass sheet and tube, I came up with this idea.
The brass sheets will actually be covered with epoxy (top and both ends). I am waiting for a couple of special epoxies, but being hazardous materials, delivery is 30-60 days
I have the option to connect the two sides in series or parallel: which one would you recommend? Parallel has the advantage to ensure no air is trapped.
The whole thing will also have a 50x50mm fan on top and the bottom plate will get replaced by a brass plate with a tube spiral soldered on it (a bit too much, I think).
Waiting for ideas...

BTW, this will probably get connected to a KD 45 (also with custom watercooling)... bought before reading Steve's reviews...

Good job. The kb motor will be fine. Just keep it cool. Remember when you temp the motor, to temp the rear rotor shaft sticking out the back. I find its the hottest place.

[CornelP]

One of the glues I am waiting for is a structural adhesive for aluminum... they use it to patch up motor blocks. This will be used to glue the strips to the heat sink. I am also looking for square 6mm tube locally, which, combined with a thermally dissipative epoxi (like the one pointed out by Sailr) could give safer comparable results.

A new and better solution would be Peltier elements. I wonder why nobody thought about that... look at the prices, voltage, current and remember that these can cool up to 20 dgrC BELOW ambient...
http://www.sciencestore.co.uk/acatal..._Elements.html
Will order some tomorrow for testing...

[FloatDaBoat]

I did some quick research on Peltier Elements, as I had no clue as to what they were. Might not be an efficient/practical approach, & could get quite complicated. Here’s the link . . . .
The Heatsink Guide - Peltier cooler information
Here, you find information about peltier elements, peltier coolers, ... Since peltier elements are active heat pumps, they can be used to cool components ...
www.heatsink-guide.com/peltier.htm - Similar

[m4a1usr]

A new and better solution would be Peltier elements. I wonder why nobody thought about that... look at the prices, voltage, current and remember that these can cool up to 20 dgrC BELOW ambient...
http://www.sciencestore.co.uk/acatal..._Elements.html
Will order some tomorrow for testing...

Dont bother unless you want to satisfy your curiousity. They typicly consume too much power to be effective. And if your thoughts were of stacking a few to increase the heat removal capacity you would end up with weight. I have a box of some if anyone wants to play with the idea. I abondoned the idea 2 or 3 years ago when I was a sperament'n fool. Much easier to use water or a fan. I have had the best luck using just a fan but I still have a few speedos cooled with custom water plates I built long ago. But to each his own.

John

[RandyatBBY]

I started playing around with the ESC tonight, trying to find a good solution to water cool without disassembling...
Half an hour later, with a bit of brass sheet and tube, I came up with this idea.
The brass sheets will actually be covered with epoxy (top and both ends). I am waiting for a couple of special epoxies, but being hazardous materials, delivery is 30-60 days
I have the option to connect the two sides in series or parallel: which one would you recommend? Parallel has the advantage to ensure no air is trapped.
The whole thing will also have a 50x50mm fan on top and the bottom plate will get replaced by a brass plate with a tube spiral soldered on it (a bit too much, I think).
Waiting for ideas...

BTW, this will probably get connected to a KD 45 (also with custom watercooling)... bought before reading Steve's reviews...

I did the same thing only I used 1100 degree brazing solder and JB weld to glue to the heat sinks.

[Himalaya]

Great job CorneIP, this is the same ESC i am planning to use in my 1.4m Deep-V electric conversion. You lit up a light in the dark. Thanks.

Like m4a1usr pointed, Peltier is known for very low cooling efficiency, generally consumes more power than the heat it "moves" from one side to the other.

[CornelP]

Finally done... to test it, I just need to get the hull, motor, batteries, driveshaft, prop, rudder..... (actually waiting for an intruder S with hardware)
Looks "factory" made enough for me.

[Make-a-Wake]

Cornelp...........what a neat idea...........great job! That should run super cool. Modding and creating on ones own is the best!