Excellent service but is that their heat shrink job? Looks odd, maybe just the angle the photo was taken at.
John
That is the typical Schulze shrink job - the shrink is a very high temp plastic, thick and tough. It is cut to provide some support to the caps, which are already well-cemented together with some hard white "caulking".
I sent my Schulze 18-149 and 40-160 back to the factory in September and got them back in about a month. Not bad, and plenty of communication in between.
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I sent them an 18.149 They shrink wrapped it an sent it back to me. Said it was fine. It's still useless. Maybe I'll use it to anchor a buoy or something.
I've had good service from Shultze also.
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Yeah I know. I mighta' if it was fixed. That was really frustrating to get it back with the exact same problem I sent it to them for. The money to buy the danged thing, the money to ship it for repair, the money for them to shrink wrap it and ship it back......then still not be able to use it. ugh I know my experience is rare but I haven't bought anything Schulze since. Still have a multi-hundred dollar paper weight too.
The nice thing about Schulze is that they don't usually go thermal nuclear when something goes wrong. You really have to do something evil to one to get it to turn into a crispy critter. Broke can be fixed. Most of the time. A charcoal briquette not so much.
Just don't leave a 40.160 plugged into cells and have the reciever powered when the trans is off. That's the best way to nuke a 40.160. Very messy.
Terry, you must have the constitution of an elephant when it comes to FE. I have never had an issue with Schultze repairs and have sent them quite a few in my time. Maybe you need to carry and anti-static matt or at least insulate your shoes.
Their detailing of repair work is obnoxious. The paper they print the reciept on is almost as thick as their shrink. I totally appreciate German quality but maybe they could lessen the cost a bit if they used standard sheet paper!!!!
haha They used to call me voltron at the office. The IT guys wanted me sit on some sort of lightning rod. I refused. Just last week a guy tried to sneak up on me and flick my ear. He got zapped. 2" of blue flame. Wonder how many volts that is.
Honestly, I think you could pound nails with a 40/160 and then race the next heat with it. I still remember Steve dead shorting one across the board and racing it the rest of the weekend.
No, that was the second one that weekend. I'm about 91% sure that was a timing issue. Oh, and that giant pitch work of art wheel from Haines. That thing has like 3.5" of pitch on it. On a UL motor. Sure was fast though.
The first one was in the Q sitting on the table. Slow burner. Didn't even know anything had happened until I pulled the tape. Looked like a grease stain where the speedo should have been.
I wish I would have taken the ESC out for a run with normal setup. It quit on me with just a little run. I GUESS I HAVE TO SEND IT BACK. It was suppost to be a 60 amp run.
Are you all saying never to leave a lipo plugged in with the transmitter off? I never heard that before. I know not to leave them plugged in to an esc because the esc is drawing current all the time and will drain the battery below a recovery point but never heard the other. Is this true of all ESC's or some sort of strange rule about Schulze's? I never leave a battery plugged in anyway but still good to know!
Mini Cat Racing USA
www.minicatracingusa.com
Hmmm maybe some chinese parts infiltrated their stock.
It will be interesting to see if 650 kv 67MM Prop and five inches of pitch on 10S2P Is too much according to schultz. I will be running the Monster 2000 this weekend. If the $189. ESC does it shultz is in trouble.
5" of Pitch? You are probably pulling over 150 amps. More like 300 at start up and we all know multi poll motors are harder on the electronics. I run a 3060 550kv motor with a 67mm prop in a mono. 60mph. I know it pulls 150 amps average.
I think you are gonna pop the other controller too!
HT
Outrunners typically use less Amps to produce the same power as inrunners. I fly big 50mm diameter outrunners on my airplanes swinging a 17x8 prop and only use a 55A esc on 6S! Never even gets warm. I wouldn't even think of an equivalent load on a 1515/1Y for example with anything less than a 180A ESC!
Mini Cat Racing USA
www.minicatracingusa.com
Outrunners are less efficient that in runners at THE SAME POWER LEVEL, gobs of data to prove that all over the web.
Well on friday I will go back to my tried and true method of testing. I will start with a small prop and go from there.
That is true providing that the two motors are made of the same quality components. You cannot take a Scorpian outrunner that has an eff. rating of approx. 87% and compare it to a Feigao/Pulso/Keda Chinese inrunner. It wouldnt be fair to the inrunner. At best they are something like 80% eff. and thats giving the motor some. Most of the data I have seen actualy puts them at 78%.
But if you take a high quality inrunner like a Neu, Lehner or Plett that uses the better compenents you end with as much as 92% eff. So it is true outrunners typicly are less eff. but only on an equal construction comparison. Take a look at the dyno data on the Neumotors home page. Look at the data on their 2215 inrunner and their 1900 series outrunners. Your going to find each one very, very close in eff. ratings.
John
There might also be an issue with the controller sensing the motor. I still think you get what you pay for within reason. None of my Schultzes ever puked an inrunner.
Time to have it fixed again, five years later it is. Any one have a way to get a hold of Schultz now?
Randy,
I will forward you an email to your gmail account about the specifics Matthias asks for these days.
Tyler
Tyler Garrard
NAMBA 639/IMPBA 20525
T-Hydro @ 142.94mph former WR
Tyler, would you mind sending that information my way also?
Thanks
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