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Thread: RIO EP or UL-1?

  1. #31
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    [QUOTE=erevo09;155003]thanks for the pics, they look cool! what exactly did you get from home depot to make that thing to the boat??

    to be honestly with it, i was gonna sell the RIO EP i bought since i have not opened it but it seems that i would need a rescue boat in case my boat stalls or flips (more likely now since i am getting sv27 or ul-1 - fast)

    yeah swapping the radio system is definitely a good idea, 2.4 with no antenna is the way to go!!![/QUOTE]

    On SV the just place a foam square under the cowl to cover up the existing hole where the antenna goes through and then place a small piece of hatch tape on the top of the cowl to cover the hole (wish I had a picture of the 2.4 installed but I dont). That's all I did and it works great no leaks even when upside, which by the way I drive happens a lot lol

    My SV is setup a lot better since those videos and I don't have the flipping issue as much.
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Capt. Crash View Post
    Very cleaver on the Rio use and the lights...I use the same type of rescue device on the tug to catch fast boats, but have a special floating line to snag sailboat keels and another line to snag the racing buoys. I also added a servo to allow me to drag and drop the buoys.

    There are various videos of the tug in action here:

    You may need to turn off the HD if it runns slow or choppy on your computer. The one I pointed to had a rescue of a crackerbox boat.

    Crash
    thanks for the vids and now i have some ideas of how to make it!

    did you use the same material as Diesel6401?

    by the way, how does your UL-1 run? i know that you only got it recently.
    Last edited by erevo09; 01-28-2010 at 06:53 PM.

  3. #33
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    [QUOTE=Diesel6401;155017]
    Quote Originally Posted by erevo09 View Post
    thanks for the pics, they look cool! what exactly did you get from home depot to make that thing to the boat??

    to be honestly with it, i was gonna sell the RIO EP i bought since i have not opened it but it seems that i would need a rescue boat in case my boat stalls or flips (more likely now since i am getting sv27 or ul-1 - fast)

    yeah swapping the radio system is definitely a good idea, 2.4 with no antenna is the way to go!!![/QUOTE]

    On SV the just place a foam square under the cowl to cover up the existing hole where the antenna goes through and then place a small piece of hatch tape on the top of the cowl to cover the hole (wish I had a picture of the 2.4 installed but I dont). That's all I did and it works great no leaks even when upside, which by the way I drive happens a lot lol

    My SV is setup a lot better since those videos and I don't have the flipping issue as much.
    thanks for the tips as i am VERY new to boats!!!

    i have traxxas 2.4 radio system, i wonder if the traxxas rx will work with it?

    i guess the first thing i should upgrade is the props right like it says on the website?

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by erevo09 View Post
    thanks for the vids and now i have some ideas of how to make it!

    did you use the same material as Diesel6841?

    by the way, how does your UL-1 run? i know that you only got it recently.
    Crash has the latest and greatest, i'm eager to hear results from him has well. I got mine for xmas, wife hooked me up. Only thing I added was a paint job, extra cap and a x440/3 prop and it runs good if conditions are right.
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  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diesel6401 View Post
    Crash has the latest and greatest, i'm eager to hear results from him has well. I got mine for xmas, wife hooked me up. Only thing I added was a paint job, extra cap and a x440/3 prop and it runs good if conditions are right.
    i like those monster decals!!!

    does it really perform badly when the water is choppy??... all the videos i have seen for far have been pretty good.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by erevo09 View Post
    i like those monster decals!!!

    does it really perform badly when the water is choppy??... all the videos i have seen for far have been pretty good.
    In my opinion it does, if its wavey or more than a nice ripple I take the SV out. Its fun wave jumping the SV. I took the Ul out last week and had to bring it in after a 1 min run due to water conditions. Then I pulled the SV out and had some serious fun: In 4 of the videos on my youtube was the type of water conditions the Ul didn't like. The ones posted like 2 weeks ago or so, cant remember, not the best vid but will show you what the water was like. If you are going to run in similar water get the SV. This is an old pic, antenna removed and different tubing in the back plus a whole lot of war wounds in the paint now a days.
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  7. #37
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    [QUOTE=erevo09;155061][QUOTE=Diesel6401;155017]

    thanks for the tips as i am VERY new to boats!!!

    i have traxxas 2.4 radio system, i wonder if the traxxas rx will work with it?

    i guess the first thing i should upgrade is the props right like it says on the website?[/QUOTE]

    I started with th CF props, their not the overall best props in the world but they are for sure the best bang for your buck and way better than the stock prop. I have a CF40, CF42, CF45(my fav). You are going to have to put some hours into your SV to get it running good. You can find all the information for proper set up and questions on this site.

    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...t=Carbon+Props
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  8. #38
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    [QUOTE=Diesel6401;155117][QUOTE=erevo09;155061]
    Quote Originally Posted by Diesel6401 View Post

    thanks for the tips as i am VERY new to boats!!!

    i have traxxas 2.4 radio system, i wonder if the traxxas rx will work with it?

    i guess the first thing i should upgrade is the props right like it says on the website?[/QUOTE]

    I started with th CF props, their not the overall best props in the world but they are for sure the best bang for your buck and way better than the stock prop. I have a CF40, CF42, CF45(my fav). You are going to have to put some hours into your SV to get it running good. You can find all the information for proper set up and questions on this site.

    http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...t=Carbon+Props
    thanks for the info, that should be very useful once i get my hands on the boat.

    how about the prop from the aquacraft's site?

    AQUB9720


  9. #39
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    [QUOTE=erevo09;155118][QUOTE=Diesel6401;155117]
    Quote Originally Posted by erevo09 View Post

    thanks for the info, that should be very useful once i get my hands on the boat.

    how about the prop from the aquacraft's site?

    AQUB9720

    Good prop, make sure you get it sharpened & balanced. You can't just buy that prop mount it and think its going to work. I don't s&b myself I buy them already S&B'd or have someone else do it for me. Lot of hours and skill in that.
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  10. #40
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    Being new to the hobby myself I have found these 3 websites my best friend.

    1) OSE which your on
    2) www.kintecracing.com
    3) www.hobbycity.com
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  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by erevo09 View Post
    thanks for the vids and now i have some ideas of how to make it!

    did you use the same material as Diesel6401?

    by the way, how does your UL-1 run? i know that you only got it recently.
    Yes I also use pvc pipe, but I cut swimming pool noodle to go over it...fits perfect.

    My new UL-1 was bought for all the hardware and electrics for a vintage hydro I'm building...I sold the hull. My first UL-1 is dialed in and runs perfect...no need to get another one. I got one of the very first ones and it still has all the original electrics. There are a number of videos here and at my Vimeo site and there is also a great thread in the FE forum at rcgroups dedicated to the UL-1...lots of pics and videos too.

    The conditions I run in are mostly pretty good, but the pond has a stone wall that the wake waves bounce off and add to the chop. I have gotten my boat airborne many times, but it always settles back on the water and continues on. The only time it has ever flipped was when it hit a buoy or when I was testing a new turn fin that didn't pan out. I have a lot of miles on it.

    If you are running in a lake with big waves/wakes caused by full sized boats....then you will get airborne coming off them...but that is with any fast boat.

    My only complaint about the UL-1 is that it runs too good...I can drop the hammer and never let up...until I get airborne or need to bring her in. But that is great for a newbie driver.

    Crash

  12. #42
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    I'll have to add my vote for the UL-1. What an adrenaline rush to drive for a noob like me. As previously stated, it will get airborne in choppy water, but you will learn when and when not to head out.

    I too use a tug for a rescue boat (idea taken from Crash) and it works very well, but I'm sure the Rio would work well also.

    My favorite prop for the UL-1 is the L38x63 (50+mph). I have also had good luck with the L42x66 (52+mph), but watch the temps...

    Good luck and have fun which ever one you choose.

    Bob

  13. #43
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    where is the cheapest place i can get a SV-27 or UL-1? whats the lowest price you have seen?

  14. #44
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    Tower has a $20 off promotion ends 1/31/2010. That would make the SV $229.99 and UL $309.97. They also have $10 year super saver membership. If you sign up you get free shipping.
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  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by erevo09 View Post
    thanks everyone for your inputs on my questions.

    i guess now i am choosing between SV27 and UL-1 now coz i just dont think RIO EP is fast enough for me unfortunately...

    i have one other question: can anyone recommend a good rescue boat since i dont have a good boat retrieval system...
    I use a Traxxas Blast for a rescue boat. I put an eyehook on the back, and I tie a fishing line to it and then drive the boat around the boat to be rescued then reel her in...

    Nice thing about the Blast- it has a steerable drive so it maneuvers really well under low speed.

    -Chief

  16. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by erevo09 View Post
    thanks everyone for your inputs on my questions.

    i guess now i am choosing between SV27 and UL-1 now coz i just dont think RIO EP is fast enough for me unfortunately...

    i have one other question: can anyone recommend a good rescue boat since i dont have a good boat retrieval system...
    My vote goes to the SV27.. you will have alot of fun with this boat and it will get some good speeds with a different prop and good lipo packs
    It's still one of my favorite boats to just go bash with..
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

  17. #47
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    with sv27, what do you guys do when using lipos with it?

  18. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by erevo09 View Post
    with sv27, what do you guys do when using lipos with it?
    Add a lipo shield., move the batteries forward. http://kintecracing.com/Supervee_27_upgrades.html
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  19. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diesel6401 View Post
    Add a lipo shield., move the batteries forward. http://kintecracing.com/Supervee_27_upgrades.html
    thanks man!

    do you use the exactly one with your SV27? did ur boat ever get stalled because it ran out of juice?

    i found this (for 2s lipos) on the internet, they should work right? but does that mean i gotta attach 2 of them since SV27 uses 2 batteries?

    also, how do you connect the white connector to the read/black wires?



    man, i am getting my boat today and i am leaning towards SV27 than UL-1...

  20. #50
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    I would lean towards the one i sent you the link for on kintec that already has the deans installed. That way you can take it out and put it in whenever you want. No you dont need two. If you get the one with the deans it has two connections. You plug the esc into the lipo shield and your batts into the esc. Give me a sec I'll take a pic. If you get the one you have listed you have to solder into the esc, not a big deal.
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  21. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diesel6401 View Post
    I would lean towards the one i sent you the link for on kintec that already has the deans installed. That way you can take it out and put it in whenever you want. No you dont need two. If you get the one with the deans it has two connections. You plug the esc into the lipo shield and your batts into the esc. Give me a sec I'll take a pic. If you get the one you have listed you have to solder into the esc, not a big deal.
    do you use the same one yourself?

    by the look of the pic, i have to say those battery wires look very THIN, is that gonna be a problem?...

  22. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by erevo09 View Post
    do you use the same one yourself?

    by the look of the pic, i have to say those battery wires look very THIN, is that gonna be a problem?...
    Nope, I haven't had a single problem yet. I honestly never run my batts until the warning kicks in. I time my runs.
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  23. #53
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    Pic 1 is the esc plugging into the lipo shield
    Pic 2 is the batt connections from the esc plugging into the lipo shield connections then you just connect your batt to the lipo shield
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diesel6401 View Post
    Nope, I haven't had a single problem yet. I honestly never run my batts until the warning kicks in. I time my runs.
    how much time do you think i can get out of TWO 2s 28C 6000mah lipos with sv27 with conservative throttle (stock setup)?

  25. #55
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    If your running "conservative" watch your temps. Running half throttle really heats things up and the esc doesn't really like it that much. In terms of run time: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/conversion.htm
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  26. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diesel6401 View Post
    If your running "conservative" watch your temps. Running half throttle really heats things up and the esc doesn't really like it that much. In terms of run time: http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/conversion.htm
    thanks, its a useful tool.

    28C 6000mah only gives me 12 mins of run time.... was expecting more than that...

    its just when i play rc, i do stop quite often, i dont normally run it for like 20 mins full throttle until the battery dies.


  27. #57
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    its longer than you think. After 5-7 minutes Im ready to bring it in...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diesel6401 View Post
    its longer than you think. After 5-7 minutes Im ready to bring it in...
    i dont quite understand for my rc trucks, a set of batteries can last me almost 1 hr if i play conservatively.

    boats are different?

  29. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by erevo09 View Post
    i dont quite understand for my rc trucks, a set of batteries can last me almost 1 hr if i play conservatively.

    boats are different?

    Boats are power hungry. The constant friction/drag caused by water takes it toll on batteries and esc. You have to have a good "C" rating on your batts. I use 25C & 30C and I'm about to buy some 40C's. Because of this run time suffers.
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  30. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by erevo09 View Post
    thanks, its a useful tool.

    28C 6000mah only gives me 12 mins of run time.... was expecting more than that...

    its just when i play rc, i do stop quite often, i dont normally run it for like 20 mins full throttle until the battery dies.

    Alot depends on what prop you use..
    bigger props pull more amps, possibly 70-75amps with a CF48 like I use
    .NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s

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