Supervee27 ?

[m4a1usr]

I took my SV27 out for it's first run today . Everything went great there was no water in the hull . The motor temp was to high for my liking . So i think a better water jacket & water pick are the first upgrade i will make . I slide the lipo about a inch past the mount . But the boat seemed a little hoppy , unless thats just the way they run . Maybe i need to slide them a little farther foward . The water had a slight ripple & the air temp was about 58 - 65 degrees . I did have to adjust the rutter linkage just a little . All in all everything went great .

What prop are you running? Too hot a motor could mean alot of things but it might be the stinger and rudder are not set correctly. As far as adding a water pickup,..dont. You dont need anything hanging off the transom or some addition to your stock water pickup in the rudder. Open the water inlet hole in your rudder. Make it bigger. Do not add anything to increase drag. The water coming in from the water pickup is more then enough to do the job.

Check your hardware first. Make sure your stinger is set to neutral, then ensure the rudder is at the same angle as the transom face. Trim tabs are an extension of the bottom ride surface. So neutral too. Now adjust your center of balance so the hull rides evenly and doesnt dolphin or porpoise. The guys who designed the boat did a darn good job of making it a good entry level setup.

You have a very well thought out design and equipment so make it work right. I know guys who are getting very respectable speeds out of their boats and other then adjustments and improving production imperfections they have not done anything other then add a decent prop. Heck, look at the stock class in NAMBA. Those guys are screaming and no additions!

John

[rchippie]

What prop are you running? Too hot a motor could mean alot of things but it might be the stinger and rudder are not set correctly. As far as adding a water pickup,..dont. You dont need anything hanging off the transom or some addition to your stock water pickup in the rudder. Open the water inlet hole in your rudder. Make it bigger. Do not add anything to increase drag. The water coming in from the water pickup is more then enough to do the job.

Check your hardware first. Make sure your stinger is set to neutral, then ensure the rudder is at the same angle as the transom face. Trim tabs are an extension of the bottom ride surface. So neutral too. Now adjust your center of balance so the hull rides evenly and doesnt dolphin or porpoise. The guys who designed the boat did a darn good job of making it a good entry level setup.

You have a very well thought out design and equipment so make it work right. I know guys who are getting very respectable speeds out of their boats and other then adjustments and improving production imperfections they have not done anything other then add a decent prop. Heck, look at the stock class in NAMBA. Those guys are screaming and no additions!

John

John im still using the stock prop . I used a pencil on the bottom of the hull to check the stinger . The gap is the same from one end to the other . So the stinger is good . I just checked the trim tabs with a pencil on the bottom of the hull . The gap go wider as it got father away from the transom . So i adjusted them so the gap is the same all the way across. the rudder looks good .


I just enlarged the hole in the side of the rudder . I checked the brass fitting on top of the rudder . It was pluged with silicone or glue that was used to seal the fitting . I cleaned it out & blew air tru it . there is no restriction at all now . It flows real good . Also is the small hole on the bottom of the rudder supposed to be pluged or open ?. I broke the fitting that goes in the top of the rudder . Hopefully i can get it out with a easy out . If not i'll have to buy a new rudder .

[m4a1usr]

John im still using the stock prop . I used a pencil on the bottom of the hull to check the stinger . The gap is the same from one end to the other . So the stinger is good . I just checked the trim tabs with a pencil on the bottom of the hull . The gap go wider as it got father away from the transom . So i adjusted them so the gap is the same all the way across. the rudder looks good .


I just enlarged the hole in the side of the rudder . I checked the brass fitting on top of the rudder . It was pluged with silicone or glue that was used to seal the fitting . I cleaned it out & blew air tru it . there is no restriction at all now . It flows real good . Also is the small hole on the bottom of the rudder supposed to be pluged or open ?.

Ensure the hull is laying flat on a good smooth surface in the correct ride configuration. The hull has steps so dont worry about it running too wet if you have gotten the basic mechanics set right. The tip of the nose, from the top side of the hull, measured down to the table should be about 2 3/4". Thats the right way it should run. Not nose up on its tail. This is the reference that you need to make your adjustments from. Make sure your trim tabs are down even with the bottom of the hull. I have played/owned at least 5 SV27's and not one of them with the stock tabs had the trim tabs down low enough. I had to slot the holes to bring the tabs down enough. Like I said before. They should be set to neutral.

The hole in the rudder is too small IMO and should be drilled out a bit. It should be nice and open. This can be a task but its not beyond most. The stock opening is 062". I like to open them up to .089". Round the bottom of the rudder too. It should not be squared. A gentle radius is good. Make the entire face sharp. Not a knive edge but sharp.

Upgrade to the grim racer metal prop recomended in the manual but an X440/3 does well. You can go up to a modified Octura 646 using the stock motor/ESC combo providing your setup adjustments are done properly. Its been done by some of the guys who race.

Get rid of your stock radio. Too many guys have reported loss of control when the boat gets out of range. Scuff the bottom, helps the top end. A stock SV27 once having had the improvements done will run well into the mid/upper 40's. So its one of the better RTR setups money can buy (speed to dollar ratio).

Let me search for Darins setup thread harder. His and the others commentary is well worth the read.


John

[badag98]

Chippie,

Currently I am using both pick ups, the stock one (rudder) is for the ESC. The added pickup runs to the Motor mount then to the motor jacket. I ran it yesterday, keep in mind it was in the 40's outside and when i was done the motor and the ESC were both cool to the touch.

There is one more thing that i have not done that I am looking at and that is adding another exit port. Right now the lines come back together and exit the stock port. I am thinking about adding one that way both have there own exit and i can tell if one is not putting water out.

[rchippie]

Thank's for the repliys .

I got my rudder problem fixed . I drilled the intake opening a little bigger as mentioned . I also fixed the broken & pluged fitting problem on the rudder . I also slotted the trim tabs as mentioned . So i could get them perfectly flush with the botton of the hull . I also ordered my port side turn fin . It's raining here in largo FL. So i'll have to wait till tommorow to try the boat again .

I just put two layers of fiber glass on each side to strengthen the sides . I also ordered a new water jacket & adj trim tabs .

[m4a1usr]

I just put two layers of fiber glass on each side to strengthen the sides . I also ordered a new water jacket & adj trim tabs .

Good choices. Upgrade to 4mm bullets too if you can solder. The stock 3mm bullets just dont cut it.

John

[Brushless55]

For my SVs on the rudder pickup, I used a point file and opened up the hole a small amount and now my temps have not gotten over 105* on a hot summer day this past year using a CF48 prop and using the stock water jacket

[wizard122]

I agree both set ups look good. I'm thinking about running two water inlets myself The Ammo 2300 runs hotter than the stock motor. I run a Geko 201 gps in front of motor so I guess thats like running some lead in her about 4 oz. My friend just go a radar gun so I'm hoping to get some more speed with out the added weight.

[rchippie]

Good choices. Upgrade to 4mm bullets too if you can solder. The stock 3mm bullets just dont cut it.

John

After talking to jan via email today . He gave me a list of recomended upgrades in order of importance for a non racer . I went with #1 #3 & #5 & #6 . I had all ready done the #2 mod before talking with him. I will do the other mods when i get some extra cash . I work part time at my friends hobby shop . So i can get a lot of my stuff at cost . But some stuff i have to get at other places .

1. hatch seal tape (always tape the hatch down)
2. Velcro. take the batt locators out
3. water jacket
4. antenna mount
5. trim tab adjusters
6. port side fin (not used for racing)
7. thrust bearing and small spacer
8. servo mount

[Brushless55]

I run my SVs stock..
only mod for cooling was opening up the rudder hole with a point file, and using stock water jacket, my temps are very good.
and I use the stock trim tabs, no need for adjusters if the cog is set good

[rchippie]

well the water jacket covers more of the motor than than the stock one . More coverage equals more heat disapation. As for the adj trim tabs . All the SV's i have seen pics of had them . So i figured there must be a reason . Also is that a unlimited hydro in your avatar ?.

[Brushless55]

well the water jacket covers more of the motor than than the stock one . More coverage equals more heat disapation. As for the adj trim tabs . All the SV's i have seen pics of had them . So i figured there must be a reason .

It also depends on flow..
many run out and spend money on things they do not need thinking because its a hop up it is better..
I never see over 105-110* on my motor on a hot summer day. and in the cold my temps are in the 80s
as for the trims, if they are not set right they will cause drag and slow the boat and pull more amps

[rchippie]

It also depends on flow..
many run out and spend money on things they do not need thinking because its a hop up it is better..
I never see over 105-110* on my motor on a hot summer day. and in the cold my temps are in the 80s
as for the trims, if they are not set right they will cause drag and slow the boat and pull more amps

I agree with what your saying . What can i say i also like a little bling .

[Brushless55]

the bling is cool!

[rchippie]

My trim tabs & motor jacket showed today . I have a couple quick ?'s. When the motor jacket is in stalled with the four holes on top ( with the brand in using) . Can i assume i should use two holes that are diagonlly oppsoed to each other ?.



I would also like to know should i adj them to the stock location, were there is about a 1/8 gap across the whole tab when holding a straight edge on the bottom of the hull ?. Or should i adj them so the trailing edge is level with the bottom of th hull ?.

[Diesel6401]

My trim tabs & motor jacket showed today . I have a couple quick ?'s. When the motor jacket is in stalled with the four holes on top ( with the brand in using) . Can i assume i should use two holes that are diagonlly oppsoed to each other ?.



I would also like to know should i adj them to the stock location, were there is about a 1/8 gap across the whole tab when holding a straight edge on the bottom of the hull ?. Or should i adj them so the trailing edge is level with the bottom of th hull ?.

Trim tab should be completly level with the hull. You should be able to run a ruler or straight edge along the bottom and trim tabs would be flush with it. That's neutral position.

[Diesel6401]

My trim tabs & motor jacket showed today . I have a couple quick ?'s. When the motor jacket is in stalled with the four holes on top ( with the brand in using) . Can i assume i should use two holes that are diagonlly oppsoed to each other ?.



I would also like to know should i adj them to the stock location, were there is about a 1/8 gap across the whole tab when holding a straight edge on the bottom of the hull ?. Or should i adj them so the trailing edge is level with the bottom of th hull ?.

The Image shows it dia, but I run my inline not sure what or if their is a difference. All I kno is it works...lol

[rchippie]

I finally got to run my boat again today after installing my goodies i recived from jan .I installed a new water jacket & adj trim tabs. My motor came off at 105 after about a 10 min run or longer & that was with a partial kink in the water line inside the radio box. So it should be better next time with out the kink in the line . . I also picked up some aquacraft radio box tape to seal the canopy water tight . The was absolulty no water in the hull . My lipo's were 3.53 volts per cell after the run . I slide the lipo's farther foward & that helped ALOT with tthe hopping. It feels pretty stable to me . But im sure it can be made better with the proper tweaking .

[Brushless55]

Right on man!
Sounds like your getting things working good..
I place my batteries about 1 1/2" forward of the motor

[rchippie]

Im thinking about making a rescue boat for use with my SV 27 if needed . I have seen some made using a boogie board & other's using a boat & pushing device on the FR end . Im looking to go with a boogie board mooded to the FR of a RIO ep . I looked at walmart .com . I also looked at target & kmart .com as well . But i cant seem to find a really cheap boogie board . Does anyone know were you can get a cheap boogie board ?. I live in FL so one of the major stores would be nice . Thank's

I found this one . Is that the cheapest im probably going to find ?.

http://www.sportsauthority.com/produ...entPage=family

[Diesel6401]

Im thinking about making a rescue boat for use with my SV 27 if needed . I have seen some made using a boogie board & other's using a boat & pushing device on the FR end . Im looking to go with a boogie board mooded to the FR of a RIO ep . I looked at walmart .com . I also looked at target & kmart .com as well . But i cant seem to find a really cheap boogie board . Does anyone know were you can get a cheap boogie board ?. I live in FL so one of the major stores would be nice . Thank's

I found this one . Is that the cheapest im probably going to find ?.

http://www.sportsauthority.com/produ...entPage=family

http://www.amazon.com/Hang-Ten-24-In...774299&sr=8-41

[Diesel6401]

Im thinking about making a rescue boat for use with my SV 27 if needed . I have seen some made using a boogie board & other's using a boat & pushing device on the FR end . Im looking to go with a boogie board mooded to the FR of a RIO ep . I looked at walmart .com . I also looked at target & kmart .com as well . But i cant seem to find a really cheap boogie board . Does anyone know were you can get a cheap boogie board ?. I live in FL so one of the major stores would be nice . Thank's

I found this one . Is that the cheapest im probably going to find ?.

http://www.sportsauthority.com/produ...entPage=family

Did you figure how your going to mount the RIO to the board? The opening you have to cut into that board has to be fairly wide to rescue the SV

[rchippie]

http://www.amazon.com/Hang-Ten-24-In...774299&sr=8-41

I looked at your link . After you add shipping, it cost the same as the one i linked to eairler . There is a used sporting goods store close to my house . I may go check there tommorow, to see what they have to offer .

Plus the one i linked to is 37 inches . Thats plenty of board to work with .

The way im thinking i would mount the board to the boat is to turn the boat upside down . Then trace out the outline of the FR end of the boat about 12 inches back . Then cut it out, so the hull fits it to the notch that is cut out . Then cut cut a channel about 18 inches deep & 10 inches or so wide for the SV to slip into when the rescue boat pulls up from behind . Then just push it back to shore . What do you think ?.

[Diesel6401]

I looked at your link . After you add shipping, it cost the same as the one i linked to eairler . There is a used sporting goods store close to my house . I may go check there tommorow, to see what they have to offer .

Plus the one i linked to is 37 inches . Thats plenty of board to work with .

The way im thinking i would mount the board to the boat is to turn the boat upside down . Then trace out the outline of the FR end of the boat about 12 inches back . Then cut it out, so the hull fits it to the notch that is cut out . Then cut cut a channel about 18 inches deep & 10 inches or so wide for the SV to slip into when the rescue boat pulls up from behind . Then just push it back to shore . What do you think ?.

I youtubed it and it looks like it will work. I would like to see pics and maybe vids when your done. Here's the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fr6WlGP80qA

[wizard122]

Hi how are things going? I just converted everything over to 5.5mm bullet connectors today hope it was worth all the effort. Haven't tried it yet.
Don't you think that you could find a cheaper boat for this purpose?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXKGP2**&P=7
only $85

[Diesel6401]

Hi how are things going? I just converted everything over to 5.5mm bullet connectors today hope it was worth all the effort. Haven't tried it yet.
Don't you think that you could find a cheaper boat for this purpose?
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXKGP2**&P=7
only $85

Hey whats up wizard. Amazon has boats even cheaper than that http://www.amazon.com/RC-Police-Boat...777024&sr=8-13

But he wants that 2.4g radio that comes with the RIO that normally lists at $80 by itself so he getting a sweet looking aquacraft boat for like $50. Man I love that Tatic 2.4. I upgraded the servo on my RIO so my rescue boat has been running like a champ I hope the weather breaks soon, im dying to try on my new props. Let me kno of those new connectors work out.

[rchippie]

I youtubed it and it looks like it will work. I would like to see pics and maybe vids when your done. Here's the link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fr6WlGP80qA

I never saw that video before coming up with my idea . But that is exactly what i was thinking of .


Wizzard i looked at your link . That boat may work . But I think the rio with the bigger 550 motor would not have to work as hard.

[wizard122]

Cool me too like I said I switch every thing to 5.5mm alot of work hope it pays off last time I ran the boat the deans got a little hot so I think this will help.

[rchippie]

Cool me too like I said I switch every thing to 5.5mm alot of work hope it pays off last time I ran the boat the deans got a little hot so I think this will help.

Everything looks clean except your work bench .

[wizard122]

Thanks I'm an organized mess.