Stopping Water Leaks on the SV27

[10gauge]

Greetings Everyone! I am sure everyone encounters water leaks of some sort on their boats? The SV27 is truly a high performance boat with water leaks as its only real drawback.

As my first RC boat experience, I wanted to have a reliable FE. Not so! After much research, I was quickly humbled to discover that my first RC boat, the SV27, leaks like a sieve "out of the box." There is very little discussion of water leaks on the forum.

My first boat has become my experimental boat. After each modification, I get less water each time, but it's still a pain to get water on the battery packs and the motor after every run, especially saltwater! The underlying problem for the water leak is that the drive line is LOWER than the water line. Can't do anything about that unless you're prepared to make a whole new drive line, raise the engine and of course center of gravity!

Other problems I found: (1) Poor turning radius, (2) Wrong trim angle, (3) Stuffing box 1/16 inch from flex Coupler, (4) Very short teflon liner, (5) No water sealing of running hardware, (6) Water Jacket leaks.

Modifications to address leaks:
1. Remove all transom mounted hardware and place 3M Marine Adhesive Fast
Cure 5200 on all surfaces contacting the transom, and water exit fitting
Sand hull with 400-grit
sandpaper first.
2. Seal entire inner transom with 30-minute Epoxy and also reinforce the Stuffing
Tube.
3. Seal all wooden parts with 30-minute Epoxy.
4. Cut Stuffing Tube to create 3/8" gap to Flex Coupler with Separating Disk.
5. Make new Stuffing Tube retainer out of 1/4" aircraft plywood and reset 1/2"
back with epoxy.
6. Replace very short stock Teflon Tubing with a longer single piece running from
strut bushing to extend 1/8" beyond the exit of Stuffing Tube.
7. Slide Silicone Fuel Tubing on Stuffing tube to cover 1/8" of Teflon Tubing before
entering Stuffing Tube.
8. Slide another piece of Silicone Tubing on Teflon Tubing to cover 1/8" Flex Cable
before Flex Coupler.
9. Saran wrap battery packs, or any exposed electronics on every run.
10. Replace Water Jacket with Feigao Water Cooling Jacket.

Modifications to address Poor Turning Radius:
1. Change position of push rod to outer limit of servo arm.
2. Rudder was offset to the left, even after adjusting steering trim on radio. Turn
threaded end of push rod to center rudder.


Setup: Stock - motor, ESC, Running Hardware, and radio.
14 cells (2) IB4200 7-cell NiMH
Octura X-642 (based on this forum, thanks guys!)
Trim Tabs: -1 to -2 degrees
Strut Angle: 0 degree

Performance: 36 - 40 mph. (The limit of stability for this boat.)

The boat handles and planes beautifully now. Newcomers - Don't expect instant gratification, it requires work to get it running right. It's definitely an intermediate level boat, IMHO. With all the mods, I still manage to get water inside. Honestly, I with all the time I put in the SV27, I wish I built one from scratch. I am not bitter, this boat was a good learning experience to gain the confidence to build a boat from scratch.

I'd be curious how others have handled water leak issues on the SV27, or any other Deep Vee with a drive line lower than the water line?....

[Rex R]

hmmm, I had to dial down the steering on mine...course I'm only trying to make 35' radius turns :). all of my boats sit with the drivelines below the waterline, and they stay dry(even the supe vee), relube the flex every 3-4 runs. I did have a prob with a leaky water jacket, a dab or 2 of aquarium cement fixed that.

[Fluid]

I'd be curious how others have handled water leak issues on the SV27....

The ones in the club have not leaked much at all. They have seemed to be reliable with few modifications at all. I am sorry that you have had such a hard time. I am impressed with the mod program you have listed, pretty good!




.

[ice329]

I have to stick up for the SV. There are threads everyplace telling you not run these boats out of the box. Aquacraft does a great job getting you the stuff you need for a great boat at a great price but you have to do stuff first. There is a thread here called bathtub test. There are many threads on RCU, did you read Grims first post? I had one water jacket leak and a quick move it around and make it straight stopped the leak. The drive tube is right were it should be? Move the motor connector a little if your was to close? The boat does leak until its siliconed, then it bone dry. Sounds like you had some issues with the turning... wow now I know you need help. EVERY one of the boats I ever ran or tested turns to much. There are settings on the controller..did you check it? Tuck the rudder under and leave the rod on the second servo hole, set the turn fin and you HAVE to tune down the controller because the boat will hook. So honestly I dont understand your comment on turning. I think there excellent boats. There reliability is excellent for a racing boat that comes jusr about RTR. My white boat never breaks... Grease the shaft, 2 drops of oil and she has not broke not once in many many many runs. Flipped couple dozen times, dropped once, ran into weeds, The boat is outstanding.

[whiplash]

Totally, its my favorite boat. low maintenance, rides nice if you stay just under the unstable speed, turns beautiful, sharp and wide, at correct C/G, it jumps the wake made by the rescue boat, so nice..........lands flat. I hit the highest part of the wake, just as it leaves the transome, wwhhaaaaap, right over the white wash. yup.......... its my favorite boat.
ever since I took the latch lock off, epoxied the hole, zero water in the hull. every run...................DRY !!! Heres some picks........

[SweetAccord]

Sorry no water leakes here. Other issues yes, but not hull related.

[Avanti]

I would recommend silicone not 5200 as you will want ease of maintenance for the future and 5200 is a bit closer to permanent than silicone